WTF, overnight Ca/K def, burn?

[Seal-Clubber]

Buddy over night does not cause this.

Yes it does.. over-watering with too rich of fertilizer and plenty of light. Over-watering with high fertilizer has rotted the roots and the plant is saying, "i`m dying". take a look at my gallery and tell me I don`t know what I`m talking about. ps - your albums are filled with cartoons. lol



spraying too much junk on the leaves is bad but cal-mag? I can hit my shit with tones of it. It CAN clog up the pores on the leaves and this can choke the respiration of the leaf, this will aid in further problems. I suggest spraying the leaves with pH water @ 6.8.. This will wash off any clogging the leaves may have from the cal-mag. and BTW, you don`t need cal-mag, you need to fix the root problem.



The serious truth is, take a look at that third picture... that is not run-off burn from cal-mag spray. That is discoloration between the veins of the leaves, this is a root problem. The mega-loads of light he is using will push the plants to their limits. The more you do this, the faster problems can happen. Only an exp grower will know this.

The leaves started curling down because the soil is not aerated enough and roots lost their uptake of calcium. spraying too much on a dying leaf will not cure the problem, only make it worse if it clogs the pores on the leaves.

Need your soil to drain more, dont feed it anything but ph 6.8 water - if your ppm is 3000 or so. Use more perlite. 6.8 is good because it will rebound your low pH(salts + water) and stagnate rotting. Poke large holes into the soil so it can air-out better. You can grab 1/2" hoses and poke holes in them, put a few about 6inches deep in the soil with the tops sticking out, around the base of the plant.

This will help you air out the soil faster, also place a fan blowing on the soil tops too. You still need to flush a little but that soil needs to dry out more or else your roots will rot and plants will die if you continue to flood the root zone. You are going to have problems if your Total Dissolved Solids remains at 3000, you have TONES of light, too much TDS/ECC, and too much water stagnation in root-zone.

good luck!

 

[bobman]

hahaha is this a joke or something. So in ur expert opinion this was from overwatering. U have no clue. Stop giving advice. Did u really just type that. I will tell you what kid why dont we just take a poll on the bs u just wrote. And why dont u read the first post instead of commenting in ignorance. Classic. Unbelievable.

 

[Seal-Clubber]

hahaha is this a joke or something. So in ur expert opinion this was from overwatering. U have no clue. Stop giving advice. Did u really just type that. I will tell you what kid why dont we just take a poll on the bs u just wrote. And why dont u read the first post instead of commenting in ignorance. Classic. Unbelievable.

Wow... you are a really terrible person. You are placed on Ignore.

 

[bobman]

U sound like my mother. Fuck her too.

 

[Seal-Clubber]

U sound like my mother. Fuck her too.

My wife is looking at me laughing my arse off right now... I think she thinks i`m crazy but dude.. thats kinda funny a little.

 

[bobman]

thought u would enjoy. have a good one.

 

[D350]

Thank you all for advice.
I lowered the lights output, spray them only with water one time per day and made some holes for soil aeration. Things are starting to look better now.

Is this Ca or K def/block that makes those spots on leaves? I can not tell...

Thank you

 

[Seal-Clubber]

Is this Ca or K def/block that makes those spots on leaves? I can not tell...

Thank you

In the last picture, look at the twisted top leaf. That means pH too low for a minute, you fed a single or 2 watering with low pH. This threw off your nute-uptake - causing lockout.


Cal-Mag is one of those things which I never use. I use Mag-sulfate (Epsom salt), and my tap water and organic fert has plenty of calcium. Sometimes my stuff wants magnesium.

The need for calcium usually is from non-aerated soil and too wet of soil. This prevents calcium from up-taking into the plant's roots.

The good news is you have light green leaves at the tops. This means new life and growth. And another great piece of advice; Its MUCH easier to over-fert a plant rather than under. Back off the nutes and let those plants go on a diet, they are bursting their seems with plant calories. !

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

u burnt the shit out of your plants plain and simple. Probably what every u foilered them with...

done it myself and it looks just like this... give them 2 weeks they grow out of it. i doubt it was a feeding most likely the foliar.

 

[PoopyTeaBags]

Foliar Spray Damage

This ^ i guarantee it.

 

[bobman]

Can I get an amen. Op if u learned anything from this its just test a plant before giving them anything new. I do it on anything new coming into the garden no matter what it is. And seal clubber I understand ur point. 99 percent of the time I see trouble in here its from overwatering and new growers not understanding the wet dry cycle but I just dont believe thats the case here.

 

[Messodas]

Thank you all for advice.
I lowered the lights output, spray them only with water one time per day and made some holes for soil aeration. Things are starting to look better now.

Is this Ca or K def/block that makes those spots on leaves? I can not tell...

Thank you

No Ca or K defect.
It's a plastic outgasing. Did you place anything plastic new to the grow?
With lights on to the plastic? It's like tend outgassing.

Be careful

 

[Seal-Clubber]

I dont have much info on CannaCure but I found this:

CannaCure

Cannacure has been developed this to do two jobs at once.

* Controls plant pests by environmentally friendly and organic physical means
* Stimulates growth as a leave nutrient
CannaCure when used regularly basically traps the insects by developing a sticky surface on your leaves. When you have heavy infestation of for example whitefly, spider mite or mealybug, repeat spraying after 3 days and again if necessary after a further 3 days. Then weekly afterwards. But heavy infestations will not occur when CannaCure is applied thoroughly to upper and lower leaf surfaces on a weekly basis right up to harvesting time! Canna Cure ensures healthier plants, that concentrate on producing bigger fruits and increase yields.


Directions for concentrate: 330ml per litre - This product needs to be sprayed regularly to be effective

i would suggest not using it for a while and see what happens. I like Neem oil btw for spider mites in veg state. you should not bloom your plants until they return to a healthier state.


Found this on Ortus:

http://www.chinese-pesticide.com/insecticides/fenpyroximate.htm

APPLICATIONS
Biochemistry Inhibitor of mitochondrial electron transport at complex I. Mode of action Quick knockdown activity against larvae, nymphs and adults, mainly by contact and ingestion. Also some moulting inhibitory activity on nymphs. Uses Control of important phytophagous mites. Effective against Tetranychidae (spider mites), Tarsonemidae, Tenuipalpidae (false spider mites) and Eriophyidae in citrus, apple, pear, peach, grapes, etc. Phytotoxicity: Not phytotoxic to top fruit, citrus, tea, vegetables and ornamentals.

this was the only 2 things you sprayed on the leaves and/or some cal-mag at recommended dosage? And you have a TDS/ecc of 3000 and a messed up chinese pH pen - AND been heavy flushing lately?


it does not take a greener thumb or genius to find out what the killer is. btw, dont use too much light unless your plants can handle it. I usually have my plants under a Floro at that size. after a week or two later I use a 600w digital MH for 8sqft w/light mover. OR 2x 400 MH. Move up to the multi 600s when you plants are ready to handle it.

dont worry, buddy. I`ll give ya good advice!

 

[bobman]

U must also remember most pesticides directions are for outdoor environments., not high discharge indoor lamps big difference. Plus I dont know about the one from china but I dont trust anything from over there.

 

[bobman]

Plus I know I have seen on pesticides and other spray labels before about not applying when in direct light. Anyways I think we have beaten this to death.

 

[Buddle]

Good looking out Bobman.

 

[medicalmj]

Sounds/looks like phytotoxicity. Looking at Cannacure and Ortus I'd say the combination caused the phytotoxicity. Cannacure says it creates a "sticky layer" that pest stick to. And while Ortus, aka 5% Fenpyroximate, can be tank mixed with ferts. and adjuncts it is highly recommended to test first. IMHO the two are not compatible. I would never use two pescticides at once unless it is common practice in the commercial biz (I've never done it).

Also, never spray anything with light on or close to plants. This too can cause phytotoxicity.

 

[Seal-Clubber]

yup, I bet it`s a combo of all those things happening at the same time. Truck through it, brother!

btw, dont trust China! i hate everything made there, all junk.

 

[medicalmj]

..you should not bloom your plants until they return to a healthier state...

Great advise that will greatly increase yields.