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My best elite is having severe issues. Leaf curl. Please help!

whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
So out of all my genetics, this one is by far the best. And it is the only one having issues. :(

First, let me say this is NOT broad or cyclamen mites. I have scoped this cut with many expensive microscopes at 20-400x resolution for 40+ hours. never confirmed an egg, adult, larvae or anything.

I am in canna coco, some straight some mixed with hydroton. I was feeding 5ml FN Grow and 2-4ml CalMag (and tried CaliMagic.)

Now i'm using PBP Veg @ ~12ml/gal and CalMag or Calimagic at 2-3ml gal. just switched so still trying to dial, but that has been working for the rest of my strains.

~800ppm (.5)

pH has been 5.7-5.9 but i'm trying out 6.0 now in hopes of allowing more magnesium absorption.

These have always been under HPS and the issue has gotten worse since moving to a significantly brighter 12kw room from a 4kw veg room. I will add pics in an hour or so when lights turn on.

from a week ago

stage 1 pre-leaf curl
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and then this starts...
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whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
and i have some more advanced photos in which a balanced heavy16 veg is being used. other strains are happy except this particular cut.

coco/perlite mix.

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O

OrganicOzarks

I know you say it's not, but that damn sure looks like broad mites. I just got rid of them, and that is what they look like.
 
W

willyweed

i would try feeding only ph 6 water ,give it time, a few days and look for colour coming back into the leaves.if fact i would probably flush them x3 pot size with the ph 6 water (NO FEED) .it also pays to have 2x ph pens to be sure! goodluck willyweed
 
E

EveryOneSmokes

What elite is it? Can you elaborate, is she a heavy feeder or light feeder? Do you notice any issue with the root system? Any visible pest in the rootzone?

Looks like you my have a major lock out, due to salt build up in your medium.. Could also be your rootzone is not well developed causing salt build up as well...
 

talktosamson

Active member
Veteran
I know you say it's not, but that damn sure looks like broad mites. I just got rid of them, and that is what they look like.

That's exactly what BM damage looks like on my plants. Burnt spots, fried tips, curled leaves. It has all the symptoms....
 

whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
simplysour- ph meters are fine, all 4 have been calibrated and 2 are brand new. thanks for the suggestion, i would guess ph and in turn lockout as well.

OrganicOzarks- like i said, it's not broad or cyclamen mites. this is NOT a pest related issue, rootzone included.

willyweed- perhaps it's a really low ppm strain... i am going to flush with a 350ppm solution of PBP, CalMag and dripclean. i used to use dripclean but cut it out when i dialed my feedings for the other strains.

EveryOneSmokes- 'PK' not sure on how she wants to be fed yet, hence the issues. i am going to try lowering ppms for her and look for improvement.

no problems evident in the rootzone. is actively growing roots in new containers. no visible pests on surface or during transplant. coco is treated with IMID (Merit75) before transplant.

thank you for your help. something in the rootzone is out of balance.

talktosamson- i know, that's why i prefaced the thread with 'this is NOT broad mites' because i know it isn't. every area of growth has been inspected meticulously by multiple people for MANY hours.

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a bit more info, and one of the reasons i finally stopped looking for broad mites. plants severly affected with this ailment have been flowered recently at another spot and they are frosty. the larger and higher ppm plants continue to have some leaf curl, but no dudding. odor is pungent. other flowering plants (same strain) being fed lower ppms in flower are looking very light colored lime green almost a bit yellow, but no curl at all. smaller nugs. those plants were flipped a bit too early and have under-developed rootzones, they often are only fed once every 5-6 days.

so yeah, another sign pointing towards lower ppms being more favorable.

i will check runoff after my 350ppm watering.



THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR QUICK REPLIES! :)
 
E

EveryOneSmokes

I would definitely flush with a low ppm, you should also check run-off ppm and ph.. If ur run of ph is low can be an indicator of salt build up cause lock out...

On second look of you pics she should respond after the flush, the plants stem and petioles are dark red which is a good sign of distress.. Best if luck turning her around..
 

MagniKhan

Active member
Veteran
Are you running cO2 ( could swear I saw one in your thread)? If so what is the ppm at night?
I have some c99BX1 that gets real bitchy with high ppm's of cO2 at night and not swinging the ph from 5.5 up to 5.9.
 

whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
EveryOneSmokes- just finished, ~350ppm ph 6.0 going in, 40gal through 10 3gal pots. i only tested 1 runoff bucket, and it was at 1000ppm pH 6.4. definitely some salt buildup going on because i haven't broken 800ppm in.

so is that a sign of a strain being a heavy drinker, but a light feeder? i'm gonna start feeding at ~1EC. also gonna add dripclean back, because i had an experience with plants putting out 3000ppm while flushing but have no apparent ill effects but they had dripclean @ 1ml full cycle.

thanks man, i think i'm getting somewhere.

MagniKhan- the plants at my spot haven't had CO2 yet.. but the plants after the first 5 photos, the worse off ones do have CO2 that has been having night time shutoff problems at that spot so i'll get on em about fixin it right away. good tip thanks man.

so how do you swing ph? each watering is different? 5.5, 5.7, then 5.9 in rotation? or are you in hydro?
 
W

willyweed

dont think they will take the 300 or if it will do any good.back to zero to know for sure.will not hurt them! they do looked locked out.anywhere between 5.5-6.2 ph as they drift up when the nutrient is being used
 
E

EveryOneSmokes

Definitely flush one more time with mild nutes ph'd at around 5.6 to bring the ph back down to a 5.8-6.2 range .. Then feed like normal strength and keep ph on the lower end of the ph range to continue to lower ph...

IMO, it is never wise to flush with 0 ppm in coco,does more harm
Then good to deprive them of food..

You also mentioned CO2.. I never run CO2 but I've heard of issue due to high ppm of it in the environment .. Might want to have someone chime in on this topic ...
Also what's your rh and temps, you may also have some nutrient uptake issue due vapor pressure deficit (VPD)
 

MagniKhan

Active member
Veteran
......

so how do you swing ph? each watering is different? 5.5, 5.7, then 5.9 in rotation? or are you in hydro?


I'm running DTW coco ( hand watered). I use a 30 gal rez, and check/ adjust my ph every AM. I set to 5.5 and let it drift up the rest of the day, usually about 5.9 by the end of the day. I feed Tap water with a little under one tsp per gallon of MB, works to around 800 ppm minus the tap waters ppm ( @220 ppm)
I used to keep tighter control of the ph but I ended up having problems that showed up big time in some c99BX1 I have.

MK:ying:
 
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