Help with window a/c in jalousie/crank casement style window install ideas

[Jnugg]

So summers here in Fla,temps getting in the mid-upper 80's and soon into the low-mid 90's...humidity,well that's all year lol!

I've got a roughly 12x12 (12x15 if I include the 2x8 closet) spare bedroom that houses a 3x3x6 tent I grew in over the winter but now I need a/c seeing as the 80 y/o landlord (who lives in Cali) refuses to have the central a/c repaired.

My problem....

I rent so I can't do a through the wall (pluss they're more expensive than a window banger of similar BTU's,and less efficient as well.

There are two windows in this room,but they're not the double hung windows that window a/c's are made for.They are like jalousie windows but instead of many small glass panes there are two glass panes.

My only thought on how to accomplish this install would be to remove the glass panes (and the metal frames they are in) leaving an open window opening and then use 2x4's to add as framing support (horizontally in the window opening to hold/support the a/c) and then sealing around with plywood and caulk...thus kind of like a through the wall install but not blocking the top and side vents of the back half of the window unit so that it runs properly.

Here's a pic of said window,with a lil 2x4 support going on to show you what I'm thinking of....yes I know the top 2x4 isn't level,it's just jammed into the window opening to show you what I'm thinking...

My plan is to get a 8000 to 10000 BTU window banger and use the 2x4's as a support frame,then covering with 1/2" to 3/4" sheet of plywood and then cutting a rectangular hole in the plywood just ever so slightly bigger around than the window banger so I can slide it in through the wall style but without blocking top or side vents of the backside of the window banger.

Only other option is get a dual hose portable that's twice as big as the window banger (in btu's) as I've read in the sticky if using a portable you'll want to take your total BTU load needed and double it.I do not want to do this...I will not do this as portables are waaaaaay more expensive and no where near as efficient as a window banger.


So what do ya'll think of my proposed install?

Of course all leaks will be filled with weather stripping and caulk but this is the only way I can think of doing this...

Comments/advice always welcome from those in the know.

 

[summitoker]

I would remove the glass/frames and cut a piece of plywood to fill the space not taken by the ac. Fill the gaps with weatherstripping, tape, whatever. I always see houses around here with windows setup like that, not unusual at all.

 

[Lee Van Kief]

........

 

[Jnugg]

I would remove the glass/frames and cut a piece of plywood to fill the space not taken by the ac. Fill the gaps with weatherstripping, tape, whatever. I always see houses around here with windows setup like that, not unusual at all.

That's a good idea but both panes must be removed,therefore a sheet of plywood MUST cover the entire window opening in order to keep heat/rain out,and the cool air in.

 

[Jnugg]

yeah i'd do it the way you're talking about too, easiest and best option considering that you don't want anyone looking through that window.

Yep that's about the only way it will get done proper IMHO (keeping hit air and bugs out while keeping cool air in).

Not worried 'bout anyone seeing in these windows...Carport down below,living quarters upstairs (can't be too careful a block from da beach in Fla with hurricanes,stor surges,floods lol).

 

[gregor_mendel]

Get an estimate for repairing the central AC before doing this. Suppose you could get it repaired for the same price as the window unit, or even a couple hundred more. You still have to live in the house, right?

 

[Ez Rider]

Make the hole for the a/c a little big, then line both sides of the opening with some good weatherstripping. This will prevent any unwanted vibrations from the window frame.

Also, make SURE the back of the unit is running slightly downhill... this facilitates drainage of the condensation, and prevents water from flowing into your house. Think about what is directly under this unit outside. Considering your location, this unit will be dumping a lot of water out the back.

Get Home Depot to make you a can of paint that matches the outside, and paint your outer plywood to match the house. It won't draw the eye as much, and stands up much better to the weather. I'd get good plywood, not MDF.

Where I live, you could get the central a/c fixed and deduct it from your rent...I strongly dislike scumbag landlords. Do you know what's wrong with the central. Sometimes they're fairly cheap to get running... maybe less than a window unit and plywood?

 

[Jnugg]

Get an estimate for repairing the central AC before doing this. Suppose you could get it repaired for the same price as the window unit, or even a couple hundred more. You still have to live in the house, right?

Get an estimate for repairing the central AC before doing this. Suppose you could get it repaired for the same price as the window unit, or even a couple hundred more. You still have to live in the house, right?

Tried to...unfortunately all six HVAC services I've contacted said since it's a rental unit they'll have to have the landlords permission first..she ain't granting it.

Besides...Why pay to keep an entire apt/duplex unit @ 65°F when I only need one room that cool...it would be a waste of energy....now using central air to bring full house temps down from 80/90°F to a comfy 75°F and then being able to get away with a smaller window or portable unit to further drive the one room sub 70°F would be great...but that central air ain't gettin' touched...not as long as slumlord has anything to say bout it.


Stupid floridian law #1

By law you must have heat...there is no law that says you must have a/c...

Well in the panhandle,sure I can see needing heat...during certain times in winter...but here in CFla & in SoFla it should be the other fucking way around.The 727 Does+.t get very cold in winter...hell left my windows open 90% of this last winter,except for four rare nights it got below 50°F...and even then no heat was needed when the windows were closed.


Too cold in Fla,bundle up.Too hot,well you can get naked and sit in front of a fan....still gonna sweat your balls right off!

 

[Jnugg]

EZrider- I took over my moms lease when her and my younger brother were moving and I was looking for a place on the beach.She rented the unit for 11 years and had 5 cats.I remember three years ago she told me the central a/c stopped working.She called the landlord out in Cali and told her.HVAC team was here a week later.They had to remove both the air handler (in the attic) and the compressor (outside down stairs).The unit was an old singer about 47 years old.When they brought the air handler downstairs I was disgusted and in shock...the guy said it was once metal but now resembles wet cardboard.He gave it a slight nudge with his foot and it folded over,just like wet cardboard!

They replaced it with s brand spankin new central a/c (air handler and compressor).Well my mom and lil bro are the exact opposite of me...they are laaaazy as fuck and didn't clean/replace the return air filter for who knows how long...all I know is one day I get a call at work from my mom saying the a/c just stopped and was blowing out white smoke and that they turned it off at the thermostat,the breaker panel inside,and the breaker panel outside that the compressor is connected to.I asked if it smelled electrical and she said yes.I told her I'd come by in the morning.

I get there in the morning and there's hot air blowing out the vents,yet she turned it off at the thermostat,breaker inside and outside!

I'm no HVAC guy so I couldn't figure it out before going to work.So I come back later that night and there's still hot ass air blowing out the vents....at 105°F!!!

Still couldn't figure it out so came back the next morning...still blowing 105°F air out the vents...scratch my head,check inside and outside breakers make sure it's off...still bloeing.Finally I go into the attic anf see the air handler on it's oen breaker.I shut it off and no more air blowing through the vents.Tried turning everything back on,only hot ass air (heater obviously works lol),so it's stayed off since I moved in last September...compressor doesn't turn on or make any noise.When I removed her air filter before she moved out it was disgusting.Took it outside and held it directly up in the Fla sun....could+.t see a speck of light shine through...made me want to raaaaalph all over the place.

Obviously,she burned something out in a unit less than 3.5 years old facepalm!

 

[Ez Rider]

EZrider- I took over my moms lease when her and my younger brother were moving and I was looking for a place on the beach.She rented the unit for 11 years and had 5 cats.I remember three years ago she told me the central a/c stopped working.She called the landlord out in Cali and told her.HVAC team was here a week later.They had to remove both the air handler (in the attic) and the compressor (outside down stairs).The unit was an old singer about 47 years old.When they brought the air handler downstairs I was disgusted and in shock...the guy said it was once metal but now resembles wet cardboard.He gave it a slight nudge with his foot and it folded over,just like wet cardboard!

They replaced it with s brand spankin new central a/c (air handler and compressor).Well my mom and lil bro are the exact opposite of me...they are laaaazy as fuck and didn't clean/replace the return air filter for who knows how long...all I know is one day I get a call at work from my mom saying the a/c just stopped and was blowing out white smoke and that they turned it off at the thermostat,the breaker panel inside,and the breaker panel outside that the compressor is connected to.I asked if it smelled electrical and she said yes.I told her I'd come by in the morning.

I get there in the morning and there's hot air blowing out the vents,yet she turned it off at the thermostat,breaker inside and outside!

I'm no HVAC guy so I couldn't figure it out before going to work.So I come back later that night and there's still hot ass air blowing out the vents....at 105°F!!!

Still couldn't figure it out so came back the next morning...still blowing 105°F air out the vents...scratch my head,check inside and outside breakers make sure it's off...still bloeing.Finally I go into the attic anf see the air handler on it's oen breaker.I shut it off and no more air blowing through the vents.Tried turning everything back on,only hot ass air (heater obviously works lol),so it's stayed off since I moved in last September...compressor doesn't turn on or make any noise.When I removed her air filter before she moved out it was disgusting.Took it outside and held it directly up in the Fla sun....could+.t see a speck of light shine through...made me want to raaaaalph all over the place.

Obviously,she burned something out in a unit less than 3.5 years old facepalm!

Sounds like a bad reversing valve/reversing relay to me...I'm assuming this is a heat pump? Sometimes the reversing valve/relay gets stuck/goes bad...they usually default to heat.

Not sure of your skill level, but you should be able to google your make and models troubleshooting guide. If the RV is stuck, you may be able to get it working again just by smacking it one. If the relay is bad, a new one is usually fairly cheap. If the valve is dead...you're screwed. Now you said this was fairly new equipment...the air handler and condenser both should have a self-diagnostic/trouble code light somewhere, that will tell you what the problem is. All you'll need is a decent volt/amp meter. If you need some help let me know, as I do have some a/c training. My first guess is it's something minor.

 

[vein5]

Im sure your landlord would let a hvac tech fix it, if you fork out the money. Get your central air working bro, your probably going to be charged to fix it when you move out anyways.

 

[Jnugg]

Sounds like a bad reversing valve/reversing relay to me...I'm assuming this is a heat pump? Sometimes the reversing valve/relay gets stuck/goes bad...they usually default to heat.

Not sure of your skill level, but you should be able to google your make and models troubleshooting guide. If the RV is stuck, you may be able to get it working again just by smacking it one. If the relay is bad, a new one is usually fairly cheap. If the valve is dead...you're screwed. Now you said this was fairly new equipment...the air handler and condenser both should have a self-diagnostic/trouble code light somewhere, that will tell you what the problem is. All you'll need is a decent volt/amp meter. If you need some help let me know, as I do have some a/c training. My first guess is it's something minor.

Thanks bro...I'll go back up in there tomorrow or possibly later today and look for a diagnostic/trouble code light...I'll also be looking up the make/model to try and find a trouble shooting guide.

Would the diagnostic/trouble code light be on the outside of the handler & compressor or is there a maintenance hatch that needs to be opened?

 

[Jnugg]

Im sure your landlord would let a hvac tech fix it, if you fork out the money. Get your central air working bro, your probably going to be charged to fix it when you move out anyways.

She can't charge me for something that broke a month or two before I signed the lease and moved in,it not working has nothing to do with me.If she wanted it,she would have charged my mom when she moved out seeing as she was renting when it broke and her laziness is what led to it breaking.

 

[Ez Rider]

The light on the condenser(if it has one) will be under an access panel. Usually wherever the stat wire is entering is the panel you want.

On the air handler(if it has a light) it may or may not have a viewing port on one of the access panels. Unfortunately, the code information, which is usually given as a set of short and long blips, is you guessed it... on the inside of the panel.

It could be as simple as a bad/loose stat or stat wire. The fact that it will still put out heat tells you that everything is mostly ok.

 

[Ez Rider]

Your stat(especially if it's old) and it's connections are the most logical place to start. You'll come across your lights(if they're there) in the process. BE CAREFUL... electricity can be very unforgiving.

 

[Jnugg]

Just called up my local HVAC guys (the ones that installed the central heat/air) and they want $125 just to come and look at the unit....fuck that shit man,you want $125 to spend 10 to 15 minutes...you guys are nuts.

EZrider- I just looked at the outside unit and there is no service panel/hatch that I can see...gonna go up in the attic in a bit to check the air handler and see if I can find a service panel/hatch and hopefully a trouble/diagnostic light.

 

[Jnugg]

Took some pics while up there...have no clue where the access panel to the airhandler is...

Could this be it?

Is this the relay?It's sitting on the water/drain tray

Where all the copper lining from outside connects to airhandler in attic...

Info on outside unit

It's a Comfortmaker brand if that helps.

 

[Ez Rider]

The switch in the pan is an overflow/kill switch intended to keep the unit from flooding your house. I assure you, there is an access panel somewhere on the condenser. Go to the comfort maker website and download the manuals for your specific equipment. The manuals will show you exactly where the inspection panels are. Usually the same place where the thermostat wire enters the unit. Here's your condenser manual:

http://icpindexing.toddsit.com/documents/086477/42101510300.pdf

Good news... it does have a diagnostic light. You just need to find and remove the panel it's behind...quite likely it's the one with the specs on it.
Couldn't see the #'s for the indoor. Is the indoor a furnace or an air handler only?

 

[Jnugg]

So that's the manual for the outdoor bit I take it?

The airhandler is a heater/furnace as well (system will do both heating & cooling).

I'll get the numbers off that unit in a minute.