Terpenation at Terpene Station

[Momerath]

This looks more like what we need. Although if running with dry ice, you may be pushing your luck as the min temp rating is -65f. Seems like it would work. Butane and PTFE have an A compatibility rating according to Cole-Parmer.

http://www.amazon.com/Unisource-Sta...ressure/dp/B0063LVHZ2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1

http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance

 

[SneakySneaky]

fe, still havent gotten a better camera, taking a break from the woods to pick up something special....thats not a trash can on the left its the base of the mk5! wish ya a good season

 

[mr. durden]

i've started running a large filter drier on the input side of the system between the IIIa and butane tank. even though we also have a filter drier before the appion, we somehow got some water in our tank. no idea how as we always run with the filter even when pulling from atmosphere.

looking into using a take apart filter so that we can use a filter that will hold a lot of water just in case

 

[nakadashi]

i've started running a large filter drier on the input side of the system between the IIIa and butane tank. even though we also have a filter drier before the appion, we somehow got some water in our tank. no idea how as we always run with the filter even when pulling from atmosphere.

looking into using a take apart filter so that we can use a filter that will hold a lot of water just in case

What's the "take apart filter" called? Sounds very useful. The filters are filled with desiccants like activated alumina which I think can only holds a certain amount of water before it won't take anymore, so maybe that's why there is water in your tank. I don't know of any way to test how much life is left in the filters though.

Thx for the tip though i will def be pickin up another filter drier to prevent this issue.

 

[mr. durden]

just look up emerson filters on ebay and you'll see them. the nice thing about them is that you can replace the inner filter with a plethora of different types.

no, not due to the filter being full. i had blasted the last pound of butane out of the liquid port of my tank and some oily goo came out. then i ran a loop from a tank to the appion, to another tank with two large filter driers inline.

the oil we got was very bright and was starting to wax which is mostly due to water content. as soon as i added the drier before the IIIa, problem was solved. i think i need to open up my mastercool tank and clean it, just not sure if that is an easy process or not.

as for where this water is coming from, i am unsure. i always run a filter before the appion, drain the mastercool tank every month and vac it out for a good period of time... yet the end product look as if the butane were contaminated with water even though my inline sight glasses said otherwise. a mystery

 

[prune]

as for where this water is coming from, i am unsure. i always run a filter before the appion, drain the mastercool tank every month and vac it out for a good period of time... yet the end product look as if the butane were contaminated with water even though my inline sight glasses said otherwise. a mystery

Aaah, the mystery water. Maybe you should take pictures and start a facepalm page.

 

[vapor]

heaps of great info.. thanks

 

[nakadashi]

Woo MT69 finally came. I used it without ball valves because I couldn't wait! Not an huge difference in my recovery times, I didn't notice any change in the cycle times (resolution of my records is minutes, not seconds, so that could be it..) but it knocked about 15% off my final recovery.

Mr Durden do you use ball valves attached directly to the MT69 or are you using short recovery hoses? I was looking for a 1/4" female flare x 1/4" MPT but couldn't find anything that fit perfectly. I suspect 1/4" female flare is actually called something else... Do you use a fitting to connect the MT69 to the ball valve or just a hose?

 

[mr. durden]

are you using iced water with the mt69?

no, you are suppose to have the ball valves at the recovery cylinder and the appion. i use yellow jacket hoses and they came with ball valve assemblies.

you'll waste a lot of butane if you don't reclaim and it only takes about 15 sec once the hose configuration is changed to reclaim from the mt69

 

[nakadashi]

Yea I am using iced water. I think my expectations were just too high, I thought it was going to be a night/day difference. It does definitely make a difference as evident by the difference in temps for in/out.

Just ordered those hoses with the valves on them! Pretty sweet, i'm stoked to get em

 

[icdog]

Are you guys using SS mesh when you pack the columns now, top and bottom? I think I read someone said to not use these now just coffee filters.

 

[mr. durden]

it depends on whether or not you grind your material. grinding and using SS mesh will build up enough pressure to cause a leak at a connection point. i use 6 filters on either end and can still manage 150g in the column

 

[FatherEarth]

Get a sanitary orifice gasket with some 20 mesh then add ss mesh of you choice over that. Im using 400 mesh. .. Ive never clogged a gasket, and cant imagine being able to get enough pressure to blow one either. Unless you are running a hot tank of butane and then went inside for tea and snack cakes and left the number 4 valve open... I have seen a clog once when attempting to using cotton disks as filters..
no bueno

 

[FatherEarth]

Fine ss mesh in an orifice gasket will completely eliminate green material in your oil. No more green, brown, dark oil. . . If you run without a coffee filter its ridiculously faster. You can pack more into your column and it will still flood quickly. I would not grind the material if going w no paper filters. I wouldnt grind the material at all unless you are making RSO or have a way to not soak the column.. only quickly push butane through the material and only do 2 floods max, Id probably just go for 1 to be safe...

 

[icdog]

FE do you have a link for this orifice gasket? With this your not using the coffee filters?
I've got some trim thats pretty ground up from the trimmer but not with a grinder. After that I'll be using buds.

 

[FatherEarth]

"sanitary orifice plate gasket" google....

its a gasket that has the option to add screen or orifice plate with the tri clamp system...

i would post my source but ive learned that posting my sources here they quickly become sold out of the items i need, lol.. seriously though certain 1.5" tri clamp terp parts are are getting scarce..

pm me for more help.

 

[nakadashi]

How are you attaching the stainless mesh to the orifice plate? Do I dare dream that there a way to pop it open and sandwich the screen between two plates?

 

[FatherEarth]

you dont want the plates just the gasket thats where you add your ss fine mesh over a regular size mesh for strength. If you can find mesh filter gaskets that arent bonded thats what you want...

This is what Im talking about

http://www.rubberfab.com/products/sanitary-gaskets/screen-gaskets/screen-tc-gaskets

You can order directly from them and get filters that go in tri clamps down to 21 microns. Not saying it would work just mentioning they have whatever we would need...

 

[JColtrane]

Thanks

 

[FatherEarth]

So for those of you interested, here are some snaps of some heated extractions.
No frozen column was used, the tank was iced well with blocks of regular ice and dry ice to prolong the cooler hold. Indeed it was not subzero but certainly not warm butane. At the time I did not have enough time to freeze the columns so I decided to skip that. The end product was fairly fresh only being dried withing two weeks, the resulting oil was somewhat runny and resistant to hardening.
Several times of flashing with high heat and allowing to fully cool were needed to get it dry enough to shatter.
The good thing is the high heat does not boil off all terpenes, yes some but not all are lost since the heating is so quick. I use a heat gun but also have been using a butane torch to melt with.
Basically melt until it is runny and can drip or roll. As soon as you see it go super clear and bubble up pull back or risk roasting it. This takes only a few seconds, do not let the oil sit on something that will hold the heat you want it to cool off quickly but not so quick the top seals and traps the moisture that needs to escape. Using a thin layer cannot be stressed enough. It must be thin or you have to heat it too much and it will burn. Using this method I can turn a blob of poop like wax into clear shatter that has a strong enough odor to distinguish what cultivar it was derived from. When extracting from fresh material, I believe that when oil cools it requires a cure time to become stable. Leaving it under vacuum for several days is ok, but making sure that you do not close it up in a container is key. If you put it in a closed container you will return to something that is not shatter.
For me, this applies to all shatter methods Ive tried. For me at least it normally takes several days of sitting out in a clean dish on some parchment with a loose cover to keep dust off of it, before I can close it up. ..
My guess is that when the oil is too dry it will suck up moisture from atmosphere and become tacky, and if it is not cured it still has moisture to let off despite the outer layer being hardened. So if you enclose it , it sweats then becomes tacky... If anyone has similar experiences please share.

West Coast Dog Poo Wax

smear it to get it thin as possible

Hit it with some heat. dont worry about the temp just heat it til you see the oil react how we want. We want it to become runny and clear so the thin film is key or else itll come back waxy if its too thick, I believe this is due to not getting hot enough.