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- Users Thread - Hydrosol/Jacks Pro Hydro (and other copies) & Calcium Nitrate

jakeh

Active member
Dizzlekush,
I've enjoyed the thread but wanted to let anyone wanting JR Peters know the storm has caused a little havoc. I'm a week between email responses but they are great to deal with were it not for a major storm that messed up their business temporarily. They will put you in contact with their experts on water and how to deal with ph once you do the water analysis which really is step #1. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
 

dizzlekush

Member
Here's an example of one of my 'hotter' feeds. Its currently falling pretty close to Spurrs formulas. Plants are @ day ~30 of bloom, in 3 gallon pots of Sunshine mix #4. i fertigate every 4-6 days.

I start off in bloom at 25ppm P and keep it there for ~14 days to mitigate the early bloom stretch. I usually increase my P by 5-10ppm every fertigation after that. My Mg and S are so high since i was using Magnesium Nitrate and Ammonium Sulfate to increase my N, my water has ~11ppm of each Mg and S (also 29ppm Ca), and i cant remove any magnesium sulfate since its from the Jacks Pro Hydro. I now like the Peters Hydrosol more than the Jacks product due to the fact that the Peters Hydrosol has less MgSO4, giving me more wiggle room with my formulas.

I've come to doubt that cannabis requires a significant amount of Si to achieve all the benefits from it. I personally have found lower applications of Si to be just as effective as higher application in increasing disease & pest resistance and preventing osmotic stresses from excessive salinity & transpiration, and im fairly sure the plants could benefit from lessening the amount of alkalinity they have to deal with from the Si applications. Im currently using ~30ppm of Si, and that's probably the highest i well ever go in Si from now on.
 

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TheArchitect

Member
Veteran
Sticky status,

Been using jacks for a minute.

I'm working on a resivior add back recepie for flower to reduce the necessity of res swaps.

So far, pottasium nitrate, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate. I mix by ec and was adding .3 ec pottasium, .1 calcium, .1 magnesium. I had good results, I didn't swap once in flower just added back water or the add back mix, usually water-water-add back . Three times I added back the base mix to raise the ec up to target do to plants eating so much.
 
That is good to hear... been using Jacks for about a year now in dwc and won't ever go back to anything else. I've been testing Jacks with EWCtea for about two weeks now. No results to report on.

dizzlekush, do you have any experience with compost tea and Jacks Pro?
 

dizzlekush

Member
That is good to hear... been using Jacks for about a year now in dwc and won't ever go back to anything else. I've been testing Jacks with EWCtea for about two weeks now. No results to report on.

dizzlekush, do you have any experience with compost tea and Jacks Pro?
Sorry about the delayed response. Didn't notice this message.

Yes I use compost teas with Jacks Pro. I own one of MicrobeMan's 12 gallon bioreactors as well as one of his monocular microscopes. I've personally noticed positive results, but I have doubts of its benefits in DWC or any other hydroponic setup for that matter. Kinda impossible to establish a 'soil-food web' without any soil or soil-less substrate (e.g. peat or coir). Only real benefits I could see is competing with pathogens, but a little chlorine, bleach or H2O2 will probably have better effects in that regard. Would still be useful as a foliar spray to prevent mold/mildews though.

Compost tea is unique in that when it comes to 'beneficial' additives, compost tea is the easiest to become detrimental to the plants. All it take is too much food, not enough oxygen or circulation, poor compost or feedstock choices and you have yourself a harmful product that you're wasting your time and money on.

My honest opinion formed out of my personal experiences is that if you're planning on brewing more than ~3 gallons of tea for about 18 hours, you need a professional grade compost tea brewer, either a bubble blower setup (e.g. Keep It Simple brewers) or a bottom fed airlift (e.g. MicrobeMans bioreactor). The airlifts are my personal choice since they usually provide greater dissolved oxygen levels and mix the solution better to prevent anaerobic pockets from forming. You can make either yourself with some extra time and a little know-how, or just buy one. Coming from someone who thinks just about everything related to growing weed is overpriced (why I use Jacks), a good compost tea brewer is well worth the investment.
 

maximum

New member
Yea dudes, Im loving the Jacks 5-12-26 plus calnite. I personally run both until 15 days before harvest, then cut the calnite.

However, on certain varieties I notice that my leaves just puff up like overly fat and almost wavy. Dark green, slow bud initiation, small bud formation. Is this due to the higher nitrogen or just too high ppm's for those varieties of cannabis?
 

whereyeaat

New member
So basically I have been wondering about whether to use a dif nute in promix as opposed to a straight water hydro like flood and drain. I emailed JR Peters and asked there recomendation, this is the response I got:

Thanks your interest in our products. I am going to answer your questions, but my disclaimer is we don’t formulate or trial our fertilizers for or on medical marijuana. I have included two different fert recommendations. The first is for you Promix bags. The second is for a true hydro setup. I would recommend the 17-4-17 as your grower, it is designed for growing in RO or very pure water. You may need to have some Cal-trate or Cal Nitrate on hand, also as your crop tends to be pretty calcium hungry. If you tell me a little more about how you water/ feed I can give you exact amounts. Please email me or give me a call.

Veg: 200 ppm of Nitrogen 17-4-17
Blooming (First week): 300ppm of Nitrogen of 10-30-20 + extra Epsom ( 4oz/ 100 gallons)
(2nd week) back to vegetative
Alternate between 2 formulations till the end of the growing cycle.



Hydroponic

Veg: 150 ppm of Nitrogen 5-12-26 +Cal Nitrate.
Bloom: Blooming (First week): 300ppm of Nitrogen of 10-30-20 + extra Epsom ( 4oz/ 100 gallons)
(2nd week) back to 150 ppm of vegetative formula
Alternate between 2 formulations till the end of the growing cycle.



After and another email and phone call I am still unsure. With the 17-4-17 the tech on the phone told me I would have an NPK of 150-15.45-124.5 and cal-mag of 26.4-13.2. Seems a little off to me but she assured me it would work very well especially with RO as that particular blend is meant for RO. I asked why she recommends 300 ppm of N for flower and she said that was just so the PK would be High as well, and to use it every 3rd feeding and my true N value in the media and plants would even out.

Iv never been too fussy with ferts, I was on the Lucas forever in ebb and flow and rock wool but for various reason will be switching to 5gal smarties of promix. Jacks is just so cheap and comes highly recommended.

Does anyone have any person experience or can someone with more knowledge on the subject then me perhaps enlighten me a little bit?

here are the links to the various ferts; (maybe someone can work out the NKPCaMg and so on of them for me as I have no idea how haha)

17-4-17 http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jac...-Water-LX.html

5-26-26 http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jac...ydroponic.html

10-30-20 (bloom booster) http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jac...m-Booster.html

Im curious to hear peoples thoughts on if the 17-417 has enough P,Ca,Mg and other micros. Its supposed to be an all in one and 1 bag is cheaper then 2 obviously!
 

Fresh Start

Active member
mixing stock solutions

mixing stock solutions

The other day while mixing a stock I noticed that the bottom of the plastic container I was mixing into had become warm and almost hot to the touch. Is this normal? What reaction would cause this? Here are some details.

-I was mixing 5280 grams of 5-12-26 into a 6 gallon container. The salt had gathered at the bottom and it was warm.

-The container was recycled and thoroughly rinsed with filtered water before using until 0ppm was recorded as coming out. It was previously a Cutting Edge Solutions bloom nutrient container.

I hope this is normal and I can still use my nutes
 
Last edited:

Medium Pimpin'

Ask Beavis, I Get Nothing Butt Head
Veteran
The other day while mixing a stock I noticed that the bottom of the plastic container I was mixing into had become warm and almost hot to the touch. Is this normal? What reaction would cause this? Here are some details.

-I was mixing 5280 grams of 5-12-26 into a 6 gallon container. The salt had gathered at the bottom and it was warm.

-The container was recycled and thoroughly rinsed with filtered water before using until 0ppm was recorded as coming out. It was previously a Cutting Edge Solutions bloom nutrient container.

I hope this is normal and I can still use my nutes
this happens to me only w/ the hydro solution, never calNit.
once the particles dissipate, it cools off.
i'm surprised nobody else has mentioned this.
i only mix stock solutions in a quart jug and it gets warmer for sure.
no ill effects for me.
 

Fresh Start

Active member
Thank You pimpin for chiming in on this.
My brother mixes his hydro solution in distilled water jugs and his gets warm as well. So I knew it was not from having some kind of lingering salt from my recycled CES bottle react in a negative way with the Jacks Hydro- that was my initial worry.

I was reading on the JR peters website that most dry fertilizer salts dissolve in an endothermic reaction meaning that they absorb heat from the surrounding environment. I wonder if there is so much salt being dissolved that the mixture can absorb so much heat that it feels like 100+ degrees?

My solution cools down when the salts are all dissolved as well. And for the record, my plants are still in great health from using this mixture.
 

Fresh Start

Active member
I just wanted to throw in my experience with JPH just incase it helps anyone out. My water is naturally soft and I still carbon filter it.

I use JPH with pure coco and I've been seeing intervienal chlorosis and small rust spots on some of my plants, especially Girl Scout Cookies and/or Headband and it has been driving me crazy. It was happening in my nursery under t5's with a ppm concentration of about 400. It was also exacerbated by not watering them enough. So I cranked up the ppm a bit to 600 and watered more frequently and that seemed to stop the symptoms while giving better growth rates.

I then transplanted into much bigger pots (15 gal from 2 gal) and started them on HID lighting. This is where the symptoms flared up again and I was even considering retreating back to my usual bottled fertilizer of CES. But after studying it for a while I was convinced that what I was seeing was a cal/mag deficiency in my plants. So I whipped out the old Botanicare cal/mag and foliar sprayed them for a couple days to see what happens. Well, they bounced back vigorously! Its been almost a week since the symptoms have been gone and I am seeing very great growth rates overall.

Some thoughts about JPH in pure coco
-Ph swings in pure coco (I believe) will cause slight/moderate leaf twisting
-Good to thoroughly soak the coco with much runoff the first watering. This will balance the CEC sites and hopefully you won't run into cal/mag issues.
-Foliar spray calcium supplement is a good thing to do in transplant/overall.
 

vertigo0007

Member
I just wanted to throw in my experience with JPH just incase it helps anyone out. My water is naturally soft and I still carbon filter it.

I use JPH with pure coco and I've been seeing intervienal chlorosis and small rust spots on some of my plants, especially Girl Scout Cookies and/or Headband and it has been driving me crazy. It was happening in my nursery under t5's with a ppm concentration of about 400. It was also exacerbated by not watering them enough. So I cranked up the ppm a bit to 600 and watered more frequently and that seemed to stop the symptoms while giving better growth rates.

I then transplanted into much bigger pots (15 gal from 2 gal) and started them on HID lighting. This is where the symptoms flared up again and I was even considering retreating back to my usual bottled fertilizer of CES. But after studying it for a while I was convinced that what I was seeing was a cal/mag deficiency in my plants. So I whipped out the old Botanicare cal/mag and foliar sprayed them for a couple days to see what happens. Well, they bounced back vigorously! Its been almost a week since the symptoms have been gone and I am seeing very great growth rates overall.

Some thoughts about JPH in pure coco
-Ph swings in pure coco (I believe) will cause slight/moderate leaf twisting
-Good to thoroughly soak the coco with much runoff the first watering. This will balance the CEC sites and hopefully you won't run into cal/mag issues.
-Foliar spray calcium supplement is a good thing to do in transplant/overall.

was getting the rust spots on a dpbb until adding .25 g per gal of Epsom salt. all good now. so using 2.25 gpg of 5-12-26, 1.5 gpg of calcinit, .05 gpg of MoST and .25 gpg of Epsom salt. approx. 650-750 ppm final solution.
 

DeceiverZ

Member
Veteran
Old thread I know but anyone Foliar with Jacks or Cal Nitrate?

Old thread I know but anyone Foliar with Jacks or Cal Nitrate?

I was being overly careful keeping the ppms low this round. Finding out there's a Nitrogen deficiency now.

Does anybody foliar with the Cal Nitrate to fix Nitrogen deficiencies? If so, any advice on what PPM and if it should be combined with a surfactant (Yucca Powder, Protetk, Polysorbate 20) ???

Appreciate all the help guys.
 
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