spacecadet
Member
Thinking of pulling the carpet as its shot thanks to a x girl friend dogs. but its a spare bedroom so kind of hate to do it but be on less thing i got to worry with.
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best ways to kill everything in a grow room
- Thread starter spacecadet
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Thinking of pulling the carpet as its shot thanks to a x girl friend dogs. but its a spare bedroom so kind of hate to do it but be on less thing i got to worry with.
spacecadet
Member
Thanks man I will get some pure Neem Oil.
Pull the carpet... Imo, no matter what you do, you won't rid yourself of mites until you pull the carpet.
well imo it's good news that it's spider mites and not broad mitesyou were dealing with. just give that room a good clean. as there have been no plants for a year there should be no where for spider mites to have hidden. they need some plants to live in. so once the room is clean make sure the new plants are clean too.
i also noticed that the aza- neem products didnt do shit to my pests, while as soon as i got a simple neem oil it was kick ass. anyway best of luck.
i also noticed that the aza- neem products didnt do shit to my pests, while as soon as i got a simple neem oil it was kick ass. anyway best of luck.
The carpet def. has to go my friend. I know you both came long way, but it's time to part. ;-)
Get the room sterilized as thoroughly as you can.
Use the stuff the other guys mentioned to get rid of pests, and then there are sprays (like the stuff they use in hospitals to sanitize things) in larger bottles that will do the job for all germs, fungi& most single cell organisms, that might survive your dr doom or whatever you'll be using.
I spray my cabinet down with this stuff before growing. It's alcohol based I believe ( will destroy bacterias' outer hull on contact and inhibit viruses) so no need to worry about more deadly chemicals.
take care and stay safe!
Get the room sterilized as thoroughly as you can.
Use the stuff the other guys mentioned to get rid of pests, and then there are sprays (like the stuff they use in hospitals to sanitize things) in larger bottles that will do the job for all germs, fungi& most single cell organisms, that might survive your dr doom or whatever you'll be using.
I spray my cabinet down with this stuff before growing. It's alcohol based I believe ( will destroy bacterias' outer hull on contact and inhibit viruses) so no need to worry about more deadly chemicals.
take care and stay safe!
"Habitat and Life Cycle
Several species of spider mites occur in Nevada. The two-spotted spider mite is the most widespread. It occurs on a wide variety of indoor and outdoor plants. Two-spotted spider mites are particularly common on beans, raspberries, roses and many indoor plants. Spruce spider mites are found on junipers, spruce and other needle-leafed evergreens. Clover mites occur as periodic pests of lawns and are a nuisance when they migrate into homes. Most spider mites overwinter as adults, hidden in bark cracks or under debris around gardens. As air temperatures warm in the spring, mites become active and begin to feed and mate. Adult females may lay dozens of eggs over a two week period. Eggs hatch into six-legged larvae, and then pass through two eight-legged nymph stages before becoming adults. This takes a few days to several weeks depending on environmental conditions, the availability of food, and pressure from natural enemies. Environmental conditions have an important influence on the
development of spider mite populations. Populations grow rapidly when weather is hot and humidity is low, and when plants are water-stressed from drought or improper irrigation. Problems with mite injury are most common on hot, dry, dusty sites. In addition, dusty conditions inhibit the effectiveness of natural enemies of spider mites, which are not as well adapted to these harsh circumstances."
http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/other/fs9605.pdf
Please believe mites don't need plants to live on... The debris in your carpet will do just fine.
Several species of spider mites occur in Nevada. The two-spotted spider mite is the most widespread. It occurs on a wide variety of indoor and outdoor plants. Two-spotted spider mites are particularly common on beans, raspberries, roses and many indoor plants. Spruce spider mites are found on junipers, spruce and other needle-leafed evergreens. Clover mites occur as periodic pests of lawns and are a nuisance when they migrate into homes. Most spider mites overwinter as adults, hidden in bark cracks or under debris around gardens. As air temperatures warm in the spring, mites become active and begin to feed and mate. Adult females may lay dozens of eggs over a two week period. Eggs hatch into six-legged larvae, and then pass through two eight-legged nymph stages before becoming adults. This takes a few days to several weeks depending on environmental conditions, the availability of food, and pressure from natural enemies. Environmental conditions have an important influence on the
development of spider mite populations. Populations grow rapidly when weather is hot and humidity is low, and when plants are water-stressed from drought or improper irrigation. Problems with mite injury are most common on hot, dry, dusty sites. In addition, dusty conditions inhibit the effectiveness of natural enemies of spider mites, which are not as well adapted to these harsh circumstances."
http://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/other/fs9605.pdf
Please believe mites don't need plants to live on... The debris in your carpet will do just fine.
What bobble said! ^^ They will be hiding on a green surface somewhere trust me. Or in the walls, Pyrethrum 5 EC is better than neem oil by leaps and bounds, my opinion of Neem in my extensive experience is it's proper shit as a pesticide.
Pyrethrum 5 EC is a fertilizer when used correctly and not a growth suppressant like neem oil. So don't use neem its bad for growing plants fast!
Neem powder mixed into a substrate I can understand, but neem oil is useless.
Pyrethrum 5 EC is a fertilizer when used correctly and not a growth suppressant like neem oil. So don't use neem its bad for growing plants fast!
Neem powder mixed into a substrate I can understand, but neem oil is useless.
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Someone I knew grew in what he called a cold room, kept it around 72-75 F year round. Pests are lazy when it's that chilled. Spider mites and broad mites don't get much traction in the cool.
But also note that when you type in Pyrethium 5 EC to Google, THIS THREAD on ICMag.com is the first shown in the list... guess you guys are the EXPERTS.
But also note that when you type in Pyrethium 5 EC to Google, THIS THREAD on ICMag.com is the first shown in the list... guess you guys are the EXPERTS.
I haven't looked back since using Pyrethrum. I promise this is the Dog's Bollocks, it is a excellent product. Buy it is all I can say and use it weekly!
http://www.agropharm.co.uk/ClientArea/files/Labels/CropsInsecticides/Pyrethrum5EC.pdf
http://www.agropharm.co.uk/ClientArea/files/Labels/CropsInsecticides/Pyrethrum5EC.pdf
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Pylon, judo, or forbid
If they survive that you sir have something new on your hands. When i get new genetics from somewhere i always run quartine them for a good month to make sure nothing new is introduced. After the genetics are cleaned up i move them to my mother room which is sprayed with neem as a preventive . I like the Judo because it kills eggs as well where other miticides dont. Plus its also for white flies
"Judo is a miticide/insecticide in a new chemical class (tetronic acids) with a new mode of action that is highly effective against a wide range of mites and whiteflies. Judo affects all development stages of mites and whiteflies (including eggs and transformation stages). Judo is translaminar and moves readily through the leaf tissue. Judo provides extended residual control of mites (30+ days) and whiteflies (21+ days). Usage is 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon."
If they survive that you sir have something new on your hands. When i get new genetics from somewhere i always run quartine them for a good month to make sure nothing new is introduced. After the genetics are cleaned up i move them to my mother room which is sprayed with neem as a preventive . I like the Judo because it kills eggs as well where other miticides dont. Plus its also for white flies
"Judo is a miticide/insecticide in a new chemical class (tetronic acids) with a new mode of action that is highly effective against a wide range of mites and whiteflies. Judo affects all development stages of mites and whiteflies (including eggs and transformation stages). Judo is translaminar and moves readily through the leaf tissue. Judo provides extended residual control of mites (30+ days) and whiteflies (21+ days). Usage is 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon."
Well sir here is your problem...
Your mities are now immune to your homemade spray which is why your having a problem after 2 plus years. When dealing with pests espically as stubborn as mites you need to change the method of attack (active ingredient). Someone also mentioned that azamax stopped working? Same reason.
This is one of the key things they teach you when getting a pest control license. Make friends with one and you will learn a lot. Find three totally different ways to kill your mites and rotate them weekly.
P.S. Dont waste your time on doctor doom's they are a joke especially for how deep into the problem you are. If you want to use an aerosol bomb id got with the Pylon TR. It even kills Thirps and Broad mites.
Your mities are now immune to your homemade spray which is why your having a problem after 2 plus years. When dealing with pests espically as stubborn as mites you need to change the method of attack (active ingredient). Someone also mentioned that azamax stopped working? Same reason.
This is one of the key things they teach you when getting a pest control license. Make friends with one and you will learn a lot. Find three totally different ways to kill your mites and rotate them weekly.
P.S. Dont waste your time on doctor doom's they are a joke especially for how deep into the problem you are. If you want to use an aerosol bomb id got with the Pylon TR. It even kills Thirps and Broad mites.
I had a problem with mites that made me want to quit growing. But then I found Forbid. It took about 4 days before the last mite left and ate my girlfriends house plant lol. But they never came back. Just a few drops and a quick spray (you only have to spray one side of the leaf) and your problems are gone. The small bottle from ebay goes a long ways. And ps. I've tried doctor doom and it seemed better at killing plants then mites.
Yes sir. You can go the cheap route and spend damn near as much on 30 different things and hope they work or you can invest the money and know you wont have the problem ever again. Plus you can make your money back by selling smaller dosages to your friends if needed. Personally, Id rather have the extra just in case.
for years i kept getting re-infestations of broad mites.
what i did last april has kept it bug free until recently when whiteflies showed up.
the process took me 10days-2wks, it can be done faster but i had time.
day 1,
clean and vacuum the room really well, i have carpet in this room as well.
many bugs like BMs can live off of dead plant material so vac the bejabbers out of the carpet and trim casing.
I clean with a bleach and lysol soloution
then i used volck oil(broad spectrum low toxicity and has an ovacide) in a gallon sprayer and sprayed the carpet really well and base boards, and trim. if you have any door/window or crown casings that may be in the room do those as well.
i sprayed walls 5ft up.
pay extra special attention to the trim, lots of bugs can easily live in the cracks and behind the casing and avoid direct contact with spray and bomb treatments.
next day bombed the room with a raid fogger type bomb, the kind that releases a gas so again this gets into tight cracks and crevasses.
day 6 I went in with forbid 4F and resprayed again as i did with volck oil,
forbid also has an ovacide.
day 10 i bombed the room with pylon TR.
all this time i kept the door closed.
day 12 I bombed the room with fungaflor to kill spores and prevent PM.
opened the door and aired out the room for 2-3 days.
i didn't see a house fly in there for 6 months,
it was only in the last 30days I had an outbreak of whiteflies
what i did last april has kept it bug free until recently when whiteflies showed up.
the process took me 10days-2wks, it can be done faster but i had time.
day 1,
clean and vacuum the room really well, i have carpet in this room as well.
many bugs like BMs can live off of dead plant material so vac the bejabbers out of the carpet and trim casing.
I clean with a bleach and lysol soloution
then i used volck oil(broad spectrum low toxicity and has an ovacide) in a gallon sprayer and sprayed the carpet really well and base boards, and trim. if you have any door/window or crown casings that may be in the room do those as well.
i sprayed walls 5ft up.
pay extra special attention to the trim, lots of bugs can easily live in the cracks and behind the casing and avoid direct contact with spray and bomb treatments.
next day bombed the room with a raid fogger type bomb, the kind that releases a gas so again this gets into tight cracks and crevasses.
day 6 I went in with forbid 4F and resprayed again as i did with volck oil,
forbid also has an ovacide.
day 10 i bombed the room with pylon TR.
all this time i kept the door closed.
day 12 I bombed the room with fungaflor to kill spores and prevent PM.
opened the door and aired out the room for 2-3 days.
i didn't see a house fly in there for 6 months,
it was only in the last 30days I had an outbreak of whiteflies
azamax is great for most pests. get a small 20 dollar bottle and see. its systemic so you add it to the res and let it do its thing. it will get rid of whiteflies really well and it has worked well on mites for me as well.
gonna be hard to suggest if you don't even know what these bugs were that yuou had in your grow. but a hot shot pest strip hanging in that bitch for a week outta do the trick.
You must live an area with no very many grows if it works for ya.. must be nice LOL. I live in an area that almost every other house in the city is growing indoors and out and of course us in the mountains. You go to the hydroshop and thats the first thing they try to give you so naturally everyone took it and now we have pests which are immune to all the AZA products which is why it was time to step up to the real deal. Like i said call yourself lucky haha
once an insect has been affected with Azadirachtin it can not breed again so pests can not become 'immune' to aza based products...or so they say. i only use pure neem oil and nothing (RA, FG & SM) has survived that has been exposed to it...
hydrophobic neem oils are a scam...most of the active ingredient has been removed...
