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First time hydro woes

Adwarrior

Member
This is my 4th grow and my first hydroponically. I'm growing 2 strains for a cancer patient; A tall strain, most likely sativa, which is taken for pain. I've had this and it's very strong and buzzy. The second is a short strain, higher producer which is used to make oil for ingesting.

Up until now I had used soil, but got sick and tired of dealing with the dirt, so wanted to go hydro. Plus I'm quite techi, so making stuff appealed to me. I'd looked around and made a couple of ez-cloners which worked well. So I made larger versions to veg in, which also worked well, but ended up using the higher pressure misters for the flower hydro units. I have 2 rooms on a flip flop with 2 trays in each room. Each room at this moment has a tray that's at week 3 and a tray at week 7. The reason it's setup like this is before I had the second pair of trays in I still wanted to spread the electrical draw over 24 hours, so had one tray in each room to start. It would have been easier the other way, but I didn't want energy spikes etc. It also means I'm now stuck with 2 different strains on the same res which has proven not to be ideal. I originally had the sprayers on all the time, but as the weather got warmer the res's were getting too hot, so I put the misters on a timer. I added the timers around week 4 of the first pair of trays. The smallest increment timer I had was 15 minutes, so it was 15 on and 15 off. There's always a half inch of water in the trays, so I thought it would be OK. Needless to say root growth was dramatic. I guess as they started to dry out they would grow roots looking for water. I ordered a shorter increment timer, as I figured extreme root growth may be detrimental. So, now have the misters on for 6 and off for 9 minutes.

The problem is this: I am now just about to hit week 7 on one pair of trays and what started out looking good has ended up looking like the yield will be very low. I have 2 X 1000 HPS in each room. This was my first mistake. I should have gone for 3 600's, but that's by the by. In dirt I'd managed about 3/4 pound per light. I may be wrong, but I don't think it's going to be anything near that this time out. I hit a problem at week 3: I am using the Lucas ratio, but one night in early week 3 somehow the ppm's jumped from around 800 to 1160 the next morning. I don't know if the meter was playing up or they just drank a whole load of water and no nutes. Anyway I saw burn right away in the small plants and within days in the larger plants. I ran fresh water for about 5 days then quarter strength for a week, then half strength for a week and this week up around 750 ppm. I should now start flushing ready to chop. The smaller plants have shown yellow lower foliage since pretty soon after the burn. The taller plants seemed not to be effected so badly, but just this week I noticed they were quite leathery and purple edges to the leaves. Plus the smaller plants started to show dark spots on some older leaves, which I think may be P deficiency. See pics. And generally the buds started out looking huge, but just haven't filled in. The second pair of trays which are at week 3 are looking good and healthy, though the smaller strain is looking a little light green in places. These plants are on their own res and I have slowly brought the ppm's up (currently in the 580).

I have about 30 plants to go in behind the week 7 ones and am wondering if I should abandon hydro and go back to dirt.

Anyway, here are photos and I'd appreciate any advice about the health of the plants, what the deficiencies appear to be etc.


Here's the shorter strain at week 7 with a couple of the bigger strain making up the numbers due to a cloning mishap. 13 plants in here.
7weekshortstrain_zps10f6392f.jpg


This is the taller strain at 7 weeks. Looking at the thickness of some of the stems makes me think they should be much fatter. The tallest of these is 42 inches and the shortest 29.
7weektall2_zps96517302.jpg



These are the week 3 tall strain
3weektall_zps37a5c98a.jpg



These are the week 3 short strain
3weekshortstrain_zps16172e09.jpg


This is a damaged leaf from the 7 week short strain.
Shortstrain_zps859c6d70.jpg




Any help or advice appreciated.
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
lots of angles could be tweeked

lots of angles could be tweeked

Ive grown every type hydro over 30 yrs .
You dont say what nute formulas for veg n flower
What ph shift in rez and in root zone tray
some blue light would keep them shorter especially in veg id be looking @ solar max 7.2 k color
Id like to see inside hydro unit look at your root mat
shiny water root versus whit fluffy roots
rez temps are improtant for controling hardness of growth

I use hydroton flood/drain bucket system i made get over 1 kg per 1000w very potent
12 buckets like this average 85 grams each dry weight.A
 

Adwarrior

Member
Thanks for the reply!

Formulas are 5/10 per gallon for veg and 8/16 per gallon for flower.

I've not really had to adjust the PH very often. Comes out the tap at about 6.7 and the buffering of the nutes normally puts it around 5.7 - 6.0. I've been keeping it at no lower than 5.8 and no higher than 6.2. The water is generally at least 24 if not 48 hours old and has been aerated. However, with the run off from rains in these parts the water quality has been all over the place of late.

Temps: lately it's been warm, so has gotten up to 86 lights on. Lights off not lower than 74 at the moment, though when it was cooler around 70 lights off and 81/82 lights on.

Res temps have climbed above 76 the last couple of days. But generally around 73 - 74.


Here's the 3 weeks tall strains roots from about a week ago, so 2 weeks old
roots2weeks_zpsa43fcbb5.jpg



Cheers

And here are the 7 week tall strain just taken
Roots7weeks_zpsd04b6086.jpg
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
ok

ok

Veg light power is one of your factors,i was vegging under 1000 w osram powerstar 7.2 k blue mh

Also plant spacing is crucial,they know it too close they stretch and will affect yeilds.

Also i was using AC run off water and 10% mineral water as a buffer .
Ive made nutes for 25 yrs plus,fine tuning my formulae with leaf sap analysis and tank samples weekly it varys from strain to strain too.

Also wall reflection white not good enough.

your ideal nute temp would be 21 c /70f


these are from seed look at reflective film on walls
ive taken a few plants out in that picture
Bay size is 6ft x 4 ft plant pattern is 3 x 4 .
Also i run MH first 14 days 12/12
The plant in previous post was from cutting 21 days veg from rooted

I ran nft before and got heavy yeilds but not being able to move plants around was annoying .

Also light factors cool tubes not efficient
need best possible reflectors for even spread.A
 

Adwarrior

Member
I see, some great points there. Trouble with vegging under MH is the power consumption, I'm trying to keep it low as we had smart meters fitted last year. My HO bulbs are drawing 420 watts and cover an area 4 x 3. The tall strain doesn't do much of anything until it gets under the HPS, then it' stretches like mad (20 mm a day). What do you think about changing out the bulbs for dual spectrum bulbs instead, as I'm due a bulb change? The room on one side has cool tubes with reflectors and the other side has just the cool tubes. Maybe I should add a reflector to those!

What did you think of the look of the root mat?

Thanks for the advice. Any ideas on the state of the leaves?
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
600w veg ?

600w veg ?

600 w would do 3 x 4 nicely solarmax 7.2 runs on hps ballast
Not sure on the leaves but RO water plus 10% tap water would be better
The root have plenty feeders /branched /fresh air in there?
70f nute temps tighter internode spacing ec 2.0 = 1400 ppm

flowering lights ,philips agrolite XT HPS 1000W
has 30% more blue

yes a good reflctor vented hood "super sun 2" miles better than cool tube.A
 
G

GMax

what you are experiencing is the downfall of a recirculating reservoir....simply put, about halfway through flowering the "chemistry" of the plant changes... whereas before the plants were sucking up nutes like crazy... now it begins dumping back some nutes and it becomes very difficult to impossible to keep nutes at the right ratio....

have a look and you will see that 90% of hydro growers begin having similar problems around the same time as you...

only thing you can do is run DTW even if only for the second half of flowering... which isn't always applicable...or you can run your nutes at about half strength to help combat it...

since this is your first hydro grow I will save you the years you will spend to learn this: less is more in hydro

the plants are not going to get re-healthy...if you already flushed them and they aren't worsening then just finish out flower half strength til flush and then decide what grow style is right for you

good luck bro
 

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