Connecting high heat cutoff for T-104?

[uncletom69]

How would I go about attaching a high heat cutoff to my T-104?

My t-104 is on 240v and is powering 6x1000w ballasts.

Would it be connected to my 8 gauge wire going to the t-104?

The reason for this is because whenever we lose power, sometimes the air conditioner doesnt come back on but the lights do.

 

[sanjuan]

You might get more response in the Lighting forum or this one:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=32

I'd want to know the specific model of cutoff unit before offering advice.

 

[rives]

The T-104 is mechanically activated, so you would need to install a power relay or contactor of an appropriate amperage into the circuit. This relay could then be controlled by an over-temperature thermostat and/or interlocked with the air conditioner control circuitry.

 

[uncletom69]

The T-104 is mechanically activated, so you would need to install a power relay or contactor of an appropriate amperage into the circuit. This relay could then be controlled by an over-temperature thermostat and/or interlocked with the air conditioner control circuitry.

I found a 240v/40amp relay:
Relay Link

Does this relay look safe since its open and not enclosed?

Also I will use a Ranco ETC-141000 for temperature control.

Anyone know how to wire everything together?

 

[Chimera]

Those relays really should be placed in a gutter box or some sort of enclosure. Also, by the looks of the alternate poles, that is a flip relay for switching power between two devices. I'm thinking you probably want a contact relay.

Hope that helps,
-Chimera

 

[rives]

That relay is a DPDT (double pole, double throw). It can be used for alternating between devices as Chimera said, but it will also work fine for your application. DPST (double pole, single throw) would also work but would probably only save you a couple of dollars, and may be harder to find. As mentioned, it should be mounted in an enclosure.

The bigger issue with that relay is that it has a 240v coil. It will be easier for you to use a relay with a 120v coil - I haven't used that thermostat, but the description that I found said that it is for switching 120v.

I don't know if this vendor sells into Canada or if that would be worthwhile, but here is an example -

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...n-Style,_40A_(AD-PR40_Series)/AD-PR40-2C-120A

 

[uncletom69]

The bigger issue with that relay is that it has a 240v coil. It will be easier for you to use a relay with a 120v coil - I haven't used that thermostat, but the description that I found said that it is for switching 120v.

The Ranco etc-141000 can be used with 120/240v.
What is the issue with 240v coils?
Can I use a 120vcoil with my current setup thats on 240?

 

[rives]

The Ranco etc-141000 can be used with 120/240v.
What is the issue with 240v coils?
Can I use a 120vcoil with my current setup thats on 240?

It's easier and safer to use 120v for control work than 240v - 120v only needs single-pole switching (the neutral remains unswitched), whereas 240v is supposed to have both hot legs switched simultaneously. This requires a double-pole switch. I just did a quick search, but didn't see what switching was built into the Ranco, but did find conflicting information about the loads that it could switch.

If everything in your current setup is 240v and the Ranco has a double-pole switch, you can use 240v. If there is a neutral available for 120v, then yes, it will easily work with what you have and is generally much more adaptable to control interlocking.

 

[med-man]

better then nature in winnipeg sells 12 light timer boards with heat kills in them.

only over the counter pieces like em

med-man

 

[hvac guy]

Those timerboards from btn are crap. Just get a contactor or two, an AUBE/Honeywell digital timer, Ranco etc111000, Siemens EQL4100 loadcenter, breakers, a nema box, gang-boxes, terminal lugs, etc and build your own. Send me a PM UncleTom and I'll help you build it.

 

[med-man]

Those timerboards from btn are crap. Just get a contactor or two, an AUBE/Honeywell digital timer, Ranco etc111000, Siemens EQL4100 loadcenter, breakers, a nema box, gang-boxes, terminal lugs, etc and build your own. Send me a PM UncleTom and I'll help you build it.

oh ya? you live in winnipeg?

seen or used them?

they are what i use haha. just grew award winning kind with them

med-man

 

[hvac guy]

I've repaired them, likemost powerbox timerboards from hydro stores, they are crap. Some dude behind the counter thinking he's an electrician throwing them together.

 

[med-man]

i gaurantee you have never seen them then. he just got them last month. they have heat kills on them. the ones you are talking about are totally something else. those are 8 lighters, not 12 packs

med-man

 

[hvac guy]

Guaranteed I've never seen those timerboards, lol. I've seen all the crap that's out there.

 

[Chimera]

If I get one of these timer boards, can I grow award winning kind too?

F'it, I'll just wire up my own...

Like rives said, a 120 throw allows you to use more accurate timer/trigger options; I don't like the T104's they are not so accurate.

I have to agree with HVAC guy, 99.99% of all the store wired timer boards and flips are absolute junk, and not one of them will make a difference in the quality of your nugage..... someone's just swinging their nuts around.

-Chimera

 

[uncletom69]

Those timerboards from btn are crap. Just get a contactor or two, an AUBE/Honeywell digital timer, Ranco etc111000, Siemens EQL4100 loadcenter, breakers, a nema box, gang-boxes, terminal lugs, etc and build your own. Send me a PM UncleTom and I'll help you build it.

Hey thanks that would be great! I've emailed 2 known powerbox makers from this site but none have responded back. Unfortunately, I am not able to send any private messages.

I found most of the pieces you mentioned, do you have a model # for an Aube digital timer? or a model # for the right contactor?

 

[rives]

If I get one of these timer boards, can I grow award winning kind too?

I have to agree with HVAC guy, 99.99% of all the store wired timer boards and flips are absolute junk, and not one of them will make a difference in the quality of your nugage..... someone's just swinging their nuts around.

-Chimera

Damn, you're breaking my heart here, Chimera. I was hoping that having an A-B PLC controlling things would instantly make my shit cup quality!

 

[Chimera]

I don't know if 'cup quality' is a good thing, I heard one of the first place entries at the TY cup was clearly sprayed with one of those after harvest candy sprays.. .. apparently they lube up the twister trimming machine with the flavour spray, and send the nugs down the pipe for 'trimming'.... pay to play for marketing purposes, same ol' same ol'....

 

[ortsa1]

If I get one of these timer boards, can I grow award winning kind too?

F'it, I'll just wire up my own...

Like rives said, a 120 throw allows you to use more accurate timer/trigger options; I don't like the T104's they are not so accurate.

I have to agree with HVAC guy, 99.99% of all the store wired timer boards and flips are absolute junk, and not one of them will make a difference in the quality of your nugage..... someone's just swinging their nuts around.

-Chimera

I would have to agree as well, You dont want to buy a timer board especially from that store who are notorious for selling bad products

digital ballasts that bring industry canada to your house
off gassing tents, hose and panda film
frozen and expired nutes

at least heart attack/cheese burger kev isnt workin at that place wiring up timer boards and ballast boxes anymore

 

[med-man]

I don't know if 'cup quality' is a good thing, I heard one of the first place entries at the TY cup was clearly sprayed with one of those after harvest candy sprays.. .. apparently they lube up the twister trimming machine with the flavour spray, and send the nugs down the pipe for 'trimming'.... pay to play for marketing purposes, same ol' same ol'....

ah, first place sativa. i guess thats the secret to beating my second entry

med-man