Broad Mites?
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OrganicO You have been busted for the hideous cyber crime of "CUTTING & PASTING". You must now take your foot out of your mouth and apologize to me, the cut & paste king.
LOL! Your posts are littered with cut & paste links.
I tossed all my stuff that was flowering. I used Avid and Forbid. I did one spray of Forbid. Then a whole course of Avid. Then I took new cuts and cleaned them with insecticidal soap and rinsed. Rooted them. When they were rooted I threw out all my original plants. Vegged the rooted clones for 8 weeks while spraying with sm90.
When they were 8 weeks old I trimmed them all down to 2-3 small leaves and I retreated with Forbid and Avid. Then I put them outside in the ground for the summer. I took new cuts of everything at the end of July when it was 95-98 degrees and super humid, cleaned them as before, rooted them and they are mite free.
They rooted super fast and are growing like crazy and I think I am mite free. I also had the luxury of selling the house where I had broad mites and am in a different house.
I still worry they will come back and haunt me again. But I know what to look for now.
Get MO there is only one thing in ogbiowar that hurts bees. Just don't use it outside especially as just a preventive treatment.
Some old dude
Member
You people are insane
You people are insane
Some people here are just fork, knife, and spoon ,short of a full set.Gone down the road loony. If you want to promote toxins and carcinogens over A very safe effective natural product that in no way harms anyone or the environment you have that rite. But this is the limit I'll sound off whenever I see this kind of parallel universe reasoning if OGB is bro-science I'm proud to use that term actully "Hippy bro-science" cause we are environmentalists too. I will not stand by while some people promote these toxins over a proven safe and non poisonous option. You people want to feel better about poisoning yourselves and others go rite ahead some of us will not stand by and watch in silence. I'm acrtually kinna glad as I have made the "safe Organic" notes and stickers for my jars. Explaining to people exactly what they are getting when they use some of your medicine. You can shape a road apple into a rose paint it red and put some perfume on it but friends it's still just a "Road apple "and your not fooling anyone here.And I refuse to get in a Pissing contest with people who think Avid and Forbid and worse are in any way an acceptable option compared to OGB, so your spitting in the wind here. It's enough to know I've had my say and this will be seen.And some people here knowing I have been in the grow bus for 35 years. All the best people,
You people are insane
Some people here are just fork, knife, and spoon ,short of a full set.Gone down the road loony. If you want to promote toxins and carcinogens over A very safe effective natural product that in no way harms anyone or the environment you have that rite. But this is the limit I'll sound off whenever I see this kind of parallel universe reasoning if OGB is bro-science I'm proud to use that term actully "Hippy bro-science" cause we are environmentalists too. I will not stand by while some people promote these toxins over a proven safe and non poisonous option. You people want to feel better about poisoning yourselves and others go rite ahead some of us will not stand by and watch in silence. I'm acrtually kinna glad as I have made the "safe Organic" notes and stickers for my jars. Explaining to people exactly what they are getting when they use some of your medicine. You can shape a road apple into a rose paint it red and put some perfume on it but friends it's still just a "Road apple "and your not fooling anyone here.And I refuse to get in a Pissing contest with people who think Avid and Forbid and worse are in any way an acceptable option compared to OGB, so your spitting in the wind here. It's enough to know I've had my say and this will be seen.And some people here knowing I have been in the grow bus for 35 years. All the best people,
tbh im no hippy but I completely disagree with spraying insecticides outdoors. if your gonna grow outdoors you really take the risks of pests, I don't think its right to put those chemicals directly into the environment.
in a sealed room its not ideal either but I think its much more responsible.
Some Old Dude you are way off base. You are not supposed to use things like ogbiowar all the time as a preventative measure OUTDOORS. You are misusing it if you do that. It is a species that you introduce that IS NOT SUPPOSE TO BE THERE. Like Asian Carp in Ohio rivers. Like pythons in the Everglades. You don't even know what the outcome could be because it is just being done now. You could be releasing the first starling. It goes against the known science and biology not to introduce foreign species.
I on the other hand killed my mites with chemicals in a controlled indoor room. I threw out my flowering plants. Nobody smoked any chemicals. Then I took clones from chemically treated plants and then grew them outside ORGANICALLY in the ground and then took more cuts that I rooted to grow inside. These cuts were never treated with chemicals. They are twice removed clones from treated plants. There is no chemicals left in them. If you understand about half-life of chemicals you know they are long gone. To argue against that would be against accepted science. Avid and Forbid are not radioactive. Their half-lives are measured in weeks and months not years and decades and certainly not forever.
I am done treating and you will be preventative treating forever the way you ogbiowar guys talk. I like my buds natural. You like your buds with fungus and bacteria colonies on it. I know they don't hurt you but they are still there. You can call your buds Activia buds. Sounds yummy.
I on the other hand killed my mites with chemicals in a controlled indoor room. I threw out my flowering plants. Nobody smoked any chemicals. Then I took clones from chemically treated plants and then grew them outside ORGANICALLY in the ground and then took more cuts that I rooted to grow inside. These cuts were never treated with chemicals. They are twice removed clones from treated plants. There is no chemicals left in them. If you understand about half-life of chemicals you know they are long gone. To argue against that would be against accepted science. Avid and Forbid are not radioactive. Their half-lives are measured in weeks and months not years and decades and certainly not forever.
I am done treating and you will be preventative treating forever the way you ogbiowar guys talk. I like my buds natural. You like your buds with fungus and bacteria colonies on it. I know they don't hurt you but they are still there. You can call your buds Activia buds. Sounds yummy.
Sorry, no pix, and I'm not here to be interrogated by you. Anyone who has been paying attention knows the difference between the eggs. One has bumps, one doesn't.
Pictures of both types have been posted a dozen times in this thread, or just Google it and up they pop. Easy to distinguish the difference between them. Mine were cyclamen, but it is entirely possible to have both types.
There is no difference between treatment, despite your "in depth research".
Seeing that people have been having problems brewing teas, and problems with application rates & humidity, it's evident that there is plenty of room for error when using this product. That means there is plenty of room for user error, which I'm guessing is the issue, but for you to make a blanket statement that it didn't work, and since you have cyclamen mites, then it doesn't work on cyclamen mites is absurd. The treatments for each are the same.
And, I am not pushing this or any other product.
Heat kills mites dead, with zero environmental impact, and that's what I recommend. Had you heat treated, you wouldn't be having any issues.
Ive been using og biowar and am starting to see bm damage on plants in early bloom. I just need alittle clarification to be sure im doing things correctly. directions say ''when you apply humidity is best at 60%". so after you apply do u guys keep it at 60%? I ve been keeping mine between 45-55%. could be the prob. ive also been spraying every 7 days. new damage is gonna get it every 4 days. im all ears guys thanx!
O
OrganicOzarks
Best to do it at lights off when the humidity will spike. for a couple of weeks you want to do it every 3-4 days to knock them out. Then after a few weeks switch to once per week.
I will say that I sprayed Monday, and Friday for 2 months just to make sure they were gone. Guess what? They were gone.
O
OrganicOzarks
A link is not copying and pasting. I was speaking from experience.
However it seems a lot of people don't understand how products like these work. So I provided links for the people that asked how this works.
Funny that you went through my posts. Very flattering.
OO- thanx for the quick response. so I don't need to keep my humidity up even after I treat then? only when I m applying ogbw correct? i raise my rh by just spraying water on the floor/walls, raises the rh pretty quickly and will stay above 60% after i spray ogbw for several hours. but will come down to 50ish % after. thanx again!
O
OrganicOzarks
The longer you keep the humidity up the better. With lights out some of my rooms were around 85% until lights on. I think the key in the beginning is to do it every 3 days or so until your knock them out.
A little earlier I posted a couple of abstracts on two of the fungi species in OGB. One worked best when the RH was around 86% or higher (in petri dishes), the other needed closer to 100% (also in petri dish). Both studies, however, claimed that they tolerated a slightly better range of humidity and enjoyed greater success on an actual leaf surface as opposed to in a petri dish.
I don't think the fungal spores die if the humidity drops to low, they just won't germinate. So, the longer you can keep the humidity high, the longer they have to infect the BM. If it dips down, they will become inactive, but when it raises again, they should become viable again. I could be wrong on this, though. I'm neither a mycologist nor a microbiologist.
I don't think the fungal spores die if the humidity drops to low, they just won't germinate. So, the longer you can keep the humidity high, the longer they have to infect the BM. If it dips down, they will become inactive, but when it raises again, they should become viable again. I could be wrong on this, though. I'm neither a mycologist nor a microbiologist.
how long will you see new BM damage still start to appear after killing them? i've heard that new damage will still show up 2 weeks later. is that true?
also on my quarantined earthshaker og from PO i have found another pest besides BM's. there are small white worms with black heads and they are a couple millimeters long. they are all over on the roots of the clones. they are eating the roots and turning them orange. they are tiny and look like a wiggling roots that can barely be seen. at the moment i'm not too worried. i'm hoping the BT k or i in the ogbiowar will handle them.
oh, and does avid, forbid, or kontos kill bacteria or fungus? i would hate to murder all my microbes accidentally one day.
also on my quarantined earthshaker og from PO i have found another pest besides BM's. there are small white worms with black heads and they are a couple millimeters long. they are all over on the roots of the clones. they are eating the roots and turning them orange. they are tiny and look like a wiggling roots that can barely be seen. at the moment i'm not too worried. i'm hoping the BT k or i in the ogbiowar will handle them.
oh, and does avid, forbid, or kontos kill bacteria or fungus? i would hate to murder all my microbes accidentally one day.
O
OrganicOzarks
Bubble up 1 cup of neem cake in a 5 gallon bucket fpr 36-48 hours(should smell like onions and rotten garlic if done right), and soil drench 3 days apart 4 times in a row, and it will kill most everything in the root zone. Not the good stuff though.
S
SooperSmurph
Any way to calculate the actual azadirachtin ppms when making neem from the solid cakes OO?
O
OrganicOzarks
Very interesting question. The first thing to keep in mind is that not all neem oil, and cake are the same. They all vary with "potency." neemresource is suppose to have the Highest quality product on the market. I believe ClackamasCoot posted the exact numbers in a thread somewhere. They were up to twice as "potent" with active ingredients.
That being said I think this question should be looked at like the effects of medical marijuana. The combination of the chemicals in marijuana provide it's different effects. The same could be said about neem. Is it only this one chemical that needs to me measured? Probably not.
All I can do is speak from experience. I have used Azamax, and those type products. They are extremely expensive, and I had no luck with them at all. I can buy a 50lb bag of neem cake for $52, and get it shipped for around $40. So for $92 dollars I can make an ass load of neem cake tea that is way more effective than Aza-type Products.
I have had the same bag for over a year now, and I still have 1/3 of the bag left.
I guess the short answer would be, "no I don't know how to measure the azadirachtin PPM."
The one thing I do know is I don't know if that is the right question to be asking.
CannaBandit
Member
Im using ogbiowar foliar and root pack 20 ml per gallon brewed and sprayed with an atomizer every 3 days. Im also doing repeated heat treatments and im in week 2 of flower. Im running 2-3 aspririn per gallon. My plants are looking better then they have in 3 years. Ive seen with my own eyes the benefit of aspirin and heat treatments but im unsure if the teas are effecting the BMs. But I like the ogbiowar products anyway because the plants seem to like it. To be fair the heat treatments could be cooking the organisms in the Biowar. I foliar the Biowar pretty much immediately after the heat treatment when the leaves are still pointed up.
Yes, you can use aspirin @ 3 per gallon, no problem. Won't hurt plants. As I posted before, I had nice harvest using ONLY aspirin before I knew what it was I had. Doesn't kill mites, but does negate the effects of the toxins. Keep the aspirin going throughout the grow. Always in the rez.....
S
SooperSmurph
The effects of azadirachtin are based on dosage, the data that SS presented from the study conducted on chili peppers in Brazil showed that normal usage rates (less than .5 g / gallon) did not cause population growth to fall into the negatives, only the super aggressive dosage (higher than .5g/gal) was able to achieve the desired result.Very interesting question. The first thing to keep in mind is that not all neem oil, and cake are the same. They all vary with "potency." neemresource is suppose to have the Highest quality product on the market. I believe ClackamasCoot posted the exact numbers in a thread somewhere. They were up to twice as "potent" with active ingredients.
That being said I think this question should be looked at like the effects of medical marijuana. The combination of the chemicals in marijuana provide it's different effects. The same could be said about neem. Is it only this one chemical that needs to me measured? Probably not.
All I can do is speak from experience. I have used Azamax, and those type products. They are extremely expensive, and I had no luck with them at all. I can buy a 50lb bag of neem cake for $52, and get it shipped for around $40. So for $92 dollars I can make an ass load of neem cake tea that is way more effective than Aza-type Products.
I have had the same bag for over a year now, and I still have 1/3 of the bag left.
I guess the short answer would be, "no I don't know how to measure the azadirachtin PPM."
The one thing I do know is I don't know if that is the right question to be asking.
I personally don't think mixing different neem products alters their effectiveness, except by increasing the total amount of azadirachtin present, i've combined Einstein Oil with Azamax in several different ratios and never noticed more effective control vs high dose azamax alone. I haven't tried adding the oil to the high dose aza much, because my experiences have shown that .7g/gal is around the edge of the plant's tolerance for the azadirachtin, anything higher and there is a lot more noticeable crisping and curling.
sednal
Active member
Everything you said in this post has been almost on. I wiped mine out with extreme heat and cold. If your environment is extremely hostile to them and DEADLY....give them a dose of it for awhile......yeah i had to chop the infested grow and veg but now i am back.
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