The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

[CountryGoldGuy]

 

[OptionDork]

By the by, I've been reading Michael Philips' "The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way" and I think there's a lot of advice on maintaining system health and dealing with pests that carries over very nicely to the multiple big plants you norcal guys are growing. His ethos is definitely in line with most of us here

High brix plants typically don't have pest/disease issues or at the least are dramatically minimized.

 

[Greeseyder]

Reach4thesky you are rockin' it in the PNW! What strains you running? I'm in BC & need to get more strains that are mega mold resistant.

G

 

[Urbngroz]

Its getting pretty smokey in Butte today .Not sure where the fires are,not much info online about it. I hope everyone gets through the rest of the year without any issues

 

[milkyjoe]

Hi , I've been working with Dave for a few years now and we both follow the same principles when it comes to farming, those laid out by Tainio, Albrecht, and Reams.

The NorCal Blend itself is right in range for BCSR , pH , CEC...After a year of growing in it , the exchangeable nutrients were still off the charts, in other words; no amendment required, just biology to access the exchangeable cache. When I added more soil on top and charged my new mounds, the soluble nutrients all went off the charts in the right ratio.

I do my blend a little different than the standard NorCal blend now and include some things that are trade secrets at this point.

I have been hovering around a sap pH of 6.2 to 6.4 , Brix of 18-22, because these two readings have been hovering in the perfect zones I haven't used any other meters this year.

Here is a recent pic of an Betsy plant.

Have you thought about using tiny amounts of Biogenesis II and Pepzyme to jack that biology up next yr? I would be guessing you would have to be careful with it.

I am thinking about it myself. Just a hair worried cause I tend to be a little heavy handed.

On my bigger holes brix is right in that range also but sap pH is like 6.5-6.6. I might could have used a hair more phosphate.

On my smaller pots it is a struggle, constant manipulations to keep numbers decent. There is no substitute for big soil...I am a 100% believer.

 

[stickyicky009]

hi ~

I wanted to ask ya'll a couple o things.

do ya'll follow a constant watering schedule for the whole garden??

.. or you treat each plant individually and water them when they start to droop ???

and ..

for a couple of weeks now , I've been noticing the bluedream new leafs in the highest part of the plant are kind of " weak " ...



however, the rest of the plant looks fine ..


... first I thought its a rootbound issue ,, but the'res no yellowing ..

... then I thought maybe too much water ,, so I've let it dry out and nothing changes ..

... then I figured maybe she is hungry for some nute .. but again ,no yellowing ...

... it also crossed my mind those parts of the plant are a bit " stressed " from dealing with the netting and the wind ... but some weak leafs are not touching the netting ..

... last couple of weeks where particularly rainy , can it be she just wants to get desert dry ?


any helpful advise is more than welcome ~ thx in advance

 

[stickyicky009]

other than that , girls are all happy happy happy .....Tahoe is fast, frosty & stinky ..




and granddaddy is putting up some purple already



Biglove ~ hope alls good in ya'lls side of the hill ~

 

[Carlos Danger]

I think I made it through without needing netting this year. The White Romulan seems to have capped at 6ft. and the branches are *strong*. I was debating netting just to get a better structure but two weeks into bloom I probably should have done that a month ago.

 

[GreenHands13]

hi ~

I wanted to ask ya'll a couple o things.

do ya'll follow a constant watering schedule for the whole garden??

.. or you treat each plant individually and water them when they start to droop ???

and ..

for a couple of weeks now , I've been noticing the bluedream new leafs in the highest part of the plant are kind of " weak " ...

[URL=http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o533/ickybuds2012/DSC08344_zpsbc5348ac.jpg]View Image[/URL]

however, the rest of the plant looks fine ..
[URL=http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o533/ickybuds2012/DSC08339_zps248952f7.jpg]View Image[/URL]

... first I thought its a rootbound issue ,, but the'res no yellowing ..

... then I thought maybe too much water ,, so I've let it dry out and nothing changes ..

... then I figured maybe she is hungry for some nute .. but again ,no yellowing ...

... it also crossed my mind those parts of the plant are a bit " stressed " from dealing with the netting and the wind ... but some weak leafs are not touching the netting ..

... last couple of weeks where particularly rainy , can it be she just wants to get desert dry ?


any helpful advise is more than welcome ~ thx in advance

I had this happening two weeks ago to a few plants I thought they needed to dry to but wasnt sure so I soaked one riducoulous ran about 100+ gallons of water on her there in 4 yrd holes I gave one some ej catalyst and some ej grow then I just left the other one to dry after maybe 3 or 4 hours when I came back the one I super soakes had picked right up. The three that had the issues are on a watering system and 2 of my sprayers were semi clogged and not putting out as much water as they should have been so the deep roots starting dieing off. Is it only affecting the top of the plant? Thats what was going on with mine im soaking everthing every other day with 100 gallons. Hope this helps

 

[GreenHands13]

 

[Veg N Out]

Killer Spacing! I wish I had this much room in my gardens!

Next year I will do less plants in the patches I have and add more! It's always a process!

Big up Green Hand13

 

[stickyicky009]

thx, I felt it in my nuggets ... when watered continuously plants grew constant 30 inches per month ... but since I started the " wait for them to droop " system .. they stopped constant growth, and the biggest most sativa girl (BD) started putting out those weak leafs on top... makes sense,, the bottom root is not wet enough to get the needed h2o all the way up there ... again , thx for the tip. puff puff

only time will tell now ... Yeah Buddy~ have a good season ya'll !!!!

Good vibe~

 

[Yes4Prop215]

nice bushes green hands, when did those get planted? how do you avoid issues with water logged roots, are those mounds right on top of native soil or is there a aerated barrier of some kind? makes me we want to supersoak but im always hesitant about overwatering..good to know maybe il have to go try this out on a few plants.

 

[GreenHands13]

nice bushes green hands, when did those get planted? how do you avoid issues with water logged roots, are those mounds right on top of native soil or is there a aerated barrier of some kind? makes me we want to supersoak but im always hesitant about overwatering..good to know maybe il have to go try this out on a few plants.

No mounds there 8 x 8 x 2 feet deep holes im at 4600 foot elevation on the north east face of the sierrs right were it meets the cascades so im in straight decomposing granite it wicks moisture well and stays aereated. I planted everything around the first of june which is earlier then normal I always get a freeze the first week of june where im at but the weather was warmer then normal this year. But I have learned over the last few years that most problems are uneven waterings in the root zone if you water a 300 gallon pot with 30 gallons of water when there young and filling the pot with roots everything looks beautiful but as they get bigger and fill the entire pot with roots 30 gallons no longer completley saturates the root zone so parts of the root zone start dieing off. If parts of your root zone start to die the plant has to shed leaves in order to supply the rest of the plant with adequate water if the top part of your plant starts doing something funny and the sides and bottom look great most of the time the problem stems from inadequate soakings. And another word of advice when its in the 90's daily and pots are filled with roots it would be hard to water log the root zone. I always say when there big this late in the year saturate like crazy and let dry for a day.

 

[GreenHands13]

Killer Spacing! I wish I had this much room in my gardens!

Next year I will do less plants in the patches I have and add more! It's always a process!

Big up Green Hand13

I have mostly all 16 to 17 foot off centers
Thanx veg n out appreciate that cool to hear good things about my garden especially from you

 

[Veg N Out]

I also do the saturate like crazy and skip a day right now. Giving my plants any where from 75-150 gallons of water each.

 

[Veg N Out]

Have you thought about using tiny amounts of Biogenesis II and Pepzyme to jack that biology up next yr? I would be guessing you would have to be careful with it.

I am thinking about it myself. Just a hair worried cause I tend to be a little heavy handed.

On my bigger holes brix is right in that range also but sap pH is like 6.5-6.6. I might could have used a hair more phosphate.

On my smaller pots it is a struggle, constant manipulations to keep numbers decent. There is no substitute for big soil...I am a 100% believer.

I used BioGenesis I and the Pepzyme M, . It works. I had it applied @ the Worm Soil Factory using their windrow machine that has a sprayer attached.

 

[GreenHands13]

Hey I cant figure out how to replie to visitor messages is it cause I dont have enough post?

 

[bobblehead]

I'm not a big plant guy so please excuse me if I'm out of line... But you guys are talking about soil tests and refractometers... Rather than speculate on moisture levels and irrigation frequency, why aren't you using tensiometers?

 

[Veg N Out]

Do you mean a system like this? www.ranchsystems.com