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Sam_Skunkman's dry sift method

mofeta

Member
Veteran
Why did you edit your post? I was just going to ask where you said you didn't use stainless steel, because you didn't say that that I saw.

Just like when you said that you had told us that you "put the foam strips around the edges of the frame", when you had not. You had just listed the foam as something you used. When I asked you if the foam was attached to the screen, you evaded.
 
I had it typed in, and I guess it edited that part out. I do not use stainless.

I also edited out the part about the foam around the frame after I thought better about it. Guess it really doesn't matter, now. Lol.
 

mofeta

Member
Veteran
You said that the screen(s) were both mounted taut and not. Do you use more than one screen, one of them loose, one in a frame?
 

vapor

Active member
Veteran
thread title should be changed to something else maybe "ancient mystical eastern hash making, i will tell you then i will have to kill you......"

with a build in self destruct button...
 
C

Chamba

and since we're still playing 500 Questions

Wiz (and you too Sam, if you are watching..do feel free to chime in. This thread was yours after all!)

Does your method somehow involve the resin heads adhering to a surface, while the contaminants do not?
 
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C

Chamba

Here's some more Q's...and they're not related to one concept I have in mind, just wild random guesses.

Does the method involve a bowl(s) or a bowl with a screen on the bottom?

Is the area the resin heads are separated to not horizontal? (as in not on the "floor" and instead are collected from either the side walls or the "ceiling")

Is the frame, that your main mesh is attached to, metal or plastic?

Is the area where the resin heads are separated to flat/smooth or in someway corrugated/textured or it doesn't matter?
 
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EsterEssence

Well-known member
Veteran
I'm having problems with my internet hope they fix it today. No water is involved in my method. Common available at silkscreen printing supply stores screens. It does involve the resin heads adhering, how else could you separate them? No bowls only the screens.
 

EsterEssence

Well-known member
Veteran
Morning meltdown...
 

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gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
I have a really good old microscope to look at it with, just no way to take a pic with it. I was taught that pressed is by far the way to store it. I have some from 2 years ago and has lost nothing as good as the day i made it. pressing breaks the crystals and releases the oils to bind it together. In All of my travels I never saw anyone that knew about the shirak that did not press it.

the whole pressing and or working the hash concept is complicated.

on the whole we do know that pressed hash will keep better over many years if it's pressed. it makes a kind of skin that helps to protect the inside.

the thing is that pressing it does change it, in most cases with less then perfect dry sift the press will increase the quality and change the taste for the better.

but once your dry sift is really clean, pressing it is a sin imo. if kept cool, dry and dark it will keep for many years if needed. they always smoke some of this 15 year old dry sift in the Hubble bubble pipes at the hash dinner run by Sam during hightimes cannabis cup and that stuff is blowing peoples minds year for year.
.
i wouldn't be pressing stuff of the quality in the latest pics DSW posted. much easier to dose it as a powder. but if you have some dry sift that is fresh and ticklish in your throat despite being a good quality from your pollinator, you can turn it into killer hash by just storing it a year or 2. in that time all the chlorophyll left in the leaf particles have time to evaporate and convert. this takes away the ticklish aspect of smoking it and turns it into some killer classic Afghan tasting hash
 
Here's some more Q's...and they're not related to one concept I have in mind, just wild random guesses.

Does the method involve a bowl(s) or a bowl with a screen on the bottom?

No bowl.

Is the area the resin heads are separated to not horizontal? (as in not on the "floor" and instead are collected from either the side walls or the "ceiling")

No.

Is the frame, that your main mesh is attached to, metal or plastic?

Neither.

Is the area where the resin heads are separated to flat/smooth or in someway corrugated/textured or it doesn't matter?

Doesn't really matter.. I prefer a smooth surface though as it's easier to card up after you're done. I like using those fake 'wood' top tables that fold out.. nice and smooth and stay cool to the touch almost all the time.

I have had friends who got giant pieces of black plexi made as well.. but it kinda was 'sticky' if that makes any sense.
 
I'm having problems with my internet hope they fix it today. No water is involved in my method. Common available at silkscreen printing supply stores screens. It does involve the resin heads adhering, how else could you separate them? No bowls only the screens.

Haha.. apparently there are other ways ;)

Mine doesn't involve that.
 
@ Ester, What does "it does involve the resin heads adhering.." mean?
?
~mack.

Either by static or by heat, i'm guessing.

I could envision a way of dropping resin onto some kinda 'warm' plate.. making them soft and possibly 'sticking' to the surface.. while something is used to absorb lighter materials up off like the balloon method.

Hmm.. Interesting, for sure.
 
C

Chamba

I have had friends who got giant pieces of black plexi made as well.. but it kinda was 'sticky' if that makes any sense.

Acrylic isn't the best material especially if it has been used for awhile and has been scratched by lots of carding, but it does transport well, I find that a thick sheet of glass is the ideal material to collect resin on.
 
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C

Chamba

I could envision a way of dropping resin onto some kinda 'warm' plate.. making them soft and possibly 'sticking' to the surface..

There's a method called "rosination" or something like that, it was a solventless method to make an oil type hash that was posted here a few years back about taking low to medium grade press dry sifted hash and by using the back of a spoon, rubbing the hash over the inside of a hot metal bowl ... eventually the resin sticks to the sides of the bowl and the remaining crumbly hash is noticeably weaker, a blade was used to scrape off the melted resin from the sides of the bowl and the resulting solventless oil was a strong as solvent extracted oils....but it never really caught on...
 

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