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Sick Crop

Robco_Bliss

New member
I could use some help with figuring out what is ailing my plants. At first I thought I had a nitrogen deficiency. After 2 feedings and about 10 days later I'm still not seeing any improvement. It just seems like its not producing any chlorophyll.

1k light. They are 4 weeks into veg. Around 7 weeks old all together. Feed water water cycle. Technaflora feed program with souluable seaweed additive. Grown in soil. Heavy perlite and Scott's premium potting soil.
 

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al70

Active member
Veteran
Sulfur Deficiency


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Problem: A sulfur deficiency will manifest itself as all-over chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) starting with the oldest leaves and may look like a nitrogen deficiency at first. The parts that are underneath the leaves may take on a distinctive pinkish red or orange color. The buds on a flowering plant may start dying off. Unlike other deficiencies that cause chlorosis, a sulfur deficiency will start at the back of the leaf and move it's way forward as opposed to started at the tips. Leaves become stiff and brittle and will eventually fall off.

This marijuana plant is showing the signs of a sulfur deficiencyThis cannabis plant is showing th very first signs of a sulphur deficiencyThis pot plant is showing the signs of a sulphur deficiency (yellowng of leaves starting from the center)More information on sulphur deficiencies in your cannabis plant

Solution: Check and correct your pH to make sure that your sulfur isn't being locked out. Sulfur moves slowly through the plant so it may take a few days after you fix the problem before you start noticing an improvement in your plant.














Leaf Color:


Pale Color Leaves

Yellow Leaves - Lower, older leaves

Yellowing Between Veins


Leaf Symptoms:


Lower Leaves / Older Growth Affected

Yellowing Between Veins

Slow Growth


Plant Symptoms:


Slow Growth


Other Symptoms:


Buds Not Fattening
 

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carson

Active member
al70: Your description of Sulfur Deficiency states that it begins with the oldest (or lowest) leaves. In the picture above, the issue seems to be starting at the top of the plant with the newest growth, you can still see green on the lower leaves. I'm not saying it isn't a sulfur deficiency, but are sulfur deficiencies known to occasionally affect the newest growth first? Or to leave the oldest growth green?
 

al70

Active member
Veteran
I'm not 100% sure what it is carson, certainly looks like it, for sure it's a lockout of some sort, ph needs checking
 
It's definitely an immobile nutrient deficiency. They tend to happen in combination, and are usually due to pH being out of range (since most immobile nutrients are micro nutrients, there is usually enough in the soil/nutes).

My guess is your pH has drifted over 7. Go grab a cheap pH test kit and test your water, nutrients, and run-off. Might also want to grab some pH down while you are in the store.
 

Robco_Bliss

New member
Stems are still green and slightly woody. Leaves are way narrower than I normally grow. I trimmed out the fan leaves thinking I could maybe correct the problem with more light down to the main stem. No change. I have started applying a 12 ml solution of bc mag cal per liter foliar spray when I put the girls to sleep and a 2 tsp mixture of Epsom salts per gallon of water that's ph balanced to around 6.2.

I just few allied my grow room right before the veg of these girls. New Sheetrock and I did not wipe the room down perfectly clean before I sat the plants back in. Sheetrock here is made of gypsum. Could by chance all this gypsum dust be screwing with my ph levels in the soil? This is my 5th grow so I still a very young cannibus afficianado. Of course I would one day like to have an entry into the cannibus World Cup. Hey I can deem right!

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I am also considering using a product called black jack mn. This is a commercial grade magnesium and manganese supplement for large area farm crops. Requires 30 gallons to .5 gallon mix ratio applied foliar. Any objections or warnings before I try this technique. I have these nuts readily available because I'm a commercial farmer.

Again thanks for all the advice. Soil ph according to my tester is at 6.7. Higher than I like.
 

justanotherbozo

Active member
Veteran
...have you ever considered growing in coco hempy buckets?

i've been growing now for about 8 years and i've tried more than a couple of styles and i'm here to tell you that growing in soil can be very tricky until you gain enough experience to mix your own.

...coco hempy buckets grown KISS style on the other hand are about as easy and failsafe a method as i've ever run across, ...if you switch to hempy's problems like this just don't come up.

...here's a couple shots from a couple years ago when i first started using this technique where you can see i was using 2liter Coke bottles as my 'pots', aka 'hempy buckets'. ...switching to coco hempy's was the single greatest improvement i've ever made to my grow since i popped my first bean.

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...now i grow in 6liter 'pots' aka 'hempy buckets'.

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...i know this doesn't help you now bro and i really feel for you but i doubt these will do anything meaningful for you after this kind of stress so i would strongly suggest you do a little research on 'hempy' and KISS so when you reach the wall with these current plants you have a backup plan.

...once you switch to hempy's it'll be smooth sailing from that day onward.

peace, bozo
 

Robco_Bliss

New member
Made a switch to rockwool. 6x6x6 blocks on 12x4x36 inch slabs. Ive placed my fresh crop of white widow auto flower on these switched lights and will start vetting as I write this. For those of us that can't afford to go drop 500 to 600 right now on nutes what would you suggest. I've always tried to stay organic if possible but it's not feasible at this time.

Like I said before I have some of the technaflora nutes left. Quite a bit actually. These scare me a bit now. I also have a chem feet that is 9-50-35 with a 1 tsp per gallon of water ratio. Also after checking the soil ph and water ph I found it to be at 7.0 to 7.3. I recently switched water sources and never thought to readjust my ph Down mix ratios. I'm hoping that theae changes will help improve my chances of a better crop.
 

Robco_Bliss

New member
Bozo. What is that hanging in the middle I your grow? Is that a cfl on a mogul socket for light under the dense canopy?
 
The problem with synthetic fertilizers including technaflora Scott's premium etc is they often contain ingredients such as edta or potas. Hydroxide, persistent environmental toxins, (PET) and strong chelators, that release toxic chemicals when they come into contact with metals in the soil such as lime or potash. So feeding the plant had become it's death knell. Your best bet to get anything good from the plant is to water it with a vermicompost slurry asap. That is just compost mixed with water. To begin breaking down PET's and return your plants to health. Then follow up with organic fertilizers and compost tea's to finish

I agree there is a ph problem and sulphur deficiency. Just that solving it the hydroponic way will not help at any point.

High
 

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