Broad Mites?

[Some old dude]

Yup

Yup

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...R7S8qNoYzMUJOQ
after reading above link it seems kontos isnt nearly as effective on bms as avid or pylon or proclaim.
I havent gone chemical yet but fked if im gonna start again just cant bring myself to do it.I grow only veg indoors and flower outside.
To the peeps who had sucsess with kontos ,was that as a preventative or was that in already in a compromised grow?

Yup, it actually said that Forbid/Judo was better than both kontos or avid.GL with your fight .

 

[RetroGrow]

Heat alone will not CURE BM. If you listen to these internet growers you will waste time and money. Dont listen to these people that recommend smoking chemicals or cancer causing TALCUM POWDER! U ARE A COMPLETE LUKE RETRO BRO AND WILL BE CONSIDERED AN ACCESSORY after the fact. KEEP RECOMMENDING SMOKING HEAVY METALS. MY krew wld never smoke tacum powder.. these thread is beyond dead. SMOKE FUNGIS LEWIS> UNBELIEVABLE. DELETE THIS THREAD NOW!

You should be deleted, troll.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Total BS. You cannot see BMs without a lens.

I have very good eye site, i saw a couple that crawled to the tip of the growth it was like seeing a spec of dust move, then i got a lens and it was broad mites. So clearly your wrong.

 

[oceangrownkush]

God damn this thread went to shit..... Seriously so much good info but so difficult to sift it from the bullshit. I am just glad I got the required reading in, the proper links saved and now its just a matter of keeping the eyes peeled and doing that maintenance.

Doing a maintenance spray at lights off in 20 minutes, Essentria IC3 oil + Indicate5 since last nights experiments concluded this shit will bead hard AF. Good news is it didn't burn anything and smells like minty root beer. Covering all work surfaces and all leaf surfaces.. Then again in 3 days, then again in 3 days, then again in 3 days.........

 

[Storm Shadow]

http://www.scnla.com/PDFs/May-June 2012 for Web.pdf

Insecticide Classes
and
Modes of Action​

Group 23:​

Inhibitors of acetyl-CoA carboxylase

Spirotetramat is a tetramic acid derivative developed by Bayer Crop Science. Currently, only one product – Kontos™ (marketed by OHP) – is available for uses on ornamental plants and non-bearing fruit and nut trees in greenhouse, nursery and interiorscape, as well as vegetable transplants grown in greenhouses. The target pests of Kontos include adelgids, aphids, leafhoppers, mealybugs, psyllids, rust mites, spider mites, scale insects (crawlers), tarsonemid mites, spittlebugs, thrips (immature), and whiteflies. Kontos is not recommended for applications on [FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic][FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic]Dracaena[/FONT][/FONT], Cordyline, ferns, geraniums ([FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic][FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic]Pelargonium [/FONT][/FONT]spp.), hoya, orchids, neanthebella palm, and Schefflera. Additional plant species has restriction on spray frequency; please see the label for details.

Although spiromesifen (Judo and Forbid) and spirotetramat (Kontos) belong to the same IRAC MOA Group, they have several important differences in activities that influence their practical uses. First, spiromesifen is active against mites and whiteflies, while spirotetramat is active against a broad range of sucking insects, mites and thrips. The use of spiromesifen against scale insects is NOT effective. Second, spiromesifen is translaminar (i.e. chemical applied foliar on the upper leaf surface can be absorbed and transported to the lower leaf surface, or vice versa), while spirotetramat is fully systemic (i.e. phloem- and xylem-mobile). As a result, spiromesifen is used as foliar sprays but spirometramat can be used in soil drenches and foliar sprays. Another important characteristic of spirotetramat is that this is a systemic insecticide with slow movement in plant vascular tissues. Depending on the plant and pest species, it may take two weeks or more to observe a reduction in pest population. Therefore, it is important to use spirotetramat in the early stage of infestation or on small plants to allow the active ingredient to be translocated to the entire plant.

 

[Jahfreeze]

http://www.scnla.com/PDFs/May-June 2012 for Web.pdf

Insecticide Classes
and
Modes of Action​

Group 23:​

Inhibitors of acetyl-CoA carboxylase

Spirotetramat is a tetramic acid derivative developed by Bayer Crop Science. Currently, only one product – Kontos™ (marketed by OHP) – is available for uses on ornamental plants and non-bearing fruit and nut trees in greenhouse, nursery and interiorscape, as well as vegetable transplants grown in greenhouses. The target pests of Kontos include adelgids, aphids, leafhoppers, mealybugs, psyllids, rust mites, spider mites, scale insects (crawlers), tarsonemid mites, spittlebugs, thrips (immature), and whiteflies. Kontos is not recommended for applications on [FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic][FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic]Dracaena[/FONT][/FONT], Cordyline, ferns, geraniums ([FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic][FONT=Century Gothic,Century Gothic]Pelargonium [/FONT][/FONT]spp.), hoya, orchids, neanthebella palm, and Schefflera. Additional plant species has restriction on spray frequency; please see the label for details.

Although spiromesifen (Judo and Forbid) and spirotetramat (Kontos) belong to the same IRAC MOA Group, they have several important differences in activities that influence their practical uses. First, spiromesifen is active against mites and whiteflies, while spirotetramat is active against a broad range of sucking insects, mites and thrips. The use of spiromesifen against scale insects is NOT effective. Second, spiromesifen is translaminar (i.e. chemical applied foliar on the upper leaf surface can be absorbed and transported to the lower leaf surface, or vice versa), while spirotetramat is fully systemic (i.e. phloem- and xylem-mobile). As a result, spiromesifen is used as foliar sprays but spirometramat can be used in soil drenches and foliar sprays. Another important characteristic of spirotetramat is that this is a systemic insecticide with slow movement in plant vascular tissues. Depending on the plant and pest species, it may take two weeks or more to observe a reduction in pest population. Therefore, it is important to use spirotetramat in the early stage of infestation or on small plants to allow the active ingredient to be translocated to the entire plant.

Stop....
Theres no cure.
We grow cannabis correct? How long does yr cannabis plant take. How long does it take BM to colonize. Can you grow 2+lb a light with BM = NO. Can you w no BM=YES! Take advantage of what you do.... pick yr battles. would you battle a complete infestation of spider mites? How long does it take to completely rid... chemical or not? What is the overall goal here... push a cycle threw or save geno? Look.... if i get ANY prob... throw them away..start over. More weight off seed. INCORPORATE PREDATOR MITES IN VEG. HIRE FOOT Soldiers. BREEEEEEEED FOOOT SOLDIERS.= $0.0. RETRO BRO SMOKE TALC. Chime back in 5 years.

 

[Jahfreeze]

I have very good eye site, i saw a couple that crawled to the tip of the growth it was like seeing a spec of dust move, then i got a lens and it was broad mites. So clearly your wrong.

You are a complete KUKE! Stop growing. Instead of pretending smoke talc.

 

[Jahfreeze]

Aspirin stimulates the plant's immune system.
OGB doesn't combat PM.

YES> YOU WILL GET PM WITH ELEVATED HUMIDITY. BASIC 101. RETRO BRO HAS AN IROn problem. he likes to eat baby powder and smoke talc powder. Its called PICA DISORDER. AKA complete KUKE. AKA KILL HOMIES.

 

[Gifted0ne]

All you are doing is posting bad information. You are either tripping or delusional. BMs are microscopic, and can't be seen with your eyes. Predator mites, yes. Broad mites, NO. IMPOSSIBLE!

Im 100% certain i saw two mites with my eyes. I do not have spider mites or predator mites. Damage is only in new growth area's as well as the disease they spread. Whether its a cyclamen/broad/russet mites I have seen them with my eyes.. period

Like im going to just fkin make it up. So many douche bags on this site.

 

[yerboyblue]

Copy and Paste:
Everyone will tell you that you can not see a Cyclamen mite with your naked eye
But this is just not true, if you have 20/20 vision (but they are almost invisible)
(The debut continues on if you can see mites or not, some university sites
states that you CAN see them, and yet some say you CAN'T see them)
Although a 20x or a 30x magnifying lens will make it much easier
Yes, they are very small, about 1/100th inch long, with good eyes you can see them moving.
You can gently blow on the leaves and look to see if anything is moving around

I SAW THEM WITHOUT AND WITH LENS.. SO FK OFF

I've seen them too without a lens. I only saw one, it was soooooo tiny, barely visible, my face was probably 6 inches away from the plant. Just a tiny white speck that could be mistaken for a dust particle. I blew a little and it crawled. Then I broke out the 100x scope and took a look and saw 100's of them. "Their not Broad Mites then." No, they are. I suspect it was a mature one that I saw, for whatever reason this one was bigger than the rest. Hell, maybe it was a couple doing the deed, I don't know. Heck, they are about the same size as the resin glands present on vegging plants, and I can see those looking real close on new growth.

That being said, I would never rely on my naked eye for diagnosing whether I had BM or not.

Also, I'm not trying to get involved in this argument and name calling that has taken place over the past several pages of this thread, that has basically buried any useful information. Disagree with the person and move the fuck on for the sake of everyone. Sorry if someone had a different experience than you or might be wrong, is it your job to make sure everyone knows it and is that going to work by calling bullshit and names back and forth? Everyone involved needs to chill the fuck out and get this thread back on topic, because the shit is important.

 

[RetroGrow]

I suspect it was a mature one that I saw, for whatever reason this one was bigger than the rest.

The one big one you saw was probably a predator, which are barely visible, but are bigger than Broads. Anywhere there are BMs outside, you will also have predators. Predators can get into your house too. However, it is much easier to see the eggs under the leaves than it is to see the mites themselves. The mites are good at hiding. Eggs can't hide. So looking for eggs is probably a better idea.

 

[yerboyblue]

Thanks Retro, that's probably what we have going on, you see the predator and then scope everything and see the tons of BMs, hence you think the big one is a BM as well. Makes sense to me.

 

[MrDank]

I could see the Broad Mites on my plants. Give the guy a break. I had broad mites. They fucked up my entire garden. I lost my entire mother collection do to them.

And yes, I could certainly see them with my naked eyes. I also have 20/20 vision, and would have to squint and hold focus for a minute till I could see them, but I could certianly see them. It really helped me guage how effective certain pesticides were working for me

blind folks be hatin'

 

[yerboyblue]

It's not the 20/20 vision that you need, it's the up close vision that helps. I can't see shit far away without glasses, but can really well up close.

 

[mojave green]

Also, I'm not trying to get involved in this argument and name calling that has taken place over the past several pages of this thread, that has basically buried any useful information. Disagree with the person and move the fuck on for the sake of everyone. Sorry if someone had a different experience than you or might be wrong, is it your job to make sure everyone knows it and is that going to work by calling bullshit and names back and forth? Everyone involved needs to chill the fuck out and get this thread back on topic, because the shit is important.

and on that note;
probly most important are the preventative measures:
https://www.icmag.com/modules/Tutorials/PlantTrouble/1552.htm

Don't introduce mites to your room! Check other houseplants for mites, and treat them as well if infected. Pets should not be allowed into the garden, especially if they are outdoor pets. Same goes for you... change your clothes and shoes before working on you garden, and never use the same tools as you use for your outdoor veggies or houseplants.
Be particularly careful about changing your clothes/shoes if you've been walking in the woods, have been to a nursery or a garden store/ hydro store. You don't want to bring someone else's problem home on your clothes and introduce it to you garden!

an ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure! and speaking of a POUND or two of cure, nice garden digs!

 

[yerboyblue]

and on that note;
probly most important are the preventative measures:
https://www.icmag.com/modules/Tutorials/PlantTrouble/1552.htm

an ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure! and speaking of a POUND or two of cure, nice garden digs!
View Image

I quite literally do not have pets for the sole reason that they would bring anything into my house. If I did, I would probably name it spider mite, SM for short. Same goes for house plants. I don't even walk through the part of the garden center at home depot that has plants, and walk around plants in parking lots, you know the kind they have next to parking spots and stuff. I'll take the long way, thank you.

Don't forget, treat all clones from anyone else like they are the plague. Nuke them before they enter your room, roots and foliage. I took cuts from my friends room, so I could avoid getting root aphids, again. Even washed the cuts when I got home with cold water to knock off any potential mold, spider mites. Thought I was good, annnnnnd now I have broad mites. With friends like that, who needs enemies?

 

[greenspace]

Wow, what a thread. Read the whole thing since I started a thread below the stickies almost a week ago and was directed here. I have been growing for myself for 10 years, learned everything I know from reading Overgrow.com back from '99-'05 or whenever they were shutdown. I have had lots of pests through the years but I have never dealt with anything like this.

The rapidity of the damage was shocking. I was laid up with the flu and it must have hit in earnest then because about 4 days later when I started looking in rooms that I hadn't in a week there was a stark, awful difference. The tops on 3/4 were yellow and stunted with distorted leaves. The room that was close to harvest (2-3 weeks) wasn't really hit at all? Didn't understand that but at least I will have something to hold me over if I have to start over.

I was advised by fellow posters where to look for my problem but I don't have a scope or good vision so my chances of spotting BMs would be minimal. In the beginning, before I read this thread, I was convinced that I would deal with them like spider mites, spray miticides and call it a day. But after reading I realize that I am probably never going to completely rid myself of this scourge so I decided to start out with a gentler approach, one that I could use in veg and flower.

I see a lot of people pushing the pesticide route but if you are just going to have to constantly retreat what is the use? Why spend all that money to just manage the problem and cause god-knows what kind of damage to yourself and the environment.

When I google broad mites many of the botanical sites recommend using insecticidal soaps on them, which I just happened to have sitting around, the Bayer safer brand. So on Sunday 10/13 I hit everything and I completely soaked em. tops and bottoms of leaves. I hit them again yesterday and I plan on nailing them every 2-3 days for the first 2-3 weeks, unless I see signs of stress on the plants.

Just 3 days into this and I am already seeing big improvement in the veg room. The stuff that was hit hard have started sending out leaves again where everything had shut down. The hardest hit in flower aren't showing much improvement yet and I understand they may 'dud' out. The ones that weren't hit that hard are bouncing back as well so I guess I don't need a scope to confirm that I had some sort of infestation.

I had a couple of questions for anyone with experience with the insecticidal soaps. I have read they break down after 7 days, I assume then that I can spray on plants up to a week or more away from harvest? Soaps do not kill the eggs, correct? That is why I am choosing to spray so frequently early in the battle, to stem the infestation.

In addition to being safer to spray compared to the stuff like Forbid this is only $12 for a bottle of concentrate, don't have the size here in front of me but it will make many, many gallons.

 

[yerboyblue]

Keep spraying them with the soap. Stay on top of them. A few times won't be enough. As far as the pesticide route goes, a lot of people have had success with it. If you stay on top of them and do multiple, frequent applications with a rotation of pesticides, there should be no reason why you can't get rid of them. I believe people that have been reinfected have them coming in from an untreated area or from outside, hence continuing with pesticides.

 

[knubs]

does anyone know of a source that lists plants that can be affected by broad mites? i live in the desert and the only plant in my yard is a young cottonwood tree. if it can be infected i will cut it down and replant some new ones next year. it is too fuzy to scope out though so i dont know if it has them...

 

[yerboyblue]

You might have to piece that info together, but pesticides that are meant for broad mites have labels that show common affected commercial crops in pretty good detail. Most common are citrus trees. Good luck, let us know if you find anything.