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original UK cheese hydro grow 2m2

Haggis123

Member
Thanks Monkey, that's cleared it up for me.

I was'nt trying to be smart or anything, I was just intrigued. That's why I asked the question's.
I ain't ever grown in clay balls just r/w cubes in a hydro trough set-up so it was a new way for me as all other grows I seen using clay has the r/w cube in the clay.

Does the top of your block not go all green?
 
G

Guest

Haggis123 said:
Thanks Monkey, that's cleared it up for me.

I was'nt trying to be smart or anything, I was just intrigued. That's why I asked the question's.
I ain't ever grown in clay balls just r/w cubes in a hydro trough set-up so it was a new way for me as all other grows I seen using clay has the r/w cube in the clay.

Does the top of your block not go all green?

dont worry bro i know u wasnt being a smart ass..Its a valid point.I cut some mylra to put over the cubes this way the algi dosnt form but even if it did its not a probem as long as the cubes arnt thick with the stuff..just keep the cube covered your be fine.Like a good mate told me once.
"There are many ways to skin a cat" and berring the cube in 1 inch rock wool or 3 inch rockwool or placing 3 inch on top its all the same really the only difrence is my way u can do 15mins on 1 hour off form start to finsh but if u berriy the 3inch cube u have to be carfull for 1st 2 weeks because watering 15mins every 1 hour when the cubes berried and there small they seem to droop so its hassel sorting out what times are best///my way its simple..15mins every 1 hour from start to finsh and they never droop.There coming along nicley..il update it in a few days..thansk for stoppping by,
 
G

Guest

Day 35
Just a few more days and im going to flip them..Iv cut all the bottom growth off and changed the bulbs from metal halide to hps.Sorry for the poor pics i took the pics withg the hps on..I do have normall lighting in there and next time il make sure i take some pics with the hps off..Im still on
grow 3
micro 2
bloom 1
These plants have only had gmb and barricade for 35 days.
700ppm
5.5-6.0ph
res 63-68f
humiderty 40-60%
room temp 70-78f

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G

Guest

Day 1 of flower.Iv changed the timer from 18/6-12/12..For the 1st week il be feeding grow micro bloom 321 this will keep them nice and green then from week 2 il be feeding grow micro bloom 111 and bigbud up to week 5 then overdrive week 6+7..The only addertives thats ben addad to the gmb is berricade...Il be matching day and night time temps for 2-3weeks to reduce stretch.Also all the bottom branching has been cut off.
See u at week 2!

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Hello growers mine names scruffy im monkeys cat..
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TGT

Tom 'Green' Thumb
Veteran
So keeping night time temperatures the same as day time temperatures will reduce the stretch when triggered?

I have never heard this and find it very interesting. If so I can manage my stretch a little better. Thanks!

TGT
 
G

Guest

The easiest and most under-used way to control internodal stretch is temperature control. Plant internodal length is directly related to the difference between day and night temperatures – the warmer your day cycle is as compared to your night cycle, the greater your internode length will be. The opposite also holds true; the closer your day and night temperatures, the shorter your internodes will be. Ever notice how as the warmer summer months approach, your plants begin to stretch? Part of this problem may lie in an overall hotter grow-room, but a larger factor is the increased difference between day and night temperatures.

Lets look at putting this to play in your grow room. Maximum temperatures should ideally never rise above 26°C, so you must do everything you can to prevent your room getting too hot (run lights at night, use exhaust fans, air conditioners, etc). An ideal temperature range is 24-25°C when the lights are on, and 22°C when the lights are off.

The temperature technique is most effective under a 12/12 light regime, which is ideal as this is when cannabis stretches the most. When the light cycle is brought to 12/12 we will raise the night temperature to the daytime level of 24-25°C. Space heaters on timers work well for this, and max/min type thermometers are ideal for
tracking temperatures.

It is during the first 2-3 weeks of the flower cycle that most strains begin to lengthen internodes, making it a very important time to control temperature, as this is when the framework for future colas is built. After this 2-3 week window we need to drop the night temperature back down to 22°C, as this is where the plant is happiest.


long internodes
As floral development begins we need to keep in mind that the total size of your buds is determined largely by average daily temperature, provided it does not exceed optimal. So if you are letting your day temperatures drop below 24°C or your night drop below 22°C, you are costing yourself in overall weight and harvest.

Once your buds have reached optimal size and and you have begun the flushing period, you may consider dropping temperature down to 17-19°C for the final week or two. This drop in temperature triggers anthocyanin production, which intensifies the colour of the floral clusters and makes for a showier bud, especially with "purple" varieties. This final temperature change is not always feasible and can be omitted.

For extreme height control you may even use warmer night temperature than day, but be very careful when running settings like this, as even a zero difference between night and day temperatures will lead to leaf chlorosis (yellowing) after 2-3 weeks.

Some things you will notice while using this technique are a change in the leaf angle, upwards during warm days and downwards during warm nights. There is also the chlorosis if this is done for too long. Neither of these symptoms is nutrient related and will fix themselves when the temperature is changed back.

http://cannabisculture.com/articles/1536.html
 
G

Guest

Day 8 of flowering.Some stats for u..There 44 days old from rooted clone.They where in veg for 36 days before i flipped.Its day 8 of flowering today.Im may get a littel stretch i forgot to put the heater on and temps dropped to 57f last night :eek: Really cold in uk at the moment i got the heater set up now.Hopefully it didnt affected them to badly.I flushed and redone the res up with
Grow 1
Micro 1
Bloom 1
50ppm bigbud
ph 5.5

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*NOTE*-The res is the most stable in clay iv ever had..I only ph once every 2 days instead of once a day.Just using gmb for veg and gmb and big bud and overdrive in flwoering is alot more stabel.I have just used gmb and my plants are just as healthy as when i used the fulll +2 programs..I know i cant say yet as theres no flowers but so far the only difference i see is the res is more stable with less additives.!

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*NOTE*-This is going to be my last hydro grow and the last time using this room.Theres a few reasons that i dont want to go in to il just have my "from russain with love part 2" grow room,So il be going from 4x600watts -2x600watts this is why finding the ak and russain big ass yiedling peheno is important for me.This room is going to be a studio.Technic 1210s 1000watt system running threw shit hot computer with c-base and reason 3.0 and keybaord.I love growing but my 1st and real love is mixing and making music(techno,drum+bass and my favorite hardcore and happy hardcore(old school).So im hoping to finish this grow off with a good one..So far so good. ;) ...LOL..No im not on amphetermine and making me piffle(talk me much) im on true gents moto..This is the best stuff u have grown yet buddie..Really nice taste...5/5 imo! ;)
 

hogwild

Member
Cheese has been one of the strains ive wanted to grow for a long time, im looking forward to seeing the results. Availability in my area is a slight issue.... thats the only thing holding me back... Im jealous of your stinky cheese plants!
 

damakkus

West Coast ICer
I am pulling up a seat :lurk:

Looking good monkey. Hope you warm up over there. Been kinda cold here too on the california west coast.
 

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