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Dwc ph ?

frankobud

Member
When your ph goes up do you put in ph down or do you change the water? My ph has been going up it went from 6.4 to 6.6
 

zamzia

Active member
Veteran
I usually let mine RDWC drift between 5.5-7 before adjusting. Having said that, when I change the rez out and put fresh in at 5.5 it's usually only got up to 6.5 before the next change.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
Keep your pH in a range of 5.8 - 6.2. If the plants are using lots of nutrients then you can lower the pH by adding back up to 30% of your nute formula. If your pH rises, set your pH to 5.8 with pH down and when it goes to 6.2 adjust it back down to 5.8. Change out the system every 14 days.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
This is what you'll hear all over the net. For DWC/NFT/SWC and any other method where the roots are directly in the res or nute solution... This is incorrect information.

When you compare this vs. starting at 5.2 and allowing the pH swing up to 6.0 or 6.1 before dropping back down... you'll see shorter, stockier plants that yield more and are slightly more potent.

5.8.6.2 is better for drip through a medium like rockwool or clay pebbles, perlite, coco... that kind of stuff. You get the pH swing in reverse as the medium dries out and the nute concentration goes up... pushing the pH down.

In DWC you need to allow the pH swing to happen in the res over the course of a few days.

Keep it Clean! :D

Not according to my techniques. Only way I can set any hydro to 5.2 is if I'm using rockwool as a medium because rockwool is at a higher pH inside the medium. When I set my RDWC to 5.2, I get crazy lockouts. Even going down to 5.6 in RDWC give me lockouts. So you are saying that I would yield more if I took my RDWC to 5.2? That is a very bold claim when I get close to a gram per watt already. Do you have any pictures or data to prove what you are saying because I have years of it? I'd love to see some proof of these statements in RDWC systems. Thats statement is just crazy to me. If you set your pH at 5.2 and it doesn't reach 5.8 within a few days, you will have problems with more sensitive strains. It's even possible that it could take over a week to reach 5.8 with that technique as well depending on many variables. If you read this sticky in the infirmary by MynameStitch:

The Complete Guide to Sick Plants, pH and Pest troubles!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688


You will see that:

"Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7"

and

Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3

So if you stay that low for too long, you will see many lockouts occur. I don't see any lockouts occur personally in the range of 5.8 - 6.2 and I've been running this range for well over 10 years in hydro.
 
Last edited:
When your ph goes up do you put in ph down or do you change the water? My ph has been going up it went from 6.4 to 6.6

General rule is


If your EC is Rising and the PH is Dropping = add less nutes.
If your PH is Rising and your EC is Dropping = add more nutes.
If your EC is Stable and your PH is Rising slowly =sweetspot.

@thecleangame
5.2 is far to low in hydro imho......
 

overbudjet

Active member
Veteran
I run my rez between 5.3~ 6.0 in a Bio-Uc system (i use beneficial) take around a week for full swing .Having good result since 3 year's from that :)
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
This is going to come down to the nutrient profile you're using... most likely.

Some nutrients are so out of whack for cannabis, the only way to grow decent stuff is to maintain a steady pH that locks out excess or allows extra uptake of certain elements.

Well if you don't know what nutrients a person is using how can you suggest to run a 5.2 pH? Even you say:
"Some nutrients are so out of whack for cannabis, the only way to grow decent stuff is to maintain a steady pH that locks out excess or allows extra uptake of certain elements."

I think it's obvious that if that's true their pH would have to be above 5.7 where you start to have mg lockouts.

So then you can agree that some growers will have poor results if they set their pH to 5.2 or 5.3 if they aren't using the right brand nutrient. I can tell you with my experience in RDWC for the past few years, I run General Hydro Flora Series and the pH that you are recomending didn't work for me. There were lockouts and the plants did not do well until i raised the pH to 5.8. I'm not doubting your experience but it would be nice to post pictures with what you are saying. You don't have many pictures in your albums for me to see anything about what you are saying.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
You're using GH flora and can't go below 5.6 in RWDC without issues... you need to check your setup as you have something messing with your nutes. That's not how GH nutes behave in a DWC or RDWC setup at all. *shrug*

You're using R/O water... right
? 'Cause if you're not then whatever your setup does with nutes isn't really helpful to other people, they don't use your water.

For the new growers out there... be mindful of giving advice when your experience pool is limited to one location or only a couple years of growing. This is an amazingly complex industry with a lot of variables and it often takes a few years to fully realize most of what that can entail. :)

Keep it Clean! :D

Never used RO water but been growing hydro since 1999 in many locations in different areas. Maybe it has something to do with RO water but a test would have to be done to figure that out. My water is always less than 100 TDS. All I can really say is 5.8-6.2 has always been amazing to me:
picture.php
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
Then whatever is in your water is what's causing your pH issues.

Please stop telling people to use 5.6 in DWC or RDWC... unless they live down the block from you. Newbies are not using your water and you're confusing them.

Keep it Clean! :D

Listen, most newbies aren't using RO. Most newbies are using water similar to mine because I use tap water in multiple areas in different states. I have ran hydro since 1999 with no problems unless I lower my pH like you state. I never tell anyone to use 5.6 so you are mistaken. I tell everyone 5.8 - 6.2. Like I said before, you stated that depending on the brand of nutrients and I've used many brands. You got any data or pictures to add to this or just your word. I mean I got plenty of data that shows how my plants can barely even eat at 5.7 and stop eating at 5.6 while the plants turn yellow until I raise the pH to 5.8. I'd love to see some information that you have.
 
Everyone's setup is different,
Everyone's environment is different,
Everyone's nutrients are different,
Everyone's water is different,
Everyone's ec pen and ph pen is different

@ the clean game, your method is correct, just worries me that the newbs will set ph at 5.2 and not understand..

Generally if set at 5.8 people that don't understand what the plant is doing will be safe, that's why it's recommended...
 

frankobud

Member
Thanks everybody it gives me a good idea on when to add nutes and when to add ph down.
I've got a couple extra and I'm going to run one at 5.2 and one at 5.8 see. They are super lemon haze clones . I'm using the technaflora line for nutes see what happens.
I take pics and put them up.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
Thanks everybody it gives me a good idea on when to add nutes and when to add ph down.
I've got a couple extra and I'm going to run one at 5.2 and one at 5.8 see. They are super lemon haze clones . I'm using the technaflora line for nutes see what happens.
I take pics and put them up.

Let us know what happens! Would love to know!
 
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