What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Kontos will take care of Both Root Aphids and Fungus Gnats

Good to know. I never tried Kontos (it is a systemic only--no contact capabilities), but I do know has a very very short half-life and degrades quickly in soil (which is GOOD!).

Kontos (Spirotetramat) has a half-life of less than one day in soil (just like pyrethrin). Imid (contact & systemic) has a 200-600 day half-life and Orthene (contact & systemic) is around 6 days or so (and causes no harm to the microherd). Many synthetic pyrethrin products have a half-life than number in the hundreds of days....no bueno!

BTW, back in the day when I was battling Root Aphids...I did discover an interesting correlation: What ever killed Root Aphids--also killed Fungus Gnats. Makes sense, both are soil dwellers that feed on roots.

Nothing like having a pesticide that is a "two-fer"--Root Aphids & Fungus Gnats.

Cheers!
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
Last, what bugs are you trying to kill? Often improper pesticide use leads to resistance. So be deliberate and have a plan. On the up side, pests really don't become resistant to Neem over generations.

pests can't become resistant to neem oil due to the fact that if they are affected by neem oil they will not be able to breed therefore resistance can not be developed...

All leaf-eating insects are wiped out as are all insects actually coming into
contact with Neem. This huge array of insecticidal properties of Neem is thought to
be due to it’s adversely effecting the insects hormone system. If that is so then no
insect will be able to become immune, because it’s hormone system is essential for
every bodily function. Most significant, insects develop resistance in each
subsequent generation, and as insects dosed with Neem cannot breed, thus there
are no subsequent generations in which resistance can develop. (Ref. Australia DPI)

http://www.ublcorp.com/files/Biological_Insecticides.pdf
 
Was looking around online for treatment for fungus gnats and came across this thread. Will Bayer citrus fruits work? I've read a bunch of these pages.... but my goodness!! I skipped to the back end and i still see mixed opinions about using the Bayer product. The citrus fruits is supposedly good for just that? Curious what you all think. Thanks!
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Was looking around online for treatment for fungus gnats and came across this thread. Will Bayer citrus fruits work? I've read a bunch of these pages.... but my goodness!! I skipped to the back end and i still see mixed opinions about using the Bayer product. The citrus fruits is supposedly good for just that? Curious what you all think. Thanks!

Well Bayer's Fruit/Citrus/Veggie active ingredient is imidacloprid. First, imidacloprid is systemic, which means the chemicals remain at unsafe levels in the plant for at least a month. So never use in flower!

Second, you have to do a drench, not a foliar spray. It's the fg larvae that cause problems, not the fliers. And the larvae reproduce in the soil/media.

BTW - I can confirm that this will wipe em out. Howver, it is the nuclear option and not a first choice.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Well Bayer's Fruit/Citrus/Veggie active ingredient is imidacloprid. First, imidacloprid is systemic, which means the chemicals remain at unsafe levels in the plant for at least a month. ....

Hmmm, more like 200-900 days. Investigate the half-life of imidacloprid and it will surprise/scare you.

Cheers!
 
Well Bayer's Fruit/Citrus/Veggie active ingredient is imidacloprid. First, imidacloprid is systemic, which means the chemicals remain at unsafe levels in the plant for at least a month. So never use in flower!

Second, you have to do a drench, not a foliar spray. It's the fg larvae that cause problems, not the fliers. And the larvae reproduce in the soil/media.

BTW - I can confirm that this will wipe em out. Howver, it is the nuclear option and not a first choice.
I run a top feed hyrdo so i would use it in my rez. I also have a real short time frame so i need something quick! I plan to use this stuff and then flip in a week. Can you recommend me some dosage numbers ml/gal? Thanks!
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Bayer fruit/veggis is .2533% Imid
I have Benefit at 60.00% Imid
Benefit - 20 grams for 100 gallons and will treat 500-3000 plants so,

If I did the math right about 47 grams per gallon so a little over 1 1/2 ounces per gallon. And that should treat 5-30 plants depending on pot size (and type of plant).

But, I prefer Azamax drench at .8 oz/gallon of water twice within a week and then follow up with predator nematodes.
 
Has anyone tried a neem drench in hydroton? If neem isn't good for hydroton, what's my best option? I just found some root aphids crawling around on some roots that poke out near my drain. Black ones. I've got some neem but not sure if I should use it in hydroton and I have some Bayer, but I'm in week 4 of flower, and don't want to use systemic chems unless I have to. I've read a lot about orthene/riptide but I can't get that until next week and I want to hit them asap, but don't want to fry my plants as they are still healthy. Thanks!
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
i am a neem oil fan boy...however i have never used it in hydro systems...it maybe a better to soak some neem cake in water and use that rather than using neem oil. neem oil does however breakdown quite quickly and shouldn't leave any (much) residue, but it may block fine drippers etc...

btw only use pure neem oil...not that hydrophobic crap....

for those using imid you may want to watch this vid, especially around the 28 minute mark

http://humboldt-dspace.calstate.edu/bitstream/handle/2148/1628/HIIMR_Raber_video/html?sequence=5

written article: http://www.times-standard.com/local...e-you-smoking-study-finds-pesticides-transfer
 

pappy masonjar

Well-known member
Veteran
I cant watch videos cause my internet is too slow.
Any chance you could sum it up. I only need one word or so. Good? Bad? Safe? Unsafe?

Please and thank you :thank you:
 
Thanks ozzie. I have the dyna-gro 100% neem oil. Just scared to use it on hydroton, don't want to burn my plants. I don't have any drippers, its flood and drain hydroton. The other plants are in coco so I will hit those with neem today. Not sure what to do for the hydro. I don't have any neem cake, and would have to order it online. I want to hit them with something else sooner than that.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Get some Insecticide Soap [not dish soap or Dr. Bonners, etc]. Run it for 30 mins or so. Immediately flush well with plain pH'd water. Not systemic. No residual. Then feed incl root stim. UConn Ag said this killed them as well as anything, plus unlike other insecticides, it helps remove the waxy excretion on the roots that the RA's leave behind that slows recovery. This should get you thru harvest. Then use the Orthene/Avid routine [unless you're organic] on mothers, etc., with thorough room clean. Good luck. -granger
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
I cant watch videos cause my internet is too slow.
Any chance you could sum it up. I only need one word or so. Good? Bad? Safe? Unsafe?

basically they tested cannabis treated with pesticides and found that the most of the pesticide can be transferred through smoke...so yeah bad...filtering the smoke worked well but pipes and bongs transferred the most...a filtered bong removed the most...

HTH
 

sahdgrower

Member
Hey I have read a ton of this post and a ton of others on RA. I hate the inconsistency of information but I am going to try neem dunking my plants in hyrdoton/dwc system. Check my thread operation RAD maybe you can help me out. So far I have tested hot water and my home made SNS 203. Tonight I will test the neem dunk. Any suggestions for potency/dilution or how long to dunk plants?
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
In soil or coco, you need 30 mins with entire container and root ball below water level. With hydroton probably a lot less. What you need is for the entire root ball to get soaked. The area just below stem is hard to penetrate and that area is RA Central. The Neem Oil needs to be emusified or the oil itself will damage the roots. Put oil and 1 tsp/gal [of final solution] of Lecithin in a blender. You can make a concentrate in the blender, then dilute. Good luck. -granger
 
Top