Terpenation at Terpene Station
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
You only do hr long runs? Are you decarbing all your oil?
RegisPhilburn1
Member
No i dont decarb usually, on the MKIII with a 1.5"x24" column and about 100F on the collection pot, regular ice on tank it takes me about 20min to finish a column, and i do 3 max into a 6x12 collection pot, so ya about an hour at a time. i run it probably 6-8 hrs a day, just not all at once...
Just finished my larger terp, 12x12 bottom, so i think ill be doing some 2hr runs soon, but 36 hrs is wayyy too long. sounds like that guy had no heat on collection pot and still wanted to recover.
Way too long for sure! Sounds like it was one time, in -10 degree weather....I'm guessing "that guy" was using a 10" collection vessel. Im interested to hear how the bigger terp runs, what size columns are you running on that? Im popping my 12x12's cherry tomorrow.....big girls need lovin too!
HighStateToke
Member
How about a 10"x12" spool?
Which leads me to IVA Phoenix territory..Gray Wolf, do you have a parts list of all the new parts you've added to the IV?
HighStateToke
Member
Lately, I've seen people incorporating larger ball valves into their units. What are the benefits of this and would something like a 2" valve even be desirable? I assume that would be apt if you were operating a larger terpenator, but could that cause problems if working with smaller volume?
A
AlterEgo860
do u think some of the waxs could be increased or decreased by a proper flush.. and yellowing of the plants? I just smoked some bho from nugs.. and the nugs were dark green.. and compared to my oil .. his was soo goddamn harsh and made me cough every single hit.
Flush probably has no effect on wax content of your oil because the waxes are like suberin and cutin which flushing does not affect.
In my parlance, once it has a 10" lower end, is a Mk IV instead of a Mk III. A Mk V has a 12" lower end
I will post a parts list once I get it updated to reflect as built and to find the time to put a special a composite list, detailing the component parts.
As you can see, right now my only updated one calls out print numbers, that detail assemblies of parts not on the list.
Attachments
What is more efficient? More washes with less solvent, or fewer washes
with a larger volume of solvent? We started with 3lbs of solvent and did 3 washes
for 3-400g material. Now we do two washes with 5lbs of solvent. Thinking of
doing one wash with 10lbs of solvent.
As a side note, we re-ran some stuff we got a 14% return from of golden goodness,
and ended up with about 2% of some nasty stuff...
with a larger volume of solvent? We started with 3lbs of solvent and did 3 washes
for 3-400g material. Now we do two washes with 5lbs of solvent. Thinking of
doing one wash with 10lbs of solvent.
As a side note, we re-ran some stuff we got a 14% return from of golden goodness,
and ended up with about 2% of some nasty stuff...
I've experienced that running until clear with a single long flood on a larger system uses too much butane and creates long recovery times.
The juice aint worth the squeeze imo.
Lol my experience mirrors this as well. 2-3% on second wash of some real bullshit.
The reason I ask is because I recently did a kief run and stopped when I didn't see swirls anymore. Yield was only 24%. Today I ran way longer -- still not till it was clear as I don't think it was ever going to happen -- and got 28%.
ALTER EGO,
Probably a title to a new thread really. Flushing plants is really just starving them before they reach the finish. Im pretty sure that flushing myth has been busted.
" Teaming with nutrients" and
"The Intelligent Gardener"
books you should read if you havent already...
To answer your question, yes. If you starve a plant, it will turn to its fat reserve for energy, then onto eating its own leaves etc. You also miss out on a maximum trichome coverage and terpene production for the same reason. Removing 'waxes' with your grow methods will diminish your returns and quality overall. Best to pump your plants up and max out the fat/lipids and keep em fat and happy. 2% plant fat is the goal to try and attain. Get that on point and see everything take off to another level. True genetic potential is what we are trying to bring out of these plants... check out John Kempf's audio @ the 2013 bionutrient conference for more....
http://bionutrient.org/library/audio-archive
Probably a title to a new thread really. Flushing plants is really just starving them before they reach the finish. Im pretty sure that flushing myth has been busted.
" Teaming with nutrients" and
"The Intelligent Gardener"
books you should read if you havent already...
To answer your question, yes. If you starve a plant, it will turn to its fat reserve for energy, then onto eating its own leaves etc. You also miss out on a maximum trichome coverage and terpene production for the same reason. Removing 'waxes' with your grow methods will diminish your returns and quality overall. Best to pump your plants up and max out the fat/lipids and keep em fat and happy. 2% plant fat is the goal to try and attain. Get that on point and see everything take off to another level. True genetic potential is what we are trying to bring out of these plants... check out John Kempf's audio @ the 2013 bionutrient conference for more....
http://bionutrient.org/library/audio-archive
Are you sure about this? It has been a while since I took biology but I thought plants cannibalize their reserves of sugar which have readily available energy. AFAIK plant waxes exist on the plant not as energy reserves but as a hydrophobic outer layer (to prevent uncontrollable transpiration).
However the point is still valid that a healthier plant that hasn't been "flushed" will yield an oil with proportionally less waxes.
