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Optimizing Coco, for hydro grower.

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
I have read ton's of conflicting info on coco, and would like some expert advice. I am growing autoflowers, and have been experimenting with various hydro methods for 2 years, which are all a lot of work. Using cheap coco from e-bay, PH adjust, using GH flora series performance pak fertilizers.

First question is should coir seedlings be fed from day one? If so how many PPM? Have seen contradicting statements on this on another site.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Another thing I have seen contradicting statements on is, whether to flush every 3rd feeding.

I have been lazy, and have cramped conditions, so do not test run-off.
 

bushed

Active member
Hey loc dog

Personally I feed straight away at the recommended dose for the nutes I use, a lot of root stimulator and a weak feed. Ive tried just plain water and things moved a lot slower.

I believe using plain water every third day is excessive. I give my plants a good soaking of plain water roughly every 3 weeks and haven't had any issues with lock outs from salt build up.

The best advice I can give though is to dive in a try different things and see what works for you. For example the composition of some nute's may be different to mine and need flushing more often.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Hey loc dog

Personally I feed straight away at the recommended dose for the nutes I use, a lot of root stimulator and a weak feed. Ive tried just plain water and things moved a lot slower.

I believe using plain water every third day is excessive. I give my plants a good soaking of plain water roughly every 3 weeks and haven't had any issues with lock outs from salt build up.

The best advice I can give though is to dive in a try different things and see what works for you. For example the composition of some nute's may be different to mine and need flushing more often.

Thanks for the reply!!!

I use General Hydroponics Flora Series.

Makes sense to feed from start, since coco is so inert.

Had very good success starting off plants in 3.5 inch net pots, with hydroton, using aeroponic, which created incredible roots. Then moved to coir pots. Only problem was the center (net pot) dried out way quicker then the coir.
 

mg75

Member
not all coco is inert out of the bag and should be tested with a ppm meter (even a cheap one). some bands have a very high salt content.
take some dry coco from a new bag and wet it with distilled/RO water. let it sit for about 10 min and then take a fistful and squeeze over a shot glass. measure your ppms...
i flush before i transplant and feed from day one. if you need to flush with plain water during the grow, you may be feeding too much or are having other issues.
although tedious, measuring your runoff ph and ppms is essential until you dial everything in.
 

Garyoutlaw

New member
I use GH FloraNova series with the addition of CalMag.
My seeds or freshly rooted clones get planted directly into B'cuzz brand coco /pearlite & fed from day 1 at half strength.

This is the only time I cut the recommended feed schedule provided by GH unless the strain shows otherwise

That being said ..With more successful grows I become keenly aware of when individual plants may need more/less feed and I don't make those mistakes as before..


 

Snow Crash

Active member
Veteran
I start with a seedling tray and make sure the coco is totally clean ahead of time. Just a little rinsing because it's not like it's that much coco in the little 1x1 squares. I find that at this stage, especially in higher humidity environments (domes) that the coco does not dry out very fast. The young tap root has what it needs during those first few days so I don't include "food" until the second watering after it has broken ground. My first watering is typically tap water (some hardness) with maybe a root zone support supplement like Kelp extract, Rapid Start, Roots Excellurator, etc.

At the second watering when I feed for the first time I will aim for a 0.6ec to 0.8ec. It is ususally about 3 days between waterings/feedings early on and I transplant the small root ball from the tray around the 10-14 day mark depending on their vigor. I maintain a >1.0ec feeding until the plant has several leaf sets (4-5) and is decently rooted in it's home.

Full on flushing can be problematic as some elements rinse more readily than others. Instead, maintain your nutrient ratio, just use a "Watered down" nutrient solution at a lower strength. This will help keep your ratios balanced while removing whatever buildup you can. I'll do a rinse every so often, maybe 2-3 weeks depending on plant health really.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
not all coco is inert out of the bag and should be tested with a ppm meter (even a cheap one). some bands have a very high salt content.
take some dry coco from a new bag and wet it with distilled/RO water. let it sit for about 10 min and then take a fistful and squeeze over a shot glass. measure your ppms...
i flush before i transplant and feed from day one. if you need to flush with plain water during the grow, you may be feeding too much or are having other issues.
although tedious, measuring your runoff ph and ppms is essential until you dial everything in.

Will try that. I use cheap bricks off e-bay, that supposedly does not have salt buildup. On another site, they said to rinse often to prevent nutrient buildup.

Prefer to follow directions, and not good at reading plants.

Last run, only obvious problem was cal/mag deficiency.

Thanks!!
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
I use GH FloraNova series with the addition of CalMag.
My seeds or freshly rooted clones get planted directly into B'cuzz brand coco /pearlite & fed from day 1 at half strength.

This is the only time I cut the recommended feed schedule provided by GH unless the strain shows otherwise

That being said ..With more successful grows I become keenly aware of when individual plants may need more/less feed and I don't make those mistakes as before..

I had learned from a DWC expert, to check the PPM everyday (used with flood and drain also) If the PPM went up, too much nutrients, if it went down not enough. Too lazy (and cramped) to check each plant. Might try to create a central drain for run-off, to test.

Also, have been doing AF's exclusively, for awhile now, which are very picky, since they do not have time to recover, from any mistakes.

Thanks!!!
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
I start with a seedling tray and make sure the coco is totally clean ahead of time. Just a little rinsing because it's not like it's that much coco in the little 1x1 squares. I find that at this stage, especially in higher humidity environments (domes) that the coco does not dry out very fast. The young tap root has what it needs during those first few days so I don't include "food" until the second watering after it has broken ground. My first watering is typically tap water (some hardness) with maybe a root zone support supplement like Kelp extract, Rapid Start, Roots Excellurator, etc.

At the second watering when I feed for the first time I will aim for a 0.6ec to 0.8ec. It is ususally about 3 days between waterings/feedings early on and I transplant the small root ball from the tray around the 10-14 day mark depending on their vigor. I maintain a >1.0ec feeding until the plant has several leaf sets (4-5) and is decently rooted in it's home.

Full on flushing can be problematic as some elements rinse more readily than others. Instead, maintain your nutrient ratio, just use a "Watered down" nutrient solution at a lower strength. This will help keep your ratios balanced while removing whatever buildup you can. I'll do a rinse every so often, maybe 2-3 weeks depending on plant health really.

I used to love those growing trays with soil, when I grew photos, which were schwag seeds, so just threw a couple of seeds in each. Have had problems with AF seeds being over watered, stunting and dying.

Thanks!!
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
I have seedlings started in coir, and at one inch, 2 are bent over, to 45 degrees. What could cause that? Too much water, not enough, too dry (humidity), to close to HID? 73 degrees at top of plants.

Thanks!!
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Seedlings under HID is your problem. Why aren't you using T-5's or CFL's?

Have some older plants running under HID, so figured I would use the excess light. Raised it 6 inches, for 24 inch above seedlings. Moved smaller ones to edges. The rest are loving it. The benders were the last to sprout. Did not think 74 was too hot. Bulbs are 400 watt MH, in cooltube, but no fanning running through it.

Fortunately I made my own seeds, and am not losing 15 bucks a piece. They are Auto's, so if they do not pick up in a day, will cull them.

Really want to start rockwool, then hydroton in 3.5 inch netpots, in aeroponic system, till 6 inch tall, then coir. Aeroponic creates amazing roots on young plants.

Thanks!!!
 

5th

Active member
Veteran
Only reason I piped up in the first place is because I made my own auto seeds and kinda did the same thing. (Awesome germ rate on the homemade ones too...better then the breeders lol)

It wasn't really the temps that fucked the lil' tester group I did. So I figured it was the intensity of light on the lil' guys as the ones under floro's (T-8's) started fine.

picture.php



Gonna make a thread in the AF section Loc? Would like ta watch.
 
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