What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Rusty dust alike on leaves. Plant drying & dying from the bottom

keroro

New member
Dear ICMAGs,

I have a problem here. All my plants got wiped out starting week 8. My system as follow
- Indoor DWC
- PH 6 +- 0.5
- Flowering 12th week
- Room temp - 28-30 degrees celsius.
- Hydro Solution. NPK, Mg, S, Mn, Zn, Cu, B, Mo, Ca, Fe

Symptom
My plants are going well, fast, green and strong. but suddenly....
- Leaves start to have rusty like dust which cannot be blown off. (Please see attached image)
- Water intake decrease drastically.
- Symptom looks like calcium def however, I did not change my hydro combination. The thing just strike in a sudden.
- Plant starts to dry and die from the bottom up. All this happen during flowing stage week 8.
- This sickness had spread to my vegetation room.
- Stem of the plant start to become brown.
- Stem become brittle.
- No sign of tip burning. Whole leave just dry off entirely after some time.
- No visible mites or spiders.

My approach (but failed)
Add in H2O2 from pharmacy. Using calculation (10)*(Liters)/(%of H2O2). however, the tips of my leaves starting to turn purple after some time.

Hope someone can enlighten me with a solution.
Thank you very much.
DSC_0205_cleaned.jpg

DSC_0204_cleaned.jpg

DSC_0199_cleaned.jpg

DSC_0197_cleaned.jpg
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0205.cleaned.jpg
    DSC_0205.cleaned.jpg
    45.3 KB · Views: 7
  • DSC_0204.cleaned.jpg
    DSC_0204.cleaned.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 4
  • DSC_0199.cleaned.jpg
    DSC_0199.cleaned.jpg
    35 KB · Views: 4
  • DSC_0197.cleaned.jpg
    DSC_0197.cleaned.jpg
    34.1 KB · Views: 8

GrnMtFinn

Member
those are signs of the sporebearing structures of a species of rust fungus, a basidiomycete. in agriculture, species of rusts are known to attack coffee, wheat, oats, soy, pine, cedar, and apples. Not sure which species this is, there are over 7,000. apply some sort of fungicide and remove infected tissues. look up some management practice recommendations from an ag university extension website. you could possibly use some sort of homemade garlic based foliar spray as garlic has fungicidal properties. this will give you some sort of start anyway. pathogens account for nearly 30% of crop losses pre- and post-harvest globally every year.
 

keroro

New member
Did you do a root inspection? -granger
Dear Granger. Yes, I did check on the roots. The roots turn slightly brown. I cut open the stem and inside are still white and healthy.


Looks almost more like a fungal problem then a deficiency.
Dear Rambone. Yes. I do suspect fungal problem instead of deficiency. Reason is because this problem came in a sudden and wipe out my whole plantation in 1-2weeks time.


Looks like mites?
Dear Ganjourno. I think they are invincible to naked eye. I will microscope this alien and post a photo to you guys.


those are signs of the sporebearing structures of a species of rust fungus, a basidiomycete. in agriculture, species of rusts are known to attack coffee, wheat, oats, soy, pine, cedar, and apples. Not sure which species this is, there are over 7,000. apply some sort of fungicide and remove infected tissues. look up some management practice recommendations from an ag university extension website. you could possibly use some sort of homemade garlic based foliar spray as garlic has fungicidal properties. this will give you some sort of start anyway. pathogens account for nearly 30% of crop losses pre- and post-harvest globally every year.
Dear GrnMtFinn. Thank you for you advise. I thinks is some kind of fungus. They grow constantly throughout the whole plant. I will try with some homemade garlic foliar spray while I order some fungicide. I read some of the articles about this too. They usually happen few weeks before harvest. Will keep you guys posted.
If you have any links I can read about, please share it with me. Thank you very much.

Dear Third Coast. Thank you for your advise. The foreign object on the leaves are scattered around instead of grouping at one place and they are brownish/reddish.
After running through the links. I see people are use sulfur. I shall give it a shot.

Attack it as soon as you can!! Garlic works wonders as Grn said.
Dear Aridbud. Will give it a try. Will the garlic solution burn the leaves? Any good guide lines for the concentrations?


There are a few suspects.
1) basidiomycete - Fungi
2) Galendromus Occidentalis - Mites
3) Russet mites - Mites

My approach this week.
1) use food grade H2O2 in the tank - calculation (10)*(Liters)/(%of H2O2)
2) garlic solution spray. might add pepper and other anti fungal stuffs.
 

justanotherbozo

Active member
Veteran
...high man, sorry i have no experience with your particular problem but i share this information on milk as a useful organic fungicide in hopes it helps you with your problem as it has me when dealing with powdery mildew, another fungal problem.

...i'd mix the milk at a 10 to 1 ratio in your garlic solution and i'd also add a couple drops of dish washing detergent which works not only as a surfactant but it also acts like an acid on the shells of mites, it doesn't kill eggs but it does kill adults.

hope this helps, bozo

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Milk is a useful fungicide in the garden, and is more effective than standard chemical brands.


Researchers believe the potassium phosphate in milk boosts a plant's immune system to fight the fungi.

Where most organic gardeners use a baking soda, soap and oil solution, milk may be substituted to combat the unwanted fungus.

Preparing a Milk Solution and Spraying Schedule

The correct dilution and spraying schedule for garden plants depends on the situation and takes some trial and error.

A milk fungicide solution can range from 1 part milk to 9 parts water, to a strong, milk-only solution. A 1:1 dilution may work for a week, but a 1:8 solution requires spraying every 3 or 4 days.

Skim milk may work better than whole milk, as the higher fat milk may clog a sprayer; even reconstituted powdered milk works.

Uses for Milk Fungicide

Milk was originally used in the garden to treat powdery mildew on squash plants. It is now also commonly used on flowers such as rudebekia (Black-eyed Susans) and Begonias to cure powdery mildew.

Milk has also been used to cure Botrytis on a Cyclamen houseplant. This was applied full strength every morning (leftover breakfast milk). Rotten leaves were picked away and the plant pulled through with no more Botrytis.

Black spots and rust on roses can be controlled but not cured with milk. Fortunately, milk can prevent the spread of these fungi to other plants and new leaves. This can be very useful when bringing home a plant from the nursery and finding a black spot.


The copyright of the article Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in Organic Gardening is owned by Deborah Turton. Permission to republish Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


by Arzeena Hamir
Powdery Mildew

Less than 3 years ago, researchers in South America discovered a new alternative to controlling powdery mildew. Wagner Bettiol, a scientist from Brazil, found that weekly sprays of milk controlled powdery mildew in zucchini just as effectively as synthetic fungicides such as fenarimol or benomyl. Not only was milk found to be effective at controlling the disease, it also acted as a foliar fertilizer, boosting the plant's immune system.

Powdery mildew in the cucurbit family is caused by the organism Sphaerotheca Fuliginea. It is a serious disease that occurs worldwide. For decades, organic gardeners had to rely on making a spray from baking soda to control the disease. Now, instead of measuring out the baking soda and combining it with a surfactant (a "sticking" substance) of either oil or soap, gardeners need only head for their refrigerators.

In his experiments with zucchini plants, Bettiol found that a weekly spray of milk at a concentration of at least 10% (1 part milk to 9 parts water) significantly reduced the severity of powdery mildew infection on the plants by 90%. While some gardeners may be tempted to increase the concentration of milk for more control, Bettiol found that once concentrations rose above 30%, an innoccuous fungus began to grow on the plants. How does milk control powdery mildew?

Scientist aren't 100% sure how milk works to control this disease. It seems that milk is a natural germicide. In addition, it contains several naturally occurring salts and amino acids that are taken up by the plant. From previous experiments using sodium bicarbonate, potassium phosphate, and other salts, researchers have found that the disease is sensitive to these salts. It is possible then, that milk boosts the plant's immune system to prevent the disease.

Milk used around the world
The benefits of using milk to control powdery mildew haven't been isolated to Brazil. Melon growers in New Zealand are saving thousands of dollars every year by spraying their crops with milk instead of synthetic fungicides. The melon growers in New Zealand have been so successful that the wine industry is taking notice and beginning experiments using milk to control powdery mildew in grapes.

What kind of milk should be used?
In Bettiol's original experiment, fresh milk was used, straight from the cow. However, this is obviously not feasible to most home gardeners. The research work in New Zealand actually found that using skim milk was just as effective. Not only was it cheaper, but the fact that the milk had no fat content meant that there was less chance of any odours.

Wagner Bettiol's original article was published in the journal Crop Science (Vol. 18, 1999, pp. 489-92).
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Kiroro,
I've seen the rust colored veins with Root Aphid. Plus you've got browning roots. Use good lite and preferably a large low power magnifying glass to check for RA's. You have to be quick cuz they quickly disappear into the medium. Do this to at least eliminate RA's as a cause. Good luck. -granger
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top