Broad Mites?

[Messodas]

The most typical damage.
On the lower parts of plants...


I see 3 different types of damage on my plants. This one on this pictures, then curly leaves like on the first picture in my previous post and the third one is on the second picture(leave with spots on the side) previous post.
What do you people think?

And sorry for my poor English!

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Ill tell you all this much. I sprayed with OGBIOWAR tea I made 24 hours ago and I can already see a difference under the scope. Eggs are less numerous and the adults whoa are there are stopped dead in their tracks. I will apply every few days for the next little while, but this is the best success I have seen including avid....

Shit is like gold!

 

[RetroGrow]

Ill tell you all this much. I sprayed with OGBIOWAR tea I made 24 hours ago and I can already see a difference under the scope. Eggs are less numerous and the adults whoa are there are stopped dead in their tracks. I will apply every few days for the next little while, but this is the best success I have seen including avid....

That's good news. Keep us posted.

 

[Messodas]

Really?

No one?

Broad mites damage???

7 pictures tells you nothing?

Now I'm really concerned.

 

[RetroGrow]

Really?

No one?

Broad mites damage???

7 pictures tells you nothing?

Now I'm really concerned.

Your pictures do look like Broad/cyclamen mite damage. Look in my gallery, and you will see pictures from years ago with plants that have similar symptoms. At that time, no one knew what Broad mites were so no one guessed right in the infirmary. But the only way you can be sure is to scope them. Without a microscope, you are flying blind. Check the undersides of your leaves with a scope, and you will see eggs if you have them. By the way if you introduce "clean" cuts to your already infected garden, they are going to be infected too. Clones are the main way these are spread, so that's why I prefer to stick with seeds. Clones may be easier, but not if they have broad mites. Then your work is going to get much harder, because once they are in your room, it will be very difficult to get totally rid of them. From the pictures, it looks like you have them for sure, but you must confirm with a scope. All these places selling clones are spreading this stuff. You can get them on your shoes/clothes just walking into them, and then transfer them to your garden. That's why I prefer to stay out of those places.

 

[bubbler720]

Broad Mite eggs?

Broad Mite eggs?

broad mite eggs?

 

[bubbler720]

burnt leaves

burnt leaves

sampling pics of seedlings - 10 days post germination. water has been ph'd to 5.5. RO water 0ppm.

burning/yellowing i'm seeing doesn't look good. any ideas? (could it be the borg broad mites haven't left me -- see pics of possible eggs above)

 

[RetroGrow]

sampling pics of seedlings - 10 days post germination. water has been ph'd to 5.5. RO water 0ppm.

burning/yellowing i'm seeing doesn't look good. any ideas? (could it be the borg broad mites haven't left me -- see pics of possible eggs above)

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229423&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229422&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229421&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Hard to say from the pix. Not Broad but could be cyclamen, or could just be trichomes. What magnification? And why are you PHing @5.5?
That's too low, and is probably stunting them + lockout.
In my experience with seedlings, mite damage doesn't show up until two week mark. Then it happens overnight, but aspirin will knock it back and straighten them right out. You have other issues going on there, IMO.

 

[Phillthy]

 

[Messodas]

Is it possible to give them too much of aspirin?
I read somewhere in this treath that it could affect ph??
I've been giving them 2 (two) 500mg aspirins in 10 liters of water whenever I water or feed them.

 

[OrganicOzarks]

The aspirin is not necessary. I have still yet to see anyone post up any science behind the aspirin in relationship to broad mite damage.

If you get rid of the broad mites you will be fine. That being said I did have some plants that were started from seed die. Cannabis, Eggplant, Jalapeno, Serrano, and a few other things. All of my mothers, clones, and bigger veg plants made it through just fine. All of my older veggie plants were fine too. They are actually flowering as we speak.

I have a room that is vegging right now that I am going to flip in about 8 days. You would never have known they had broad mites. Early clones, and seedlings are going to take the hit. The rest should pull through no problem.

My garden is back to where it was before the broad mites, and it has only been 6 weeks since my first application.

I honestly don't know why some people are having problems for up to a year. They must not be getting rid of the mites completely.

 

[Messodas]

I'm sorry, but what have you used to completely solve the broad mites problem?
Write it big, let everyone know. Thank you.
-
Now I'm trying with heat treatment.
First I turned off all the fans and exhaust everything except lights, then I watered the plants good with water +1 500mg Aspirin/10L.
I gave in two related rooms two electric heaters, one 600W and one 2500W. In one hour went up to 40C - 104F.
I took out of the room 5 plants, in need for space, the most damaged ones, and I watered them with Careo Pest-free, concentrate, for vegetables (protects from the inside) with active substance 5g/l Acetamiprid. Effective mechanism (IRAC-Group): 4A
I did like it said in the instructions, 10ml / 1 liter of water.
When the temperature reached 120F in the grow room, I'll put them back in and leave all of them for an hour.

 

[OrganicOzarks]

OGBIOWAR Foliar

Easy, Peazey.

 

[bubbler720]

Hard to say from the pix. Not Broad but could be cyclamen, or could just be trichomes. What magnification? And why are you PHing @5.5?
That's too low, and is probably stunting them + lockout.
In my experience with seedlings, mite damage doesn't show up until two week mark. Then it happens overnight, but aspirin will knock it back and straighten them right out. You have other issues going on there, IMO.

ph at 5.5 for hydroponics - based on grodan's (rock wool) recommendations; and magnification optical 54x and digital 4x (close up pic i attached was approx 50x at 2x digital - more digital zoom took it out of focus). with my handheld 100x i don't see bumps or spots on the (hopefully) trichomes.

More on ph 5.5
1. Grodan: Prepare the Grodan AO cube for seeds or cuttings
No need to condition the Grodan AO cubes. Simply soak the AO cube in 1/3 strength nutrient solution (adjusted to pH 5.5) and they are ready to use.
2. I've had good success with dutch master nutrients who also recommend 5.5, "Plant nutrients are available across a range of pH with the optimal pH being 5.5 for Hydroponics"

 

[EclipseFour20]

The aspirin is not necessary. I have still yet to see anyone post up any science behind the aspirin in relationship to broad mite damage....

OO--google: "acetylsalicylic acid" SAR

Lots of information how the plant produces salicylic acid to induce Systemic Acquired Resistance. The addition of aspirin to the equation "tricks" the plant to think it is under attack--and goes into protection mode.

Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) used in minute amounts can be effective, but excess doses can do more harm than good.

A few tidbits: http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/99/3/799.full.pdf
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1365-313X.1992.tb00133.x/pdf
http://worldtracker.org/media/library/Science/Science%20Magazine/science%20magazine%201993-1994/root/data/Science%201993-1994/pdf/1993_v261_n5122/p5122_0754.pdf

Biochar also induces SAR...but like aspirin, does nothing to eliminate/kill Broad Mites.

Cheers!

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Compost tea is going to achieve the same thing. As well as a number of other things. If people were already doing these things they would not have "duds" for over a year.

People need to move away from the chemicals.

It amazes me that people are surprised that their plants grow like shit for well over a year while they are feeding it chemicals, and dousing it in chemicals.

It would be like being surprised that most of America is over weight because they have a shit diet.

I can't say that I have read anything that would dictate I feed my plants aspirin. Thanks for the links though.

 

[Messodas]

Thanks Man.
I read that you wrote about it in past pages...
A big problem now!
Where to find this shit in Austria or in Europe????
Usually things like that do not want to post from America to Europe.

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Thanks Man.
I read that you wrote about it in past pages...
A big problem now!
Where to find this shit in Austria or in Europe????
Usually things like that do not want to post from America to Europe.

There is a guy in Ireland selling on Ebay. It is not the exact same mix, but I believe it will work.

 

[the gnome]

since nov 2010 i have been dealing with these spawn of satan,
it was 18 months before i even found out what i was dealing with.
I was ready to toss in the towel trying to gro anymore.
i have now been free from them since april of this year in both my sites.
once they get in your enviroment they are extremely difficult to eradicate.
they can live off minute pieces of dead plant material and possibly other things?
they don't need live plants (tho they prefer it) for 6 months ime, probably more as long as they have something to eat. and it doesn't take much.
after learning what i was dealing with i thought white fly's from the 1st site were the vector.
but i didn' have any probs at that site?
the 2ndary site is where they originated, not the original 1st site so they were already in the enviroment at the 2nd site,
an unused bedroom since being built 8 years prior not on ground level.
the only thing i can think of where they were coming from in this bedroom was a 4ft artificial plant that had spanish moss around the base...


they invaded the 1st site after plants that seemed healthy were transplanted from the 2nd site when it was shut down.


i used pylon bombs+permethrin bi-weekly
and sprayed forbid, avid and volck oil(ovacide) on the carpet/floors and walls 4ft up,
hit it really good in crevasses in the baseboards etc etc.
they are finally out of my life after 3 years.... *hopefully*

 

[EclipseFour20]

Yep, OO, feeding aspirin to your plants (foliar spray or root feeding) is one strategy some might find effective. I agree, compost teas (bacteria/fungi) are great, but IMHO, strategic use of nutrients/elements to combat the viral diseases caused by Broad Mites can not be ignored. Now, I am not suggesting minerals/elements will eradicate Broad Mites (that's silly), rather if improving the plant's health is the goal, then certain elements used at higher than normal doses can improve an infected plant.

"Disease resistance in plants is primarily a function of genetics. However, the ability of a plant to express its genetic
potential for disease resistance can be affected by mineral nutrition. Plant species or varieties that have a high genetic
resistant to a disease are likely to be less affected by changes in nutrition than plants only tolerant of diseases. Those
that are genetically highly susceptible will likely remain susceptible with nutritional regimes that greatly improve the
disease resistance in less susceptible or tolerant plants. As Dr. D. M. Huber states “It is clear that the severity of
most diseases can be reduced and the chemical, biological, or genetic control of many plant pathogens
enhanced by proper nutrition”. Fertilizer recommendations are developed to optimize nutrient uptake and provide
the crop with adequate nutrients for normal growth and yield. In most situations, this level of nutrients will also be
sufficient to enable the crop to maximize disease resistance. However, there are cases where nutrient applications
higher than needed for optimum growth can result in improved disease resistance."

"The primary vectors carrying virus to a crop are sucking insects, such as aphids, and fungi. Plant nutrition can affect
both fungi and some insects, thus affecting the viruses that they may carry. It has been found that the nutrient status of
a plant can affect the aphid population on plants. For example, it was found in 1965 that certain aphids tend to settle
on yellow reflecting surfaces, such as chlorotic leaves caused by nutrient deficiency. Feeding intensity and
reproduction by sucking insects tend to be higher on plants with higher amino acid content. This condition is typical
of plants suffering certain nutrient stresses. As you will read in the section on silicon, application of this non-nutrient
element has been shown to physically inhibit the feeding ability of some sucking insects like aphids. In studies with
watercress, it was reported that high levels of Zn fertilization improved control of the “crook rot” fungus which is also
a vector for the chlorotic leaf spot virus. Therefore, the high Zn fertilization controlled both a fungus and a virus."

Source: The below document by Spectrum Analytic.

Cheers!