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rdwc problems
- Thread starter alilderanged
- Start date
alilderanged
Member
leaf tips curling downward and drying out like crispy dry
leafs bronzing
done the exact same thing on every grow in those systems whether it be house and gardens or gh that i use. calibrate meter every two weeks roots nice and white this run is house and garden and zone never over 600 ppm
leafs bronzing
done the exact same thing on every grow in those systems whether it be house and gardens or gh that i use. calibrate meter every two weeks roots nice and white this run is house and garden and zone never over 600 ppm
Without trying to diagnose specifically, my first reaction is that ppm is too low. I use an EC scale and never go below 1.0-1.2 net (my starting is .3 EC) and gross of 1.4-1.5 EC. If I am using the right scale yours would be .85 EC. If you use the feed chart ratio than all nutes should be available in plentiful quantities. The affected growth probably won't recover though.
The only other thought now might be a rust.
alilderanged
Member
ok starting of week five of flower and the exact same thing is happening again not sure what the hell is happening
nutes gh flora series
took the drain to waste schedule and cut it in half and seemed to work up til this point
just use the grow micro bloom and liquid koolbloom plus one ml supervit and drip clean
ppm 700
ph 5.8
stopped using co2 this go cause someone said maybe the airpumps was pumping co2 to the root zone no bugs
nutes gh flora series
took the drain to waste schedule and cut it in half and seemed to work up til this point
just use the grow micro bloom and liquid koolbloom plus one ml supervit and drip clean
ppm 700
ph 5.8
stopped using co2 this go cause someone said maybe the airpumps was pumping co2 to the root zone no bugs
alilderanged
Member
using filtered water ro system with the the two membranes out
Jonny TBags
New member
What are your water temperatures? If you're ppm's and and pH are in check then you may have the beginning of root rot...tough to see well with the pictures you provided. Include a picture of the roots please
#jonnytbags
#jonnytbags
How much water is in the system?
How many gph of flow in total?
How big are the plant buckets? What size net pots are the plants in? Hydroton for medium?
How much water flow per bucket?
How high is the water level?
How often are you changing out the water?
If you lift the plant lid and look at the roots, are they white and erect roots or are they hanging straight down like a wet mop?
How many gph of flow in total?
How big are the plant buckets? What size net pots are the plants in? Hydroton for medium?
How much water flow per bucket?
How high is the water level?
How often are you changing out the water?
If you lift the plant lid and look at the roots, are they white and erect roots or are they hanging straight down like a wet mop?
Raise your pH to 6.0 and stop using the VEG. Only use the micro and bloom and dont use those company feeding charts. Before you said you were using 8mL grow, 8mL Micro and 8 mL bloom. Thats probably over 1000 ppm (500 scale) which is too much for your conditions. You need more data for us to help. Your information is lacking.
alilderanged
Member
the 8 ml was for the veg in the flood table will try to take some better pictures tomorrow and try to take some of the roots
65 gallons
8 gallon buckets
5 in net pots
hydroton balls
inch below the pot is the water line
change water weekly
danner 700 is the pump
65 gallons
8 gallon buckets
5 in net pots
hydroton balls
inch below the pot is the water line
change water weekly
danner 700 is the pump
alilderanged
Member
the roots are yellow added aquashield two days ago
alilderanged
Member
mr snype whats the amount of clorox per gallon you run in your system have never gotten the benficials to work in the rdwc
You still are lacking info. How much does the ppm go down in 3 days after top off? How does the pH swing? What range is it going? What air pumps and how many? Temp, co2, everything u can think off. All past feed data is good to know.
I use Clorox at 1 drop for every 2 gallons or 1 mL / 40 Gal
alilderanged
Member
110 l air pump
12 site
ph swing 5.8 to 5.5
add back 4 gallons a day
been adding back the grow micro bloom liquid kool bloom each time
ppm 700
just started with the co2 again last week
temp 82
12 site
ph swing 5.8 to 5.5
add back 4 gallons a day
been adding back the grow micro bloom liquid kool bloom each time
ppm 700
just started with the co2 again last week
temp 82
Not sure why you are using the grow. Why not use proven cannabis methods. Seems strange. Your pH is too low and you arent getting Mg. go to 6.0. You also need to be paying attention to what is going on with the ppms. Before you top off, if the ppms are higher than the day before, you are using too many nutes. Your formula may be imbalanced to begin with. You shouldnt be using company charts that were made to grow flowers. Stick to proven formulas like Lucas. Either use 6 ml micro and 9 bloom with 1 gram kool bloom powder per gallon or look into what Lucas is. Its probably 8mL micro and 16 bloom. Dont add kool bloom to that unless you take down the bloom.
Ole MacDonald
Member
Sounds like you have root rot. Is your 82 temp the temp of your water? What is the temp of your water? It should be 68 degrees F/20 degrees C or below.
Adding aquashield to a root rot problem will only slow it down. To get rid of it, you need to do a lot more than that.
With the little info you provided, my guess is high water temps. Also, you might want to calibrate your pen. The recipe you listed for GH nutes should be showing much higher than 700ppm.
I just got done typing this up for a friend, and it will cure your problem. But most importantly, you need to find out what caused it in the first place.
Step one can be done with stuff other than Physan 20. Snype is really good with using bleach, and that may be just as effective. There are probably many other ways to sure root rot, but this is the method I have used succesfully multiple times, and I don't post things I haven't seen with my own eyes. Hope it helps.
1. Killing the Bad Guys
Empty the old water out of your system, and replace it with the following:
Plain water
Physan 20 - 1 ml/gal
** Physan 20 is safe when used properly, but you must take every precaution not to ingest or come in contact with this super-concentrated chemical. Wear eye protection and gloves!! Make sure to read the label before using!! Do not overdose plants!
Run this for 1 to 4 hours, depending on how bad your problem is. It is totally normal for the Physan to foam up while it's killing microbes. The Physan turns the stuff it eliminates into little dark flecks that you will see floating in the foam.
2. Cleaning Up
Empty the system again, and replace with the following:
Plain water
H2O2 - 3-4 ml/gal
Run this solution for 4 hours or more.
3. Starting Over
Empty system and fill with nutrient solution and Aquashield, or whatever your preferred method is.
Now that the bad guys are gone, you need to resume feeding, and put the good guys back to guard the roots. Be sure not to add beneficials to water containing H2O2 or Physan 20, as they both kill bacteria. If you skipped step two, your beneficials will die and disease will return. If you do not flush the system well before step 3, the beneficials will die and disease will return.
The following day, add an additional half dose of Aquashield to the reservoir and you're done.
-------------------------
DO NOT USE ENZYMES (Hygrozyme, Cannazyme, etc) This may seems like a good idea at first, but take a moment to think about what these enzymes actually do. These enzymes are designed to turn decaying matter into plant food. In DWC this turns dying roots into sugar. Since bacteria eat sugar, you are essentially providing a buffet for the bad bacteria you are trying to kill.
In fact, don't ever add any sugars of any kind to a DWC system. The idea behind running beneficials is to out-compete bad bacteria for resources. If we provide an abundance of resources, the bad bacteria will flourish, and you and your plants will suffer. Nothing organic should go into your reservoir, and sugar is organic.
Beneficials (both bacteria and fungi) are very useful for increasing yield in soil plants, because they break down complex organic molecules (like sugar) into smaller pieces that plants can actually use. In return, the plants exude specific sugars designed to feed the particular beneficials that they prefer. For example, strawberries plants and cannabis plants will not exude different combinations of sugars, since they need different combinations of beneficials to help them.
In straight hydroponics, the complex organic molecules are already broken down for the plants, so beneficials are not as useful in producing greater yields. We use them solely to protect roots from bad bacteria.
Adding aquashield to a root rot problem will only slow it down. To get rid of it, you need to do a lot more than that.
With the little info you provided, my guess is high water temps. Also, you might want to calibrate your pen. The recipe you listed for GH nutes should be showing much higher than 700ppm.
I just got done typing this up for a friend, and it will cure your problem. But most importantly, you need to find out what caused it in the first place.
Step one can be done with stuff other than Physan 20. Snype is really good with using bleach, and that may be just as effective. There are probably many other ways to sure root rot, but this is the method I have used succesfully multiple times, and I don't post things I haven't seen with my own eyes. Hope it helps.
1. Killing the Bad Guys
Empty the old water out of your system, and replace it with the following:
Plain water
Physan 20 - 1 ml/gal
** Physan 20 is safe when used properly, but you must take every precaution not to ingest or come in contact with this super-concentrated chemical. Wear eye protection and gloves!! Make sure to read the label before using!! Do not overdose plants!
Run this for 1 to 4 hours, depending on how bad your problem is. It is totally normal for the Physan to foam up while it's killing microbes. The Physan turns the stuff it eliminates into little dark flecks that you will see floating in the foam.
2. Cleaning Up
Empty the system again, and replace with the following:
Plain water
H2O2 - 3-4 ml/gal
Run this solution for 4 hours or more.
3. Starting Over
Empty system and fill with nutrient solution and Aquashield, or whatever your preferred method is.
Now that the bad guys are gone, you need to resume feeding, and put the good guys back to guard the roots. Be sure not to add beneficials to water containing H2O2 or Physan 20, as they both kill bacteria. If you skipped step two, your beneficials will die and disease will return. If you do not flush the system well before step 3, the beneficials will die and disease will return.
The following day, add an additional half dose of Aquashield to the reservoir and you're done.
-------------------------
DO NOT USE ENZYMES (Hygrozyme, Cannazyme, etc) This may seems like a good idea at first, but take a moment to think about what these enzymes actually do. These enzymes are designed to turn decaying matter into plant food. In DWC this turns dying roots into sugar. Since bacteria eat sugar, you are essentially providing a buffet for the bad bacteria you are trying to kill.
In fact, don't ever add any sugars of any kind to a DWC system. The idea behind running beneficials is to out-compete bad bacteria for resources. If we provide an abundance of resources, the bad bacteria will flourish, and you and your plants will suffer. Nothing organic should go into your reservoir, and sugar is organic.
Beneficials (both bacteria and fungi) are very useful for increasing yield in soil plants, because they break down complex organic molecules (like sugar) into smaller pieces that plants can actually use. In return, the plants exude specific sugars designed to feed the particular beneficials that they prefer. For example, strawberries plants and cannabis plants will not exude different combinations of sugars, since they need different combinations of beneficials to help them.
In straight hydroponics, the complex organic molecules are already broken down for the plants, so beneficials are not as useful in producing greater yields. We use them solely to protect roots from bad bacteria.
Ole MacDonald
Member
I would also add that if you are running beneficials in your system you need to give them a home to live in as well as the proper environment. If you do not provide a home, and you are using Aquashield, then you have to keep adding it every few days to keep the res sweet. If you only add it once, eventually those bacteria will die without a place to live, and bad bacteria will take over. Here are water conditions that will keep root rot from coming back:
67 degree water - use a water chiller or add frozen water bottles as needed)
dissolved oxygen - a 110 l air pump is decent, but your water would have to be flowing really fast in order for that to support 12 buckets. If I were you, I'd put an airstone in each bucket if you are in doubt.
a home to live in - Beneficials need something porous to live in. Lava rocks or biofilters make great homes for beneficials. Secondly, water needs to be moving over the home for them to flourish.
Lastly, warm water holds much less oxygen, kills beneficials, and encourages bad bacteria like pythium.
Look forward to hearing more info on your system... especially the temperature of your water!
67 degree water - use a water chiller or add frozen water bottles as needed)
dissolved oxygen - a 110 l air pump is decent, but your water would have to be flowing really fast in order for that to support 12 buckets. If I were you, I'd put an airstone in each bucket if you are in doubt.
a home to live in - Beneficials need something porous to live in. Lava rocks or biofilters make great homes for beneficials. Secondly, water needs to be moving over the home for them to flourish.
Lastly, warm water holds much less oxygen, kills beneficials, and encourages bad bacteria like pythium.
Look forward to hearing more info on your system... especially the temperature of your water!
alilderanged
Member
water temp 67 will raise to six and monitor the ppm. use the 6/9
alilderanged
Member
airstone in each bucket also
