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About to use the coot mix

chappie

Member
Veteran
Serious worm envy going on here, Microbeman. That honestly excites me more than any of the flower pics.
 

LBOrganic

New member
For seeds or clones 1/3 peat/compst/aeration and liming mix at 2tb per gal of that(i use 50/50 gypsum/osf)

If you're gonna veg and want a mix while your main mix is resting just cut cc's recipe by like 1/4 and let that sit for a couple days before using.

@MM, interesting that your mix(with srp added) is very similar to Yosemitesam's high brix mix he recommended me. Doing that versus coots mix and so far the plants seem to favor that one just a bit, hard to tell just yet tho.

care to share this recipe?


Also anyone have any tips for starting a clone in 5 gallon pot. ive had bad luck starting clones in anything bigger than a 1 gallon in the past.
 

pseudostelariae

Active member
Also anyone have any tips for starting a clone in 5 gallon pot. ive had bad luck starting clones in anything bigger than a 1 gallon in the past.

do you need to start in a 5 gallon pot? the problem there is potential over watering. if you soak it too much, the roots might get soggy and never really colonize the whole pot. i find it's best to root your cuttings, put them in a solo cup for 10-14 days and then MAYBE go to a 5 gallon. probably better to start in a 1 gallon and pot up once it's established but come to think of it, the local greenhouse supply guy was recommending i transplant from cups right into my finishing pots. not sure what the advantage is but i suppose whatever works.
 

surfguitar

Member
I've had no problem transplanting clones into my bigger beds, just water accordingly and you should be fine. Just transplanted from clone to 10gal no problem and about a week later and plants are growing like crazy,
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Veggie growers go from maybe a 72 tray to raised beds when a tomato plant is 4 inches tall or so. If they can figure that out 5 gallon pots really should not be a big challenge.

The advantage is the structure of the plant turns out much better.
 

Seneca_

Member
Coots mix is just exemplary. It is just a basic mix of compost or vermicompost at approximately 1/3 with 1/3 sphagnum peatmoss and 1/3 drainage material. This basic mix arose from me and from Cornell. However I prefer less drainage material myself going closer to 15%. There is zero reason to use any dolomite or oyster powder for reasons of offsetting the pH in peatmoss, however I like to use oyster shell and some rock powders for their calcium and mineral content.
Any way to this base Coot adds the following to each cubic foot of potting soil mix:
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup neem meal
1 cup crab meal
4 cups Basalt

He planted directly into this. Cooking was invented by others so far as I know.


My mix (previously included rock phosphate but I only use it now if I am rich because the price has sky rocketed);
39 to 40% vermicompost sometimes blended with topsoil or compost; 39 to 40% low grade Premier sphagnum peatmoss; 13% multi-colored pea gravel. Presently I use rock dust which I get for free and tested against heavy metals at around 1%, homemade biochar from fir/pine shavings at 6 to 8% and add to every 4.6 cubic feet (wheelbarrow) coarse oyster shell 3 cups, kelpmeal 2 cups, rock phosphate 2 cups (if used) and occasionally 1/2 cup of alfalfameal.


I prefer your take on the amount of aeration. Using the full 30% I find it hard to keep moisture in my 15s after the roots have filled out.
 

Buddah Watcha

Well-known member
Veteran
I had great success with the coots mix, just finished a run with it... a bit modified since I couldn't get crab meal, i used multi purp organic fertilizer as a replacement!
 

Seneca_

Member
I use the Cornell University mix modified in my own way. I am using all the meals including FBM.

I have great success with it. With my mix I did use a few cuft of COM Lobster compost which I really like.
 

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