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CA Bugs, Worms, and Disease Thread 2013

I'll start this off with the prediction 2013 will have a bumper crop of moths and worms this year in CA.
Lots of butterfly's checking out the back yard and I see some worm eggs in buds already. I've sprayed twice in the past 10 days for worms with a Bt cocktail and also used a Ed Rosenthal recipe for essential oil sprays.
I knew the bugs that used to live in the rose bushes would find my bog babies more tasty and delicious.

Best of luck all.

What are the reports from the northern counties?
 
I've been foliar spraying with OGBIOWAR which has Bt and other goodies in preparation for the coming moths and bud worms. I've been spraying twice per week but about to cut back to once per week. I haven't seen any worms but I have seen some hornworms on my tomatoes. I haven't seen to many moths either but I have a bug zapper that turns on at dusk that might help as well.
 

northstate

Member
ICMag Donor
Far up north towards Oregon so it's just starting to stack for us but seems to be about normal for pesky things so far. Pretty hot July and maybe the lack of water killed the population a bit? Cats have been seen last season but only four burrowed and killed anything worth mentioning. Foliar twice a week and pay pretty close attention will be cutting that and doing a few Bt and Actinovate sprays before things get real. Good luck!
 
Beginnings of mold? Looks like mini mushroom

Beginnings of mold? Looks like mini mushroom

Here is a weird filament with a fuzzy white head growing out of a leaf. It popped out after adding a small amount of molasses.
 

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northstate

Member
ICMag Donor
I dont think so but I wouldn't spray anything last two/three weeks, try to count on healthy plants and stay a few steps ahead of the organic nute cycling taking place. Stuff seems pretty benign in the odor/residue dept. but have not noticed any ill effects from Actinovate, and it is better tasting than pm right?
 

Noonin NorCal

Active member
Veteran
/Users/michaelj/Desktop/20130630_111246516.png. Im not sure if this is posting or not but i thought it was mites but these bugs are dark and have a shell like top kind of look like a tick under a powerful scope?
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
hey guys im looking to add some kind of moth repellant to my IPM for moths/cats and wondering exactly what to do.

Im already spraying with neem oil to help keeps bugs away, and BT for any caterpillars about to hatch.


I wuold really like to use some kind of moth repellant like napthelene or whatever else they use, i had a ridiculous idea about buying mothballs in bulk and hanging them from my trellis netting. Or finding the active ingrediant, buying that, and applying as a foliar to the tops of leaves, but i understand this is risky.

Maybe instead of applying it to the plant i can paint it on to the bamboo trellis supports and on anything non plant in the garden. Or hang towels soaked in the solution around the place. Just brainstorming, Napthelene is actually very dangerous in concentrated qualities.



ive been reading non stop on moth prevention and literally cannot find shit, its mostly all related to preventing moths from attacking your closets. the agricultural sites all recommend the usual BT and reproductive disrupters. heres some info i found from on AG website..

There are many insecticides labeled for use against gypsy moth; however, NCDA&CS only uses the environmentally friendly insecticides detailed below, as others are more toxic to nontarget organisms or harmful to the environment.

Btk (Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki, trade name Foray® 76B)

Btk is a bacterium commonly found in forest soils worldwide. It has become one of the most valuable biological pest management tools for a variety of agricultural, forestry, and urban pests. While it is highly toxic to target pests, it is very safe in regard to humans and animals. For example, different formulations of the same biopesticide are labeled to be applied to organic grains such as shelled corn and soybeans during storage and/or to organic bagged grains (popcorn) to prevent Indian meal moth. Here is a link to Organic Gardening which refers to the use of Btk in the home vegetable garden to control cabbage loopers.

http://www.organicgardening.com/feature/0,7518,s-2-9-266,00.html

Btk must be consumed by caterpillars to be effective. Once ingested, the alkaline gut of the caterpillar activates the bacteria. Note that, as humans and animals have acidic rather than alkaline digestive tracts, the bacteria is harmless to us. Caterpillar feeding ceases; within several days, the caterpillar has died. Btk is unique in being highly effective while also being environmentally friendly. Btk is effective at all gypsy moth population densities. Btk is highly sensitive to solar radiation; thus, care must be taken to apply the product at exactly the correct time.

Nucleopolyhedrosis virus (Gypchek®) Caterpillar

Gypchek is a naturally-occurring virus that only targets gypsy moth. It is applied by airplane or helicopter. Under the right circumstances, spectacular epizootics can occur, leading to the collapse of gypsy moth populations.

Gypchek is only occasionally used to address gypsy moth infestations for two reasons. Because of the limited market, Gypchek is only manufactured by the US Forest Service and is available only in limited quantites. Also, like most viruses, Gypchek is highly communicable among individual larvae. For Gypchek to be successful, it must be passed from infected to uninfected larvae by physical contact. This only occurs at very high population densities.
Mimic® (Tibufenozide)

Tibufenozide is a pesticide in the class of insect growth regulators. This means that, once exposed to tibufenozide, caterpillars are unable to successfully molt and grow. This prevents them from reaching maturity and reproducing. Tibufenozide may be applied by air or ground, but is most commonly used for ground treatments. It is successful on all population densities.
Dimilin® (Diflubenzuron)

Like Mimic®, Dimilin® is an insect growth regulator which prohibits caterpillars from reaching maturity. Dimilin® may also applied by ground or air, but is most commonly applied from the ground. Like Mimic®, it is successful at all population densities.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
Does anyone know where to buy Mimic in Norcal? AGmart in chico doesnt carry it, and is gonna ask their distributors about it.
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
hey guys im looking to add some kind of moth repellant to my IPM for moths/cats and wondering exactly what to do.

i use pure neem oil as a soil drench and find that most leaf eating bugs don't come near my plants. i actually see moths fly up to my plants then fly away without landing and if caterpillars do hatch they end up dying. the only catch is you have to maintain the weekly application (5ml/litre/week). i recently ran out of neem and missed an application or two and got hammered by caterpillars....

good luck
 
V

Veg N Out

Seriously bro? You want to use insecticide like that? That is gross.. Look up Dipel DF, never had an issue with cats.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
i think dipel is BT, i want something that deters the moths from even landing around my garden.

i dont know too much about mimic, quick research showed that tibufenozide has low toxicity to anything besides insects...maybe a general spray into the vegetation surrounding the plants and not actually spray themselves. or just hanging some towels drenched with it from the trellis, so that the buds are not actually sprayed with it. " ebufenozide is a new insect growth regulator which interferes with the activity of ecdysone, thereby adversely affecting insects during moulting. Tebufenozide is a mimic of a natural hormone that exists in the larvae of lepidopteran insects that stops natural development."



i just want some creative new options on top of BT and neem oil specific for caterpillars! lol last year i wanted to start a bat colony on my ridge. i have a general hatred of moths, all insects really, i want to start taking some IPM courses so i can wage battle against insects better.



in all honestly last year i sprayed with just BT and neem and while we lost a few colas here and there, it wasnt even 1% of total crop loss to cats. so anything else may be considered overkill.
 
V

Veg N Out

That's what I'm trying to tell you.

You do not need to be using shit like Tebufenozide around your garden. If you use Dipel DF (which is BT-K) you will not have any issues.

If you're losing less than a lb to caterpillars, chalk it up to farming and put in one more plant next year to make up for it.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
true, only 1lb a year isnt worth busting out the insect growth regulators..

there is the worry that the moths come back hard, i think i might double up the neem sprays right now before colas develop.

i havent seen too many moths around this year yet, my hillside is invaded by wasps and yellowjackets, they are attracted to the compost teas like flies on shit.
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,


Last year I had a small issue with PM. I used Greencure to resolve the issue.

NOw Greencure literature says that the product is good for grey mold and botrytis(sp). Now how would I use the BT-k as a preventative and the Greencure as a preventative?

Spraying a benign bacteria on my plants is much more preferable to then a synthetic.

minds_I

minds_I
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
NEEM OIL FUNGICIDE USE:

For use on FRUITS, NUTS, VEGETABLES, HERBS, SPICES, ROSES, HOUSEPLANTS, FLOWERS, TREES, SHRUBS

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS :

Parker Neem Oil is an effective fungicide for the prevention and control of various fungal diseases including powdery mil-dew, black spot, downy mildew, anthracnose, rust, leaf spot, botrytis, needle rust, scab and flower, twig, tip blight, and alternaria. As a preventative, Neem Oil should be applied on a 7 to 14 day schedule until the potential for disease development is no longer present. To control disease already present, apply Neem Oil on a 7 day schedule until disease pressure is eliminated. Then continue spraying on a 14 day schedule to prevent the disease from reoccurring. To prevent rust leaf spot diseases, anthracnose and scab, begin applications at the first sign of spring budding. To prevent powdery mildew, apply in mid-summer or when disease is first detected. Applications should continue until disease pressure no longer exists.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS :

Mix Neem Oil at the rate of 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) per gallon of water. Thoroughly mix solution and spray all plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until completely wet. Frequently mix solution as you spray.

INSECTICIDE / MITICIDE USE:

For use on FRUITS, NUTS, VEGETABLES, HERBS, SPICES, ROSES, HOUSEPLANTS, FLOWERS, TREES, SHRUBS

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS :

Apply Parker Neem Oil at first sign of insects/mites. For control of aphids, spider mites, scale, whiteflies, beetles, leafrollers, and other insect pests. Neem Oil is most effective when applied every 7 to 14 days. For heavy insect populations, spray on a 7 day schedule.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS :

Mix Neem Oil at the rate of 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) per gallon of water. Thoroughly mix solution and spray all plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until completely wet. Frequently mix solution as you spray.

HOW TO USE :
1. Shake the Bottle well
2. Take 50 ML of the Parker neem™ oil(WS)
3. Add with 10 Liter of water and mix well
Spray using a knapsack sprayer or any suitable sprayer, within 8 hours of mixing.

You may use this both as a foliar spray on crops, and as a soil drench by spraying the soil near the crop roots. For most crops it is recommended that you repeat the spraying 5 times at intervals of 7 to 10 days each.

FROM HERE: http://www.organicneem.com/neem_water_soluable_uses.php

you are welcome ;)
 
I'm busting/busted out all the stuff, neem, spinosad, mineral oils with essential oils and garlic, serenade, and actinovate. Never had to use so much and still butterflies stop and hang out and I've seen bites taken out of sugar leaves.
Speaking of sugar I chewed a sun leaf on a plant things are especially attracted to, bogglegum, and it is sweet to the taste and I've been conservative on molasses.
 

DimeBag65

You will not be forgotten
Veteran
what have you guys found to work best for thrips.... i have found solutions to about everything else... and have been using neem, spinosad and a few other sprays and nothing seems to phase the thrip damage much.... iv had em every year but they never did much damage and were usually the lower leaves... but this year seems worse....
 
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