blackstrap mollasses

[EclipseFour20]

I have observed that certain combinations of ingredients will occasionally do a symbiotic thing...resulting in increased efficiency when "less is used". Mo is one of those ingredients--if used by itself in water...I observed rates as high as 15 ml/gallon is not overdosing; but when Mo is combined with products that contain carbs or increases its efficiency--that rate can cause "overdose" lockup. But if I cut it by a third--and all is well.

Some of the combinations that I reduce Mo from 21 gram/gal (15ml) to 14 gram/gal (10ml) are:
Mo + yucca products
Mo + catalyst products
Mo + certain "food extract" products
Mo + enzyme products
Mo + Canna Boost (yeah...I u$e it)

Sometimes "less is be$t"...which is good for the wallet!

Cheers!

 

[Gelado`]

Yep, too much carbohydrate will actually inhibit bacteria, and I bet all of those contain carbs. I'm all about moderation and diversity, so I like to use a little of everything.

 

[Hash Zeppelin]

everybody here is a little confused. No one is mentioning mediums. Molasses is a slow breaking down sugar that should be used in soil. Over time it is broken down by beneficial bacteria and fungi that live in the soil. In hydroponics and coco you need to use something like Raw Sweet or Carboload. They are already broken down because it will not happen fast enough naturally in a hydroponic medium or coco. Thus using molasses in hydro or coco could actually cause a problem sometimes. However in your case it could be an overload as described above.

 

[Granger2]

Mo and other sugars are digested in the brewing of ACT.

 

[Hash Zeppelin]

ya if you brew a good tea or make a good compost then it will break down over time during the brew, and you will have great results. I would not recommend an organic tea for a hydroponic medium though.

 

[Gelado`]

I'm growing 50/50 coco/peat with good amounts of compost, and the rate of breakdown of amendments is incredible!

 

[EclipseFour20]

...I would not recommend an organic tea for a hydroponic medium though.

Or...Raw Milk for that matter...lol.

 

[al70]

shit lads, i'm confused now, am i waisting my time adding mo. to coco in the last two weeks of flush or what ? from what i'm reading here the only benefit the plants are getting from mo. is the small amount of nutrient that it carries, carbs won't be absorbed in coco, is that right ?

 

[Gelado`]

Do an A:B test and see for yourself al! Run a few with and a few without and see if it makes a difference. A lot of people here would be interested in your results!

 

[al70]

MO works great in Coco when used with bat guano and worm castings. I've used it for years. Think of the MO as being a food source for the beneficial bacteria in guano. Not for the plant itself.

If you're using Coco by itself MO is probably pointless.

That's cleared thing's up for me, cheers

 

[Gelado`]

True, but how consistent can LST be between different plants, even if they are clones? I'd trust untrained clones better, but with a larger sample size (two of each isn't much).

 

[Granger2]

Originally Posted by the hollow:

MO works great in Coco when used with bat guano and worm castings. I've used it for years. Think of the MO as being a food source for the beneficial bacteria in guano. Not for the plant itself.

If you're using Coco by itself MO is probably pointless.

I disagree. The microherd in your medium will make the nutes in the MO available to the plants. If your herd is weak, it will feed them and make them proliferate. -granger

 

[Gelado`]

True, but how much of a herd do you really have when using chem nutes?

 

[Granger2]

Gelado,
It can be nurtured. It's not like a total wipeout of the herd. MO will help them multiply. -granger

 

[Gelado`]

True, it isn't a complete wipeout, but chem nutes are supposed to hurt their numbers. I'd like to see a side-by-side grow with MO and chem nutes (maybe a coco A&B) and just chem nutes alone.

 

[al70]

True, it isn't a complete wipeout, but chem nutes are supposed to hurt their numbers. I'd like to see a side-by-side grow with MO and chem nutes (maybe a coco A&B) and just chem nutes alone.

Exactly what i'm gonna do when i get my tent together guys.

 

[Sativa Dragon]

I know that Molasses is good for dirt, I am doing a lot of reading on permaculture and this thread is very interesting to me.

Peace

 

[northerngrafta]

We aren't really trying to simulate mother nature we are trying to out do it the only thing in mother nature we are trying to simulate is the sun but let's leave that to philips. The yields people achieve on here smash any yield achieved by mother nature. What works for people works I worked out years ago working behind a hydrostore counter that there doesn't seem to be a right or wrong way to grow cause so many people do so much stuff that the next grower isn't doing so he says is wrong but if it's workin for the first grower it isn't wrong. I tried for ages to copy all the little tweaks people were tellin me they were doing but most times I never saw a difference probably because I didn't have there setup

 

[Scottish Research]

I appreciate the disagreement.

The key is to grow in a manner that best suites ones environment in relation to the genetics being grown.

Just because a placebo works on a human does not mean that we can project its efficacy on plants, because they don't think.

I know pro AEROPONIC growers that use both chem and organic ferts to improve yields and product.


R.Fortune

 

[Sativa Dragon]

Natures process as it applies to molasses as I understand it is, most plants if left alone in nature will foster an environment around them, attracting beneficial insects flora and fauna, with Molasses you are feeding the flora, which inturn helps the plant to foster that environment.

Adding molasses for the soil flora is a lot like planting a plant next to your crop like lima beans that emit a scent that attracts the enemy of spider mites once the mites invasion begins, insect shows up eats all the bugs.

Lima beans are like molasses except for the flora in the soil.

Peace