What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Terpenation at Terpene Station

Holden Oversoul

New member
I'm working on setting up a shoot out in Seattle, between the Appion, Caresaver, TR-21 and Haskel pneumatics.

http://www.hydrosyscorp.com/Refrigerant_Pumps.pdf

I can't wait to hear the results of the shoot out.

Has anyone else tried a Reftec Diablo recovery pump? It is quieter, and a little bit faster than the Appion. Quieter than he CPS TR21(+MT69) and the Speed is about the same as the CPS pump. I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and it works well. An added bonus is that it is made in the USA.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Well Durd, It seems you are the one who assumes all too often. I cant read this thread with you on ignore simply because you post here so often, there are too many quotes and nonsense talking the thread is left with a fuzzy picture. So I have chosen to ignore you without the button. I do not own 3 terps, lol you assuming again. I still have one, and an old friend has two, we teamed up to tackle his material. We are currently building an MK5 and also one of our own design with expansion capabilities exceeding 20lbs of material and still capable of doing a mkIII size run as well. I would share the details but I know you come here to mine ideas for profit, so Ill keep this one to myself for now. As for me trying to prove you wrong, dont flatter yourself dude. I was only trying to make sure that people know that I do not put on a show or lie about my results. I was merely defending my name. Im glad someone else has done this before me. I got so sick of hearing about your dry ice subzero blah blah being the only way to make shatter. Especially when you have to use heat no matter how you do it. How can you purge without heat if not using ethanol? Anyhow I really hope the banned title sticks and maybe you can be reincarnated with a new friendlier sock. Or maybe you will stick to your instagram and throw in the towel? Nah, I know you get off on this, youll be back. Until then Ill enjoy what time we have without you. :) :thank you:

:yes:

FE
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I can't wait to hear the results of the shoot out.

Has anyone else tried a Reftec Diablo recovery pump? It is quieter, and a little bit faster than the Appion. Quieter than he CPS TR21(+MT69) and the Speed is about the same as the CPS pump. I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and it works well. An added bonus is that it is made in the USA.


I too am interested in the results of the showdown..

Got any pics of your Pump, Holden? Give us a review if you have the time. . . Thanks



FE
 

nakadashi

Member
I can't wait to hear the results of the shoot out.

Has anyone else tried a Reftec Diablo recovery pump? It is quieter, and a little bit faster than the Appion. Quieter than he CPS TR21(+MT69) and the Speed is about the same as the CPS pump. I've been using it for a couple of weeks now, and it works well. An added bonus is that it is made in the USA.
Damn, I just made a box to cut down of the noise of the Appion... With the time it took me to make (I'm not a very handy person) I shoulda just bought this quiet pump. I'm also very interested in a review of this pump :)
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
anytime... :)

anytime... :)

West coast D.O.G. out of the pot...
Room temp columns, super iced tanks using
GW's pinky toe dip method. 10 second dip in hot water (wyott set on number 10) anytime you begin to see the collection pot frost up. Vacuum down collection vessel to 29 for the finish and release after 10mins. Vac oven purged thin layer @ max temp 102 @ -29Hg for 30 min then @- 23Hg for aprox 1.5 hours



picture.php
out of the pot...

picture.php



picture.php


picture.php


picture.php
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Sorry if this has been previously answered, but I swear I've read hundreds of Terpenator-related posts and can't remember seeing it answered anywhere. My question regards step #11 of the operating instructions.

I've long wondered why after step 11.0 and the pressure is equalized, why valve 2 isn't then closed again to help pull butane back down through the column?
Now that I have a sightglass to observe what is going on at the top of the column I decided to investigate. After step 11.0 the butane is violently frothing in the sightglass. I assume that it's because some of the butane is being pulled off both as a vapor from the top, and as a liquid flowing down the column. I then closed valve #2 (my step 11.1) and I observed the bubbling cease and the level of butane in the sightglass started to travel down rather quickly. Which is exactly what my intuition told me would happen. I left the valve closed for a moment and then re-opened it only because I wanted to finish the run following the standard Terpenator Operating Instruction to not muck up my yield experiment run. Also, noticed a thick coating of ice formed on the column unlike the normal frosting that occurs on column dumps. I made a video that starts with #2 and #3 open, then, I closed valve #2, and finally I reopened #2 which is when you see the butane starts frothing again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HtBqc6loq0&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Pay no mind to the gaskets in the sightglass, this just an experimental trash run. Swapping out to the viton for my next real run, tomorrow.

It is frothing at the top, because the down tube is submerged at the bottom. I leave the vent open, so that the material soaked into the plant material can be freely vacuumed out, after the liquid drops out the bottom.

The ice on the column forms from boiling the butane soaked into the plant material under vacuum.

I've measured temperatures lower than -26F just boiling butane at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperatures.
 

Attachments

  • Evaporating butane temperature-1-1.jpg
    Evaporating butane temperature-1-1.jpg
    22.6 KB · Views: 20

icdog

Member
Looks nice FE. What is the best way to get the product off those downspouts and save it, anything besides scrapping?
What do you guys use to clean the pot and gaskets?

I'm wondering how its possible to run one column after another on the same collection pot? The pot gets really cold.

GW that other recovery pump is based overseas. Are there any recovery pumps in North America designed for butane?
 

Momerath

Active member
I use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean my stainless and gaskets. I would use ethanol, but its hard to come by in my state so I only use it for winterizing.

And running multiple columns is easy, you just gotta recover the butane after each column, the temp of the collection tank hasn't had any effect on how many tubes I can run. However on that note, the more columns you run, the longer your recovery time per column. I usually scrape after every 3-4 columns (for 10% yielding material).
 
Looks nice FE. What is the best way to get the product off those downspouts and save it, anything besides scrapping?
What do you guys use to clean the pot and gaskets?

I'm wondering how its possible to run one column after another on the same collection pot? The pot gets really cold.

GW that other recovery pump is based overseas. Are there any recovery pumps in North America designed for butane?

Winterize it. Thats what this machine was originally designed for. I have recently switched to winterizing everything, as i noticed some metal shavings in my oil from trying to scrape the spools. Stainless on stainless scraping will eventually lead to shavings for sure. So its pretty much pour liquid butane out or pour ethanol in for me now. And doing the winterizing method i can get about 1.5 times as much extracted in a day since i dont need to go back and forth to the vac and scraping sucks. Then i just filter and purge the winterized stuff later in the week sometime. a big evap box like on SPR helps a lot.


If you do multiple columns you need to have heat the whole time. I only do 2 max, the oil gets everywhere in the pot though. You have to pull a vacuum in between columns to make up for the air that gets introduced while switching.
 

Momerath

Active member
Also forgot to add, I am now using the pour out method. It saves time (about 10-15 min per column), and gives me more options for what I want to do with the finished product. Also eliminates scraping, avoiding those metal shavings in your concrete (for those that don't winterize). I only winterize my personal runs. Everything else goes out as concrete or oleo-resin, as per the patients request. Doing the pour out method has allowed me greater control over the finished consistency (shatter, honeycomb, or sap on demand! :))
 

A6 Grower

Member
Veteran
If you do multiple columns you need to have heat the whole time. I only do 2 max, the oil gets everywhere in the pot though. You have to pull a vacuum in between columns to make up for the air that gets introduced while switching.

Open up your vent valve slower, I can do 3-4 tubes and have only a few drops of oil on the lid. By slow i mean SLOW!! I crack it just till the pressure rises, then stop wait till the pressure stops rising and only open a tiny bit at a time trying to not have a huge change in pressure. Also open that dump valve slow at the end too, same thing, open wait till pressure equalises, do that till its all the way open.

Edit: Damn when i first read this thread it was 15 pages, never would have thought it would have exploded like this, i got busy for a month or so and didnt keep up, took me hours to get to this page
 

icdog

Member
I'd like to try winterizing but the getting the ethanol or grain alcohol in Canada is really difficult.
Has anyone tried those titanium scrappers from Clauss?
 

A6 Grower

Member
Veteran
You can winterize with Butane but it is of course a little bit more dangerous and requires dry ice as you can't put it in the freezer.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
The pour out method is ok but is messy and requires a clean space to evap and avoid dust and fire. If you get your timing right you can get semi solid pre shatter that is easy to scrape. I can scrape the whole pot in less than 2 min and have it back together. The oil shovel and one swoop and its done. If doing more runs dont worry about the sides. If you are doing it right your pot wont be splattered but all the oil in the bottom and a little on on your down tubes depending how deep the oil is. Opening the #3 valve slowly is key to keeping the inside splatter free.

FE
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I will say I do like the pour out method if Im prepared for it. The extractor Im building will include a bottom spout for draining liquid butane, so I can better utilize this method.


FE
 

Momerath

Active member
I am working on getting to a completely scrape-free tech. Its always just messy and wasteful. In the next couple days I got a cool new slick sheet coming that I will be combining with the pour out method, low heat purge and then right into the vac, scrape and agitation free!

Was also thinking the same thing on the spout for the collection vessel. Just gonna install a little spigot so I can just drain off the butane/oil without opening the whole system. I am dreaming of a MKV with a spout that, when opened, flows a most beautiful stream of golden goodness right into a lovingly prepared pyrex.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Momerath,

dont pour butane on silicone, they are not compatible and silicone will break down and contaminate your oil. I was also reading were graywolf mentioned how certain terpenes will strip paint off of things. One terpene mentioned that is not compatible was pinene. Im going to quit using it just to be safe. A quick google Im sure will turn up some info...

The problem auguring the answer is the entourage of terpenes involved. Some so aggressive that they will strip paint.

Here is a link that list rubber chemical compatability, that shows for instance that Pinene, one of the major monoterpenes present, isn't compatible with silicone rubber. I'm pretty sure many of the others aren't either.

The problems go up with concentration and temperature, and the terpenes present are at relatively low concentration, so I have to say I'm not qualified to make that call.

I do not see a link GW...?


FE
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I believe parchment paper is coated with silicone as well....all glass is the best option, pyrex... you can find pie pans cheap at your local goodwill, regular price is 5$ just about anywhere.
 
Top