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How do prepare outdoor plot?

juuri

Member
Hello!
I'm planning my first grow next season, and i have quite few questions... I hope u guys can help me out or at least clear some things up for me. :)

I was wondering, how to know that my organic soil is fertile enough and if not what do i need to add..?
It is near the swamp, should i add perlit and mulch it to prevent drying out when the drought comes or u don't do it usually in swampy areas..?
 

BadTicket

ØG T®ipL3 ØG³
Moderator
Veteran
Soil bags usually have batch numbers with production dates, so there u go with the freshness. Nitrogen will decrease in soil bags over a long time, but the oldest have been from 'last' year that i've found. Should be no problem. We use chicken shit / sea weed pellets on our spots, readily available in gardening stores. And bat guano or some organic P/K for flowering. Slow release fertilizers, so get em in the ground come spring and they'll have some time to melt down before plants hit the ground. Add teas if you see or think your plants need more nutes.

I prefer spring time for taking out more nutes to the spots, but u can also do it after you've harvested your spots come fall time. Every two years or so you might wanna think about mixing some chalk in there too. Turn your spots once in the spring before sun starts to heat up the ground too much, that way you won't lose too much of the moisture there, also turn your spots after harvesting and let em breathe for the winter.

Swamps might be a bit too moist later in the season, might mold stuff up for you. I wouldn't do perlite, just because it's way too pricey here in Finland, and also the volume needed for it to make a real difference.. If you can score kilos of that stuff then yea, but if you need to air out yer soil, consider coco, leca, sand or whatever u can think off like that. Of course if u'r doing small spots with maybe autoflowers, i can see the perlite being a good choice.

And why are you posting in english, precious, eh?
 

Ickis

Active member
Veteran
And why are you posting in english, precious, eh?

Because if he doesn't he will only get replies from a few vikings.

There are a lot of nice swamp grows on the net.

Find areas where thistle grows. Thistle likes the same type of soil the marijuana does. You can just add some fertilizers during the grow season. Top of the soil broadcast type dry ferts are easy to carry in.

Also many berry bushes require very rich fertile soil that is also good for marijuana.
 

BadTicket

ØG T®ipL3 ØG³
Moderator
Veteran
4 sho, but y post on the other languages section then, precious, eh?

If you have links for northern swamp grows, show me. I bet it's good for southern, more dry spots, but u'd be pushing it here. Speaking of my local swamp lands there.
 

juuri

Member
And why are you posting in english, precious, eh?

Thank you for the quick reply, sir.
I posted this in to Finnish sub-forum because, I know have great active community here and u have approximately same conditions soil/latitude vise...
I speak little Finnish, or rather Finglish. But trying to writte in Finnish is beyond my abilities.

I rather do organic grow, so do you mix all the ferts(chicken shit, sea weed pellets and bat guano) in the ground in the spring as soon as the snow melts and ground is little softer to dig..?
Have u ever used nettle tea? what do u think of it and how is the results?

juuri
 

juuri

Member
Soil bags usually have batch numbers with production dates, so there u go with the freshness. Nitrogen will decrease in soil bags over a long time, but the oldest have been from 'last' year that i've found. Should be no problem.

Do you always use some bag soil to start with? And mix it wiht the soil thts already there? Bag soil is much looser tahn the organic soil, so its better for the root grow?


And if i use perlite and mulch the top, is it possibel that it gets too moist and i'll get root rot?
 

BadTicket

ØG T®ipL3 ØG³
Moderator
Veteran
Do you always use some bag soil to start with? And mix it wiht the soil thts already there? Bag soil is much looser tahn the organic soil, so its better for the root grow?


And if i use perlite and mulch the top, is it possibel that it gets too moist and i'll get root rot?

Yea pretty much every spot has some bought soil to go with the soil on the spot. Couple of spots are on rocky slopes that have no 'original' soil to em. Whatever extra soil you can haul to your spots, the better. Never had trouble with root rot outdoors, even tho 2012 was a very wet year.

Thank you for the quick reply, sir.
I posted this in to Finnish sub-forum because, I know have great active community here and u have approximately same conditions soil/latitude vise...
I speak little Finnish, or rather Finglish. But trying to writte in Finnish is beyond my abilities.

I rather do organic grow, so do you mix all the ferts(chicken shit, sea weed pellets and bat guano) in the ground in the spring as soon as the snow melts and ground is little softer to dig..?
Have u ever used nettle tea? what do u think of it and how is the results?

juuri

Yea, after the soil melts a bit and is workable. Guano takes a lot longer to activate in the soil than chicken poop pellets, but it's not a problem cause the plants won't need much P during veg. Made some nettle tea back in the day when i was broke and couldn't afford store nutes. It's just a bitch to carry and the smell is not very good either. It does work, but mostly just N so it's not a complete nute by any means, but it's ok stuff for vegging plants and/or if you have N deficiency.
 

juuri

Member
But when you prepare your plot, do you make a bed for each girl or u make one big plot and plant bunch of them together? For what i have read, when u plant them more separately u get better yield? is that true? More light for each girl and little more nutes..?
I mean its alot easier to plant a bunch of them in a big plot, but do i have to fert more then? Because this would be my first grow, and i would like to keep things simple as possible and not be result oriented... If i get little of something in the end it would be nice tho...
So, how do u guys sow them, and why? If it's too much trouble, please tell me what works best for you.

juuri
 
V

vuuduu

Always make "riuku" first on your planned spot. Some guys even go far as follow our beloved army serviceman on their camps and establish their spot on their hygiene plot.

Sorry saturday drunkness
 

BadTicket

ØG T®ipL3 ØG³
Moderator
Veteran
Lulz, it's 5 am and fuck yea i'm drunk and high, but the riuku* ain't bad advice, many a times i took a guerrilla crap near the spots :D If i can get personal here for a moment.. Especially if you'se a kebab eating mofo, pack some TP for your bung hole :D oR water, if you'se into that India stuff. Yo whatevs flows yo boat, that's what i'm saying.

But yea, that's a pretty wide ranged question juurimang.. We have spots for one plant and spots for 20 plants, and that's not even going to the differences between autoflowskis and early strains. But pretty much, according to me, and i'm not saying u can't do better, but this how i roll; auto flowskis can and should be direct sown to the spots in large numbers, maybe a 24-48 hr moisture treatment to the seeds before taking em out. (most) Early strains benefit from 2-3 weeks of pre-grow indoors, they seem to branch out much more given the head start, than direct sown plant or over the winter survivors.. The pre-grow will usually give you the benefit of taking sexed plants outdoors and not waste time with males if u'r just growing for sensi. We have males separate from chicks, so that gives room for a bit of selection if we want to make seeds widdem plants.



* For english readers: Riuku is a fast makeshift crapping spot, basically just a whittled tree or a fat branch that you sit on and crap to a hole in the ground that you can cover later. Organic and World War 2 proof 4 sho.
ensimmainen_riuku400.jpg

Editor note: This the best pic i could find, dude has the right idea, but u'r supposed pull down your pants before taking the doodoo, as per usual.
 

juuri

Member
(most) Early strains benefit from 2-3 weeks of pre-grow indoors, they seem to branch out much more given the head start, than direct sown plant or over the winter survivors.. The pre-grow will usually give you the benefit of taking sexed plants outdoors and not waste time with males if u'r just growing for sensi.

For the strain, i'm thinking of pehkutyphoon and purple tyhpoon...And maybe try out some AF strains... I know that pehkutyphoon is likely to be semi AF and purple thyphoonis is just an early girl...
But do they show sex just after 2-3weeks of pre grow? :jawdrop:
I tought that it takses much a lot longer time to show sex..

And Riuku hahha... Hope i don't have to do it in front of the girls..:p What reminds me of animals, deers and shit who can eat the girls up for good... How do u protect ur girls from them? Any good tips? Or u just Riuku all over th place haha and don't gover the holes up...?
 

juuri

Member
Back to the topic...

Have u guys ever peed into the bottle and burry it under the ground so only the top of the bottle is on surface to prevent wild animals to eat ur girls..? Does it work? Have u ever had problems with rabbits? Does the pee in the bottle work for rabbits too?
And because of the swampy environment I fear snails... I'v seen the can and the copper wire solution for that. So my question is which on has work the best for u? I think that the copper wire seems more stealthier
 

BadTicket

ØG T®ipL3 ØG³
Moderator
Veteran
Well now that you say it.. He just might be building a riukuaita, but everything looks like crap @ 5am after beers, ciders, mixers, wine, vodka and weird peach tasting drinks, not to mention the weed smoking, so my bad :D
We've had some piss bottles or cans around, but only in 2007 some deer or rabbits ate my lowryders, other than that, some big animal once split a big vegging plant in half, killed about 50% of it. Slugs we do have on our spots some yea, but they seem to have some other favorite plants in the nature cause they've never been a problem. Biggest war i've had, is with the god damn shield bugs. Really hard to get rid of em, and in large numbers they will have a very negative effect on plants. They suck sap from the stem and leave the stems open to viruses and diseases, often molding up the buds in later going ons. Mice have eaten some seeds from seed plants too, but there's usually plenty where they came from, so no worries.
 

juuri

Member
For the strain, i'm thinking of pehkutyphoon and purple tyhpoon...And maybe try out some AF strains... I know that pehkutyphoon is likely to be semi AF and purple thyphoonis is just an early girl...
But do they show sex just after 2-3weeks of pre grow? :jawdrop:
I tought that it takses much a lot longer time to show sex..

BT, I have looked at ur gallery and u have amazing thyphoons there... How much height will they gain with 2-3 weeks pre grow?
And do they show sex with in that time?
 
M

Merrywanna

You might wanna try Royal Nepal too. It produces better and is far superior to any typhoon that I've grown. This year we had one whole plot of AF's that was chewed off about 10-15cm from the ground. Whatever animal it was visited it about mid June or so and taste tested a few of the plants and then came back and ate pretty much the whole plot just when they were ready for harvest. All that was left were just a few of the lower buds. I think we ended up with only about 10 grams each. Since all our eggs weren't in one basket we had a laugh about the stoner moose/deer.

MW
 

juuri

Member
Thanks for advice MW, I will get some of those royal nepal seeds too... But do they finish in time?
And how is it with the mold?
Don't u use anything to prevent moose/deer damage at ur spots?
 

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