Terpenation at Terpene Station

[FatherEarth]

Lion's Mane

Lion's Mane

Here are some snaps of the latest batch of Shatter. No taffy. As soon as the video is done finalizing I will upload it and get it linked so that you can see the full demonstration. I know my critics are anxiously waiting, lol
From AA flowers...
Ole Betsy( smells like citrus mango mixed with baby shit ) good but a lil nasty at times...This stuff reeks, it will over power most other odors.

 

[high life 45]

Everyone, Thanks for the replies!
@gw I should have clarified, lol. We removed the line going to the tank when pulling a vac. We were not pumping it back onto the recovery tank...Makes sense that it will wear out..

@ durden, up here in the northwest are cannabis laws are alot more solid and dont vary from county to county as in California.(ie humbodt and trinity county have different limits, last time I lived there San Mateo county was undeclared) In oregon the law is the same across the state, although some areas in the state are more lenient, the same law applies to the entire state.

New laws are going into place up here where " EVERYTHING MUST BE TESTED THAT GOES INTO "CLUB OR DISPENSARY""

..my comment on residual tane is based upon what I have gathered from test results, and heard from my friends who do alot of extracting. You said it yourself "over half the entrants failed" the tane test...I am not suprised one bit.. I am not qualified to say whats to much tane, but I dont think theres a problem with having to little.

I just think that alot of this "purged' shatter that hasn't been tested is only "visually purged". Well if it hasnt been tested, how purged is it really? I just think as an emerging industry we should start setting standards.. You seem to have really high standard as to what you consider true shatter and what is cheat shatter, the texture the flashing temps ets..why not take it a step further with some testing?


​

Is this a joke? If not, we live on different planets, with different water, chlorophyll, and marijuana.
In my locations chlorophyll is not washed with water cure and buds are becoming not white, and almost black.

Hey jump this is 100% not a joke. Really respect what you have shared with the community. How long are you water curing for? In fact, I will gladly perform this test again and i invite you t join me... Yes, I bet our water is different. I am very curios was to why your plant material is turning black, that only happens with rot, mold, and combustion in my experience...as far as i know the fiber in the plant aka hemp is usually more tan and pale in color. Im thinking of all of that hemp clothing I see, theres a whole lot of hippes in my are. Removing the cholorphyl should leave cellulose fiber which i thought more pale in color. I will start a thread and hopefully we can do a global water curing test, and compare notes.

 

[high life 45]

FE that shatter looks great!

 

[nakadashi]

DAMN! 3x36 is like 5x more volume O_O Is there something about the MKIa design that made you choose to modify that design rather than modifying the MKIIIa instead? I was thinking of upsizing myself, was planning on basically expanding the bottom tank to use a spool with a wider base and sizing up column appropriately like you are doing.

 

[nakadashi]

high life -- when you water purged did you do so in sunlight? I water cured a small batch in the past and the result was a darker bud than air cured of the same batch. I am thinking one thing that could cause it to be lighter is exposure to sunlight?

 

[RegisPhilburn1]

DAMN! 3x36 is like 5x more volume O_O Is there something about the MKIa design that made you choose to modify that design rather than modifying the MKIIIa instead? I was thinking of upsizing myself, was planning on basically expanding the bottom tank to use a spool with a wider base and sizing up column appropriately like you are doing.

FWIW i have been using a 2"x24" column on the MKIIIa with a 6x12" base and 1.5-2" reducers with good success. It can hold about 300g's and my typical recovery times with 3 floods and 100F heat on the pot are about 30-35 min. Its a bit top heavy though, so i clamp it to a nearby table. Thinking about doing just 2 floods though, cause 30 min is a long soak.

I think Durden is using a 10x12" base instead of the paint pot on the MKIa. Besides the increased volume, the advantage of the wider pots is the increased surface area of the butane pool, which leads to faster recovery times.

Im in the middle of building a similar one with a 12x12 base and 3x36 column. im really interested in doing bottom fed continuos shower runs with a 2"x36" column, hoping that the 12x12 base has more than enough volume to hold a couple column loads of tane.

 

[nakadashi]

FWIW i have been using a 2"x24" column on the MKIIIa with a 6x12" base and 1.5-2" reducers with good success. It can hold about 300g's and my typical recovery times with 3 floods and 100F heat on the pot are about 30-35 min. Its a bit top heavy though, so i clamp it to a nearby table. Thinking about doing just 2 floods though, cause 30 min is a long soak.

I think Durden is using a 10x12" base instead of the paint pot on the MKIa. Besides the increased volume, the advantage of the wider pots is the increased surface area of the butane pool, which leads to faster recovery times.

Im in the middle of building a similar one with a 12x12 base and 3x36 column. im really interested in doing bottom fed continuos shower runs with a 2"x36" column, hoping that the 12x12 base has more than enough volume to hold a couple column loads of tane.

I was wondering about why use a paint pot that doesn't detach from the bottom when one could just use a 12" diameter spool

I am very curious as to how much faster a 12" diameter pot will recover vs the 6" as we are currently using.. Is there some advantage you see to continuous shower vs flood/drain cycles? In my mind the cycles are superior because continuous shower might not be as complete in picking up the goodies.

 

[RegisPhilburn1]

Basically i would just flood the column for 2-3x as long as it took to fill, then isolate the column for a brief soak while i recover what is in the pot, then dump. Im hoping for increased speed as well as hopefully picking up less waxes, as the pressure shouldnt build up as much in the column with a full flow so the selectivity of the solvent should be a little better cause butane wont have time to warm and build pressure during the soak. I think that because it is soaking from the bottom up that the material should get a thorough wetting. The 12x12 pot is hopefully big enough to hold all this tane.

Im still not sure of how it will pan out, i will let you know how it goes.

12x12 are hard to come by these days

 

[jump117]

Hey jump this is 100% not a joke. Really respect what you have shared with the community. How long are you water curing for? In fact, I will gladly perform this test again and i invite you t join me... Yes, I bet our water is different. I am very curios was to why your plant material is turning black, that only happens with rot, mold, and combustion in my experience...as far as i know the fiber in the plant aka hemp is usually more tan and pale in color. Im thinking of all of that hemp clothing I see, theres a whole lot of hippes in my are. Removing the cholorphyl should leave cellulose fiber which i thought more pale in color. I will start a thread and hopefully we can do a global water curing test, and compare notes.

Hey high life 45 !
I used tap water, we have it about 140 ppm, pH~7.
I was changing the water daily for as long as ppm of drain water was down to ppm of tap water.
It took a week or a little longer.
Color of drainage water was at first yellow, then lightened to colorless, but has never been green.
At the end of cure, buds remain green.
They dried up very quickly, reduced in size and darkened to a dark brown color.
When flushing with ethanol, water-cured buds began to trickle greens earlier than fresh.
I have not seen anything like whitening. Water cure have not removed the chlorophyll.

 

[mr. durden]

@highlife I wish the laws down here were consistent and i wish they did residual test... i'm not worried but i know a lot of people don't know how to properly purge.

i'm not sure if it was you or someone else who mentioned ppm or ppb numbers.

i think people would be surprised how much butane is still in there stuff if when they thought they were done they flipped the patty and pulled a hard vac again.

@nakadashi we are too busy and can't process enough using two IIIa's. it would be nice to do larger batches at a time and work a bit less. the yield will suffer, but given the quantity, we are okay with that. i'd rather do 3 days a week and 4 tubes each of those days.

you kinda hit the limits of the IIIa rather quickly. it is just easier to have a dedicated larger unit. i up sized the dip tube to 3/8 just for speed. i used a true 1.5" ball valve.

not sure how you would upsize the bottom spool on the IIIa to something wider without having to weld a new lid. if you start going that route, might as well just build a new unit. i would recommend using the high pressure clamps. that is one reason i think the bhogart is junk... they use the hand tightened clamps and they aren't rated for much pressure and the fit of the bigger lids to spools doesn't feel as solid as on the 6"

@regis yes, i'm using the 10x12 spool. i did start using the 6x12 spools, but i find it easier/quicker to do single tubes on the IIIa with the 6x6 when using dry ice/no heat. i can actually pour within 30 min of starting, if not sooner.

if you calculate the rough cu inches of the 10x12, you won't need the 12x12.... even with a 3x36 column. i think the ratio is 3 to 1. plus, you really aren't filling the column with just butane, so the 10x12 is more than fine. we will be using the bigger unit for a longer single blast versus running multiple cycles.

i just posted pics on my instagram: theotherguy916 of the bigger unit.

@FE you mistake me for someone who cares. anyone can grab pics off the internet

 

[nakadashi]

I just came up with this today, not sure how it will work out:

For a while I have been thinking that the coffee filters aren't working the way we expect them to, because when I am emptying the tubes the bottom filters are always mostly white and a bit yellow around the edges, and the top filters are always consistently yellow. To me this means that the top filter is getting soaked, and butane passes around the sides on the bottom filters. So I cut a sized piece of coffee filter and wedged it into the mesh gasket. Will keep ya'll updated as I am doing my first run with these filters today.

 

[high life 45]

Hey high life 45 !
I used tap water, we have it about 140 ppm, pH~7.
I was changing the water daily for as long as ppm of drain water was down to ppm of tap water.
It took a week or a little longer.
Color of drainage water was at first yellow, then lightened to colorless, but has never been green.
At the end of cure, buds remain green.
They dried up very quickly, reduced in size and darkened to a dark brown color.
When flushing with ethanol, water-cured buds began to trickle greens earlier than fresh.
I have not seen anything like whitening. Water cure have not removed the chlorophyll.

I used purified water that came out of my roomates water ionizer.
It makes sense that Ionized water might remove more than tap water.. I have no idea of the ph or ppm.
It was some sort of high end ionizer health nuts buy.
Thinking back I clearly remember the white nugs in the jar of water, what I dont remember clearly was what they looked like when they dried...I will try to start a thread soon but its the busy season over here.

@nakadashi I didnt have the jar in sunlight. it was on the ledge above the kitchen sink for two weeks.

 

[nakadashi]

Update on the circular cuts of coffee filter wedged into mesh gaskets -- it worked great. No issues with debris in the oil, and it didn't increase flood/recovery times. One of these days I will be brave enough to load tubes without coffee filters...

Highlife - maybe u discovered a new technique, the ionized water cure What a bizzare observation. Jump's water soaked buds were green, when I did water cure the buds turned brown in the water, and only got darker after I took them out of the water. Another possibility is that the buds were already light bleached before water cured?

 

[FatherEarth]

Crispy Golden Shatter.

Where is the science explanation for what constitutes each form of oil? It seems like there is a lot of talk about what is actually happening in the process of the different forms but no scientific data ? Seems like what is being passed around as cannabis oil physics is simply educated speculation. Where is the Oil Scroll Bible? Link me, school me, show me, please. Forums are hard to sift through without references and with reputations to consider.
Who is the Lord of Oil? The official aficionado's reference guide to cannabis oil?
Please and thank you.


FE

 

[FatherEarth]

With fine SS mesh you wont get any oils stuck in the material. If your filters are still yellow you need to dump more times before quitting. If I just do two floods and switch I get yellow filters or an oil laden plug in the end of the column. When I run the terp I usually dump 3 a little at a time for each flood to help clear out the build up of oil from boiling off the butane through the vent tube. Also making sure you give it a second to run once the butane hits the vent tube when flooding, helps exchange oil rich butane for fresh... My 2.


FE

 

[nakadashi]

Crispy Golden Shatter.

Where is the science explanation for what constitutes each form of oil? It seems like there is a lot of talk about what is actually happening in the process of the different forms but no scientific data ? Seems like what is being passed around as cannabis oil physics is simply educated speculation. Where is the Oil Scroll Bible? Link me, school me, show me, please. Forums are hard to sift through without references and with reputations to consider.
Who is the Lord of Oil? The official aficionado's reference guide to cannabis oil?
Please and thank you.


FE

Lol damn that was a fun video to watch. Whats happened to the stuff in the petri dish to cause it to have that consistency? I have a batch sitting around that is ugly and all buddery a failed attempt to make honeycomb, hopefully once I grab a heat gun I can transform it into something translucent and at least semi brittle. What temp do you have your gun set at?

 

[mr. durden]

why not just wax it up nakadashi? can you normally make shatter your first go? if not, what is your process from prep to purging?

take your oil that is buttering up and fold it onto itself so that it is thicker to make that honeycomb cookie thing.

i wish FE would learn to properly name his products... Crispy golden partially decarbed oil. It isn't shatter cause it waxed up first. but hey, this is the internet, we can call anything we want even if it isn't.

 

[localhero]

Not to stir up shit, but FE, do you think that even though the heat gun you use is high heat, you're only heating the wax until it barely melts. flash heating it if you will. that might still be considered a low heat application am I wrong? its not like you are cooking the fresh wax in an oven for an hour at a certain high temp.

in other words, its the temperature of the wax that matters not the heat source heating it

edit:

Also, it could be the amount of time being spent under heat. I remember gray wolf saying something like even wax at temps of 120 for 6 hour periods could decarb the wax. when I first made shatter, I slow melted it all into giant Chrystal rock that i chipped away at to vend. well seeing that I was the only one doing this and the thinner pieces of shatter obviously looked lighter in color and was able to show better, i remelted the rock into sheets like everyone else does. sheets to rock crystal to sheets again. that final remelt turned my hard shatter into bend and snap even though i never let my wax hit above 125. it could have been the accumulative heating time catching up with me?

 

[nakadashi]

why not just wax it up nakadashi? can you normally make shatter your first go? if not, what is your process from prep to purging?

take your oil that is buttering up and fold it onto itself so that it is thicker to make that honeycomb cookie thing.

i wish FE would learn to properly name his products... Crispy golden partially decarbed oil. It isn't shatter cause it waxed up first. but hey, this is the internet, we can call anything we want even if it isn't.

Yea I started with a piece of shatter and then from information on this forum and elsewhere, raised the temps on it and it started to look like wax/budder but it never started looking like honeycomb. I don't really wanna mess around with it anymore because the shatter was a nice translucent amber, but by the time it turned into budder it was opaque dark brown I just decided I'm not gonna waste time catering to people who want honeycomb since there are enough people already who want shatter.

 

[jump117]

i wish FE would learn to properly name his products... Crispy golden partially decarbed oil. It isn't shatter cause it waxed up first. but hey, this is the internet, we can call anything we want even if it isn't.

Hey mr. durden!

I also want to name products properly, help me to learn it, please, answer a few questions.

Partially decarboxylated product can be crispy?
I thought that after partial decarboxylation product must be flexible but not crispy.

I thought that shatter is a hard, transparent product that is not sticky and breaks into shards at room temperature.
The product in the video looks that way.

What follows from the fact that it had previously been waxed up?
After processing product has become a solid, transparent and brittle.
Why it can not be called shatter?
Please define the term.