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a little in desperate in wax land....

furrywall11

Member
at this point I don't even care if I get wax OR shatter. Either one. I'm just trying to get something stable and clean (butane free).

I've watched all the videos and read so much my eyes hurt. Everyone sez something different...... I could really use some pointers here... I'm more of a hands on kind of guy so once I achieve some small success I'll be able to work it from there...

Also, I think the problem I'm having is that some material easily turns into wax or shatter. I don't think that's the case with mine - so I'm asking, What would you do if you were working with this goop/hard stuff at this stage?


Here's my setup -- two 3 gallon chambers on a hotplate tied together with a triple barb and a 3cfm single stage pump. I can get both chambers up to 27HG and my elevation is 1700.

IMG_1974.jpg


This is my problem patty (also my first I've ever created) right here. Starting material; 3lbs of good Blue Dream sugar trim with small crystally nuggets. I vac'd and purged for 30 hours 27hg at between 120 and 130. Right now it's to the point where if I touch it at room temperature it won't come off on my finger.... it's actually hard to the touch....but....she still bubbles a little when I put her on the plate at 130....so....WTF? And she's not snappy, like pull and snap, or breaky like shatter... she's just hard and pliable. What is this? What should I do?
IMG_1975.jpg


This is 233gms of Green Crack goop. Starting material; 3.9lbs of really nice trim and nuggets. If this was in your pyrex, what would you do with it?
IMG_1976.jpg

Sorry for the desperate tone.. I'm exhausted from running around and desirous of a good result. Thank for reading, and thanks for any advice you can send my way
 

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Looks like you need a bigger vessel spread it out more get it thinner. You ran a shit ton. Green crack looks okay but i would still get it thinner and purge more. Your initial purge on the blue dream looks like it needed to go more?
 
I looked again at pics. I think it might be your heat source? Sometimes those hotplats heat up real hot then sit then get pretty cool then blast back up, thats not a stable way to maintain temp imo. I dunno... just some suggestions for you.
 

furrywall11

Member
thanks for checkin in... the green crack hasn't been purged at all yet. just poured it out of the extractor and let it sit on some paper at room temp for 24 hours..

with the blue dream (1st patty pic) it bubbles a _little_ at 130 degrees.... this means isn't not done purging right? it should stop bubbling completely. what blows me mind is that it's been purging for 30 hours!! but it still bubbles, so it needs more purging, right? from what i understand it's purge until it's unresponsive at 130 degrees ----> you've got shatter ---> increase heat slightly and purge for another 10 hours (give your take 5 hours) and you _should_ get wax...... i've vac'd under heat for 30 hours, there's no way it should still be bubbling, right?

you're right about those kmart heating plates -- i think they have a heat function that turns on every 5-10 minutes.. so, if you turn the dial it'll go to 140, then over 5 minutes down to 110, then in 5 minutes back to 140-150, then back down, on n on
 

furrywall11

Member
there's this guy on youtube (look up knotty bho) that uses that brand though... and he is _very_ successful with it... so, i dunno
 

furrywall11

Member
i guess I should clarify this is my understanding; pour out extract goop into pyrex container and place on heating plate at 130 --- let it sit for 45 minutes or whatever until it's thick and only slightly bubbles ---- > put extract into vac chamber, pull 27-29, heat to 130, alternate vac and purge until it's unresponsive, should take approx 4 hours ---> it should be shatter at this point ---> leave it in the vac chamber at 130 under 27-29hg without purging the chamber for 5-10 additional hours ---> you should have wax at this point ................. what am i missing...


idk what to do about the heating plate... that's supposedly the best one you can get without ordering a digital laboratory heating plate over the internet or getting a vacuum oven
 

furrywall11

Member
i'd also like to add that the blue dream run was filled with huge of amounts of buds but, it was from last years outdoor....
 
I dunno man all i do is blast into a pyrex dish then immediately while butane is still liquid put it on double boiler (pan with hot water on hot plate) the butane goes bye bye

I take it inside let purge on stove direct(med temp) once it starts turning darker or lots little bubbles are forming I take it off and scrape it up and then low heat vac purge over-night...
 

hammalamma

Member
Veteran
Too much heat. Bring your initial purge temps down to 100f[probably not gonna happen with a hot plate], and vac at 115 to 117F at 29.5hg.
Keep everything cold while extracting should help get some lighter colors and better consistency.
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i guess I should clarify this is my understanding; pour out extract goop into pyrex container and place on heating plate at 130 --- let it sit for 45 minutes or whatever until it's thick and only slightly bubbles ---- > put extract into vac chamber, pull 27-29, heat to 130, alternate vac and purge until it's unresponsive, should take approx 4 hours ---> it should be shatter at this point ---> leave it in the vac chamber at 130 under 27-29hg without purging the chamber for 5-10 additional hours ---> you should have wax at this point ................. what am i missing...


idk what to do about the heating plate... that's supposedly the best one you can get without ordering a digital laboratory heating plate over the internet or getting a vacuum oven

I have a Corning lab hot plate with a 10" x 10" ceramic top, sucks, I've ended up putting it to use for making clarified butter (ghee) and decarbing oil. The temperature across the surface isn't even, and the ceramic top has huge hysteresis problems.

The outside bottom of my stock pot is slightly concave, place a straight edge across yours and check.

Heat can be transfered by conduction, radiation, or convection, with direct conduction having the most desirable qualities imo. Vacuum ovens use radiant heat from the walls which have been heated by small powerful strip heaters.

My solution,

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5915060&postcount=4

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5935324&postcount=152

That's finesse... (you couldn't give me a vacuum oven, wouldn't even want the hassle of unloading it at ebay... seriously!)
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
How to test and recalibrate dial vacuum gauges,
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5869373&postcount=76

I have a Yellow Jacket 69075 electronic vacuum pressure meter I double check with, highly recommended.

You can pull 'a full vacuum' at elevations above sea level, but your dial gauge's maximum reading will be off by about one inch of mercury for every thousand feet of elevation. Without a micron meter it's nearly impossible determine the degree of 'full vacuum' you are achieving when continuing to run the pump past the point when the dial gauge's needle ceases to show downward progression.
 

furrywall11

Member
<Ian Mckellan voice> Well done, SkyhighLer, using those Omega pumps and the Dorkfood thermostat is really quite ingenious</Ian Mckellan voice> Thanks, bro! I'm going to check those out... the Hotplate jumps around a lot and it's hard to get a steady temp.

So, with my problem patty, I noticed that it wasn't bubbling at temps < 105 so I took it out, put it in the freezer, pulled it out, and now it's what one might consider "amber glass". It's not sticky at room temperature and it breaks. I'm going to cautiously call that a success.

IMG_1979.jpg







Thanks for your help, everyone... :)

Now on to the GC..
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Congratulations, looks decent, but I'd be worried with all the screwing around that it's not stable (will go to wax.) Sorry bro, just being honest. Might be wise to keep some set aside as a test. I checked all of my extractions for months before declaring them stable. I use a standard formula, 115F down to -29.5" Hg for about an hour, raising and lowering the vacuum several times to get an idea of the viscosity. With cheap nuggs from a local SoCal MMJ collective I get amber sap, with higher grade ($200/oz on up) I get clearer, harder shatter. Right now I'm dabbing some Hawaiian OG sap I extracted six months ago, dreamy... peace

Oh, and if you think I'm stuck up, lol, Omega (where I got the bitchin' round mat) insists you order, and wait four to five weeks. "Availability = 5 Weeks" seldom changes on their site, they admitted it to me...
 

furrywall11

Member
I've been getting some interesting things out of my vac oven these last couple days..



This is done at very low temps.. it's totally stable and reasonably attractive. Smells great...smokes...woah. I would call it a waxy shatter. :D
photo11.jpg


Low temps.. fiddling with vac levels. Totally stable fluffy golden honeycomb? :)
photo12.jpg
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
at this point I don't even care if I get wax OR shatter. Either one. I'm just trying to get something stable and clean (butane free).

I've watched all the videos and read so much my eyes hurt. Everyone sez something different...... I could really use some pointers here... I'm more of a hands on kind of guy so once I achieve some small success I'll be able to work it from there...

Also, I think the problem I'm having is that some material easily turns into wax or shatter. I don't think that's the case with mine - so I'm asking, What would you do if you were working with this goop/hard stuff at this stage?


Here's my setup -- two 3 gallon chambers on a hotplate tied together with a triple barb and a 3cfm single stage pump. I can get both chambers up to 27HG and my elevation is 1700.

View attachment 235041


This is my problem patty (also my first I've ever created) right here. Starting material; 3lbs of good Blue Dream sugar trim with small crystally nuggets. I vac'd and purged for 30 hours 27hg at between 120 and 130. Right now it's to the point where if I touch it at room temperature it won't come off on my finger.... it's actually hard to the touch....but....she still bubbles a little when I put her on the plate at 130....so....WTF? And she's not snappy, like pull and snap, or breaky like shatter... she's just hard and pliable. What is this? What should I do?
View attachment 235042


This is 233gms of Green Crack goop. Starting material; 3.9lbs of really nice trim and nuggets. If this was in your pyrex, what would you do with it?
View attachment 235043

Sorry for the desperate tone.. I'm exhausted from running around and desirous of a good result. Thank for reading, and thanks for any advice you can send my way

I would personally thin out the puddle, and drop the temperature to 115F for shatter. We didn't have much luck with that griddle, even using a trivet under the chamber to help cool it down.

You might consider setting your chamber in a shallow pan of water or sand on the griddle, to try and tame it down, or switch to heating pads, which is what we ended up doing.

Oil will still bubble from decarboxylation even after the solvent is gone. The decarb produces small fizzy bubbles and the solvent various sized larger ones.
 

Hash Man

Member
I've been getting some interesting things out of my vac oven these last couple days..



This is done at very low temps.. it's totally stable and reasonably attractive. Smells great...smokes...woah. I would call it a waxy shatter. :D
View attachment 244028


Low temps.. fiddling with vac levels. Totally stable fluffy golden honeycomb? :)
View attachment 244029

Thats nice comb. All my stuff comes out like the first pic. The second pic looks really good though. What temps n hg were u pulling?
 

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