Probably the idiot Hillbilly that is full of hate and "misinformation". Welcome to the club!
Why are you applying Bayer 3 in 1?...and what is your objective in using Neem in the soil?
Cheers!
You could always try washing away the medium from around the roots.
I never used the triple action neem in the soil. Its supposed to be a contact killer and ovacide, where as the aza isnt a contact killer.
From what Ive read neem is more systemic when applied as a soil drench because the plant can absorb more of it.
The 3 in 1 is because I dont use eagle20. 3 in 1 has a systemic fungicide as well as imid and tebuconazole. That should kill anything on contact. Ive never used it and didnt know if it was a good idea to water that stuff in though, so I just dipped them in it and used an imid product to water in.
The good news is I do have 2 cuts from my wifi's that just rooted and never wilted.
After I went to war on the clones the dude told me I shouldnt have used anything cuz he sprayed with avid...lol sprayed... Thats not good enough.
bayer 3 in 1 is systemic if I remember right. no thanks. why so many products. I very rarely get any bugs and neem an azamax takes care of em all.and just cause you pour shit in soil don't mean the plant will absorb it an be systemic.
Clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil is not made for soil/Drench application....
It's only for Foliar spraying and dunking
Make neem tea with neem cake to kill just about anything in the root zone. 1 cup neem cake bubbled for 36-48 hours in a 5 gallon bucket of water. Then soil drench 3 times 4 days apart. Then do it once per week for maintenance.
If you use OGBIOWAR Foliar pack with neem tea you will never have another critter problem. 20 grams per gallon of water/tea on the Foliar pack.
Easy Peazy.
My $0.02:
Systemics: Good and bad; since we all know the "good" (and for the sake of brevity) allow me to focus on what I see are "bad":
1. Half-life of most systemics can exceed 100 days or so--with many exceeding years--like imidacloprid. I prefer to use synthetics (as most systemics are) as a last resort, but if the pest is root aphids, instead of using imidacloprid I would use Orthene (acephate)--half-life less than 10 days and as it degrades it helps the microherd...lessor of all evils you might say.
2. Diminished quality. I have a very sensitive palate (years of fine wine tasting) and can detect nuances (both aroma/bouquet and flavor) many miss. Every time I drenched the soil with imidacloprid, neem/azadirachtin, and other synthetic/chems with long half-lives (most were "systemic")--the quality of the smoke diminished. Sometimes the flavor had an unpleasant character (bitter or nasty bite), other times the aroma from the "brunt herb" was not right (slight burnt plastic-like or not "sweet"). Did it effect the high? Hard to say--but doing side by side hits (treated vs untreated), sometimes (not always) I detected a significant difference.
3. Effect on clone/offspring. Conclusions from science suggest plants do inherit certain attributes (SAR and induced resistance via "transgenerational priming" (google it) are two examples). In "our world" this means clones and seeds from a treated plant will inherit certain "stress-memories and DNA modifications".
Contact killer--my favorite is Riptide (5% pyrethrin 25% PBO) sold for ULV fly/mosquito misters...half gallon $105 (half the price for Evergreen, water soluble and oil free!) http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/riptide-50-pyrethrin-ulv-p-216.html. Half-life is days, great for foliar, soil drenches (I combined it with Orthene to combat root aphids) and "soil sprays" for fungus gnats.
Clone dip. To control critters and PM try this.
Before making the final 90 degree stem cut, submerge the cutting 100% for 30 seconds in:
2 liters water
5 ml Azamax/Azatrol
1 ml Cocowet
To control PM (Eagle20 free) try rotating these foliar sprays I developed/stole/discovered:
Oil Spray--good for PM, mites, leaf crunchers, etc...BUT DO NOT use on plants with flower formations
1 gal Water
0.5gm Urea (gm)
7.5ml Azatrol-azadirachtin
7.5ml Neem Oil
2.5ml Riptide-pyrethrin+pbo
7.5ml Hydrolyzed Fish
2.5ml Blue Agave
2.5ml Coco Wet
(Eagle20 and Avid can be added to the above--no compatibility issues)
PM Bacteria Spray--controls PM and will improve "leaf health"...Use on all plants--up to a few days before harvest
Water (start with 1/2 gallon...then after mixing add enough for 1 gallon of total liquid)
0.5gm Urea
30ml Serenade (Bacillus subtilis)
946ml Raw Milk (for 25%)
7.5ml Hydrolyzed Fish (Veg only...omit for plants in flower)
2.5ml Blue Agave
2.5ml Coco Wet
Why add a wee bit of Urea to foliar spray? Because Urea has been shown to stimulate absorption of other nutrients by increasing the permeability of leaf tissue...like 50% within 1/2 - 2 hours.
BTW, have not used Eagle20 since May 2013...and no PM today. I contribute this to high levels of PAS (plant available silica)--amorphous silica and monosilicic acid are the only ones.
I add Fossil Shell Flour--food grade DE (amorphous silica) at the crazy rates of 5-6% (by volume) and the liquid silica (potassium silicate) I use in my "mineral brews" also contains "monosilicic acid". Hence, all my silica inputs contain PAS and become "plant available" immediately. It takes weeks to convert "potassium silicate" into "monosilicic acid", or said differently: PAS is available weeks after applying "potassium silicate" (Silica Blast, Pro-tekt, etc).
Sorry for the long answer...but this new strain/pheno I selected to "replace my production run" is phenomenal! Gotta be careful after smoking it--my mouth can "runneth over"! It is the best I have had in awhile and named it "M33" (after the "assigned seedline number")...cuz the story that came with the seed has got to be 100% bullshit--"Seed came from Afghanistan via a UN Observer"...RMAOL! Heard some shit in my day--heard "better ones"...lol! Thinking this M33 is going to be very good to me! Good time$ ahead!
Good luck man--Cheers!