SirStynkalot
Member
Can't wait to see the results. I just got a wild thai seed recently and was debating whether I'd pop it or not.
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Question for 2k Vertical set-up/First post
- Thread starter Any2cards
- Start date
B
bigbufu
Hey otis thanks for the quick response. You think I should really cut the numbers in half and only flower with 8 babes ? I know there large but you think I can really hit between 6-7 oz per plant to get 3lbs ? I have a good amount of space to work with but only want to use 2 1000w I can do exact measurements if you want of the space. The strain fire og by the way.
-AJ
-AJ
SirStynkalot
Member
3 pounds from 2kw is about .7 gpw. Don't screw anything up too badly with pretty well any strain and you'll hit it.
You can basically use however many plants you want. The difference would be in veg time. More plants = less veg time = more harvests per year.
You can basically use however many plants you want. The difference would be in veg time. More plants = less veg time = more harvests per year.
O
otis33
it's never a good idea to count your chickens before they hatch, I was speaking from my personal experience of getting too many plants too big for the space. it's amazing sometimes how much a plant will stretch after flipping.
Hate to be the one to break it to ya, but 6-7 oz from the fire og is going to take some skill, and serious training. The questions you are asking in this thread lead me to believe you aren't there yet. I'd advise you do two vert donuts with 8 plants each. Veg them til they are about 18-20" tall and flip. Do your best to control environment and nutrient inputs. Be Happy with whatever you harvest.
SirStynkalot
Member
I missed that he was growing OG.
I retract my previous statement about pretty well any strain. That's one of the ones that falls outside that category.
And they're right - counting your chickens before they hatch is never a good idea. After you've done it a while and gotten your setup dialed, you'll be in a better position to guess what you can get.
But you see folks day in and day out running the exact same systems but pulling drastically different results. There's no substitute for experience and there's no way to guess what you'll get without it.
I retract my previous statement about pretty well any strain. That's one of the ones that falls outside that category.
And they're right - counting your chickens before they hatch is never a good idea. After you've done it a while and gotten your setup dialed, you'll be in a better position to guess what you can get.
But you see folks day in and day out running the exact same systems but pulling drastically different results. There's no substitute for experience and there's no way to guess what you'll get without it.
O
otis33
be happy to see a crop through to harvest no matter the yield, especially when you are new, any harvest is a good harvest. dial your environment, learn the needs of the strain you have, if you get the basics first everything well fall into place
B
bigbufu
Thanks everyone !
I appreciate how helpful everyone is here on IC MAG. I will definitely get up a grow journal within the next couple of days so all the vert vets. can give their input on how to improve my yield and harvest overall. I am a new member to this site but ive actually been a huge ic mag fan for the past couple of years. Im a coco head now thanks to guys like bobble,DHF,head etc. These guys and alot of others on IC MAG have helped me develop as a grower and hopefully others here can help me reach my potential and goals. I know I have alot to learn (as im not even of legal drinking age yet haha) but can't wait to give you guys a show. And of course props to ANY cant wait to see what you've got in store for us. Anywho.... times a ticking I better get to making some doughnuts
I appreciate how helpful everyone is here on IC MAG. I will definitely get up a grow journal within the next couple of days so all the vert vets. can give their input on how to improve my yield and harvest overall. I am a new member to this site but ive actually been a huge ic mag fan for the past couple of years. Im a coco head now thanks to guys like bobble,DHF,head etc. These guys and alot of others on IC MAG have helped me develop as a grower and hopefully others here can help me reach my potential and goals. I know I have alot to learn (as im not even of legal drinking age yet haha) but can't wait to give you guys a show. And of course props to ANY cant wait to see what you've got in store for us. Anywho.... times a ticking I better get to making some doughnuts
Indeed! I am looking forward to it! Check in every once in awhile!
Keep me posted on your set up as I would love to follow along! I am a noob and looking to learn a ton. Like Otis mentioned just getting to a harvest will be a feat.
Peace,
Any2
Transplanted into 7 gal smarts on the 16th. 12/12 on the 11th. All organic mineralized soil is my medium (HP pro mix). They should love the added real estate from the 1 gal pots. Recently developed clawing and folding inwards of the leaf. Temps 80/60 and RH 55/20 hi/lo. Going to give them just water until this issue gets sorted out. Dark green leaves as if they looked over watered and over fed(like a N toxicity) but that just doesn't make sense as I make sure they get dry. They have been in their new soil for just 5 days so hoping they straighten out. Thoughts?
Peace,
Any2
Peace,
Any2
B
bigbufu
Hey any
will definitely get my journal set up by the end of the week. I checked out your pics and when I usually see nitrogen tox. the leaves are super dark green and the leaves are brittle and of course the claw is a dead give away. Your pics do show the claw but it looks like there slouching down because there underwatered. When I looked at your second photo the plant in the back is dropping and the soil on top looks drier than a desert. When you transplanted did you give the soil a good run through of phed water or did you just give a little after you transplated them in ? I tend to find when I transplant without giving the medium a good rinse that my babes dry fast and begin to show signs of underwatering. I now always give my medium a good run through of my phed solution before putting my ladies into their larger . Im sure others will respond and give there input too.
-AJ
will definitely get my journal set up by the end of the week. I checked out your pics and when I usually see nitrogen tox. the leaves are super dark green and the leaves are brittle and of course the claw is a dead give away. Your pics do show the claw but it looks like there slouching down because there underwatered. When I looked at your second photo the plant in the back is dropping and the soil on top looks drier than a desert. When you transplanted did you give the soil a good run through of phed water or did you just give a little after you transplated them in ? I tend to find when I transplant without giving the medium a good rinse that my babes dry fast and begin to show signs of underwatering. I now always give my medium a good run through of my phed solution before putting my ladies into their larger . Im sure others will respond and give there input too.
-AJ
Thanks for the input AJ. I did give them a gallon of water the day of transplant and gave them a gallon last night and they still have the droopy look. I was hoping they would snap back after transplanting them and after watering them last night but that has not been the case. It has been 10 days since their feed and have been on straight water since then. Not sure what to make of it. They do look like they have an N tox tho.
Peace,
Any2
You are having VPD (vapor pressure deficit) issues from your HUGE swings in temp and humidity, probably nutrient issues also as a result of the VPD being off. Keep your temps day and night within 10 degs of each other, preferably closer to 5 deg difference. So 75-80 during the day and no lower than 70 at night. Humidity should stay between 50-60% day and night. Get those things sorted and life will be much easier.
Wow....interesting and makes alot of sense. They are swinging pretty hard and until I get my controller things will be dicey. I am winging it right now with just intervals manipulating exchange. I should ay the very least get my heater going. 72-62 ish lately in temps but I dont have a humidifier and only a dehuey which comes on when it senses the 65 mark. Anything I can do to bring in more humidity? Running 8pm to 8am but think the low RH levels come at night when it is colder? Maybe set a bucket of water in there? Should get my controller soon.
Peace,
Any2
A
AlterEgo860
ill say take care of ur temps first. usually wen u raise the temps ur plants will transpire a lil more.. making more humidity.. but if after temps. then if u need to raise ur humidity.
SirStynkalot
Member
I can't give a technical answer like these guys but I'd probably give the same advice.
That kind of drooping either means overwatering or strong shock/stress. I saw the same thing after big transplants when I was first starting out. Temperature stress and nuting with the transplant makes em take a lot longer to get over that initial shock. I used to have such rough conditions that it'd take about 10 days to recover from transplant shock instead of 2.
As you dial in the environment that problem will take care of itself in future grows. In the mean time just do as much as you can do with the most limiting variable for your grow (temps) and keep the feedings low to compensate for suboptimal environments and hopefully avoid lockout problems CAUSED by the environment. That should be a concern with those sort of temp swings, since they cause variable water uptake rates. If the water soluble nutes are available at a constant level but the plants need water variably, you can probably see how you could be in for some trouble a few weeks down the road. Not a problem in recirculating systems but it can become one in a DTW. Also, don't quote me on this but I think that variable temperatures messes with Ph a bit. It's not super exaggerated but it makes the problem worse.
I'd start with water and slowly add a low bloom nute dose through transition were I you, since it seems like you veg nuted pretty heavily and the plants have a lot of N built up. As I understand it, OGs are light and very picky feeders - you could have been nuting just fine for another strain but the OGs get toxic quickly. You'll have to adjust your feed schedule for the strain to compensate, and the problem's gonna be exaggerated since the setup's not dialed yet. Only way to get around it is to dial the setup over a series of grows. It's the price tag for experience.
To be honest, you probably shouldn't mess with the RH yet. RH stands for "relative humidity" - the amount of water in the air relative to max saturation for the temperature. Hot air holds more water than cold air, so the relative humidity at night would be a lot higher than during the day if you tried to compensate for it in some constant-output mcguyver fashion before you dialed temps. Ask any rose grower - those conditions tend to cause fungal outbreaks. Powdery mildew, especially.
If you're dead set on changing RH, the alternative to a bucket of water, a rag, and a fan is a household vaporizer machine or something similar (with a dispersion fan) on a timer, but just dumping straight 100% rh air into the room in a single spot can cause its own set of problems. Still, at least that way you don't have stagnant water open and sitting in the room and at least you can control it so it doesn't raise the nighttime RH levels.
Just my thoughts. I'd take other peoples' advice first. Still, lookin good! It's fun to watch the progress.
That kind of drooping either means overwatering or strong shock/stress. I saw the same thing after big transplants when I was first starting out. Temperature stress and nuting with the transplant makes em take a lot longer to get over that initial shock. I used to have such rough conditions that it'd take about 10 days to recover from transplant shock instead of 2.
As you dial in the environment that problem will take care of itself in future grows. In the mean time just do as much as you can do with the most limiting variable for your grow (temps) and keep the feedings low to compensate for suboptimal environments and hopefully avoid lockout problems CAUSED by the environment. That should be a concern with those sort of temp swings, since they cause variable water uptake rates. If the water soluble nutes are available at a constant level but the plants need water variably, you can probably see how you could be in for some trouble a few weeks down the road. Not a problem in recirculating systems but it can become one in a DTW. Also, don't quote me on this but I think that variable temperatures messes with Ph a bit. It's not super exaggerated but it makes the problem worse.
I'd start with water and slowly add a low bloom nute dose through transition were I you, since it seems like you veg nuted pretty heavily and the plants have a lot of N built up. As I understand it, OGs are light and very picky feeders - you could have been nuting just fine for another strain but the OGs get toxic quickly. You'll have to adjust your feed schedule for the strain to compensate, and the problem's gonna be exaggerated since the setup's not dialed yet. Only way to get around it is to dial the setup over a series of grows. It's the price tag for experience.
To be honest, you probably shouldn't mess with the RH yet. RH stands for "relative humidity" - the amount of water in the air relative to max saturation for the temperature. Hot air holds more water than cold air, so the relative humidity at night would be a lot higher than during the day if you tried to compensate for it in some constant-output mcguyver fashion before you dialed temps. Ask any rose grower - those conditions tend to cause fungal outbreaks. Powdery mildew, especially.
If you're dead set on changing RH, the alternative to a bucket of water, a rag, and a fan is a household vaporizer machine or something similar (with a dispersion fan) on a timer, but just dumping straight 100% rh air into the room in a single spot can cause its own set of problems. Still, at least that way you don't have stagnant water open and sitting in the room and at least you can control it so it doesn't raise the nighttime RH levels.
Just my thoughts. I'd take other peoples' advice first. Still, lookin good! It's fun to watch the progress.
That's true especially with young plants. In the 70's when I 1st started I always wondered why my seedlings fell over when I was treating them with utmost care - most likely poor air circulation/high humidity & overwatering with a bit of rootbound added in there. There are cautions to take when you put the humidity past 60% or so like making sure you have enough air circulation and your carbon filter loses efficiency after 60% RH and doesn't work at all past 85% RH. I realized my humidity of 50-55% is way too low for temps when they climb past the mid 70's in the daytime period. To get and keep humidity @ 65% or so I'm ordering these:
Sunlight Supply - Centrifugal Humidifier (Hr-15) (700860) for 160-320 sq ft
Titan EOS 1 Humidity Controller (702605)
VPD is very important, you don't need to be exactly in the sweet spot and crank your humidifier & AC up, but in the general range. You also should know leaf temps (it can vary so you need a decent average) too, here's Alien Dawg's post on VPD: Yellowing leaf/ leaf rolls ? VPD might have somthing ta do with it. VPD notes. - What is Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD)?
Here's a "quick chart" I made to see what humidity you should be at when temps get to 78 degrees F and more:
Vapor pressure deficit range:
90 degrees - 75% humidity - 11.9 VPD
88 degrees - 75% humidity - 11.2 VPD
86 degrees - 75% humidity - 10.6 VPD
85 degrees - 70% humidity - 12.4 VPD
84 degrees - 70% humidity - 12.0 VPD
83 degrees - 70% humidity - 11.7 VPD
82 degrees - 70% humidity - 11.4 VPD
81 degrees - 65% humidity - 12.4 VPD
81 degrees - 70% humidity - 10.7 VPD
80 degrees - 65% humidity - 12.1 VPD
80 degrees - 70% humidity - 10.4 VPD
79 degrees - 65% humidity - 11.8 VPD
79 degrees - 70% humidity - 10.1 VPD
78 degrees - 65% humidity - 11.4 VPD
78 degrees - 70% humidity - 9.8 VPD
I don't like to go past 65% RH myself but having the VPD too high can just introduce another set of different problems.
As it turns out by keeping 65% RH, you'd be good for the night too (no need to change RH the whole day):
77 degrees - 65% humidity - 11.1 VPD
77 degrees - 70% humidity - 9.5 VPD
76 degrees - 60% humidity - 12.3 VPD
76 degrees - 65% humidity - 10.8 VPD
76 degrees - 70% humidity - 9.2 VPD
75 degrees - 60% humidity - 11.9 VPD
75 degrees - 65% humidity - 10.4 VPD
75 degrees - 70% humidity - 8.9 VPD
74 degrees - 60% humidity - 11.6 VPD
74 degrees - 65% humidity - 10.2 VPD
74 degrees - 70% humidity - 8.7 VPD
73 degrees - 60% humidity - 11.3 VPD
73 degrees - 65% humidity - 9.9 VPD
73 degrees - 70% humidity - 8.5 VPD
72 degrees - 55% humidity - 11.9 VPD
72 degrees - 60% humidity - 10.5 VPD
72 degrees - 65% humidity - 9.2 VPD
72 degrees - 70% humidity - 7.9 VPD
70 degrees - 50% humidity - 12.4 VPD
70 degrees - 55% humidity - 11.1 VPD
70 degrees - 60% humidity - 9.9 VPD
70 degrees - 65% humidity - 8.6 VPD
68 degrees - 50% humidity - 11.7 VPD
68 degrees - 55% humidity - 10.6 VPD
68 degrees - 60% humidity - 9.4 VPD
68 degrees - 65% humidity - 8.2 VPD
66 degrees - 45% humidity - 12.1 VPD
66 degrees - 50% humidity - 11.0 VPD
66 degrees - 55% humidity - 9.9 VPD
66 degrees - 60% humidity - 8.8 VPD
B
bigbufu
any updates any ? did you get issues handled ?
Hey everyone,
Thanks for all the replies. Have been super busy with life and getting this all dialed in but things are looking up and are headed in the right direction.
I do believe that there were multiple issues that caused an avalanche of problems and putting them into a shock. Horrific temp swings(bad environment), switched to 12/12, transplant shock, a floramite drench, root bound, N tox and everything else that was mentioned etc. and it was all at once. I simply replaced the fan intake/exhaust timer that had 15 minute intervals with a cycle timer that reacted on temp and that has things stabalized now. Temps 77-65 ish and RH runs 60-40 hi/lo. The new growth shows non curling leaves and looks very good. The curled leaves will never go away but they are not necrotic and still dark green.
Made a few adjustments to the cages as well as they were just to big so I made them a bit smaller.
Let me fetch some pics.
Peace,
Any2
Thanks for all the replies. Have been super busy with life and getting this all dialed in but things are looking up and are headed in the right direction.
I do believe that there were multiple issues that caused an avalanche of problems and putting them into a shock. Horrific temp swings(bad environment), switched to 12/12, transplant shock, a floramite drench, root bound, N tox and everything else that was mentioned etc. and it was all at once. I simply replaced the fan intake/exhaust timer that had 15 minute intervals with a cycle timer that reacted on temp and that has things stabalized now. Temps 77-65 ish and RH runs 60-40 hi/lo. The new growth shows non curling leaves and looks very good. The curled leaves will never go away but they are not necrotic and still dark green.
Made a few adjustments to the cages as well as they were just to big so I made them a bit smaller.
Let me fetch some pics.
Peace,
Any2
