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Bat Guano vs. Bone and Blood

Holycrap!

New member
Just a pic post for fun and appreciation to those with the great words of advise....This was a strain called cashmere. She grew really nice, vigorous, healthy and put on weight. Sadly her taste and high were sub par. I thought of breeding her into some other stuff I had just for the vigor, but never have.

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Holycrap!

New member
I dunno, I think I've weeded through a lot of strains, so my expectations are really high. I mean this girl grew great, nice branching, put on weight.

But despite the pics, the tric production was not incredible. the high was mediocre and the taste was bland.
 

Mud Man

Sumthink Stinks
Veteran
I dunno, I think I've weeded through a lot of strains, so my expectations are really high. I mean this girl grew great, nice branching, put on weight.

But despite the pics, the tric production was not incredible. the high was mediocre and the taste was bland.

the search continues ... keep the faith :)
 

Dorje113

Member
Soil test kits, available at pretty much any garden shop, will give you a ballpark idea of where your NPK and pH are at. It's a good place to start, prolly better than guessing.

As far as pH, if you have a soil mix based on peat and dolomite, it should keep your pH right as long as you are watering with an acidic mix. This is one advantage of Earth Juice nutes, they drop your pH pretty low and it really works well with a peat/lime soil mix... to the point you'll never have to worry about pH again.
 
I

Iron_Lion

yes, when you hear about 'acid loving' plants in general horticulture, they are just plants that like more iron. as you can see from the chart the best range is between 6 and 7. if you are using dolomite lime in the soil, and your water source is much above 7, then your soil pH is unlikely to go below 7 which may cause some problems.

VG

Very true, been a while since I checked the pH of my tap water. I started having problems pop up left and right, go to the tap, check the pH and I was at almost 8. My soil is well amended with dolomite and oyster shells, looks like I will have to go back to pHing my water and nutes. This is the one instance I have been forced to pH adjust in organic soil. Also for any peeps that have well water check it frequently, mine has jumped from 6.5 in the winter to almost 8 in the summer.
 

UPNSMOKE23

New member
organic fert

organic fert

Even though this is a good thread i just like to add my two cents.
Even though you have all this organic nutes u still need to break it down of your organism and roots to eat. The best way to do this is to brew it! The key to brewing great tea is the organic matter, oxygen, micro herd, molasses and the key is the water temp! The microbes loves water when it becomes 105-125°© so add a aquruim heater. Brew it for 24hr and compare it to the one that water didnt get heated. Fungi and bacteria are most active when it gets hotter they're :tiphat:10x more productive and multiply faster then compared at water that is 75°©. :tiphat:
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Even though this is a good thread i just like to add my two cents.
Even though you have all this organic nutes u still need to break it down of your organism and roots to eat. The best way to do this is to brew it! The key to brewing great tea is the organic matter, oxygen, micro herd, molasses and the key is the water temp! The microbes loves water when it becomes 105-125°© so add a aquruim heater. Brew it for 24hr and compare it to the one that water didnt get heated. Fungi and bacteria are most active when it gets hotter they're :tiphat:10x more productive and multiply faster then compared at water that is 75°©. :tiphat:

Do you have any data or science to support your claims? I've been under the impression that bubbling nutrient rich teas was to disperse the nutrients in the water, and maybe put compounds into solution, not to grow micro life. And I've read too much nutrients in teas could reduce microbe numbers, so naturally I'm suspicious of your claims.....scrappy
 
O

OrganicOzarks

Even though this is a good thread i just like to add my two cents.
Even though you have all this organic nutes u still need to break it down of your organism and roots to eat. The best way to do this is to brew it! The key to brewing great tea is the organic matter, oxygen, micro herd, molasses and the key is the water temp! The microbes loves water when it becomes 105-125°© so add a aquruim heater. Brew it for 24hr and compare it to the one that water didnt get heated. Fungi and bacteria are most active when it gets hotter they're :tiphat:10x more productive and multiply faster then compared at water that is 75°©. :tiphat:

Oh shit someone said 10x more productive. Now all of the kids will be going around saying it as if it were fact.

I would love to see some EVIDENCE of your 10x claim.

Maybe you can school microbeman?:)
 
Even though this is a good thread i just like to add my two cents.
Even though you have all this organic nutes u still need to break it down of your organism and roots to eat. The best way to do this is to brew it! The key to brewing great tea is the organic matter, oxygen, micro herd, molasses and the key is the water temp! The microbes loves water when it becomes 105-125°© so add a aquruim heater. Brew it for 24hr and compare it to the one that water didnt get heated. Fungi and bacteria are most active when it gets hotter they're :tiphat:10x more productive and multiply faster then compared at water that is 75°©. :tiphat:

Dude, check your numbers. 125 degree celsius is frigging 257 degrees bro. you are going to pour that in your roots? Maybe heating it to 105 degrees farenheit might increase bioproductivity but I very much doubt its frigging celsius. you would boil everything to death. including your roots.
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
going back to the original questions in the thread, i found this study the other day and it shows that with blood meal, N guanos and other fast release organic amendments, the vast majority of the mineralization/N release has occurred within 2 weeks. The ferts also have slower release nitrogen, but 80% of the total mineralization after 8 weeks had already occurred in the first 2 weeks.

http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/16/1/39.full.pdf

VG
 

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