Help desperately needed, is this a def ?

[Sgt.scrogger]

Hey people I'm currently growing 5 big buddha cheese from cuttings this is the 3rd time I've had this problem now over 3 grow and it's just been a complete battle for me.


These cuttings were put in John Innes no.2 after being rooted then they got transplanted from a 1L pot of no.2 to a 5L pot BioBizz allmix then a 15L pot of biobizz then i put under a 600watt hps.

They had no food for the first 4 weeks of veg then I gave them 25% of HESIs label recommendation of root and bloom complex.

I'm in flower now almost week 4 thought my problems were John Innes soil but it can't be. Someone please help as I'm on the verge of giving up.

I don't check or measure ph because I'm in soil.
My temps and RH : day 78-83 night 68-71, RH IS 30-50%

I have a 6" air out and 4" in which brings air from outside.

 

[Sat X RB]

am I reading right that the problem began in JI#2?

if so, how much soil was around the roots at FIRST transplant?

I 'm wondering if yr roots haven't been able to grow out of the soil that caused the problem in the first place. ?

Or remnants of the original soil are still having a toxic effect on yr plants.

anyway ... I 'd water the fuck out of them to wash away toxins.

adding ferts to bought soils for the first time is often problematic because the soils themselves have (usually) had ferts added ... and sometimes the resulting combination of ferts is harmful to the plant. so FLUSH! LOTS!

cheers ...

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Thankyou for you reply I really appreciate it.

The plants seemed to be ok in no.2 it seems to be when they've been in the room for about 5 weeks this started about 1 week ago after they've been in BioBizz for like 4 weeks they seemed to have good roots when I took them out of John Innes here is another bad pic

 

[Granger2]

Have you done a root inspection? Look for root aphids. You have to be quick, and a large low power magnifying glass helps. Good luck. -granger

 

[Sat X RB]

Mate, I don't know anything about root aphids ... never seen 'em even. but as you've had similar problems with more than one grow ... about the same time in each grow ... could be! I seem to remember reading aphids are sometimes found in some purchased soils (which HAS to make you wonder where the soil actually comes from).

check the appropriate threads/stickies and if you can't find any beasties get back to me and we'll try to boil this down further ...

 

[Bobbo4200]

Check your pH guy! Should be between 6.3-6.5 in soil

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Hey granger2, hey sat x rb,

I have not done a root inspection as my plants have been under the screen for over a month now I feel as it would be virtually impossible to inspect the root I would really like to do tho as today is the fist time I've even thought about root aphids. Would it be a coincidence as I have gone from John Innes to BioBizz and disinfected my room between grows. I have been reading the thread on root aphids and I have 95% of the symptoms I really new to Check the roots but I can't :-(

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Hey Bobbo, I'm under the impression I don't need to ph as I'm growing in soil I have gone down the ph road but I stopped ages ago as I thought I was Doing more harm than good. I was using hydroponic ph down and was told this will destroy the micro life/micro heard in my soil and then I would be growing hydroponically as Using the ph down would result in having hydrophobic soil. It states in my HESI grow guide I don't need to adjust ph when cultivating plants in soil. It also says on the bottle it contains a ph corrector. I've been told by all hydro shops I don't need to ph in soil as the soil buffers and that it will hold on to nutrients until the plants wants/needs them.

I still have arguments against this though because,

Yes HESI has ph correctors that do work but, what about when I only give them plain water. My ph of plain tap water is 7.5. When I use bloom it takes my ph down to 6.9 on 1/4 strength feeds. I've read it's worse to have the wrong ph that correct in one big leap e.g 7.5-6.9 then I would be going back to 7.5 on next watering when I don't use feeds.

I really am at a loose end lol this should be fun but all I've had is grief I've gone from ph to deficiencys to toxicity to humidity to changing soils and am on the verge of giving up completely thanks for your input Bobbo but I can't do the ph route all over again lol I appreciate your help greatly all of you and hope I can get to the bottom of this as its taken over my life trying to pinpoint this I really need to check those roots but I don't think it's possible.

 

[mowood3479]

A pic of a whole plant would help immensely in narrowing down ur issue..

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Hey mowood thanks for reply I will get a pic of whole plant up tomorrow with lights off your reply is greatly appreciated

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Can I also add I first noticed the problem on one plant one week ago it's now on all 5 of my plants :-(

 

[trichster]

How much water are you getting for runoff? If your not giving enough water salts build up and looks just like your pics.

You should get a ppm pen, there cheap. Check your inital runoff and if its over 900ppm there not ready for fertilizer yet. When you put them in 15L pots is when id start checking ppm.

Once you know what the ppm of BioBizz allmix and John Innes no.2 out of the bag are you will be able to figure out what is going on.

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Trichster hey bud an thanks for your input I don't get runoff everytime and when I do it's not very much. I have a question for you mate.

If I do have a toxic Salt build up in my soil and then I water until I get runoff if the plant just sits in the tray and soaks that water up will that cause this ?

 

[ozzieAI]

If I do have a toxic Salt build up in my soil and then I water until I get runoff if the plant just sits in the tray and soaks that water up will that cause this ?

yes it can as you are not washing the salts away as in drain to waste.

i use neem regularly to condition my soil as well as deal with soil borne pests such as RA which like you i dealt with for several grows before pinning down RA as the issue.

good luck

 

[Sat X RB]

pH would have to be out by a LONG way to cause yr symptoms. the pH of yr tap water/feed won't alter soil pH except over the long term.

thinking further ... the length of time from ok plants to sick plants is consistent with a growing population of aphids. like, one or two aphids takes some weeks to populate up to a serious situation ... and you say you have most of the symptoms described!

pls put up pic ...

 

[trichster]

You want around 10% runoff every time! You need to let most of runoff come out of pots into waste before sitting in your trays. 15L pots id give 4.75L water.

 

[medicalmj]

Lock out. P and probably others. I'd flush (pH at 6.2; 1/4 strength nutes) and then foliar.

Also, save some $ and just get a one part like GH flora nova. It will pH adjust your nutes consistently.

 

[trichster]

If it is lockout and your at 4th week of bloom the damage is done. you can flush all you want but you wont end up with the yield you should have. Ive seen 3oz plants produce 10grams when locked out. If you knew what your soils ppm is out of bag you would know alot more. Like FFOF soil is around 2800ppm out of bag, so when you put into 15L pot first week runoff be around 2000ppm then slowly every watering goes down until around 3rd week or so flowering is under 900ppm and is ready for ferts. When you see the ppm drop like this you know there is no lockout happening. As you fert and check your ppm runoff you dont want it to increase everytime you want it to stay stabilized at what ever ppm you feel you should be running your plants, If ppm increases every watering you are starting to build up salts and vice versa if it keeps dropping you know to add ferts.

 

[medicalmj]

If it is lockout and your at 4th week of bloom the damage is done. you can flush all you want but you wont end up with the yield you should have. Ive seen 3oz plants produce 10grams when locked out. If you knew what your soils ppm is out of bag you would know alot more. Like FFOF soil is around 2800ppm out of bag, so when you put into 15L pot first week runoff be around 2000ppm then slowly ever watering goes down until around 3rd week or so flowering is under 900ppm and is ready for ferts. When you see the ppm drop like this you know there is no lockout happening. As you fert and check your ppm runoff you dont want it to increase everytime you want it to stay stabilized at what ever ppm you feel you should be running your plants, If ppm increases every watering you are starting to build up salts and vice versa if it keeps dropping you know to add ferts.

Yeah, by the 4th week of bloom the plant is about ready to enter final stage and senescence. Not whole bunch you can do but I personally would still try.

 

[Sgt.scrogger]

Hey people just managed to snap those pics a the light went out. I have more pics an will look at the replies on this thread that I'm yet to reply to. Many thanks everyone your posts and help are very appreciated.