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Terpenation at Terpene Station

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Once the oil becomes so thick that it strings out when still warm, like too much mozzarella on a hot slice of pizza, its going to shatter up once fully cooled and cured. IME it may be hard to the touch but it takes a while to set up full strength. I like to wait a couple hours before messing with it unless I need to test dab... lol

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Here is some Ole Betsy done using the same method.

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FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
here is what it looks like when the pool is too thick. Notice the translucent waxy look. This can be remedied by re flashing and then rolling the puddle out thin before cooling. The thin film also ensures a lighter color....

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Last years outdoor material was turned into kief last winter. Bits of green still in the oil made it green up. Then it was passed to me for ressurection from its icy deep freezer isolation to see what could be done. It smells of hash from the netherlands. Which I understand now as lacking in terpenes giving that hashy floral smell. A few quick heat flashes and it came around in the looks department. A dab of it sent me into a couch coma for a bit... Here is the end result...

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FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Honey Bears

Honey Bears

A cake lifter aka oil shovel I picked up for 9$, this thing is awesome... 9.5"x8"

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And a petri full of mystery crystals. .. Gritty like sand.. under the scope they are crystals. Extracted from AA+ buds with no heat and sub zero temps. It is very potent, how potent is tbd. All I know is that its probably the most potent oil Ive ever dabbed and dabs ultra smooth. You almost dont know you just killed a .2 dab its that smooth... I may flash a sample of it to see what it shatters up like...

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FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I have a videos of the flashing process for anyone saying that it didnt happen. I will gladly make more videos when I get another set of hands to help.. . Ill be back with more :)

Respect,

FE
 

Dynamite

Member
great thread ! Only made it thru about 15pages so far .. been making BHO all week the old fashion way ,packing tubes & blowing cans .. then vac purging

I never have taken my oil above 120-130 , but after seeing how you cleaned that stuff up by thinning it out and going 160 , I'm going to give it whirl ..Thanks!
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
can anyone explain or have a link to the scientific explanation for what occurs when achieving certain oil forms of cannabis?

From what Ive read it doesnt seem to hold true after I was able to use high heat and get shatter, or take a wax and turn it into shatter. Instead of breaking down under high heat it which I have seen using the oven, its solidifies. The wax seems to lose its bond after the high heat flash, maybe due to the water being flashed out? Freshly dried material seems to be harder to rock up, I think because the trichome heads outer layer is dried but the inside of it is still most likely goo. Giving the oil an extra runny and fragrant quality. I also noticed that when purging in the vac oven f I place the oil between two sheets of parchment that I can sitll get a good purge but the oil retains its terpene profile much better than if I didnt cover it. Same oils from the same batch that were not covered were probably 30 percent less fragrant. And several days later about 50%...

just thought Id share some of my thoughts and findings in hopes that someone could shed some light on the subject for me.

thanks in advance,


FE
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
I have many times remelted resin at 180-200f, and it remained fragile,
but if we allow overheating with the release of bubbles, and fragility is gone forever.
 

Momerath

Active member
Great findings FE!

I have also made similar observations regarding using higher than normal heat flashes to turn waxy extracts to shatter. I have one strain that loves to wax up around 80-100f, the only way to get it clear and hard is to add that extra heat.
Prolonged heat will def make an extract softer, stickier, and less fragrant, but the quick heat flash doesnt seem to affect it nearly as much.

I can also agree on letting shatter sit out for a while to harden. Yes it is handle-able right out of the vac, but then I stick it in a clean, dust free cabinet for about 24 hours and when I come back to it, it is harder and breaks easier than it did the day before. I have my theories on why this is but not scientific data to back them up, so I will keep them to myself for now, for fear of spreading incorrect info and looking like a jackass :tiphat:

Also love that oil shovel. I've been using 4" paint scrapers to good effect but seeing that thing, I think its time to upgrade :laughing:
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
for about 24 hours and when I come back to it, it is harder and breaks easier than it did the day before.

Maybe it is the growth of the single crystal THCa demanded some time?

I hope that FatherEarth will continue to study the crystallization of resin, :thank you:
And soon in his magnificent photographs of the microscopy
We will see clues of many mysteries.
 
OMG, so we finally stopped laughing enough to post. First off, we are all dumber due to FE's posts.

it would seem FE can't make shatter and so he finds ways to sorta replicate what shatter might look like by doing stupid shit like flashing his wax at high heat which also decarbs your oil to some degree. look at his gloves in the one picture and you'll notice shit is stuck to them. shatter will not be sticky enough to do that. i also think he cheats on his pics. one of them looks like two different slabs where he dumped one on another. bottom line, take what the dude says with a grain of salt.

if your oil waxes, you did something wrong. plain and simple.

FE really doesn't know what he is doing. he is impatient/lazy and cuts corners. most people on here aren't going to know that simply because you are on here, which means you probably are just starting out. so he sounds like he knows what he is doing when in reality he doesn't.

i believe FE use to be on EA, but they laughed him off the website with posts like this.

the whole using parchment on the top of your oil is moronic and opinion based. there is no way to base how much smell you might lose... it is so subjective and without a real way of measuring, you are simply pulling numbers out of your ass, which FE seems to do often.

bottom line if you are looking to become a better oil maker... please ignore FE.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Spite Club, Mr. Burden

Spite Club, Mr. Burden

Mr Burden:
"Ok now! Please subtract 2 points from your IQ for every year you are over 16 for listening to FE. Not to worry you can gain those back after looking at my instagram. And now everyone please form a single file line to follow me on Instagram! Please ladies and gentlemen watch your step!
World Class Extractioneer at your service!"

You know durden... you should have chosen a different character from your favorite movie. Bob would have been much more appropriate.
I havent a clue what EA is and because my gloves are dirty? Lol yea should have put on fresh gloves for each photo. Thing is Durd, Im not afraid to be wrong or ask questions. Im the first one to admit I dont know everything and I dont have all the answers. I will do what comes to mind and feels right. I refuse to let a hired hand try and shame me for coming here to post and share my observations while you profit off off others ideas and contribute drama and shit that doesnt work. Ive got a hunch who your sock puppet is too. You should stick to your instasham where you have people to follow you and tell you how awesome you are for doing what everyone else has already done. Contribute much lately? Instead of trying to answer any of the questions or add anything useful you wasted your energy trying to humiliate. You should do what you do best and pack tubes and follow instructions. This is the last time I will address you directly. Ive just gotten word there is an ignore button for troll mooks like yourself. Tough guys behind keyboards crack me up. I can tell by the way you talk you are really as friendly as a box of puppies.:cathug: Keep up the good work!


With all due disrespect,

FE
 
you are just pulling tricks to make your stuff look better than it really is. you are deceptive, and in the process, you are introducing crappy techniques to those who are learning.

well, you shouldn't be afraid to be wrong as you often are. so we are clear, you are not a good oil maker. there should be no misunderstanding this. the fact that your stuff waxes up is proof right there. rather than working on your fundamentals, you try to find half assed ways of fixing your mistakes. your oil might look like shatter after your high temp shenanigans, but it isn't.

a hired hand? what the hell are you talking about? you should be ashamed of the garbage you post. well, i would be.

oh, the whole profiting off others ideas. not a new concept and you apparently are not smart enough to do it yourself. no, i don't bring drama, i just call out YOU on your garbage methods.

my methods work well although there are many ways to skin a cat. at least with ours, there are fundamental reason as to why we do what we do. maybe they are too complicated for you?

i think i did a service my letting people know you are an idiot, and why you are. you just pull so much stupid shit out of your hat that i wonder how/why you are still making oil.

and i do answer questions and provide info as to how we do it. the fundamentals of making oil won't ever change much, it is all about limiting factors and repeatability. you on the other hand have all this equipment but no knowledge on how to make good oil. if you did, you would be making shatter right out of the gate. but we know you aren't.

i certainly don't need validation by others. i get that every time i sell my product. i would like to see people have a good starting point on how to do things. to understand if they aren't getting shatter, what is wrong with their process, etc.

tough guy? i'm just better at making oil than you. that much is clear. hey, i'm just sorry you are an idiot
 

nakadashi

Member
I was looking into liquid-liquid extraction recently and discovered that plant waxes as they exist on the leaf are "microcrystalline" structures, and that paraffin waxes are macrocrystalline... I am not really sure what this means but maybe it will shed some light onto the nature of these sugary extracts.
 

northstate

Member
ICMag Donor
Positive notes from the ranch.

Positive notes from the ranch.

Booyah! The Terp has been broken in! The no.4 valve from T.C.I. (yellow) had a pretty mean leak that did not show up on the pressure test because it only leaked when open under pressure. Yikes! So after that little adventure, recovered and tightened the threaded valve part below the handle nut which gave an 1/8th of a turn. Had a great next run so really excited to get things going.
FE has a lot of stuff to contribute and started this here thread and I would like to personally thank him for my sightglass and Megaflow hoses plus many other tidbits that he contributes through trial and error, which is how its done. The Regis can tapping method was flawless and thanks again to GW for this amazing piece of equipment! Durden, you don't have to make oil like FE what gives?
:woohoo:
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FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
If I was being deceptive to make myself look good then why would I post my mistakes? To insinuate Im faking it for the internet is really reaching. I must admit that got under my skin. I have nothing to prove or gain by faking shatter. WTF? I have a video of it and will post it for your pleasure. You havent shared a thing or detailed your method. You keep saying we is how I know your part of somebodys scene. Ashamed of what? That you dont like my oil? Someone who carries shame has something to prove/hide. You claim Im doing it all wrong but provide no correction. Sounds like you are setting on the puppet masters lap getting direction. So lets make it clear none of the methods I post are valid and I did not graduate spite club's rigorous extraction training, that qualifies you as an Extractioneer, lol. Point out what is bullshit again so others can be clear on it.
Then I will be sure and show you that its ok to have a different approach and even have your own ideas about things. Trying to attack my credibility because you never heard of something or cant even explain it is senseless .Tell your boss to sign in and let us know how to do it right since you dont have the answer. I tell you show me the right way and crap falls out of your mouth and you make a lame excuse. Dont talk about it be about it. Whats the proper way to do it. If you dont have an answer that is helpful, it will only confirm your status as a terp bus boy. show up or kick rocks. :moon:
 

nakadashi

Member
Looking real good northstate! I initially had a leak on valve #4 too, what a weird coincidence. How long did you leave the system under vac for to get that muffin in the collection pot?
 

Dynamite

Member
so I tried flashing some shatter I had that wasn't as clear as I like (was not winterized oil) , and one batch it did bring substantial clarity to , and the other it made the waxy look to it get worse .. so , strain dependent

I normally run 10 different strains when I set out time to make errl , and every batch of the same strain looks the same every time, very consistent , but every strain comes out different .. my uk cheese waxes up before you can even scrape it out of the pan , and chemdawg#4 stays PURE shatter no matter what you do to it , and I have others that you can manipulate either way , most I can manipulate either way , except for the above mentioned 2
 

northstate

Member
ICMag Donor
Hehehe. ( Rubs hands together in excitement)
Nakadashi: Left things under hard vac for ten minutes, no heat or dry ice

FE: That is the 1.5" from BrewersHrdware with new Viton gaskets via Glacier. That run was a 140g and flooded three times with a dump at the end direct from the manual. I will be keeping notes now and packing more in, plus experimenting with your methods of flood/drain too. Yield was just above 13%(trim) and put it under vac in the chamber and let it warm up and broke it a few times and my first dab of that Terp run was a VERY floral BlueDream hit. Thanks for the info again everybody.
 

Lebniis

Member
Northstate, looking good. Congrats!

May I suggest trying the "pour method"? It involves ditching the cooking pot, using dry ice on the recovery tank and stopping the recovering at around -10/15 hg to open the collection pot and pour it into a pyrex dish. The collection pot will become severely iced up to the point that the butane remains liquid to facilitate the pouring. At the same time, the waxes that were dissolved in the extraction, precipitate out of the liquid in the collection pot and can be filtered when pouring into the pyrex dish.

The benefit is less mess, increased production, no disturbing from scraping and of course frequent refilling of the tank (If you are using canned butane it is still worth it cost wise). I've found it to be much more efficient then the scraping and full recovery that we are familiar with. Put the pyrex in the vacuum oven/chamber and finish as you wish.

FE, Durden- You've both been helpful. I'd suggest not caring what each other says as you both have valid points. Durden, you haven't posted any pictures (and I get why), but FE has you on that. Call it stupid if you wish, but at least they are there for discussion. Durden, thanks for suggesting the pour method.

FE, can you explain why you are using heat that high? I think that the things you could be doing during the extraction such as super cold temps (which I know you are doing) would prevent this waxing. FE, have you tried the pour method?
 
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