That thread was the same as this one. Guy asks a question, gets plenty of answers, just not the ones he wants to hear. In turn, guy gets pissed off and completely ignores the one common tune that everyone else is singing.
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whats a good flower hardener??
- Thread starter baddagger
- Start date
That thread was the same as this one. Guy asks a question, gets plenty of answers, just not the ones he wants to hear. In turn, guy gets pissed off and completely ignores the one common tune that everyone else is singing.
cooler conditions will help but its strain dependent , you never you to get a rock hard nugged haze for thai were as og's its all you get no matter what the condtions are, little hard rocks 
Safer alternative to bushmaster/Paclobutrazol is Chlormequat Chloride.
http://mbferts.com/Stretch-Stopper-Safer-Bushmaster-PGR-Alternative-131.htm
Cycocel 77A contains Chlormequat 77g/L present as Chlormequat Chloride
Used on grapes
It will normally retard growth for 1-3 weeks
I use BAP
There are many threads on BAP here.
To all
DO YOUR HOMEWORK WHEN USING ANY NEW PRODUCT
http://mbferts.com/Stretch-Stopper-Safer-Bushmaster-PGR-Alternative-131.htm
Cycocel 77A contains Chlormequat 77g/L present as Chlormequat Chloride
Used on grapes
It will normally retard growth for 1-3 weeks
I use BAP
There are many threads on BAP here.
To all
DO YOUR HOMEWORK WHEN USING ANY NEW PRODUCT
The hysteria online concerning PGR's generally - and paclobutrazol specifically - is mostly a gross exaggeration of the science by people who have distorted the concerns out of all proportion. It's a case of internet "piling on". Throw in some organic growers and some holier-than-thou statements, and the thing is entirely out of hand now.
The toxicity levels for this compound when fed to rats was at more than FIVE TIMES the rat's own body weight. At the concentrations it is used in hydroponics, it's impact is negligible. If you are going to quote scientific studies -- at least take the time time to read them and the MSDs sheets for this compound.
And no, paclobutrazol is not something you are going to ordinarily inhale, either. It burns. If you vape, assuming any of it was left in the buds, it vaporizes at 180 degrees below where THC does, so it's trivial to quickly purge off if you think it is something to be concerned about.
It's not a health food supplement, but used sparingly it works and should not prove a problem in your weed. That does NOT mean you should not read up on it and know what you are doing.
A little less near religious hysteria about paclobutrazol would be in order.
If you have smoked commercial weed in the past 20 years, the odds are overwhelmingly high that you have already smoked weed containing paclobutrazol. The sun still rises; your liver still works.
Chillax.
The toxicity levels for this compound when fed to rats was at more than FIVE TIMES the rat's own body weight. At the concentrations it is used in hydroponics, it's impact is negligible. If you are going to quote scientific studies -- at least take the time time to read them and the MSDs sheets for this compound.
And no, paclobutrazol is not something you are going to ordinarily inhale, either. It burns. If you vape, assuming any of it was left in the buds, it vaporizes at 180 degrees below where THC does, so it's trivial to quickly purge off if you think it is something to be concerned about.
It's not a health food supplement, but used sparingly it works and should not prove a problem in your weed. That does NOT mean you should not read up on it and know what you are doing.
A little less near religious hysteria about paclobutrazol would be in order.
If you have smoked commercial weed in the past 20 years, the odds are overwhelmingly high that you have already smoked weed containing paclobutrazol. The sun still rises; your liver still works.
Chillax.
So am I to understand that whatever product you are referring to (possibly different chemicals with the same effect even) basically just slows down growth for 2-3 weeks? What are the practical benefits of that? I saw someone mention a product 'bushmaster' which makes me guess it makes plants more 'bushy'. I also saw people mentioned the temp difference method for lights on/off, which if memory serves is a way to decrease the distance between nodes. Sorry if this is a nub question but I've never heard of such a product, not that I know everything about nutes, I'm just curious.
Lots of light, cool temps, good airflow. Indica dominant/hybrid genetics will help as well.
The negatives of those commercial chemical products far outweighs any potential gain imho, but to each his own.
The negatives of those commercial chemical products far outweighs any potential gain imho, but to each his own.
well if your flowers aren't dense enough and you won't address it genetically you can address it with light density and/or by manipulating photo period. take an hour off of your flowering cycle last couple to few weeks of flower
take it off the bottom not the top
my flowers are always denser in 11/13 than 12/12 and tbh in most instances i prefer 11/13
take it off the bottom not the top
my flowers are always denser in 11/13 than 12/12 and tbh in most instances i prefer 11/13
What do you mean take it off the bottom?? Do you run 11/13 right when you initiate flower? Last round I went from 12/12 to 11/13 at around week 7 of flower. Wondering if I should switch earlier??? Thanks
Thanks!!
Last edited:
What do u consider "cooler" temps?? All my research points towards increasing temps when using co2 so the stomata's open up more and take in more co2. My grow store guy swears anything over 78 degrees in flower with co2 will produce light airy buds. So which is true??
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I have been running a canopy temp of 85 in veg, 82 in flower and I'm a few days into week 5 and just lowered temps to 80. This is a 9 week strain. Rockstar Kush. Last round which was my first run with this strain as well as my first time doing coco with drippers and my second grow ever
I managed almost 2.25 per 1000w Gavita. I'd like to get that number to 2.75-3 per.
MrDanky
Member
ive found that the densest bud ive ever laid my lunngs on has been outdoor commercial dank from cali...... and that is because of the genetics the farmers use along with the intense sunlight.....
emulate that and you have your answer......
rock hard buds arent always the greatest FYI....
ive smoked plenty of airy bud that has put hard buds to shame....
GENETICS, LIGHT INTENSITY, AND PROPER NUTRIENTS = THERES YOUR ANSWER boob... or i mean noob
emulate that and you have your answer......
rock hard buds arent always the greatest FYI....
ive smoked plenty of airy bud that has put hard buds to shame....
GENETICS, LIGHT INTENSITY, AND PROPER NUTRIENTS = THERES YOUR ANSWER boob... or i mean noob
Cooler temps are relative to the strains genetics. For a mexican haze/thai bred sativa high 70's/low 80's would be cooler. For a nice pakistani Indica like some Purple Urkle, low-mid 70's would be cooler temps. Subtract 8-10 degrees off those numbers for nighttime temps obviously.
Cannabis likes to be warm, but not scorching hot. Therefore if it's regularly at too high of a temperature, it will change it's growth pattern to encourage airflow and lower temps. Growing the same strain side by side, one at 75f and the other at 85f, you will see a lot more light getting through the buds of the hotter plant and this is part of it's evolutionary strategy. Higher temps equate to higher humidity which tells the plant to employ a growth pattern that will combat mold and budrot.
If the plant is slightly cool with fairly low humidity, it will attempt to counter these environmental factors by growing dense buds that trap light, heat and don't cool down nearly as fast as airy buds. Rock hard, dense buds are an excellent evolutionary counter to the extremely cold, dry nights you find in parts of the world where Indica is native. The fluffy, airy buds of Sativa plants are similarly a great counter to the sweltering temps and ridiculous humidity you find in equatorial regions. It is possible to get sativa bud harder/denser than you would normally see it on average, but you're already starting at a huge evolutionary disadvantage compared to the perfectly selected genetics of Indica.
Why did everyone immediately go to pgr discussion? He asked about hardeners. There are many that are pgr free. Moab, kool bloom and what about top shooter from house and garden? Are those not hardeners? I use moab and its a great product for the price.
Dude...genetics and environment are everything. As long as your giving them the proper nutrients throughout the different stages and your environment is tight....all that's left is genetics...genetics.
Budsworth
Member
Kool bloom leaves your buds tasting like crushed up tylenol. Haven't tried Moab...but I've got a box full of sample bags.
I like a combo of bloombastic and bud candy. I've always gotten good bag appeal on my bud. And they've always been dense. But those two combined took my product to a knew level.
I've gone on a mission for great taste the last couple of years. The goal was great taste without a loss of yield. Bloom boosters (potassium phosphate) in general is a negative effect on your flavor (cal/mag is notorious offender as well...I cut it out several weeks before harvest).
I just found that the Bloombastic and Bud Candy combo gave me ridiculously dense buds, great size, and it didnt negatively affect my flavor.
Obviously a good dry, sweat and cure go a long way to having great flavor as well.
K
K.O.Genetics
genetics.. is right.. ive seen some crazy shit.. we did a test grow 6 months ago with CFLS because a dude we know grew some shitty bud with cfls.. and i wanted to prove it was his genetics.. and not the lights.. that u can grow great buds with cfls.. just need right genetics. we tossed this crazy kush we got a while ago that does great in low light.. and did a SOG with 400w of cfls.. 40 plants. and we got 290 grams..proly could of done better but we werent paying as much attention to that room as i should of.. i just wanted to prove a point..
but ive seen some strains that fuckin will not bud right unless in direct sun all day.. or under 1000w hps directly under the light. but others that do well in the shade.. we are working on low light strains.. so that they do amazing EVERYWERE in the room.. so u can pack rooms tight and still get great yields of dense great buds.. but its been a challenge
but ive seen some strains that fuckin will not bud right unless in direct sun all day.. or under 1000w hps directly under the light. but others that do well in the shade.. we are working on low light strains.. so that they do amazing EVERYWERE in the room.. so u can pack rooms tight and still get great yields of dense great buds.. but its been a challenge
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