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pH issue - suggestions needed

i'd mentioned this issue in another thread, and it's gotten worse so i figured i'd throw it out in the open

i'm watching my bud's growing (& trying to learn at the same time)

he transplanted his plants into 5 gal buckets adding FoxFarm's Happy Frog soil and had low pH readings since.

1st, soil was heavy with wood chips, and i suspect that's a contributing factor to the low pH issue that he's had since day one

he's added a ton of fast acting lime (pennington brand) and thought he'd gotten it to an acceptable level (approx 6.4), reading it over 4 days.

Then, lLast week, over a 3-4 day period, a number of leaves (both lower and mid-level leaves with one or two at top , (plant is a sativa at 60 days flowering, and looks like maybe 4-5 weeks more).

I helped him do some research reading everyone's sick plant guides and it looked like calcium deficiency. He's been running RO'd water, and using foxfarm liquid nutes (GroBig, Tiger Bloom & Big Bloom). Found that calcium locks out below 6.4 pH so we check pH and found it at 5.5. Luckily, he aerates his water pretty heavily (36-48 hours) and according to his sources, oxygenated water helps "buffer" pH issues, so assuming that is correct, that would help explain how they've survived low pH up to now

One plant had a high number of leaves turning yellow and actually dropped about 17 larges leaves overnite. This was the one plant he hadn't transplanted, and when we scraped away some of the top layer of soil, found heavy mass of roots maybe 1/4" below the surface, so i assume that plant is root bound.

on the leaves, approx 30% just looked like they "bleached" yellow, a pale green first, then pale yellow, but the bleaching was even across the whole leaf, ie no green veins, no brown spots at edges etc,, like i said just an even pale pale green turning to yellow, evenly across the leaf. I'd post pix but am afraid to, ie the metadata on images, etc).

The rest of the leaves, turn brown/yellow at the edges, with brown spots, one spot at each serrated tooth.

Even thought that plant had a heavy covering of lime on top, today, he added about half of a 10 oz paper cup of the fast acting lime across the top of the worst plant, wet it, waited 10 minutes for the lime to soften / dissolve or whatever, then gave the plant enough fresh water (pH 7.09) to give him some run-off. Run-off showed 5.89 pH). So he gave it some more water, thinking the run off was just the water at the bottom of the pot from yesterday;s feed. 2nd run-off still showed 5.88 pH.

I actually took some of the lime, and to test that it was raising the pH, measured some fresh filtered water, pH was 6.46, and with about 8 oz in a paper cup, added two heavy table spoons of the lime, and it did raise the pH to 7.56

so the question: WHAT CAN CAUSE SOIL TO KEEP DROPPING IT'S PH?

My bud is thinking to flush it tomorrow with real high pH water, some along the lines of 8.0

again, any experience, suggestions on this are appreciated

tks in advance
 

Smökë2

New member
I only water with 6.2 ph in my soil and have never had any issues.. I dont test my run off because I know what im watering with.. sounds more like deficiencies to me than bad ph..
 

frankobud

Member
I've been having the same problem last night did a flush. The first 7 gallons of high ph water didn't change anything then after 7 it started to go down slowly it took another 10 gallons to get me to a ph of 6.7 then put 1 gallon of light nutrient mix.
Checked the plant this morning and the color is coming back .im using ocean forest, promix and perilite never had a problem the only thing different is I've been putting about 1 inch layer of bark mulch on top and i see you said that there were allot of wood chips so I wonder if this is the problem. I put a pic of the plant is it anything like yours
 
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=49633&pictureid=1158710View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=46040&pictureid=1078454View Image I've been having the same problem last night did a flush. The first 7 gallons of high ph water didn't change anything then after 7 it started to go down slowly it took another 10 gallons to get me to a ph of 6.7 then put 1 gallon of light nutrient mix.
Checked the plant this morning and the color is coming back .im using ocean forest, promix and perilite never had a problem the only thing different is I've been putting about 1 inch layer of bark mulch on top and i see you said that there were allot of wood chips so I wonder if this is the problem. I put a pic of the plant is it anything like yours

frank - tks for posting those shots - they're identical to what my bud's plant (the one dying) is showing, i mean identical to a "T". Got to thinking about it, and like you mentioned re the wood chips - if they're oak or pine (or whatever other woods turn soil acidic), that could be a major factor.

Last nite, found an interesting link to pH and alkilinity (not the same thing it turns out), and from what i gathered, alkilinity refers to a measurement showing the soil's ability to buffer low pH influencing factors. And apparently one of them is the nute salt buildup over time - it will lower pH as well - so your flushing would appear to be the right track. you might want to check it out https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=169662

I think his problem is primarily the wood chips as he had issues with the low pH since transplanting into the Happy Frog soil - but the dying plant was the only one that wasn't transplanted (he lacked one 5 gal bucket, and the plant was a problem child from day one - would not respond to LST - grew like Jack's Bean stalk, and he actually had all the limbs arranged in a spiral around the pot, to keep the height reined in - and no matter how much he lst'd it, the damn thing would grow like a....well, a weed.

went over to my bud's this morning, he flushed the dying plant with 11.0 pH water, runoff came out at 6.13 . (for the record, he's using a HM Digital ph-200 meter, and calibrated it just before using it this AM - typically, it was only off by .10 to the high side). He used the fast acting lime, dissolving it directly in the water, to "sweeten" it to 11.0, based on the links refering alkilinity and attempting to buildup the alkilinity.

One of the other plants, flushed with same 11.0 water and run-off 6.76. But based on the link i posted above, he's going to flush it daily with high pH water till it stabilizes in the 6.5-6.8 range


smoke, maybe you speed read my original post, but runoff pH was running 5.4, so feeding it high pH water, i'm trying to average it up to an acceptable range. But not by not monitoring your runoff pH, you really don't know how much better your plants would be doing if their pH is off. If you check the nutrient charts on the web, (i think foxfarm has one on their web, and GH does as well), they show the pH ranges for each of the nutrients & minerals and calcium locks out below 6.4 and above 6.9 iirc.

fwiw
 

gonzo`

Member
in soil plants take a while to respond, like days... its not the same in coco/hydro where you can see changes overnight... most likely everything you're doing is hurting the plants because you dont give them time to adjust...

also ph of soil is not going to be equal to your runoff ph.. you need to do a test where you take a portion of the soil and mix it in distilled water, then drain the water and measure the pH of that...

the extreme swings you're creating in the root zone cannot be good, pH 11 water???

don't make things so complicated, just use one brand of soil and don't amend so many things... too many variables etc...
 

OldSSSCGuy

Active member
The lime will continue to buffer the pH. Its very good at that. It will raise or lower the pH constantly and will lead to tail chasing.

Every time I have chased pH levels the crop was much less than it could have been. Every time I ignored the pH and just left the plants alone, returns were much better. I have flushed/leeched soil on sick plants maybe every 2-3 crops, but aside from that its been FF Frog, Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom.

Most of the pH problems I've seen people talk about have led to sick plants - not because of the pH but from all the changing and fixing people try to alter the pH.
 
The lime will continue to buffer the pH. Its very good at that. It will raise or lower the pH constantly and will lead to tail chasing.

Every time I have chased pH levels the crop was much less than it could have been. Every time I ignored the pH and just left the plants alone, returns were much better. I have flushed/leeched soil on sick plants maybe every 2-3 crops, but aside from that its been FF Frog, Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom.

Most of the pH problems I've seen people talk about have led to sick plants - not because of the pH but from all the changing and fixing people try to alter the pH.


i understand what you're saying and agree that scenario would not be beneficial to the plant, but in this case the scenario is the reverse

my bud flushes his plants with approx 300% 7.0 pH water every 4 weeks, he feeds, waters 3 days later, feeds 3 days later, and so on

it was over a few days that the one plant went to turning leaves yellow (see frankobud's first pix) and then couple days later the dying plant looked like frank's second pix - that was when he measured run off pH. And i know the runoff pH is not the soil's pH, but am i wrong in assuming that if 7.0 or 7.5 pH goes in, and run-off measures at 5.4, that the soil's pH has to be somewhere south of 5.4???? That was the reading, iirc, when he first noticed the issue. Then when 11.0 goes in and 6.13 comes out, that's the one that kind of worries me, and hopefully the explanation is the nute salt buildup was concentrated to the point that he's going to need to do like frankobud described, a number of flushings to get the salts out.

tks for the response though

i just can't see leaving this plant alone to simply die, assuming the pH issues will self resolve or self heal. But that's why i'm trying to learn, to avoid the issues that growers face
 
well my bud flushed the dying plant this morning with 7 gallons + of 7.10 pH water - the first run-off sampled at 6.07, by the end it was up to 6.17.

He uses aerated & filtered water that sits at least 24 hours to let the chlorine evap off. I've noticed that when aerated water is pH'd fresh from the aeration tank, it'll show 7.25-7.5 pH, then after sitting out of the tank for a bit the pH drops back to what it was after filtering, about 6.5. so i'm starting to wonder if the water going in at 7.10 is loosing it's spare O molecule before exiting as runoff, then the soil's pH may not be that low or not as bad as we'd thought. If it is scrubbing off the excess oxygen molecule, then that would mean 6.5 water coming out at 6.17, i'm "guessing" puts the soil's true pH somewhere around 5.7-5.8.

Tomorrow he's going to cut a hole in the side of the pot and take a core of the soil to measure it directly.

But i think, like frankobud said, it's going to take a number of flushings and maybe a little "super" flushing with some water sweetened with lime

just from the lime flushing yesterday, that dying plant is looking a little better - no new yellowing leaves, no new dead leaves on the floor and some of the faded leaves look like they're regaining some color - but it's hard to tell - wish i'd thought to take some photos yesterday and compare them to what the camera captures today.

anyway, fwiw
 

moonymonkey

Active member
looks like you are headed in entsthe right direction,iv seen some do this on og,watered ,with lime water first,then nutrients,seen people water with high ph7.4 nutirents t hen water ph 6.8 twice in a row blancing ph,sposeling unstable,but can be done.im not endorsing this stuff..just saying...ph has alot to do with drainage,density,volume,type of a mendments...then you go figure in organics .therefore watering mistakes can definately afect ph in alot of cases.thats peace moon,/aka feetdragger...what it all seems like is making the nutrients available...yo
 
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T

tazz11

na the wood chips are holding the water and your drowning them ... flush 3 times every 3-5 days half a quart of water no PH added ,15 days you will be back on track .. you got a moisture meter ?
 
T

tazz11

na the wood chips are holding the water and your drowning them ... flush 3 times every 3-5 days half a quart of water no PH added ,15 days you will be back on track .. you got a moisture meter ?
see how your leafs are twisting ....if they don't get enough water the will act like they are being wrapped around a soft ball or inverted bowl shape .. if they get the right amount of water the are for the most flat and they make the rain catcher effect .is when the outer edges of the leaf fold up ward to catch rain .. so if you over water the leafs will twist and bend this reaction stops the rain from flowing down the stem...if you watch close you will see the nudes face upward when it rains this help direct rain inward to the trunk at the bottom of the plant . do you know anything about plant recycling and life cycles ..?

a tree forces water in ward and the leafs drop in a circle shape around the tree and slowly vanishes the more distance from the tree trunk ,those leaf rot and create urea nitrogen ,natures feeding it self from season to season ...the cannabis plant dose the same thing .
 
only aspect i dispute, oak and pine wood chips, which is what i've used as mulch in my azalea beds, take the soil acidic, which is why everyone uses them for mulching azaleas - they like acidic soil

taken from wikipedia re tannic acid (which oak and pine trees give off:

http://www.nature.com/scitable/blog/plantchemcast/tannic_acid_friend_or_foe

...... the most common occurrence of Tannic Acid is in the twigs of certain trees, specifically Chestnut and Oak trees. Decomposition of trees around bodies of water often leads to the direct colorization of the water giving it a swampy look with limited visibility. Thus, the excess of Tannic Acid is such organic matter inevitably leads to a changing environment for all the organisms around the area, especially those of the aquatic species. Known colloquially as "cola water", the solution of Tannic Acid and water expectably reduces the pH level below 7, leading to a far more acidic environment. ...........
 
T

tazz11

only aspect i dispute, oak and pine wood chips, which is what i've used as mulch in my azalea beds, take the soil acidic, which is why everyone uses them for mulching azaleas - they like acidic soil

taken from wikipedia re tannic acid (which oak and pine trees give off:

http://www.nature.com/scitable/blog/plantchemcast/tannic_acid_friend_or_foe

...... the most common occurrence of Tannic Acid is in the twigs of certain trees, specifically Chestnut and Oak trees. Decomposition of trees around bodies of water often leads to the direct colorization of the water giving it a swampy look with limited visibility. Thus, the excess of Tannic Acid is such organic matter inevitably leads to a changing environment for all the organisms around the area, especially those of the aquatic species. Known colloquially as "cola water", the solution of Tannic Acid and water expectably reduces the pH level below 7, leading to a far more acidic environment. ...........
your only correct a part your data . what your saying would be true if you gave them one set amount . but in this case the playing with fire . I have about 30 black walnut and oaks around my home and a horse chestnut about 10 ft from my back door . did you know the horse chestnut is toxic ! and humans can not consume it , they do make some kind of cosmetics from it but eating it or smoking it is a no brainer ,the water chestnut is eatable ,the horse chestnut is used in some soil additives as a toxic insect replant...do you eat your or smoke your azalea ?
 
your only correct a part your data . what your saying would be true if you gave them one set amount . but in this case the playing with fire . I have about 30 black walnut and oaks around my home and a horse chestnut about 10 ft from my back door . did you know the horse chestnut is toxic ! and humans can not consume it , they do make some kind of cosmetics from it but eating it or smoking it is a no brainer ,the water chestnut is eatable ,the horse chestnut is used in some soil additives as a toxic insect replant...do you eat your or smoke your azalea ?

tazz, not exactly sure what that has with the fact that oak, pine and a number of woods, take the pH down

my mentioning the wood chips was one possibility for the couple of other plants, they aren't dying but showing a few yellowed leaves, and their pH was down, but not as radically. But something in the course of 3-4 weeks took that one plant's pH way down, and ironically as that was the only plant that hadn't been transplanted into the new soil with excessive chips, the wood chips wouldn't be a viable explanation for this plant's condition.
 
tons of fast lime will cause issues in itself.

was thinking the same thing and mentioned that to him. He flushed it again today with 7.5 pH water (no lime but RO'd & aerated), 7.5-8 gallons and got the pH up a couple 1/10ths to 6.19

he's going to let it "rest" over the weekend, and early to mid week transplant this one to see if the root bind is the cause. he started regulating the pH on the new soil this morning when i was leaving.
 

OldSSSCGuy

Active member
No lime, no 'lime water'. Will only lead to more tail chasing IMHO. It and tannic acid will force down whatever you try. As you already did - best response is to leech the pots well - about 1 gallon of fresh plain water per gallon of container. When trying to diagnose soil problems a good leeching gives you a known baseline to work from. It will rinse out any salt build ups or precipitates in the soil, depending on the soil mix it can result in a damn near inert growing media.

Don't overthink it. Rinse and stabilize. A plant can and will tolerate all sorts of stuff and environments - as long as they are consistent.
 

Smökë2

New member
No lime, no 'lime water'. Will only lead to more tail chasing IMHO. It and tannic acid will force down whatever you try. As you already did - best response is to leech the pots well - about 1 gallon of fresh plain water per gallon of container. When trying to diagnose soil problems a good leeching gives you a known baseline to work from. It will rinse out any salt build ups or precipitates in the soil, depending on the soil mix it can result in a damn near inert growing media.

Don't overthink it. Rinse and stabilize. A plant can and will tolerate all sorts of stuff and environments - as long as they are consistent.

Preach!!! Dont overthink it!!! Consistency is keyyy!! stop drowning your plant in water with different ph levels..
 

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