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purge temps... and technique clarification

keifsweat

Member
i have heard so many numbers for purging temps and techniques. so i want to clarify more

1 what temp do u purge at?
ex... 115
2 where are u taking this measurement?
ex ... sticking probe in oil...thermo in chamber...outside chamber temp..
3 what are u purging in?
ex... Pyrex chamber...mason jar...metal pot style... vac oven
4 what are u purging on?
ex....parchment...glass...silicone mat/bowl...metal...
5 what are you checking temps with and is this constant read?
ex.. thermometer...infrared temp gun...vac oven read...
6 is this temp constant or fluctuation? if flux what range?
ex...i heat it up and put it in chamber it kools reheat.....chamber heated...oven...glass dish purge with direct heat
7 what is the heat source?
ex...vac oven...back warmer... toaster oven...silicone heat pad...
water...
8 what is your end product,desired product, and is this method making a consistent product....
ex.... i tried this way for shatter got budder...wound up with sap...makes honeycomb every time... i do it this way and it makes shatter every time...
9 this is a long shot but do any of yall get ur oil tested?
10 vac style? and what pressure 29 -28 -25 -29.9 -29.5 what do u do?
ex... i let it muffin collapse muffin collapse 25..cosntant pull under 29.9.....whip vac whip vac keep it over 25....
11 Time how long do purge?
Ex for wax this long for shatter this long...

I feel this could be the start of a nice guide so we can all at least compare notes or be on the same page as someone..we all usally have acquired different equipment.. but the more thoroughly we state how we are doing it the easier it should be to refine...so lets make some consistent clean oil..
 
Last edited:

keifsweat

Member
1 i just try to keep it under 120 not able to precisely control temps yet
2 digital thermometer stuck in oil in chamber...now have infared have not used yet
3 glass pyrex pie dish with vacuum lid on it
4 sandwiched between 2 sheets of parchment
5 constant oil in chamber
6 my temps fluctuate i remove the dish when temp starts to reach high end of range and allow a few degree kool down.. range 110-120
7 heat source is back warmer currently..have done food warmer and water bath...couldnt get consistent product.
8 end product varies waxy not shatter not honeycomb. desired shatter, inconsistent
9 no lab
10 vac pull style is constant pull add heat prior to vacuum so muffin doesnt hit top...i feel the more you agitate the oil the more likely to budder/wax
my gauge isnt the best but i would say around 29.5ish just a mighty vac gauge.
11 MY purge times vary I never feel like its done but a minimum of 2 hours under vacuum and constant heat.
 

-Boris

New member
They are talking about hash oil. There are several ways to do it. I'm happy smoking weed. Others want an added kick.

I picked up on that much LOL. I was really referring to the scrambled list of misinformation that this thread was comprised of.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i have heard so many numbers for purging temps and techniques. so i want to clarify more

1 what temp do u purge at?
ex... 115 115F under -29.5" Hg/
2 where are u taking this measurement?
ex ... sticking probe in oil...thermo in chamber...outside chamber temp.. Surface of oil with optical thermometer
3 what are u purging in?
ex... Pyrex chamber...mason jar...metal pot style... vac oven Vac oven or chamber
4 what are u purging on?
ex....parchment...glass...silicone mat/bowl...metal...glass or parchment
5 what are you checking temps with and is this constant read?
ex.. thermometer...infrared temp gun...vac oven read...I use the ovens interior thermocouple readout, after determining the relationship between oven temp and oil temperature.
6 is this temp constant or fluctuation? if flux what range?
ex...i heat it up and put it in chamber it kools reheat.....chamber heated...oven...glass dish purge with direct heat plus or minus about two degrees F
7 what is the heat source?
ex...vac oven...back warmer... toaster oven...silicone heat pad...
water... Vac oven or silicone heat mat with chamber
8 what is your end product,desired product, and is this method making a consistent product....
ex.... i tried this way for shatter got budder...wound up with sap...makes honeycomb every time... i do it this way and it makes shatter every time... Shatter
9 this is a long shot but do any of yall get ur oil tested?
10 vac style? and what pressure 29 -28 -25 -29.9 -29.5 what do u do?
ex... i let it muffin collapse muffin collapse 25..cosntant pull under 29.9.....whip vac whip vac keep it over 25....

We test our own oil -29.5" Hg


I feel this could be the start of a nice guide so we can all at least compare notes or be on the same page as someone..we all usally have acquired different equipment.. but the more thoroughly we state how we are doing it the easier it should be to refine...so lets make some consistent clean oil..

The techniques for purging to retain shatter form, are different than making wax, That may be one reason that you are getting different answers..
 

keifsweat

Member
i was just trying to get a compilation of answers to that list from folks that make bho...
answer the questions the best way u know how according to ur technique. Obviously there is perfect way to do it and there is some people getting by on personal...not to mention commercial type guys. I figure the more people answer those questions 1st the easier it would be to answer each others questions. everybody has different equipment and a different approach/technique. the more we can know exactly how someone else does it the more we can mimic or choose to say that is not what im trying to do. just a compilation of how everyone records their info and the equipment they use...
 

keifsweat

Member
The techniques for purging to retain shatter form, are different than making wax, That may be one reason that you are getting different answers..



thanks thats what i was looking for...now for all the other guys to answer too...... then we will start to have huge compilation of everyones approach with their specific equipment

I have seen ur posts in other threads...I fully agree with your approach. and can tell u have tried many to get where u are. as i feel well on my way to having a solid method with my given equipment (will be getting briskheat 5 watt soon)

im not trying to gain info so much as put it all in on thread
 

qaxx

Member
I am pretty new at this. Started making absolute amber in December 013 using Jump117's tek with lots of great, additional info by GrayWolf. You guys rule.

1 what temp do u purge at?
I use an electric skillet with the purge vessel set in water. For both the BHO and ethanol I purge at ~130F.
2 where are u taking this measurement?
I use the controller to set the temp. Nothing more precise than that.
3 what are u purging in?
For BHO, I purge in the container with the BHO liquid, set in water in the electric skillet. For the final ethanol purge, I use a ceramic quich plate set in water in the electeric skillet.
4 what are u purging on?
I store the oil in little parchment envelopes and store them in the freezer.
5 what are you checking temps with and is this constant read?
I just use the controller on the electric skillet.
6 is this temp constant or fluctuation? if flux what range?
Not constant.
7 what is the heat source?
Electric skillet.
8 what is your end product,desired product, and is this method making a consistent product....
Absolute amber
9 this is a long shot but do any of yall get ur oil tested?
No.
10 vac style? and what pressure 29 -28 -25 -29.9 -29.5 what do u do?
No vac.
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey qaxx !

Liquid butane in any case can not be put on an electric heater.

Evaporation of butane flow down to the heater controller that will spark when switching. Will be an explosion with fire.

If I correctly understood your words -

For BHO, I purge in the container with the BHO liquid, set in water in the electric skillet.

I just use the controller on the electric skillet.

Wish you perfect AA but Safety First !
 
i think if you can open the release valve ever so slightly you can match the air coming in with the pump speed so it stays at a certain vac level. Probably would need something a little more controllable than that rubber cap on the AI's though to get an accurate inflow of air.

or just use a pump with a higher micron rating?

Not really sure what the definition of "hard vac" is though, but i think i get the gist of it
 

UNREGISTRD

Active member
I think GW answered all your questions.... Thats the Standard for shadda..
Lots of people have there own diff twirks that they find works for them but might not always work for others..
And keep in mind like greywolf said You must determine your own relationship with the temperature between your slab and your thermometer.. Ive been around enough ovens in different locations and all are set at dif temps give or take a few deg..
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
thanks thats what i was looking for...now for all the other guys to answer too...... then we will start to have huge compilation of everyones approach with their specific equipment

I have seen ur posts in other threads...I fully agree with your approach. and can tell u have tried many to get where u are. as i feel well on my way to having a solid method with my given equipment (will be getting briskheat 5 watt soon)

im not trying to gain info so much as put it all in on thread

The Briskheat 1.25 watt per square inch heat mats are fine for under an evaporating dish or stock pot vacuum chamber, and the 2.5 watters are way more than plenty energy dense. Higher wattage per square inch is going to be difficult to control smoothly, and will be much easier to burn out if accidentally run at full power in open air for too long (controller/sensor failure, etc...)
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
question... How would you pull a hard vacuum at less than the deepest your vac pump will go?

I stop my pulls at -29.5" Hg by closing the inline ball valve when the dial gauge reads where I know -29.5" Hg should be...and how do I know that?

Your Bourdon dial gauges reference ambient pressure to provide a reading http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bourdon_gauge#Bourdon they will be off by about one inch of mercury for every thousand feet of elevation above sea level. Some have an adjustment screw, but the scale will never be really correct unless at sea level imo.
So, how to calibrate your dial gauge? I have a Yellow Jacket 69075 electronic micron meter to find the real vacuum levels and made a little table that tells me when my dial gauge reads -xx.x" Hg it's actually -xy.x" Hg.
Here's another free way to calibrate your dial gauge,
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5869373&postcount=76
Some additional notes on that proceedure,
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=6058486#post6058486
 

furrywall11

Member
Do you guys think it's safe to use an electric skillet like the one you get at Kmart to purge butane? What _would_ be safe? I just bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Benchmark-Sci...eywords=ceramic+hotplate+and+magnetic+stirrer

--it's a ceramic hotplate with magnetic stirrer. I find it works well with one downside being that it's very small so when I set a full size pyrex container on it it only heats from the center out.

What do you guys think?

I'm very concerned with using a safe apparatus. I recently met a man with skin grafts all over his arms and face and he explained to me he had been in a BHO explosion. Very sobering.
 

keifsweat

Member
I am pretty new at this. Started making absolute amber in December 013 using Jump117's tek with lots of great, additional info by GrayWolf. You guys rule.

1 what temp do u purge at?
I use an electric skillet with the purge vessel set in water. For both the BHO and ethanol I purge at ~130F.
2 where are u taking this measurement?
I use the controller to set the temp. Nothing more precise than that.
3 what are u purging in?
For BHO, I purge in the container with the BHO liquid, set in water in the electric skillet. For the final ethanol purge, I use a ceramic quich plate set in water in the electeric skillet.
4 what are u purging on?
I store the oil in little parchment envelopes and store them in the freezer.
5 what are you checking temps with and is this constant read?
I just use the controller on the electric skillet.
6 is this temp constant or fluctuation? if flux what range?
Not constant.
7 what is the heat source?
Electric skillet.
8 what is your end product,desired product, and is this method making a consistent product....
Absolute amber
9 this is a long shot but do any of yall get ur oil tested?
No.
10 vac style? and what pressure 29 -28 -25 -29.9 -29.5 what do u do?
No vac.



Im trying to get all to do like this thank you more collective info
 

qaxx

Member
keifsweat, see Jump117's warning above about using electric skillet with BHO purge. He describes a double-boiler setup in his "absolute Amber" thread. Otherwise, it seems most people heat water away from the purge site and just renew it as it gets cold. Also, it seems that most people then have a longer purge on a seedling heat mat for 24 hours or more.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Do you guys think it's safe to use an electric skillet like the one you get at Kmart to purge butane? What _would_ be safe? I just bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Benchmark-Sci...eywords=ceramic+hotplate+and+magnetic+stirrer

--it's a ceramic hotplate with magnetic stirrer. I find it works well with one downside being that it's very small so when I set a full size pyrex container on it it only heats from the center out.

What do you guys think?

I'm very concerned with using a safe apparatus. I recently met a man with skin grafts all over his arms and face and he explained to me he had been in a BHO explosion. Very sobering.

Unless it is certified as an explosion proof device, I wouldn't use a hotplate for purging the initial pool of butane. Just warm tap water works, so it also isn't necessary to have an active heat source.

If you are using it under your vacuum chamber, the issue I found with our old stirring hotplate, is that it had poor temperature control in the lower ranges that we work at. Don't know about the one pictured, but I would find out before plunking down that much money.

A stirring hot plate that we've tested that does have rock steady temperature control in the ranges that we run, is the CAT Scientific MCS 66. I will be posting a thread on it soon.
 

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