Man o Man am I happy to find this post. New grower here and my room has 10 Gavita Pro 1000s and my plants have looked more yellow and not as healthy as my buddies who has the same clones I do but uses more traditional lights in Adjusta wings. He has to have his lights right at the top of the canopy but I too need to keep these light 3 feet or more above the top of the canopy. Also, I as well have started to add CalMag and my plants started to look better as well. I am in a 50-50 mix of Pearlite and Pro Mix and using GH nutes. A week away from my first harvest and I tell you this has been a very stressful experience. Nice to read about other peoples experience using the same lights. I believe they are very powerful but it is a shame there isnt more support from Gavita on the little things like this that are important to know. I am also vegging my next batch right now in a new 8x8 room I made with one 1000W MH light and I have to say that the clones seem to be doing better under that light for vegging than under the gavitas last time. I definately will raise the Gavitas up more when these girls get into the main room and continue to add CalMag and play with upping the nutes. Thank you so much for this post! I thought I was going crazy
Gavitas = nutrient deficiencies?
- Thread starter Budsworth
- Start date
Using a Gavita DE for over a year I never had this problem until now. I always vegged under HPS but this time I had two plants vegging under CFLs for a while then put them under a Gavita and regular HPS and immediately issues with droopy leaves and deficiencies. Previous plants under the same lights same nutes same everything were fine, but different genetics. I don't know if it's the CFL to HPS 'lumen shock' or if they were overwatered at the same time or if they're just weak genetics though...
Gardens Keeper
Member
Yeah good to hear other people with the same issues it at least makes the culprit a little more obvious. I really hope we can get this figured out.
Im using 3k watts total with 2k of Gavita. I have not had any issues since maintaining the 25-30" distance from canopy. When I first got mine I was at 15" I had some issues. with some tops getting crispy and some branches that look like the moisture was just sucked out of them. After I corrected the distance I have been fine.. These bulbs put out a lot of light. you may not get any Bleaching but to close they will damage your plants. I had to adjust my room environment to a different set point then it was before. I had to install larger intake and exhaust fans. I also got more wall fans to keep the air constantly moving. Im sure my turn over rate is high.
Good point on not all EC being equal.
how big is that room? clean build by the way.
Id like to see a pic of your girls with the leaves standing up.
tomaytoe tomahtoh?
I thought "da kine" was slang for "the kind"..
how big is that room? clean build by the way.
Id like to see a pic of your girls with the leaves standing up.
tomaytoe tomahtoh?
I thought "da kine" was slang for "the kind"..
Hi Guys! Well just finished up my first harvest and although my plants didn't look as good as my buddies, I ended up with more lbs than he did for the same # of plants. I am still new and hand trimmed the whole lot except anything smaller than my thum nail went through a mechanical trimmer. I had 37 Bubba Kush wich gave me 9.5 pounds. Should get anouther 1.5 out of the remaining 5 Rockstar/Hash plants that I harvested a week later. Experienced growers were very happy with the tightness of my buds. I think they all wanted to see how I made out as they all laughed at my lights and how high I had them from the top of my canopy. My video just before harvest is here.. http://youtu.be/-DNgAvU_F2o
Im still having great results lov them
I'm using gavita 600's. Best par per watt. In a sealed room. 1500co2. Mix my own recipe of nutes to be 100-200-200 w a 2.5:1 cal mag ratio. Coco airpots. In my experience. Gavita rocks, but the heavy feeding and increased transpiration rate can play havoc w old tried and true recipes. I must use a silica product. Must water every 24 hours at the least. Every 6, or 12 is best in heavy bloom. And around weeks 3-4. Where most rooms see a cal mag def. I have to really bump up. Even w no cal mag def, (if I noticed it right away) I'll get a manganese deficiency on the plants w the ideal lighting. ( middle ones not near walls). I just foliar to compensate, it's been a frustrating ride.
ogrerun
Member
Good point on not all EC being equal.
how big is that room? clean build by the way.
Id like to see a pic of your girls with the leaves standing up.
tomaytoe tomahtoh?
I thought "da kine" was slang for "the kind"..
Ive always heard "kind bud" ever since I can remenber
"Dakine" is a company that makes snowboard eqipment and leashes.....
On a side note... I am getting a gavita pro 1000 ballast with a ac/de reflector so I am glad I found this
anferneybra
Member
Indeed Gavita pushes plants hard, especially if you have good overlap of lights. I run 16 light gavita rooms. The overlap and uniform 1000 micromoles on the canopy makes 1+gram per watt attainable.
I ran COCO with some perlite, watering 2 times daily, easy at pie. Veg 1.6-1.8 EC transition 1.8-2.1 bloom 2.1-2.4, then flushed 2 weeks fresh water.
I then ran my pre amended organic soil in the rooms, and man did they get put into check. They ran out of gas like 3 weeks earlier than traditional HPS hortilux. I dialed up the recipe this round and they are killing it.
There is a pic here with 1 strain on the right with calcium deficiencies due to the soil not being ready for gavita power!
I top dressed accordingly and adjust my recipe for another run. I yielded just over 35lbs off 16 lights set on 1000 watts.
To say the lights themselves CAUSE these problems is false. To say that the ability of the lights to push plants to the limits is correct!
I ran COCO with some perlite, watering 2 times daily, easy at pie. Veg 1.6-1.8 EC transition 1.8-2.1 bloom 2.1-2.4, then flushed 2 weeks fresh water.
I then ran my pre amended organic soil in the rooms, and man did they get put into check. They ran out of gas like 3 weeks earlier than traditional HPS hortilux. I dialed up the recipe this round and they are killing it.
There is a pic here with 1 strain on the right with calcium deficiencies due to the soil not being ready for gavita power!
I top dressed accordingly and adjust my recipe for another run. I yielded just over 35lbs off 16 lights set on 1000 watts.
To say the lights themselves CAUSE these problems is false. To say that the ability of the lights to push plants to the limits is correct!
Attachments
Caravaggio
Member
I think this is exactly my issue with this first run with Gavitas. Getting droopy and yellowing leaves just ending day 10 and running an ec of 1.1.
Im gonna kick it up to 1.4 tomorrow and see how they turn around. The gavitas are crazy hot. What type of canopy are you guys typically covering with them? I am doing 4x6 at 600w currently down from 1000w which I think shocked the girls a bit.
Hi! Very encouraging to read your post! What spacing are you using with your lights? Asked Gavita for a recomended overlap/spacing but they never really got back to me with specifics. Also, what brand of Nutes do you use? Thank you very much for your time!
A whole lot of really valuable information in this thread. With the emergence of DE lighting, especially in the NorCal scene (but nationwide now with Sunlight carrying Gavita and DGS carrying ePapillon). SolisTek is back at the drawing board to build their own DE systems, and the new Ushio DE bubs (the "Pro" I think) is pushing a solid 5-7% more than the Philips/Gavita bulb has been in our own tests.
Considering that you can get a new DE fixture for around $500 ($450 if you buy in bulk and know the right people) these things really make a lot of sense versus the traditional setup of Digi+Magnum+HPS that are in more of the $350-$400 range. Especially when you consider the 15%+ efficiency and PAR boost they provide, and the longer life span of the bulbs. Bigger, more potent, buds is what I hear from everyone that has tried them. These things are a no-brainer but it seems Cannabis growers get very stuck in their ways and it hasn't been an easy sell to those guys looking at Trifecta packages...
So really, this is all very new and exciting stuff for the multi-light growers and the input that you guys have provided is great for others looking to make the transition a little smoother. The information regarding Calcium has been extremely interesting to me.
It makes sense, on paper, that the light source will influence nutrient requirements as the increased PAR increases metabolism. I would imagine that some elements are more useful for metabolism and photosynthesis than others and that's where the Calcium/Magnesium shortages really make sense to me.
Considering that you can get a new DE fixture for around $500 ($450 if you buy in bulk and know the right people) these things really make a lot of sense versus the traditional setup of Digi+Magnum+HPS that are in more of the $350-$400 range. Especially when you consider the 15%+ efficiency and PAR boost they provide, and the longer life span of the bulbs. Bigger, more potent, buds is what I hear from everyone that has tried them. These things are a no-brainer but it seems Cannabis growers get very stuck in their ways and it hasn't been an easy sell to those guys looking at Trifecta packages...
So really, this is all very new and exciting stuff for the multi-light growers and the input that you guys have provided is great for others looking to make the transition a little smoother. The information regarding Calcium has been extremely interesting to me.
It makes sense, on paper, that the light source will influence nutrient requirements as the increased PAR increases metabolism. I would imagine that some elements are more useful for metabolism and photosynthesis than others and that's where the Calcium/Magnesium shortages really make sense to me.
Good point on not all EC being equal.
how big is that room? clean build by the way.
Id like to see a pic of your girls with the leaves standing up.
tomaytoe tomahtoh?
I thought "da kine" was slang for "the kind"..
what people refer to as high-quality bud when they are too ignorant to understand that it's "kine, with an "e" and NOT "kind" with a "d".... "Kine" is the Hawaii pidgin English word.
Furthmore-- kine bud is not a specific strain of bud (i.e. Northern Lights, Afghani-Skunk, White Widow). It is a term for higher quality bud-- usually ones whose genetics (strains) are not known but is of higher potency than schwag.
Note: Highest quality buds (i.e. Northern Lights, Afghani, AK-47) tend to be cultivated by Marijuana Connoiseur's who pay attention to details-- like the genetics or "strain," of the bud...therefore they generally do not call their bud "kine" but instead refer to it by strain (i.e. Northern Lights). To simply call it "Kine" when the actual genetics, or breed, is known- would be undermining the true quality of the bud.
Much like the word Aloha, da kine has multiple definitions, meanings and uses. Mostly, it is used when trying to explain something when you can’t think of the words.
You can use it when you can’t think of a word—sort of like the English words “thingie” or “whatchamacallit.” (“I can’t find da kine.”)
yeah they really run the plants hard, especially with co2..
great post anfernaybra, do you mind if i ask what you chose to top dress with to help correct the def?
great post anfernaybra, do you mind if i ask what you chose to top dress with to help correct the def?
H3ead's coco real early yellowing leaves *please help*
H3ead's coco real early yellowing leaves *please help*
First time posting... looking for some advice.
Day 14 flower in sealed room (new room, 1st real grow) 6x Gavita pro600 14'x11.5'x8' space, ample co2 etc. Two strains from a friend, G.C. and Bubblegum. I believe the shorter ones to be BG. BG showing lots of yellowing leaves with spots and overall entire room clawing a bit. 6/9 lucas all through veg. no issues. added 1ml/gal calmag all through veg. and 1ml/gal nitro boost(HG) and stopped nitro about 1 week before flower. Week one flower discovered mites, only affecting one strain (G.C.), treated, can't find any more, sticking to pro-active pest management. Mites had no affect what so ever on BG strain, yellowing prior to pest discovery. Have tried increasing and reducing calmag(using 2-4ml/gal in flower) to no avail. Have been keeping coco moist, ph'ing 5.8 everytime. Additives are Big Swell (Aurora) 5ml/gal, Sweet (Botanicare) 8ml/gal, but yellowing prior to adding the additives, my friend with the experience says don't worry you'll dial it in, looking for additional opinions. Thanks Guys... Please see attached pic.
H3ead's coco real early yellowing leaves *please help*
First time posting... looking for some advice.
Day 14 flower in sealed room (new room, 1st real grow) 6x Gavita pro600 14'x11.5'x8' space, ample co2 etc. Two strains from a friend, G.C. and Bubblegum. I believe the shorter ones to be BG. BG showing lots of yellowing leaves with spots and overall entire room clawing a bit. 6/9 lucas all through veg. no issues. added 1ml/gal calmag all through veg. and 1ml/gal nitro boost(HG) and stopped nitro about 1 week before flower. Week one flower discovered mites, only affecting one strain (G.C.), treated, can't find any more, sticking to pro-active pest management. Mites had no affect what so ever on BG strain, yellowing prior to pest discovery. Have tried increasing and reducing calmag(using 2-4ml/gal in flower) to no avail. Have been keeping coco moist, ph'ing 5.8 everytime. Additives are Big Swell (Aurora) 5ml/gal, Sweet (Botanicare) 8ml/gal, but yellowing prior to adding the additives, my friend with the experience says don't worry you'll dial it in, looking for additional opinions. Thanks Guys... Please see attached pic.
Attachments
Need more info about the environment and what you used to deal with the mites.
Thanks for getting back to me Snow Crash
Environment is average 79-83F and 55-62% RH. First day I noticed the mites I turned all fans etc off the next a.m. a couple hours after the lights went off and hit them with pro control plus bomb, day two mighty wash, day four azamax foliar. All leaves look basically the same before and after the mite applications. Water is tap which is 100 tds, bubbled in 55 gal sealed tank before use, hand fed etc. Gavita's are up to the ceiling approx. 7+ feet and are 600's, too short for the 1000's I originally wanted. Using portable dehumidifier and have 3ton minisplit, 18k head in the room. Hope that is sufficient info., if not I will provide whatever you need.
Environment is average 79-83F and 55-62% RH. First day I noticed the mites I turned all fans etc off the next a.m. a couple hours after the lights went off and hit them with pro control plus bomb, day two mighty wash, day four azamax foliar. All leaves look basically the same before and after the mite applications. Water is tap which is 100 tds, bubbled in 55 gal sealed tank before use, hand fed etc. Gavita's are up to the ceiling approx. 7+ feet and are 600's, too short for the 1000's I originally wanted. Using portable dehumidifier and have 3ton minisplit, 18k head in the room. Hope that is sufficient info., if not I will provide whatever you need.
Thanks for the info, it didn't indicate anything particular to me. RH could be a touch higher, ideally in the 65% to 75% if you weren't fighting anything at that temperature. The additional transpiration stress probably isn't helping with the elevated photosynthetic activity from the CO2 supplementation. If you can do it, I'd try sitting in the 60's to help them out there.
The only think I can really think of is some kind of root zone issue. Those are big plants, maybe the planters are a touch on the small size. Are they plastic or fabric? If they are plastic then root circling, root death, and bad bacteria could be a contributing factor. Often times the sickness we see up top starts underground.
At this stage it may be too late to employ any kind of fix for a balled up root system. Live and learn. My suggestion would be to use a root support supplement for bloom, something enzymatic is probably the best bet.
Stick to your guns though. If the nutrients are good and the ratios are good then it's something in the setup or environment. I'd probably just ride this out and take notes.
The only think I can really think of is some kind of root zone issue. Those are big plants, maybe the planters are a touch on the small size. Are they plastic or fabric? If they are plastic then root circling, root death, and bad bacteria could be a contributing factor. Often times the sickness we see up top starts underground.
At this stage it may be too late to employ any kind of fix for a balled up root system. Live and learn. My suggestion would be to use a root support supplement for bloom, something enzymatic is probably the best bet.
Stick to your guns though. If the nutrients are good and the ratios are good then it's something in the setup or environment. I'd probably just ride this out and take notes.
