fuck! i am confused !

[woogille]

Yeah, he's talking about stunting the growth of your plants with too much light, and (comically) hinting at using a screen to block some of the light out.

You're trying to stuff 2lb's of bologna into a 1lb bag. If you want to start growing today and later on expand your garden all with the same 3590 COB then you need an LED driver than not only can push 77 Volts at 1.8 Amps, but you need one that is dimmable. I really think you'd end up running it @ ~50%, or so, when inside the PC case, otherwise I fear you'd just cook your plants.

so basically even a 100w in that kind of space is too much, or is it marginal and maybe a plant can take it ?

dimmable driver -
if i got it right -
lets say i take the 3590 [which is 150w at max] with a dimmable driver,
is it means that if i'd run it @ 50% it would make 75w, right ?
and by that i could basically still use the 3590 and not hurting the plant
is that what your'e saying ?

could you direct me please to dimmable, and non dimmable drivers that will go with the 3070 and 3590 ?

besides the led chip and a driver -
what else will i need for the project [light-wise] ?

 

[origen]

could you direct me please to dimmable, and non dimmable drivers that will go with the 3070 and 3590 ?

Like people have been saying, there aren't really many drivers designed to match the 3590 yet and I'm having trouble finding something inexpensive or matched well for the 3070.

I use a 12V 10A DC power supply to drive ten 10W COB LEDs connected in parallel pairs and limited to ~60% by 10 Ohm ballast resistors. It's not the most efficient setup, but it works and can be done for 25-50$ depending on what you have already available. The lower voltage is also safer and you really have to try to get shocked.

besides the led chip and a driver -
what else will i need for the project [light-wise] ?

A heatsink for the LEDS. This a good source for whatever size fits your needs.

 

[woogille]

ok - right now i really cant choose anything,
i basically still dont have enough money for the project, and im planning to move to a new appartment soon, so right now - im just making plans.
plus - i really put my eyes on that 3590 from two main reasons - it's stong and it's cheap.
the downside is that i just read now that leds have a very small and specific wavelenghts, and that red color is still quite important for stretching [and probably other colors has some importance too], plus it will be hard, and expensive, to find a proper driver [?]


so putting that chip aside,
lets get back for a sec to my first plan -
cree xpe multi chip -
2 - 60w panels - 1 for veg, 1 for flower
1 - 30w panel for both - veg and flower.

i want to hear what you people think of my design
in terms of colors [ - did i chose the right power for each color, did i chose the right colors ] ?
and in terms of position of the colors - you'll see in the pics

the setup will be like so -

60w - flower red - 14pc x3w=42w
natural white - 3pc x3w=9w
warm white - 3pc x3w=9w

30w - constant warm white - 3pc x3w=9w
natural white - 1pc x3w=3w
green - 2pc x3w=6w
yellow - 1pc x3w=3w
cold white - 3pc x3w=9w

60w - veg cold white - 9pc x3w=27w
natural white - 3pc x3w=9w
blue - 8pc x3w=24w

vegetation -
blue - 24w
cold white - 36w
natural white - 12w
green - 6w
yellow - 3w
warm white - 9w

flowering -
red - 42w
warm white - 18w
natural white - 12w
green - 6w
yellow - 3w
cold white - 9w
​

i cant add more than 5 pics so ill have them in links - sorry in advence.
[ the yellow is actually amber - 585-595 nm ]

30w mix panel - 1
30w mix panel - 2
30w mix panel - 3
30w mix panel - 4
30w mix panel - 5
30w mix panel - 6
30w mix panel - 7

60w veg panel - 1
60w veg panel - 2
60w veg panel - 3
60w veg panel - 4
60w veg panel - 5
60w veg panel - 6
60w veg panel - 7

60w flower panel - 1
60w flower panel - 2
60w flower panel - 3
60w flower panel - 4
60w flower panel - 5
60w flower panel - 6


thanks in advence, and sorry again :]

 

[habeeb]

^ my opinion.. simplify the setup

flower, red and WW
veg, 4k or 4,500k

constant, not sure what that means, clones and moms? same as veg color though..


nothing to worry on the big cree chips. if they have high cri, buy them the 2700k, and be done. if not, buy the 3000k, and add some red if you like. that simple

 

[habeeb]

Going over 100W/sqf with LEDS will require shading nets, like the one used on the greenhouses

AMEN .. haha

I was using 37 watts a square foot, and on my way to half the power of a bulb.. next chips would for sure hit the half way point, possible a little more then half

I would assume, you wouldn't want to push 60 watts a square foot right now.

 

[woogille]

constant, not sure what that means, clones and moms? same as veg color though..
]/QUOTE]

what i mean is that -
the veg panel will be active during veg + the constant,
and the flower panel will be active during flower + the constant,
the constant always stays - giving me total of 90W

so basically what you say is - drop all the other colors and 2700k+red for flower, and 4000k/4500k for veg ?
ok, ok


another inersting thing i have just seen - thought maybe you could shed some light in -
thoes cheap chinese cobs again -
in the specifications they say for a 100w cob it has -
11000lm [more than the cree 3050]
72 cri [not sure about the cree]
and they costs like 1/10th of the price,
so basically why not choosing them ?
whats the big difference after all ?

 

[habeeb]

^ difference is there shit.. no one can match cree.. basically.

with the constant.. I wouldn't do it.. there's veg and there's flower.. there's no in-between. if you had to.. I would pick flower color, as veg plants can do flower spectrum, flower plants can't do veg spectrum.. they can, but I wouldn't.. been there, done that. lesson learned to share. plants no like 6500k and I think it was 5500k..

keep it simple man, relax, breathe. it's just a plant, and once you build the lamp, it's obsolete. think of them like computers.. dated shit the day you buy it.

you seem to be twisting your head for no reason.. I run 11 led lamps currently ( 3 bought, 8 built ), and have used many many past ones.. I'm trying to help here. trust me.. I've spent thousands wanting to know, and now I do, I can't say I know everything, but I'm a quick learner. and I have high intuition, which I would like to say I use.. go check oneshots threads and see what I said about the outcome of the lamps he was testing.......


by 2700k , I mean a high cri 2700k color.. it has more red in them, some more cyan I believe but more red in a white chip.. the future is white chips.. F all these colors

 

[woogille]

first of all
thanks a lot man -
i really appriciate your help and sharing of knowledge

now -

^ difference is there shit.. no one can match cree.. basically.

not even philips or the other high brands ?

with the constant.. I wouldn't do it.. there's veg and there's flower.. there's no in-between. if you had to.. I would pick flower color, as veg plants can do flower spectrum, flower plants can't do veg spectrum.. they can, but I wouldn't.. been there, done that. lesson learned to share. plants no like 6500k and I think it was 5500k..

look - i planned this before i knew about the 3590/3070,
and i saw that 60w multi chip and i thought it was cool, but 60w wouldnt be enough
so i thought to aim for 90,
but now actually your setup makes more sense.

now - is 2700k only - really enough for flowering ?
i have read that the reds are important to because they make the plant stretch more [or less], which - i dont really know what is better [?]
but lets put it like that - whats the best for the plant during flower -
2700k alone ?
2700k + red [and if yes how many of each] ?
2700k + NW + red [and where exactly does the NW takes place] ?

same questions goes for veg -
6500k alone ?
6500k + blue ?
what about uv and ir ?
and again - where does the NW takes place in all of that mess ?

one last question [for now]
which of cree's chips is the best at the moment ?
how is the xpe (the one i showed) vs. cxa ?



thanks again friends !
:]

 

[WeedIsGod]

not even philips or the other high brands ?

Philips is good. So is Bridgelux.

is 2700k only really enough for flowering ?

Yes.

i have read that the reds are important

Red helps flowering. There is Red light in 2700K. The lower the CCT the more Red there is within the spectrum. Red light will help produce big, fat colas.

whats the best for the plant during flower

There is no best. It doesn't exist. Based off what I, as well as others, have done and accomplished, I recommend 2700K alone OR 3000K with Red (6 x 3000K, 1 x 630nm, 1 x 660nm) I like the idea of sourcing Red light from Red LED's. They are more efficient than Blue pumped Red phosphor.

same questions goes for veg

Again, there is no best. Neutral White is 4500K. I recommend 4000K-6500K for veg. That's a range. Any LED with a CCT between 4000K and 6500K will veg plants very, very well. The higher the CCT, the more Blue output, the shorter the internode distance will be on your plants.

one last question [for now]
which of cree's chips is the best at the moment ?
how is the xpe (the one i showed) vs. cxa ?

Both are very good for the money and will grow excellent herb.

 

[habeeb]

first of all
thanks a lot man -
i really appriciate your help and sharing of knowledge

now -

not even philips or the other high brands ?


look - i planned this before i knew about the 3590/3070,
and i saw that 60w multi chip and i thought it was cool, but 60w wouldnt be enough
so i thought to aim for 90,
but now actually your setup makes more sense.

now - is 2700k only - really enough for flowering ?
i have read that the reds are important to because they make the plant stretch more [or less], which - i dont really know what is better [?]
but lets put it like that - whats the best for the plant during flower -
2700k alone ?
2700k + red [and if yes how many of each] ?
2700k + NW + red [and where exactly does the NW takes place] ?

same questions goes for veg -
6500k alone ?
6500k + blue ?
what about uv and ir ?
and again - where does the NW takes place in all of that mess ?

one last question [for now]
which of cree's chips is the best at the moment ?
how is the xpe (the one i showed) vs. cxa ?



thanks again friends !
:]

no worries.. I'm blunt, but I don't waste time.. I have been called, and I know I am... a perfectionist ( just had a talk for 5 min. trying to sort out the sequencing structure on perfectionism... haha )

here's how the game works.. Philips brings something out, cree smashes it. or how it's been. who knows the future, I don't. but even comparing lately, nothing Philips has done interested me. remember, once again, rule one. led is obsolete day you buy it... this game changes so quick, there is so much money being poured into led right now, it's crazy.. the race is on for the company to lead, and take over, and no one is giving this up anytime soon, which is good for us consumers.. let them fight, we profit.. basically there competing to have the highest lumen led.. all good things for us.. first was the development with cool whites.. no one wants cool whites, they want warm white.. well good for us. it means more red, which is hard for them.. good for us they develop it. it just so happens plants love red, and that makes us happy. everyone is happy, people get big paychecks I'm assuming, we get fat buds, we get less electric... we all win is the end game!!!

right now, Philips has some interesting designs using multiple led ( such as the K series ) , which cree does not have, but it really doesn't matter.. they all have cobbs which are getting popular as hell. I'm not so sure it's the way to go honestly, as the problem with any led is having to much power in such a small space.. how do you deal with it? raise the lamp up.. guess what? you just lost lumens ( AKA power you input to run it ) making it efficient.. I've always seen LED's as a blanket of little emitters over the whole grow.. who knows though. I do see cobb also as a competitor, but I've always envisioned it in a reflector to spread the light more evenly.. maybe smaller cobb with many of them..

the main draw back of led was that.. a bulb has a reflector making the light more eeven throughout the room.. not led .. not yet.. that is the major drawback.. no one has designed a very efficient setup to run led.. which is the only way I know is many many led, all over the canopy.. I even have a cobb system, and I can tell you, high density in the middle, shit on the outer edges...

I might not concern yourself too much with this, as I am a perfectionist. cobbs do work.. they work fine.. it's just so much power in one small space doesn't match a spread out system,, never will I believe. shit, in the future, it might not matter, we might have such high output chips, you dazzle your plants with many many cobb... I don't know it all yet

I haven't run numbers, but I don't think the philips cobb outperforms the cree. honetly, I'm waiting to see there new single emitter, as there XM-L2 is a powerhouse, and superstar as far as lighting is concerned.. so I'm really concerned about that, a lot has been happening with the cobb, as it's "new" to led panels, so that's why there's so much attention on them, also basically you can build a system for less money.. but not necessarily better performance..

rule number two, more power, more loss. just because you can run a cobb at 100 watts, doesn't mean you want to.. basically you want to usually run them 1/3 the power to get the most from them, it will cost more, and more led to buy, but you get better power.. 10 xm-l2 running 1 watt, vs. 1 xm-l2 running 10 watts... the winner is the 10 of them.. at 10 times the price, which is why to strike a balance, run at 1/3.. you don't have to.. but if you want mac performance, you run them lower then full capacity.




sorry off topic...


yes, 2700k is enough.. is it the best? not sure.. but it works, as I had a 3000k system, and it was awesome. I switched some 2700k chips on it and now I have more red.. high cri / warm whites rock ( better image, and more red.. what's not to like?

what's the best.. depends what you want. like paying around, like simplicity.. that's how you figure out the best..

with reds... all you need to know, is flowering is red oriented..


NW.. I say no to neutral whites.. it was thought we needed them for blue.. you don't.. so why use neutral white.. do you like less red in your flowering? I don't. NW was also made famous by a user named knna long ago, he said they were the Goldilocks for led chips.. I think they are in veg right now.. in flower? no


veg. you don't need 6500k.. you can use it though. I'm finding I like 400k maybe even 4500k ( have to test that ) as it has all the blue you need, I'm not going to say 6500k won't grow faster, as I'm not sure.. I haven't reached a end all test in veg, but you don't need 6500k in veg.. and honestly I just think it's too blue, while cutting out a lot of red.. once again I don't know everything, I'm just telling you what I've seen. also 6500k has a worse color render then NW..

6500k and blue.. no way do you need to do that.

IR / UV.. don't even know, haven't tested, and won't be as.... well I can't tell you.


NW. I love it for veg, once again. not sure I like WW in veg, and not sure I like CW in veg.. which is why I settled in NW region ( 4000k and want to test 4500k, for a tad more blue )

there is no best chip, as all are different, XM-l2 is a single emitter, cobbs push more power though them.. I've never seen a cobb data run at low power, it might have very high lumen per watt, but then it would be super expensive. If I had to pick, I would go with a high cri cobb system layout for ease and bigger area. for smaller area I would go with xm-l2 layout.. there is not a one size fits all.. it's also up to preference / following your heart / doing what seems cool / what you naturally float toward..

xpe is a dated chip, single emitter . cxa is a cobb.. can never be compared. xpe to xp-e2? xp-e2, higher you drive better the performance.

well it's up to you man, the fun thing is building what you like, so build what you like, forgot all I say, and just know, you ask 100 people, you'll get 10 different answers.. maybe 100 different combinations ( as in some will agree with some thing, others not ) making basically 100 different answers.

I just make some led panels, buy some led panels, and grow pot plants... I'm no scientists.. and would be insulted if I ever got to that title... hahaha



ENJOY, have fun. hopefully I brought you a little up to speed on LED, there is still much I don't know though, I can't do complicated.

 

[woogille]

There is no best. It doesn't exist. Based off what I, as well as others, have done and accomplished, I recommend 2700K alone OR 3000K with Red (6 x 3000K, 1 x 630nm, 1 x 660nm) I like the idea of sourcing Red light from Red LED's. They are more efficient than Blue pumped Red phosphor.

from that i can understand that in 2700k there is a bit more red than in 3000k ?
how many watts is each one of the 6x3000k ?
same for the reds ?
assuming that we are talking about a space of a full tower pc, maybe a bit bigger.

Again, there is no best. Neutral White is 4500K. I recommend 4000K-6500K for veg. That's a range. Any LED with a CCT between 4000K and 6500K will veg plants very, very well. The higher the CCT, the more Blue output, the shorter the internode distance will be on your plants.
Both are very good for the money and will grow excellent herb.

the problem is i couldnt find a cree chip with a range of white like this [4000k-6500k],
they all come in an exact spot [like 6500k period.]
so what - am i gonna need two seperate chips ? one for 4000k and one for 6500k ?

whats CCT ?

so right now im thinking - 100w 3000k [ plus some reds ] - for flowering
and another 2x50w 4000k-6500k chips for veg ?

could you reccomend me on a chip like that [high CCT, range of color temp 4000-6500] ?



and again thanks a lot !
really !
thanks :]

 

[woogille]

no worries.. I'm blunt, but I don't waste time.. I have been called, and I know I am... a perfectionist ( just had a talk for 5 min. trying to sort out the sequencing structure on perfectionism... haha )

here's how the game works.. Philips brings something out, cree smashes it. or how it's been. who knows the future, I don't. but even comparing lately, nothing Philips has done interested me. remember, once again, rule one. led is obsolete day you buy it... this game changes so quick, there is so much money being poured into led right now, it's crazy.. the race is on for the company to lead, and take over, and no one is giving this up anytime soon, which is good for us consumers.. let them fight, we profit.. basically there competing to have the highest lumen led.. all good things for us.. first was the development with cool whites.. no one wants cool whites, they want warm white.. well good for us. it means more red, which is hard for them.. good for us they develop it. it just so happens plants love red, and that makes us happy. everyone is happy, people get big paychecks I'm assuming, we get fat buds, we get less electric... we all win is the end game!!!

right now, Philips has some interesting designs using multiple led ( such as the K series ) , which cree does not have, but it really doesn't matter.. they all have cobbs which are getting popular as hell. I'm not so sure it's the way to go honestly, as the problem with any led is having to much power in such a small space.. how do you deal with it? raise the lamp up.. guess what? you just lost lumens ( AKA power you input to run it ) making it efficient.. I've always seen LED's as a blanket of little emitters over the whole grow.. who knows though. I do see cobb also as a competitor, but I've always envisioned it in a reflector to spread the light more evenly.. maybe smaller cobb with many of them..

the main draw back of led was that.. a bulb has a reflector making the light more eeven throughout the room.. not led .. not yet.. that is the major drawback.. no one has designed a very efficient setup to run led.. which is the only way I know is many many led, all over the canopy.. I even have a cobb system, and I can tell you, high density in the middle, shit on the outer edges...

I might not concern yourself too much with this, as I am a perfectionist. cobbs do work.. they work fine.. it's just so much power in one small space doesn't match a spread out system,, never will I believe. shit, in the future, it might not matter, we might have such high output chips, you dazzle your plants with many many cobb... I don't know it all yet

I haven't run numbers, but I don't think the philips cobb outperforms the cree. honetly, I'm waiting to see there new single emitter, as there XM-L2 is a powerhouse, and superstar as far as lighting is concerned.. so I'm really concerned about that, a lot has been happening with the cobb, as it's "new" to led panels, so that's why there's so much attention on them, also basically you can build a system for less money.. but not necessarily better performance..

rule number two, more power, more loss. just because you can run a cobb at 100 watts, doesn't mean you want to.. basically you want to usually run them 1/3 the power to get the most from them, it will cost more, and more led to buy, but you get better power.. 10 xm-l2 running 1 watt, vs. 1 xm-l2 running 10 watts... the winner is the 10 of them.. at 10 times the price, which is why to strike a balance, run at 1/3.. you don't have to.. but if you want mac performance, you run them lower then full capacity.




sorry off topic...


yes, 2700k is enough.. is it the best? not sure.. but it works, as I had a 3000k system, and it was awesome. I switched some 2700k chips on it and now I have more red.. high cri / warm whites rock ( better image, and more red.. what's not to like?

what's the best.. depends what you want. like paying around, like simplicity.. that's how you figure out the best..

with reds... all you need to know, is flowering is red oriented..
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=44751&pictureid=1130100&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

NW.. I say no to neutral whites.. it was thought we needed them for blue.. you don't.. so why use neutral white.. do you like less red in your flowering? I don't. NW was also made famous by a user named knna long ago, he said they were the Goldilocks for led chips.. I think they are in veg right now.. in flower? no


veg. you don't need 6500k.. you can use it though. I'm finding I like 400k maybe even 4500k ( have to test that ) as it has all the blue you need, I'm not going to say 6500k won't grow faster, as I'm not sure.. I haven't reached a end all test in veg, but you don't need 6500k in veg.. and honestly I just think it's too blue, while cutting out a lot of red.. once again I don't know everything, I'm just telling you what I've seen. also 6500k has a worse color render then NW..

6500k and blue.. no way do you need to do that.

IR / UV.. don't even know, haven't tested, and won't be as.... well I can't tell you.


NW. I love it for veg, once again. not sure I like WW in veg, and not sure I like CW in veg.. which is why I settled in NW region ( 4000k and want to test 4500k, for a tad more blue )

there is no best chip, as all are different, XM-l2 is a single emitter, cobbs push more power though them.. I've never seen a cobb data run at low power, it might have very high lumen per watt, but then it would be super expensive. If I had to pick, I would go with a high cri cobb system layout for ease and bigger area. for smaller area I would go with xm-l2 layout.. there is not a one size fits all.. it's also up to preference / following your heart / doing what seems cool / what you naturally float toward..

xpe is a dated chip, single emitter . cxa is a cobb.. can never be compared. xpe to xp-e2? xp-e2, higher you drive better the performance.

well it's up to you man, the fun thing is building what you like, so build what you like, forgot all I say, and just know, you ask 100 people, you'll get 10 different answers.. maybe 100 different combinations ( as in some will agree with some thing, others not ) making basically 100 different answers.

I just make some led panels, buy some led panels, and grow pot plants... I'm no scientists.. and would be insulted if I ever got to that title... hahaha



ENJOY, have fun. hopefully I brought you a little up to speed on LED, there is still much I don't know though, I can't do complicated.

allright man
great piece of info
thanks,


just out of curiousity - baiscally i better go for more low watts leds, running at 1/2-1/3 power, not only for better performence, but also for better coverage right ?
or is it only better coverage ?



btw
how is the cxa2011 ?
its the only one of CXA series that i can find on ebay.

 

[Smoking Lamp]

thats weird, in newark they say [about the 3070] that its 7390lm, while in cree's website it says its 11000 or so. also they didnt wrote how many watts .

smoking lamp - what do you mean - the 3590 are not as efficient as the 3070 ?
what is moolah ?
im sorry for my lack of knowledge in electricity, but so
what will happen in the future that will make the 3590 'better' [or whatever] ?
and when will that happen ?

Sorry for my slang, moolah is just a word for: money, cash, currency.

So Newark's rating is probably what is referred to as Test Forward Voltage sometimes, where the lumen output is the most per watt @ a certain current below max and Cree's rating is the absolute max output of the chip, where the lumens are significantly decreased per watt above a certain wattage.

I have the data sheets in PDF and will copy the graphs for both chips.


Bigger chips are usually less efficient than smaller chips, meaning they usually put out less lumens per watt at a given current, but NOT all.

The general rule of thumb is that smaller chips = more efficient but less overall lumen output.

Bigger chips might be less efficient but they make them with more overall lumen output....

So you just have to balance the trade-off, between size and efficiency.

 

[Smoking Lamp]

Spectrums are like opinions every has them. I do believe in some 3500-4000k supplementation in flower but mainly during veg. These provide good spectrums in ranges that most people just write off as not being used, although I like 490-560+, some it is crucial for vitamin building which is just a precursor.

But WW all the way in flower [again maybe 5-15% overall in 3500k] and UV during mid-day. 730nm with lights out.

My veg has been strictly 2700K and 4000k in a 1:1 ratio, I like the spectrum, good blue, but not too much and plenty of red below 630 or right around.

 

[Smoking Lamp]

Lots of quality grows with Bridgelux Vero's.

Sure, some say they aren't top of the line, but the lower wattage Vero's have some of the best pricing per watt in the "consumer" end market. I didn't say high end.

If nichia would make diodes for the market, I would be all over those like fat girls and cupcakes.

 

[woogille]

arent the CRI is what actually important to us growers ?
higher cri - happier plant , right ?

 

[habeeb]

allright man
great piece of info
thanks,


just out of curiousity - baiscally i better go for more low watts leds, running at 1/2-1/3 power, not only for better performence, but also for better coverage right ?
or is it only better coverage ?



btw
how is the cxa2011 ?
its the only one of CXA series that i can find on ebay.

my pleasure

exactly. better performance, and at the same time better coverage. if running cobbs though.. more is going to cost.. but your choice at the end of the day.. just remember the rule. higher means lower.. haha. here's an example.. it just shows lumens per watt, see as you go up in power you lose lumen per watt.. your trying to find a good balance of emitters used and light output.. like one guy came on here telling us how his friend used 10 watts through the emitter.. I was like wow.. you made it less efficient then a t5 now... see there's really no point when you hit that I feel, led is suppose to be cutting edge, performance.. not shitter then previous tech.. my opnion



what size area you doing? here has all cree, nearly all..

let me know, as I know you were talking about some transition light stuff.. didn't read the pages..

arent the CRI is what actually important to us growers ?
higher cri - happier plant , right ?

I guess this is a yes and no.. high cri have more blue, so yes. but never thought of as a veg light, as there usually 3000k or 2700k color.. I guess they would work for either, actually maybe simplifying process to one color throughout grow.. no clue though as I've never personally tested..



I want to know your setup, to understand better.. I have a boat load of Xm-L / Xm-L2 sitting around.....



is the name like woogllie booglie? haha

 

[Smoking Lamp]

CRI is based on a monochramatic scale starting at 555nm which is supposedly where the eye sees best or some shit.

So as it goes to the right [red] they can have higher cri but with lower intensity.

CRI by itself in my opinion is bullshit. Its all based on what eye sees. It does not take into account intensity or spectrum. Plants are NOT using lux exclusively [although much of visible light falls within the PAR spectrum], the plants are using PAR [and some]. I am color blind, CRI means diddly to me.......and always will unfortunately.

and CRI can only be compared to similar spectrums. i.e you can't compare the CRI of 3000k and 2700k and consider them reliable comparisons.

 

[habeeb]

"So as it goes to the right [red] they can have higher cri but with lower intensity"

lower intensity is from red ( low energy source ) which makes it look lower, but in actuality, the energy is just transferred, nothing lost, only shifted to the red region


this is why looking at any led, I look at the graphs.. unfortunately I don't own a spectrophotometer.. thought about it, but couldn't justify the price for how few uses it would get.. I tried to get someone to test a few colors foe me, but never ended up happening... would have loved to share it with you guys


from what i gather looking at colors and spectrum.. the lower kelvin, more red ???

 

[woogille]

I want to know your setup, to understand better.. I have a boat load of Xm-L / Xm-L2 sitting around.....

well, still no setup mate.
im about to move out from my parants house to a new appartment very soon, and right now i have nothing. nothing but plans.
for the grow space i thought at first about something stealthy and small like pc tower or a big speaker box, but now i am really begining to think to go a bit bigger - something like a small closet - maybe - 1m-1.5m[H], 75cm[W], 60cm[D] ???
i really dont know yet, ill have to see after ill move in, as it depends in a lot of things, but how does that space sounds ?
im guessing 2 plants in this cabinet, with nice lst skills, and about 200w-250w of light should give me at least 150g right ?

damn i really dont know,
cuz you see - this moving out thing - might take a month or so, maybe even more, and im kinda eager to start growing -
i just finished a bagseed outdoor guerrilla, which turned out as a bummer man, i had a really nice and big plant who began flowering and one day when i came to water her (and 2 other smaller girls) i saw this tractor plowing the field - he smashed everything, i was going there every morning even if i didnt had to water her, just for the running, and i got so depressed that i didnt ran for 2 week after it happened,
than i just went for my running again and i went to the plot to take some things i left there, and i saw that a little tiny piece of plant had survived,
by than i already sprouted 2 more seeds at home, and i moved them to there later,
long story short - i ended up with 3 tiny plants - all turned out hermi's - maybe 13g total, crap smoke, although i have smoked worse, and i just finished it all up the other day.
so i thought - maybe in the meantime when im still here with my mom and pop ill get one of thoes pc cases and start growing,
but it turns out that it comes down to a medium weight sack of moolah ;]
that i really need right now,

so, i think im heading more towards the moving out first, and than have a proper grow, with a proper cabinet for proper plants with proper yields.
and in the meantime ill have to get back to just buying weed.
i fucken hate paying weed - fucken 'ilegal' bullshite.

is the name like woogllie booglie? haha

exactly !
the l is silent.