Terpenation at Terpene Station

[Gray Wolf]

When you say "blast it out the vapor port" do you mean transfer butane to another tank and use an air compressor or something to blast it out? Or will this work with butane still in the tank?

A short blast to atmosphere.

Butane can hold up to about 32ml/L water (temperature?), but it doesn't like to, so the water falls out and accumulates in the bottom of the tank just below the dip tube, eventually venting rusty water into your extraction if you let it get deep enough to reach the dip tube.

If you invert the tank and let the water settle out and pool at the bottom, when you oven the vapor valve, it will drain from the bottom and vent the water first, before blasting liquid butane.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Quite a few posts back there was discussion on how slowly to open the 2 and 4 valves for the final dump. How slowly is best to open these valves, do you do it by pressure and wait for a certain pressure orvac to keep opening them?
During floods should valve 2 be opened slowly as well?

The issue is that the column is under pressure, while the tank is under vacuum, so when you open the vent valve to equalize that pressure, the liquid stream will surge forward with gusto, blasting stuff inside the tank on all sides and the underside of the lid.

What I do, is watch the pressure gauge as I open the valve, and just equalize the pressure slowly, so as to not splash so much. Once the valve passes the critical opening point, it can be opened the rest of the way in one stroke.

When the pressure is equal, you can open the large dump valve slowly.

Again imagine that the lower valve dumps a column of liquid straight down, so do so gently as you pass the critical crack point on the large valve as well. No gauge to read there, but easy to develop a feel after cleaning a well blasted chamber a few times.

 

[JColtrane]

Yup GW ... it's all about touch!!!

 

[FatherEarth]

Indeed GW's method is the way for cleaner pots, alternatively it helps if you dont dump into a vacuum as mentioned. If just above 0 psi and with "the touch" its spatter free.


I have also become fond of using that vapor pressure in the column to pop open the collection pot. I have a recurring issue with having to pry the lid off the collection. Usually with a flathead screwdriver. Gouging the seal over and over isnt good and I go thru gaskets far too quickly because of it So popping it with allowing the psi to rise slowly with a hand holding the column other on the valve...and as its crests 2 psi the top will just pop right off if it does not pop by 3psi, stop. Anything over that is kinda scary, at least for me. Sometimes you can just hit the lid with the handle of the screwdriver and it pops loose without using anything else, but it does not always do the trick....

 

[nakadashi]

A short blast to atmosphere.

Butane can hold up to about 32ml/L water (temperature?), but it doesn't like to, so the water falls out and accumulates in the bottom of the tank just below the dip tube, eventually venting rusty water into your extraction if you let it get deep enough to reach the dip tube.

If you invert the tank and let the water settle out and pool at the bottom, when you oven the vapor valve, it will drain from the bottom and vent the water first, before blasting liquid butane.

Wow this is so clutch! I am definitely going to try this out today. Thanks for the pro tip.

Edit: Just tried this and very pleased to report absolutely no water came out Guess that dryer filter is doing its thing quite well.

 

[nakadashi]

Indeed GW's method is the way for cleaner pots, alternatively it helps if you dont dump into a vacuum as mentioned. If just above 0 psi and with "the touch" its spatter free.


I have also become fond of using that vapor pressure in the column to pop open the collection pot. I have a recurring issue with having to pry the lid off the collection. Usually with a flathead screwdriver. Gouging the seal over and over isnt good and I go thru gaskets far too quickly because of it So popping it with allowing the psi to rise slowly with a hand holding the column other on the valve...and as its crests 2 psi the top will just pop right off if it does not pop by 3psi, stop. Anything over that is kinda scary, at least for me. Sometimes you can just hit the lid with the handle of the screwdriver and it pops loose without using anything else, but it does not always do the trick....

I just let some atmosphere into the collection vessel and once it gets to zero I have my foot on the clamp on the bottom of the collection vessel while I pull the lid + entire apparatus off. Comes off every time with no issue and I have never had to replace any gaskets.

 

[FatherEarth]

Ive done that as well Nak, and the part thats not kosher is once it gives and you are pulling. In general I try not to put angled pressure on the joints like that. I really dont like grabbing it by the column to move either, HANDLES would be a wonderful addition for many reasons. The sticking gaskets I have experienced were possibly due to over tightening old gaskets that arent cleaned well and the shatter forms a bond and sets up before I attempt to open them.

 

[nakadashi]

Ive done that as well Nak, and the part thats not kosher is once it gives and you are pulling. In general I try not to put angled pressure on the joints like that. I really dont like grabbing it by the column to move either, HANDLES would be a wonderful addition for many reasons. The sticking gaskets I have experienced were possibly due to over tightening old gaskets that arent cleaned well and the shatter forms a bond and sets up before I attempt to open them.

I have been grabbing the port that goes into the injection line and using it as a handle as I lift the entire apparatus straight up...sounds like it may have a noob mistake. It feels so solid though!

My top gasket and triclamp flanges have never had any significant amount of oil on them, perhaps because I've always used 6x12" spool for collection..

 

[HighStateToke]

In my parlance, once it has a 10" lower end, is a Mk IV instead of a Mk III. A Mk V has a 12" lower end

I will post a parts list once I get it updated to reflect as built and to find the time to put a special a composite list, detailing the component parts.

As you can see, right now my only updated one calls out print numbers, that detail assemblies of parts not on the list.

Hey GW, did you ever get around to compiling a full MK IV parts list? I am about to take the plunge

 

[HG23]

You can figure all the parts out if you look closely at the pics GW has provided.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Hey GW, did you ever get around to compiling a full MK IV parts list? I am about to take the plunge

Sorry, I've been buried to my hocks busy, and falling further behind on non critical path items and some that are highly important, like the 100 plus comments I'm behind on my own SPR site.

On the behind list, is to update my Mk IV posts, so I haven't forgotten it.

Rather than take the time to make a special list containing all the component parts, here is a list of the prototype parts as I ordered them from China.

As noted by HG 23, the design is simple minded like its creator, so its easy to see by looking, what machining and welding has been done, especially if you look at the published designs of all the other Terpenators.

As far as the lid, the center tube is 2" and is half of a 24" sanitary spool. It extends 2" above the lid. The vent down tube is 3/8" and extends into the tank, the same distance as the center down tube. The pump port, is a 1 1/2" Triclamp ferrule.

My prototypes have shipped by air, so when I get them and assemble the next Mk IV, I will take more pictures.

 

[HighStateToke]

Thank you GW.

I have most of the parts on my list already, the only problem I am encountering is finding the smaller ball valves. Such as "1/4 FNPT 150 ANSI" 1/2, 3/8, ect.

Also GW, I notice that on that list you have 3x10" high-pressure tri clamps, I am assuming the third is an extra which you ordered?
As well as the 4" single hinge clamp, this seems to be an extra since 4" high pressure clamps are used. I only feel comfortable using high pressure clamps, unless its 1 1/2".
One more..would I run into any problems not using a concentric reducer below the column? As I would like to use a 1 1/2" ball valve>1 1/2"x6">to allow a 1 1/2"x24 column to still be used when desired.

And for everyone running a terp, are you able to use qualitative filter papers next to the mesh gasket?

Thanks a lot everyone...these questions have been in the back of my head for a while now. I Appreciate it so much

 

[nakadashi]

Thank you GW.

I have most of the parts on my list already, the only problem I am encountering is finding the smaller ball valves. Such as "1/4 FNPT 150 ANSI" 1/2, 3/8, ect.

Also GW, I notice that on that list you have 3x10" high-pressure tri clamps, I am assuming the third is an extra which you ordered?
As well as the 4" single hinge clamp, this seems to be an extra since 4" high pressure clamps are used. I only feel comfortable using high pressure clamps, unless its 1 1/2".
One more..would I run into any problems not using a concentric reducer below the column? As I would like to use a 1 1/2" ball valve>1 1/2"x6">to allow a 1 1/2"x24 column to still be used when desired.

And for everyone running a terp, are you able to use qualitative filter papers next to the mesh gasket?

Thanks a lot everyone...these questions have been in the back of my head for a while now. I Appreciate it so much

You can cut a perfectly sized filter paper and wedge it in the gasket.

 

[HighStateToke]

That is what I thought initially, but wouldn't butane follow the past of least resistance and go around? Unless its clamped between the gasket and spool..but I was thinking that may effect the seal.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Thank you GW.

I have most of the parts on my list already, the only problem I am encountering is finding the smaller ball valves. Such as "1/4 FNPT 150 ANSI" 1/2, 3/8, ect.

Also GW, I notice that on that list you have 3x10" high-pressure tri clamps, I am assuming the third is an extra which you ordered?
As well as the 4" single hinge clamp, this seems to be an extra since 4" high pressure clamps are used. I only feel comfortable using high pressure clamps, unless its 1 1/2".
One more..would I run into any problems not using a concentric reducer below the column? As I would like to use a 1 1/2" ball valve>1 1/2"x6">to allow a 1 1/2"x24 column to still be used when desired.

And for everyone running a terp, are you able to use qualitative filter papers next to the mesh gasket?

Thanks a lot everyone...these questions have been in the back of my head for a while now. I Appreciate it so much

Paramount Supply can provide the valves.

The third 10" clamp is the bottom clamp on the spare lower spool. It allows you to exchange the lower tank and keep running.

The single 4" hinged clamp is a loading aid. You clamp a blank end cap on the spool using it, and pack the column contents against it. You remove it when you install the column.

The concentric reducer is the butane injection tee. A straight spool with the same connections will work.

 

[hounddogg]

How do I connect my pump to an AI oven? Can I cut off an end of one of my 1/4 inch hoses or should I get a 3/8 inch hose? My pump has connectors for both.

 

[RegisPhilburn1]

^ get a 3/8 female SAE to 3/8 hose barb fitting to go on the pump, and then just connect up some reinforced 3/8 tubing with hose clamps.

 

[hounddogg]

Thanks Regis

 

[A6 Grower]

All this talk of big columns gets me excited!

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Are you going to post up the MK IVA diagrams you reference in your parts list soon?

Pulling the trigger on some of the more important parts for one tomorrow.