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Is there a point of diminishing returns on curing jar size?

b8man

Well-known member
Veteran
As long as you keep the humidity at 62% then it shouldn't really matter. Saying that, I tend to keep it in different jars just in case one of them starts showing spores - ya know, all your eggs in one basket. And if you use those humidity control desiccant packs there are probably some size restrictions.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
As long as you keep the humidity at 62% then it shouldn't really matter. Saying that, I tend to keep it in different jars just in case one of them starts showing spores - ya know, all your eggs in one basket. And if you use those humidity control desiccant packs there are probably some size restrictions.

I haven't experienced mold in material stabilized at 62% RH. Those dangers seem gone at 62%, and are apparently greatly diminished below 70%.

I use the large Boveda packs. In 1 or 2 liter wire bale jars, the humidity recovers relatively fast if I've opened a jar. It recovers more slowly with more air space or in larger jars.

I like 'em. Without them, the humidity goes down every time the jar is opened & resealed. Left in peace, 62% material seems decently cured at ~30 days in the jars & maybe best at 3-4 months. That's when it really seems to come together- texture, taste, aroma & effect. I have some that's cured for 9 months, and the only thing it's lost is some of the aroma.
 

Holyherb420

Member
Thanks for the advice guys. I ordered a few caliber iv's and I'm going to order some bovedas. Hopefully I can get this curing thing down.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the advice guys. I ordered a few caliber iv's and I'm going to order some bovedas. Hopefully I can get this curing thing down.

Several members use the Boveda packs in conjunction w/ Simon's method-

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=156237

The real issue is drying the material sufficiently to avoid mold while retaining enough moisture to facilitate curing. If the moisture level ever drops too low, the cure is over. Here in Denver, indoor winter humidity can be very low, so I have to really pay attention to avoid over drying. That magic 60-65% RH in the jar goes by really quick if I'm not diligent.
 

Holyherb420

Member
Thanks for the info. So I should pay close attention to that sweet spot. Is there a page on the link I should pay closer attention to? There's a lot of pages to go through there lol.
 

watts

ohms
Veteran
It's not just Colorado that has dry indoor winter air. The humidity isn't even registering on my hygrometer and I live in a humid area. Must be the indoor heat. I use a humidifier set to 60% for drying.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for the info. So I should pay close attention to that sweet spot. Is there a page on the link I should pay closer attention to? There's a lot of pages to go through there lol.

The most important part is understanding Simon's opening post. The hygrometers just quantify what some people could do intuitively, and the boveda packs just keep the sealed jar RH in the cure zone.

Over drying kills the curing process, but leaving the material too wet for too long promotes mold. If you're doing some back & forth, in & out of the jars to bring down the moisture content then you're paying attention and you'll get good results. I know it's probably a little too wet when I first quit drying & put it in jars, but that keeps me on the good side of Denver's very low indoor winter humidity levels. Around here, over drying is more likely than mold. It takes 24-48 hours for everything to equalize in a sealed jar to get a truly accurate RH reading. It tends to creep up as moisture deep in the buds comes out. When a steady reading in the 60-65% range is obtained, the material is curing. That's the time to add a Boveda pack, let it rest for at least a couple of weeks.

It's a good method for modest personal grower sized harvests. It's adaptable, to a point. We don't have a good place to hang whole plants, so whole plants are processed into buds, loosely put in fine mesh bags to dry-

http://www.containerstore.com/shop?productId=10031095&N=&Ntt=mesh+bag

Then the bags go on a drying rack in a cool dark place.

With each successive harvest, I get a better feel for it, fuss with it less. Expect to fuss with it more than you might like the first couple of times around. It's worth the effort.

I like Watts' idea of using a humidifier. That would put a floor under the RH, reduce chances of over drying.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I use a bedroom with a dehumidifier set at 70% and a humidifier set at 60%, occilating fan. I can turn on a 6" Elicient fan exhausting into attic thru Carbon filter. I need a very small [6000 BTU] window AC.
I hang buds on hangers in closet till ready to remove from stems and jar them. If needed, lids stay off jars for a day or 2. Then, lids on, burping routine. Good luck. -granger
 
I use the largest jar I have that my buds can completely fill. I've got a stash of half gallon, quarts, and pints. All work fine.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
I like to cure in bigger jars. These 4 Gallon Ball Jars can hold 2 pounds of medium density bud:
picture.php
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
The Jars were made by Ball and are called Ball Ideal. They used to come in 2 Gallon and 4 Gallon sizes but they don't make them anymore. I bought a bunch of them before they stopped making them. You can find them at yard sales all over the country. The 2 Gallon ones hold 1 pound of normal medium dense indoor or 2 pounds of super dense and the 4 Gallon holds 2 pounds of normal indoor and 4 pounds of super dense.
picture.php
 
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