analogcricket
Member
What temps do you use to get wax(honeycomb)?
and
What temps do you use to get shatter?
and
What temps do you use to get shatter?
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Temps
- Thread starter analogcricket
- Start date
StayFoolish22
Member
Use 10 Gigajueles
analogcricket
Member
i guess no one has a solid answer, considering ive gotten wax and shatter ranging at temps between 100-120. i was just trying to dial in my temps to make it more consistent.
Momerath
Active member
Its different for every strain, dependent on how hot you purged before the vac, and how deep of a vac you can pull. I know people say "yada yada all pumps hit -29.9 eventually" but its been my experience that stronger pumps pull deeper vacuums. My 8cfm Robinair just stomps my 3cfm FJC as far as how fast it pulls, and how deep.
I've gotten honeycomb from temps as low as 95f all the way up to 135f, under different amounts of vacuum. The deeper the vac, the lower your temp will need to be. Also another key is to get your oil to the proper temp as fast as possible and KEEP IT THERE. Temp fluctuations are a sure fire way to get inconsistencies (many consider honeycomb to be just that, an inconsistency caused by runaway temps).
For shatter, I usually go 105-110 at full vac. The pro's recommend 115f at -29.5. To find where that is on your gauge (if not at sea level), is to stick a glass of 51F water in the chamber and pull a vac until it boils, that's where -29.5 is on your dial.
I've gotten honeycomb from temps as low as 95f all the way up to 135f, under different amounts of vacuum. The deeper the vac, the lower your temp will need to be. Also another key is to get your oil to the proper temp as fast as possible and KEEP IT THERE. Temp fluctuations are a sure fire way to get inconsistencies (many consider honeycomb to be just that, an inconsistency caused by runaway temps).
For shatter, I usually go 105-110 at full vac. The pro's recommend 115f at -29.5. To find where that is on your gauge (if not at sea level), is to stick a glass of 51F water in the chamber and pull a vac until it boils, that's where -29.5 is on your dial.
analogcricket
Member
awesome. i appreciate the input. another question i was curious about is when i pull the vac the temperature is going to raise?
im confused a little on how youre figuring out where -29.5 is... so i just need to get a glass of water at 51F and put it in my oven off and pull the vac and when it boils its at -29.5?
im confused a little on how youre figuring out where -29.5 is... so i just need to get a glass of water at 51F and put it in my oven off and pull the vac and when it boils its at -29.5?
Momerath
Active member
Yes sir! Add no heat, just add glass of cold water. Water at 51f boils at -29.5. However, do not confuse the waters degassing for boiling. When you near -29, the gasses dissolved in the water will bubble out violently, followed by either slow boiling, or nothing at all. If the boiling continues after about 60-90 seconds, you are at -29.5. If the bubbles boil violently for 30-60 seconds then stop, you aren't there yet.
And no, when you pull a vac, the temps drop. This can be observed by putting your vac chamber in a water bath. Take the temp of the bath at 0, and at -29.9. Observe and record your findings
My bath temp usually plunges 2-5 degress from 0 to -29.9. Also the evaporating solvent will lower the temperature of your extract in the vac. Not by a whole lot though, so if you have a vac oven the temp fluctuations shouldn't be that drastic.
Hope this helps!
And no, when you pull a vac, the temps drop. This can be observed by putting your vac chamber in a water bath. Take the temp of the bath at 0, and at -29.9. Observe and record your findings
My bath temp usually plunges 2-5 degress from 0 to -29.9. Also the evaporating solvent will lower the temperature of your extract in the vac. Not by a whole lot though, so if you have a vac oven the temp fluctuations shouldn't be that drastic. Hope this helps!
My notes on the boiling water under vacuum test,
Using a Yellow Jacket 69075 electronic micron meter I've found the first rapid boiling to be the boiling point. I always valve off as soon as it starts to boil to avoid getting moisture in my pump oil. When using water at 51F to find -29.5" Hg the water will want to liberate heat rather than boil, and so it will stay at about 51F during the test as it has no place to easily liberate the heat. Do a water boiling test with the water at ambient or higher and the water temperature will drop as the vacuum is reduced to the boiling point, in this case the water would need to be kept at the desired temperature to find the corresponding vacuum level.
Using a Yellow Jacket 69075 electronic micron meter I've found the first rapid boiling to be the boiling point. I always valve off as soon as it starts to boil to avoid getting moisture in my pump oil. When using water at 51F to find -29.5" Hg the water will want to liberate heat rather than boil, and so it will stay at about 51F during the test as it has no place to easily liberate the heat. Do a water boiling test with the water at ambient or higher and the water temperature will drop as the vacuum is reduced to the boiling point, in this case the water would need to be kept at the desired temperature to find the corresponding vacuum level.
