What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Bayer grub control for aphids? 1.47% Imid

spaceboy

Active member
Hi Everyone, just spotted the dreaded Root Aphid last night and after freaking out for a few hours I went out an purchased some Bayer Grub control which says its 1.47% Imid.

It comes with an attachment for a hose, but I'm guessing I just pour desired amount into water and drench the roots like that rather than attaching the hose and spraying the plant?? Also I just put some very nice and very needed plants in flower about a 5 days ago. They are 70 day strains, would it be totally safe to root drench these as well? I didnt think the residual imid would last more than 60 days, but wanted to be certain.


Also... I've only spotted about 6 or 7 flyers, but none of them are flying, just crawling on pots after I checked the roots of said pots. Is this a good sign and what would be the best way to treat any flyers besides cleaning entire grow from top to bottom, which I'm also going to do? Medium is coco.


One last thing.... Would hot water root drench hurt my flowering plants? Thanks everyone! :tiphat:
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
i used neem oil to get rid of my RA and use neem cake to stop them from coming back.

yes the bayer will work, i have used it in the past. you may want to check how it will last in the plants though, from memory it has a rather long half life...

i have never used the hot water drench

good luck
 

spaceboy

Active member
anyone think it matters if I use the bayer fruit tree variety vs the bayer grub killer? Both have same amount of active ingredient and no other active ingredients, so I imagine they are the same??

Also I only found them on a few veg plants. I just put 4 very important and very large trees into flower. Should I treat them as well even though I havent spotted any aphids on them yet?
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
First. Ozzie, if you are going to recommend Neem drenches, you need to specify that people use the one you use that has an emulsifier. This is an important detail. If you don't, there will be people that will do harm to their plants using other forms of Neem.

Spaceboy,
Are you sure they're RA's and not Fungus Gnats? And your question about it being totally safe on 70 days plants, no it won't be. Bayer Tree and Shrub guarantees effectiveness for 12 months. That 60 day business, which is likely to be wishful thinking anyway, is the Half Life. That means that 1/2 of it remains after 60 days, half of that in 60 more, and so on. Imid is systemic. It is taken into the plant's system and is there for you to smoke. The EU just outlawed use of the whole class of systemic insecticides known as Neonics, Neonicotinoids which includes imid.

If you don't want to exchange the grub control for the fruit tree variety, as long as they are the same %, you should be able to use it at the same rate. Regardless of what you use, you should treat everything. And put up Yellow Sticky Traps.

Before you treat, be sure that what you are seeing is RA's, not Fungus Gnats. Have you done a root inspection? Do it in good light and be quick, cuz they disappear into the medium quickly.

If it is fg's, you have a minor problem, easily controlled with things like Gnatrol [use pwd. form, not liquid], or mosquito dunks, or the Neem that Ozzie uses. Even if imid were safe, which it is not, it would be vast overkill for fg's. Good luck. -granger
 
Last edited:

spaceboy

Active member
Thanks for the great info Granger. Unfortunately I'm sure they are RA's. Could only find them on a few plants, but put them under a scope to make sure and found all different life stages.

All plants that I could find them on in veg were treated with a hot water dunk at 120 for 5 minutes and entire room along with all equipment has been bleached.

Any infected plants I found are all on there own tray and table and keeping a close eye on them, but have not seen any since the dunk. I have a few in flower that just put in so I'm really torn on how to treat these. I'm not seeing any RA's on them, but found some on 2 other plants that were sitting on the floor which were both also hot water dunked. We'll see how those do since they were already in flower.

I've seen a few people recommending to use some caps bennies or something similar for the plants in flower, anyone had success with this?
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Half-life gents! Please examine the half-life of your poisons; some active ingredient's half-life are measured in the "hundreds of days" (think plant residual)...while others just a few days.

In the absence of light, the longest half-life of imidacloprid was 229 days in field studies and 997 days in laboratory studies (Miles, Inc., 1992; Mobay Chemical Corp., 1992). This persistence in soil in the absence of light makes imidacloprid suitable for seed treatment and incorporated soil application because it allows continual availability for uptake by roots (Mullins, 1993). Thus, imidacloprid can persist in soil depending on soil type, pH, use of organic fertilizers, and presence or absence of ground cover.

Source: http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/emon/pubs/fatememo/Imidclprdfate2.pdf

There are other options available--with a lessor half-life.

Cheers!
 
Top