For seeds or clones 1/3 peat/compst/aeration and liming mix at 2tb per gal of that(i use 50/50 gypsum/osf)
If you're gonna veg and want a mix while your main mix is resting just cut cc's recipe by like 1/4 and let that sit for a couple days before using.
@MM, interesting that your mix(with srp added) is very similar to Yosemitesam's high brix mix he recommended me. Doing that versus coots mix and so far the plants seem to favor that one just a bit, hard to tell just yet tho.
Also anyone have any tips for starting a clone in 5 gallon pot. ive had bad luck starting clones in anything bigger than a 1 gallon in the past.
Coots mix is just exemplary. It is just a basic mix of compost or vermicompost at approximately 1/3 with 1/3 sphagnum peatmoss and 1/3 drainage material. This basic mix arose from me and from Cornell. However I prefer less drainage material myself going closer to 15%. There is zero reason to use any dolomite or oyster powder for reasons of offsetting the pH in peatmoss, however I like to use oyster shell and some rock powders for their calcium and mineral content.
Any way to this base Coot adds the following to each cubic foot of potting soil mix:
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup neem meal
1 cup crab meal
4 cups Basalt
He planted directly into this. Cooking was invented by others so far as I know.
My mix (previously included rock phosphate but I only use it now if I am rich because the price has sky rocketed);
39 to 40% vermicompost sometimes blended with topsoil or compost; 39 to 40% low grade Premier sphagnum peatmoss; 13% multi-colored pea gravel. Presently I use rock dust which I get for free and tested against heavy metals at around 1%, homemade biochar from fir/pine shavings at 6 to 8% and add to every 4.6 cubic feet (wheelbarrow) coarse oyster shell 3 cups, kelpmeal 2 cups, rock phosphate 2 cups (if used) and occasionally 1/2 cup of alfalfameal.