Confusion of Solvents used for RSO??? New patient information..

[justpassnthru]

this question is for those that KNOW(chemists or informed) and can inform us;
those that are unwittingly a patient consumer !
those seeking information


Please do not take affront to this, as I've experienced so much difference in rso from people that actual take what they make, also.

The past 1.5 years I've 'tried' rso from just about every solvent; Iso, vodka, everclear and nahptha; here in California. Not insisting on PROOF of what was used.

Considering every one of those solvents are unavailable in the suggested strengths in California...It concerns me greatly. Wtf was used to make the rso's I ingested, REALLY! I did have some side-effects of rso improperly made(which was ultimately lab tested and not pure), or others with too much plant material in it.

With a little searching at the hardware stores, pharmacies and liquor stores..it was very eye opening.

I had headaches, indigestion and who knows what else with the rso, with the exception of one. That one was made with naptha and I suspect it was more strain related to being the "best." or it was the naptha...who knows. That caretaker now use's vodka due to naptha no longer being available in CA.

After looking in pharmacies (asking), hardware/paint and liqour stores, etc. I discovered Naptha is NOT available in California and was replaced with an "unknown" solvent that is called: Industrial Maintanence Coating and Thinner: No chemical name on the can. Nor is 190 proof alcohol or 99% ISO available.

Then there is a V, M & P naHptha. Which does not sound like naptha...as Rick Simpson video? Plus, what is V, M & P?

I CAN VISUALIZE SOMEONE SEEING THAT AND GETTING IT!


It worries me, are people using that stuff instead of what is recommended and is that why so many are wondering IF the rso is making them sick? I think SO! More out of stupidity and carelessness...Lord Forbid; profit!

After a little discovery, I WOULD NEVER TAKE AN RSO MADE FROM A SOURCE THAT COULDN'T PROVE TO ME, WHICH
SOLVENT WAS USED. jst mho.

I didn't know better until 4 weeks ago.

Asking ...Curious, IS anyone else concerned of poisoned RSO? I believe it is a reality we all need to start being more aware of. As the solvents are altered or unavailable, some money mongers might resort to anything!

I must admit, I have new symptoms and my doctor isn't going to be looking for solvent poisoning. If you are a caregiver...don't get upset, this question is for those that are careless, not the informed!

If that is what is allowed in California State, which other states have similar availability of the WRONG solvents? As a beginner with rso we tend to take what we can get and not even question that, until we do more research. It wasn't until I decided to make my own I discovered this.

In case you are wondering, I used Grain Alcohol--everclear/ rum 151, which was OTC here and will 'order' something better, on line, in the future, thanks to a kind informative member here!

It is doubtful anyone using the wrong stuff will post, but I sure hope you are aware, patients are becoming better educated and should demand PROOF of what is used for the rso you get from others.


I am not trying to use the word poison for the fright factor;
It is a reality we ALL need to 'Think' about, so it doesn't reach the 5 O'clock News and HELP KEEP OUR MEDICINE SAFE.

jpt

 

[EsterEssence]

You can get everclear 190 in az. Any thing you use as a solvent leaves a footprint, water washed or vac purged there is still some in there.

 

[green_thumb...]

What the fuck is rso? Anything thats a solvant has an oil content and as most know oil does not evaporate and can most often only be removed with a solvant (makes no sence).

I believe grain alcohol is the best bet as its not oil contammed and will evaporate with little to no residue due to its low water content.

My bro brews his own shine so I use that when I can.

 

[dddaver]

I'm just a consumer type and not sure if this is even relevant. But just FYI, according to wiki Naphtha is carcinogenic. Is that even a health concern using that in making RSO with it?

 

[justpassnthru]

I used grain alcohol and am glad to read it is available in AZ!!:yay:

As a consumer and first time Rick Simpson Oil maker--the choices of solvents ultimately became Grain Alcohol.

Having used oils from different sources, I have a serious concern a person that is less interested in health and more in fun and money, might use ANY SOLVENT. The labels at HD are confusing. I simply asked, many would not OR worse yet be told this 'replaced' it. Some would probably blindly use that new stuff with no chemical name on it or V,M & P Nahptha.


I felt so much difference in each oil I used for my disease -making my own was the only solution. Arizona looks good. Nevada would be more fun?

This stuff I made with Grain Alcohol and Jack Herer; first dreams I've had in 2 years and slept for 8 hours solid.

Another concern is: If using certain solvents, would that seem to CURE or stop ones cancer and THEN AT SOME POINT, MAKE IT WORSE Cause cancer? With an already compromised immune system?

all for the input and those of you that started reading 'labels' on the substitute you used for solvent. jpt

 

[EsterEssence]

In Az at bevmo is the best deal, they are only in the big cities. You should still water wash the oil. Once the alc is nearly gone, you can tell by the temp as well as the size of the bubbles, pour in enough distilled water to cover the oil a couple inches and boil it for a few minutes. Take the cooking pan and place it on a bag of ice it will cool. as it cools the oil will collect into a lump, pour off the water, the cook off the rest of the water, again you can tell when the water is gone by the temp and bubbles. It might be available in NV as well, it will cost you more there, gambling losses...

 

[justpassnthru]

In Az at bevmo is the best deal, they are only in the big cities. You should still water wash the oil. Once the alc is nearly gone, you can tell by the temp as well as the size of the bubbles, pour in enough distilled water to cover the oil a couple inches and boil it for a few minutes. Take the cooking pan and place it on a bag of ice it will cool. as it cools the oil will collect into a lump, pour off the water, the cook off the rest of the water, again you can tell when the water is gone by the temp and bubbles. It might be available in NV as well, it will cost you more there, gambling losses...

THANK YOU!! I'll Google the closest one. Doubt they'll give me the "deal of the day" for bulk, like I can get locally for the 151.

I did use some water near the end of the boil off in the rice cooker..figured it wouldn't hurt, even if not needed. Thank you, I'll try that method as well.

I took a very large sized dose of my oil last night...had my first dreams in 21 mos. an slept quite well! Dreamt I could hear my neighbors phone conversations thru my phone's speaker! LOL and a few others! :yay:

Phoenix is about 6 hours--looking like I might learn e-buying yet (thank you "m" for the links)! probably not a good idea to ask someone to send me some! jpt

 

[The Green Horne]

From what I understand, any ill effects from the Naptha are taken care of by the medicinal properties of the oil when ingested. Also if you think about all the dangerous side effects regular pharma meds have, the naptha issue is not as bad. That being said, I'm sure there are many instances where the oil does more damage than good like when they don't properly burn off all of the extraction fluid or maybe burn the oil towards the end and destroy medicinal values.
My biggest dilemma is whether or not to freeze the starting product and everclear first or to place the starting product in the oven before hand to decarboxylate it. Is that even necessary if the herb is not fresh picked? I understand that decarbing increases the thc value. Is it the chlorophyl content that makes people sick? Is that the real reason for freezing - so as to get less plant product in end result. I am making this oil for someone who has been on Gleevac (chemo drug) for over a decade. The chemo isn't working like it used to and the kidneys are being compromised. I would do just as Rick Simpson says because his method seems to be the most impactful, even if there is a tiny trace amount of naptha. I know there are a lot of opinions on this and I am trying to make the best possible oil I can. So much to learn.

 

[maryjaneismyfre]

I think solvent residues are an important issue. We should be making medicine, not poison. I'm hesitant (Won't use for extraction but might for polishing) to use naptha in oil for internal ingestion. Even when I do use 'naptha' for polishing, I'm really talking about distilled hexane. I never used to be concerned but early have realized that my first naptha extracts used to contain a paraffin wax residue that would be shit to smoke. I switched to denatured ethanol to make the RSO for patients (preferably denatured with something that has a lower boiling point and is not too toxic, if you can get 191 everclear great!) but had a really sensitive patient's mouth break out in a reaction after what I thought was a properly purged oil (ethanol reaction?!) that never happened again with more care in purge. I don't use hexane for polishing anymore either but just use distilled water in a bowl and have found if I just repeat the process till the water is clear when washing and after boiling (maybe five times) and then do a final thin film evaporation in a big pyrex dish over 12 to 24 hours on a warm glass food warmer, there is no residues worth noting or for me to taste on tongue. My glassware has seen better days, my sep. funnels haha a collection has broken to none so a large stainless dog water bowl it is. It works well though.

The water polish goes like this..

Extract and then reduce all your ethanol on double boil outside. reduce till only a really small amount and add more fresh dry as possible ethanol to reduce water content after till maybe 500ml total. Freeze for 24-48hours and filter out the fats and gunk that crash out with double coffee filter. Use freezer temp ethanol to rinse your filters. Reduce further on double bl and once the oil is reduced to maybe double the final volume, put some distilled water on the boil. Add water bit by bit to increase the volume significantly. The ethanol boils off furiously when you do this as the water is hotter than its boiling point.
Use a large stainless steel bowl if you can (Record the tare weight) and a round pot to double boil, floating the bowl in the pots water. This makes it easy to spin the bowl and create thin spinning films like a poormans rotovap to effectively boil off solvents . The water grabs a bit of oil in the ethanol azetrope but no worries for now. You can use a fan blowing lightly at an angle to spin the bowl for you, just take care that it does not cool the double boil too much. Works like a charm.

As the mixture boils off add more hot water slowly, until most of the ethanol is boiled off and chlorophyll residues are dissolved etc..There should be an excess of water now in the bowl with oil on top, spin the bowl to allow the water underneath to quickly steam off. Do this until the furious boil of the ethanol is over and there is just azetrope left and it just steams off at the double boil temp. Now take the bowl out and allow to cool in some cool water or outside in the cold. Then when at room temp in a few minutes (the steel bowl is an effective radiator) put the bowl in the freezer for half an hour.

Take out later before the water has frozen but after the oil has gone very viscous. Pour off water into another steel pot quickly and rinse with cold distilled water as many times as you can before the oil warms up and it becomes a mission to pour the water off. Each time pour the water off into the same pot which later you can use to recover the oil residues in the other crap that in in here. Put back on double boil with fresh distilled water and repeat. Let the water grab solvent residues and also boil them out of the oil.

Repeat this water process three times to five depending of residues and chlorophyll residues but afterwards your last run water will boil clear and pour off clear, the oil will be clean as clean. Double boil off last drops that didn't pour off and let bottom pot simmer to dry oil for an hour, spinning the bowl as often as you can. Once done, weigh steel bowl to get amount of oil (You know how much the bowl weighs empty). Then transfer this oil however you can to pyrex and put with the bowl on a heating pad or the likes and let sit for 12 to 24 hours. I like overnight and then next day.

Once done, weigh out equal amount of coconut oil and transfer to pyrex. Let melt and stir the two oils together completely. It should be easy now to work and transfer the oil. Pour this back into the bowl in the boiler and scrape/pour out last with an artists oil paint 'palette knife' you can get a hundred designs of at an art store. Once back in the bowl, mix the bit you left back into the new oil completely and then just use a 20ml syringe or something similar to draw out and measure the runny mixed oil easily when warm. Just draw out and decant for various patients until the bowl is empty.
Afterwards the pot with water and azetrope can be reduced until there is little water left which can be poured off and discarded. The oil inside the pot must be rinsed with fresh water a few times then made warm to dry. Pour in a bit of ethanol to grab oils. Rinse 2 or 3 times with ethanol to get everything and pour into bowl. Use ethanol to grab all oil on sides of bowl and reduce..Clean with water once and add more coconut and have some more oil for your skin or whatever..

This method is for ingestion or topical oil not smoking oil as terpenes are long gone, it comes out an absolute.

There ya'll go. A way to extract and polish to an absolute with no petro-chem solvent nor separatory funnel needed. And it works on green long or tertiary soaks too.