Need help, have pics of leaves.

[elvig]

Took a few pics of the damage. Here's a rundown of the setup:

Plants: Rooted clones in rockwool cubes placed 1-2" above water level of ebb&flow bucket system with Hydrocorn. Have been in veg for 3 weeks.
Flooded: 4 times a day, 6 hours apart, 15 minutes per flood.
Lights: 400w MH, 4' distance
Cycle: 24hours/day
Temp: 72 F
CO2: 1000-1200ppm
Strains: Chemdog D (ok health), Headband (bad health), Deep Sleep (worst health)
Shared Reservoir: 5.5-6.0pH
Temp - 68 F
Changed out weekly
RO Water - 40ppm (.5 EC)
CaliMagic - 200ppm (.5 EC)
MaxiBloom - 150ppm (.5 EC)
Roots Excelurator - 1ml/gal
DutchMaster Zone - 1ml/gal
Monterrey Insect Control II(1.47% Imid) - 5ml/gal
Foliar sprayed Spinosad and MightyWash 3 times and bombed room twice the first week

Here are the pictures:

 

[elvig]

 

[northerngrafta]

Did u sulphur bomb the room with the plants in???

 

[northerngrafta]

When did problems start to show recently or has it been a bad run from the start

 

[elvig]

Pyrethrum TR bug bomb with plants in room. The Chemdogs are better after a 3 day flush, the headband about the same, and the deep sleep worse.

 

[Skunkxx]

Looks like light burn or N burn if not light,unless the bomb is doing it.
How big are the plants,give us a pic of the whole plant.
Good Luck
Peace Out
Skunkxx

 

[elvig]

Plants were started as rooted clones and top fed for a week. They are now in the 3rd week and 10-14" in height.

Chemdawg D

Deep Sleep

Headband

 

[c2288]

Maybe nute sensitive. That's a lot of chemicals for veg. (IMHO) Are you using 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended dosage and what is your feed cycle? Feed- flush-flush or feed every change or ???-? I would flush with a low EC veg nute. MaxiBloom is a flowering nute low in nitrogen.

BTW Are you mixing all of those and feeding at the same time and what is the total EC on a .5 or .7 scale? I would flush and see if they recover. I don't think the different strains can handle the same dosage.
Good luck,
C

 

[northerngrafta]

If that bug bomb is anything like the ones I use you aren't supposed to sulphur bomb with plants in the room it will have left a sulphur residue on the leaves that is currently causing your plants to look like they do...... You need to lower the ph of your leaf spray at least once a day the more the better and look towards the new growth for signs of the problem being resolved soon as you have healthy new growth you should remove the whole or just cut back the damaged part of the effected leaves

Foliar feeding is a great remedy for any nutrient deficiency

 

[Granger2]

Lay down 1" thick potato slices on top of the medium. Check daily for root aphids. They could be the cause. Pray it's not RA's. Good luck. -granger

 

[elvig]

Maybe nute sensitive. That's a lot of chemicals for veg. (IMHO) Are you using 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended dosage and what is your feed cycle? Feed- flush-flush or feed every change or ???-? I would flush with a low EC veg nute. MaxiBloom is a flowering nute low in nitrogen.

BTW Are you mixing all of those and feeding at the same time and what is the total EC on a .5 or .7 scale? I would flush and see if they recover. I don't think the different strains can handle the same dosage.
Good luck,
C

Total PPM is 360ppm at .5 EC. Flooded 15 minutes, four times per day. Reservoir changed out weekly.

If that bug bomb is anything like the ones I use you aren't supposed to sulphur bomb with plants in the room it will have left a sulphur residue on the leaves that is currently causing your plants to look like they do...... You need to lower the ph of your leaf spray at least once a day the more the better and look towards the new growth for signs of the problem being resolved soon as you have healthy new growth you should remove the whole or just cut back the damaged part of the effected leaves

Foliar feeding is a great remedy for any nutrient deficiency

I’ve haven’t foliar fed them. Are you saying to wash the leaves with a low pH nutrient solution?

Lay down 1" thick potato slices on top of the medium. Check daily for root aphids. They could be the cause. Pray it's not RA's. Good luck. -granger

I will try this. So I'm guessing I should check the slice daily for insects?

 

[northerngrafta]

The concept of a sulphur burner is to raise the ph on the surface of the leaf to make it inhospitable to insects and diseases

You burnt sulphur in your room, so you will have sulphur that isn't even vaporised on the surface of your leaf you need to foliar feed to wash away this and also to help nurse your plant back to health. A product like rhizotonic or other commonly used foliar feeds often carry a high ph due to the nature of the products

So before you go ahead and use one as a foliar feed be sure to lower the ph of the solution after uve mixed it.

I personally can't see potato skins solving your problems but I never say never in this game till I've tried it....
Best Of Luck

 

[Kcar]

What bugs are you trying to kill? I don't see any evidence of bugs.
You didn't use a sulfur burner, right?
PPM's and EC are measurements of the same thing. PPM's can be on a .5 or .7 scale.
EC is just EC. 1000 ppm on a .5 scale is 2EC. 1400ppm on a .7 scale is 2EC.

 

[Midnight Tokar]

.....I personally can't see potato skins solving your problems but I never say never in this game till I've tried it....
Best Of Luck

The potato slice response was not for solving the problem, what it does is provide evidence of a Root Aphid problem. The RA is drawn to the potato for food and congregate there, much easier to see them than pulling the plant and going through the "soil"

 

[elvig]

What bugs are you trying to kill? I don't see any evidence of bugs.
You didn't use a sulfur burner, right?
PPM's and EC are measurements of the same thing. PPM's can be on a .5 or .7 scale.
EC is just EC. 1000 ppm on a .5 scale is 2EC. 1400ppm on a .7 scale is 2EC.

Only thing I've used is Pyrethrum TR bug bomb, no sulfur. My EC is 0.7 (360ppm using a .5 conversion)

 

[northerngrafta]

Sorry pal assumed by bug bomb u ment a sulphur bomb still run the foliar feed advice just ph to 7 instead

 

[Granger2]

Thanks Tokar for the explanation. If it is RA's, no amount of any kind of bombing will have much of an effect on them. -granger

 

[Granger2]

Thanks Tokar for the explanation. The potato slices [not peels] are a way to monitor. If it's RA's, no amount of bombing will get to them in the medium. -granger

 

[elvig]

Thanks Tokar for the explanation. The potato slices [not peels] are a way to monitor. If it's RA's, no amount of bombing will get to them in the medium. -granger

I run 5ml/gal of 1.47% Imidacloprid to prevent root aphids.

 

[Midnight Tokar]

I run 5ml/gal of 1.47% Imidacloprid to prevent root aphids.

Whoa, explain that. You run it how often? Imid is not meant to be run as a preventative as it's half-life is not well known and remains in the plant for at least 60 days. There is no way I would ever use Imid as a preventative without knowing I have RA's and then as a last resort only.
After getting root aphids in a bag of compost I got from the nursery it took me 2 cycles and a complete change and sterilization of everything to get them under control.
I use crab meal, diatomaceous earth, and neem seed meal as a preventative in soil...........so far it has worked. I don't know about hydro.