Red Oil

[r543]

Hey Guys,

Was toying around with making some red oil. Wanted to think through my process and get some feedback.

1. Going to use hexane on starting material. 15 to 1 solvent ratio seems to be an industry standard in the oil extraction business.

2. on a magnetic stirring hotplate heat solvent at 45C for 180 mins stirring at 90 rpm

3. Filter out remaining solids

4. Evaporate hexane using a rotary evaporator

5. on a magnetic stirring hotplate dissolve material into ethanol (3 to 1 solvent ratio) and heat at 55C for 180 mins stirring at 90rpm

6.place material into speration funnel and place in freezer for minimum 4 hours to allow waxes to solidify

7. Drain off procduct and discard waxes

8. Evaporate ethanol in rotary evaporator

9. Enjoy

Now first question is should I use dry, grinded shake as a starting feedstock, or should I turn into bubble hash and use that instead.

Thoughts??

 

[r543]

also the reason for the different heating temperatures correlates to their respective boiling points

 

[Lrus007]

need to start with pot that makes red hash.
i have 1 plant that does. others are all blond.
Lrus007

 

[r543]

I'm pretty sure red oil is a product of dual solvents, that's why Butane hash is always golden. Anyone else??

 

[Lrus007]

BHO is not always golden.
anyway good luck.
Lrus007

 

[Green Supreme]

I have made red oil many times, but only with 1 solvent. High 90's Iso. Put iso in a jar and freeze it. Put weed in freezer and freeze it. When both are as frozen ,as they can get. combine them and shake for 40 seconds. Run the material through a coffee filter to remove the weed. Evaporate off the alcohol and you are left with red oil. Have done it with many different strains ,as well as many strain together. Peace GS

ps. some times it comes out amber

 

[Lrus007]

hard to take photo's of a mason jar.
but here is lit on side and bottom with
my brightest flashlight.
Lrus007

 

[gunnaknow]

As Green Supreme suggested, you're more likely to produce red oleoresin (cherry oil) with solvents that have a somewhat polar nature such as ISO, ethanol and acetone. It's usually the carotenoids that give the oleoresin a particularly red colour, although the colour from the resin itself contributes to the colour. Carotenoids are divided into two groups, carotenes and xanthophylls. Carotenes are highly non-polar but the presence of oxygen groups make the xanthophylls more polar in nature. The carotenes are usually more orange in colour and the xanthophylls more yellow but both typically appear red in higher concentrations, due to the absorption of more blue light. Senescent cannabis leaves are usually more yellow in colour, suggesting that the xanthophylls are present in higher concentrations than the carotenes. With the xanthophylls being more polar in nature, they are more readily extracted by solvents like ISO, ethanol and acetone than highly non-polar solvents like hexane. Chlorophyll will also be extracted by such polar solvents, so unless it's a very quick wash the xanthophylls will become masked by the presence of chlorophyll. However, if the extraction time is longer, more of the xanthophylls and carotenes will be extracted and the chlorophyll can be bleached by leaving the solution in the sun for a few hours.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Hey Guys,

Was toying around with making some red oil. Wanted to think through my process and get some feedback.

1. Going to use hexane on starting material. 15 to 1 solvent ratio seems to be an industry standard in the oil extraction business.

2. on a magnetic stirring hotplate heat solvent at 45C for 180 mins stirring at 90 rpm

3. Filter out remaining solids

4. Evaporate hexane using a rotary evaporator

5. on a magnetic stirring hotplate dissolve material into ethanol (3 to 1 solvent ratio) and heat at 55C for 180 mins stirring at 90rpm

6.place material into speration funnel and place in freezer for minimum 4 hours to allow waxes to solidify

7. Drain off procduct and discard waxes

8. Evaporate ethanol in rotary evaporator

9. Enjoy

Now first question is should I use dry, grinded shake as a starting feedstock, or should I turn into bubble hash and use that instead.

Thoughts??

Hexane is highly forgiving, so no real advantage to extracting from hash instead of leaf and the yield would be lower.

Hexane takes some effort to purge below sensory thresholds, so you may have to throw an ethanol wash in there.

 

[r543]

Thanks for the comments all

L: Nice looking oil my friend. That's the color im going for. What strain is that from??

GunnaKnow and Gray Wolf: Thanks for the comments.

Here is my concern. When using polar solvents as a first wash you suck up all the chlolrophil, With the hexane I wont. Also not sure if you guys saw, or if I made it clear, but I will be doing a 2nd wash with ethanol.

Iso makes terrible tasking hash oil that's black as tar. if it doesn't, you didn't get all the canabinoids

 

[r543]

My point gunna is, if you don't need to extract the nasty chlorophil. Why?

 

[r543]

and just an fyi to anyone reading this. Hexane is a different form of butane with a higher boiling point. Butane is dangerous lol

 

[Green Supreme]

"Iso makes terrible tasking hash oil that's black as tar. if it doesn't, you didn't get all the canabinoids "

Our goals obviously differ, as I prefer quality too quantity. Few extraction methods "Get it all". Peace GS

 

[gunnaknow]

Here is my concern. When using polar solvents as a first wash you suck up all the chlolrophil, With the hexane I wont. Also not sure if you guys saw, or if I made it clear, but I will be doing a 2nd wash with ethanol.

Iso makes terrible tasking hash oil that's black as tar. if it doesn't, you didn't get all the canabinoids

If your concern is purity then why would you want to make red oleoresin, when it's often caused by impurities? Carotenoids might look prettier than chlorophyll but they're still impurities that will affect the burn and taste. If you want red oleoresin without chlorophyll then you can sometimes make it with butane/hexane. Xanthophylls are still somewhat soluble in such solvents. Some strains or chemotypes will also produce more carotenes within the plant cells, or more amber/red compounds within the resin glands. These could be readily extracted by non-polar solvents. It may be worth trying some strains that produce particularly bright orange stigmas, although this could be caused by a much higher concentration of xanthophylls as opposed to carotenes. You'd have to try them yourself to know for sure.

 

[gunnaknow]

You might like to read this thread. Be sure to check out the pics of cherry oil in post #18 too.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=173417

 

[SkyHighLer]

Here's a "Red Oil" technique,
Page 11, "the Pyschedelic Guide to Preparation of the Eucharist in a few of its many guises" as edited by Robert E. Brown & Associates of the Neo American Church League for Spiritual Development & Ultimate Authority of the Clear Light, 4th edition, 1975

 

[r543]

Maybe my term is incorrect. What I am looking for is as high purity as I can acheive. Yeild is not important. All the old school guys said red oil was the most pure.

Green Supreme: Maybe im misunderstanding you. But you feel using iso with one wash makes superior hash oil to a hexane/ethanol double wash process??Wont a double solvent process provide the same quality but collect more of the cannabinoids? IM a newb to the oil area so just trying to understand.

thanks gunna. Reading the link. Great info.

 

[gunnaknow]

Red oleoresin isn't necessarily the most pure. It was often purer than the other widely available grades, which were usually dark in colour. When the red colour was just down to it having been left in sunlight it wasn't purer but some of the other ways of making it red were by removing impurities. Things have moved on since those days though and the use of more selective solvents and quicker washes with less selective solvents, have produced purities that many of the old school guys probably rarely had the privilege to experience. It's not that selective solvents or very quick washes can't produce red oleoresin but they more often produce a honey or amber colour. The quality of the bud widely available on the market today is also higher than it used to be in the old days, aswel as fresher and this can have a bearing on the colour produced.

 

[jump117]

Carotenoids might look prettier than chlorophyll but they're still impurities that will affect the burn and taste.

Hey Gunnaknow!

What happens to the chlorophyll in the sun?

What is this red form of chl?

 

[gunnaknow]

Hey bro, it's good to see you about.

What is this red form of chl?

Chlorophylls and carotenoids are different pigments and one doesn't convert to the other. However, chlorophyll absorbs yellow, orange and red wavelengths of light and therefore masks the presence of the carotenoids. By removing or degrading the chlorophyll, the carotenoid pigments can finally be seen. This is essentially what happens in ripening tomatoes and peppers, or in senescent leaves.

What happens to the chlorophyll in the sun?

That's a good question. During leaf senescence chlorophyll is converted to fluorescent chlorophyll catabolites (FCCs) and then nonfluorescent chlorophyll catabolites (NCCs). If the chlorophyll is extracted before this has occurred then things will follow a slightly different path due to the exclusion of enzymatic reactions. However, most of the subsequent degradation is down to oxidation and isomerization and these processes can also occur after the chlorophyll has been extracted from the cells. Both oxidation and isomerization can be caused by the presence of light (photo-oxidation and photo-isomerization). Interestingly, some of the degradation products can be yellow and pink-red in colour and they may contribute to the reddening of the oleoresin when it's left in sunlight. Their more favourable wavelength absorbances will also allow the carotenoid pigments to show through. If you'd like to know more you can read the paper below.

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/chem.201003313/full