couchlockd
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senex and tahoe reloaded
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couchlockd
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so as im sure i will get some "comments" on why there is 5 ballasts in a 2X5 ft closet.
thats because i like to cure latex wall paint at 700 degrees Fahrenheit!! LOL
no what you guys are seeing is a progression of udgrades. started with a 250 and a 400 250 for rooted clones and early veg. and 400 for the rest. then i added a 600 to bypass the 400.
then i added newer ones to the outside, as i noticed even though the ballast themselves are cool to the touch, they have fans in them and i there is no way around them generating heat. just the fans made the ballast body cool and dump the heat were ever. so i noticed a good 10degree drop in temps with externally mounted ballasts.
i just kept them were they were for options. winter time needs the heat of the ballasts in the closet and could permit the running more proper but less effectively air cooled hood, such as the super sun 2 (sunlight supply) or the DayStar AC (hydrofarm). but the summer time calls for the cool tube, and external mounted ballast.
in a perfect world, i prefer the daystar ac in there. its perfect for the closet floor footprint. the hood matches it like a glove.
also i use the "heat shields" with the "normal" reflectors. they are the things made of cloth and mylar that go over the hoods to keep radiant heat in the air flow circuit of the hood. like it insulates it, and keeps it in the path of exhausting heat of the hood.
they work great, they permit me to use the "good hoods" during the spring and sometimes early summer. they provide a 2-5 degree drop in ambient temps when used.
also i use these things. they are called spreaders.
i find these super neccessary when in a close space with the lighting hood placed close to the canopy. which is good to go. as the hood gets cool basement air rammed over it by a 6" vortex fan and spent into the attic. so i never have the situation were it is it gets too hot from the hood being a foot or so from the tops. i can touch the glass if i wanted to. the other factor i have to deal with is the radiant or UV light heat. the spreader deals with that pretty well. its a hot spot eliminator.
also co2 gets set at a minimum of 600ppm early rooted clone to 1000-1200 ppm veg to 1400 ppm through the first 3 weeks of flower then gradually dropped to around 800ppm around week 6 and leveling off at around 600 ppm the last weeks.
i set the "deadband" or "hysteresis" at 50ppm. this setting is the resolution i guess. it keeps the co2 enrichment levels at + or - 50ppm of the set point. so if i set the set point at 600 ppm and the deadband at 50ppm it will never let the co2 go below 550 or above 650 ppm.
when using co2, the fluctuation of the target ppm value is the death of co2 enrichment. like it is hard for the plants to get used to a constant crazy flux in ambient co2 levels. its is a hard game to play without a co2 sequencer or online controller. the timed intervals of yesteryear were IMHO at best performing at 30-40% of what a real enriched co2 environment performs at.
i do have a sentinel chhc4 which i have not yet felt like hooking up, i will do it after this run. as it will be in the dead summer and more automated controll of temps will be helpfull.
this unit has humidity controll, temp controll, light timer. etc. co2 sequencer. and the best thing is this. it has a seperate day and ngiht set point for each parameter. for humidity it will have a seperate set point for the day time RH and night time RH. like you can set the day at 60% rh and night for 45% . same with the temps. seperate day and night set points. and also it has a user settable dead band. like you can keep it tight with a AC unit to never go out side of + or - 2 degrees of you temp setpoint or you can set it at 10 degree variable, what ever you want.
this is helpfull for a few reasons. for instance the THC1 total humidity controller from green air products i have. it is a RH controller. but it has a factory set dead band of 5 or 7%. or the other one they have is a temp controller and has a factory set dead band of 7 degrees. so you set the thing at say 78 degrees to keep the room under 78. and you are using vent fans only to controll temp, no ac. the thing will turn the fans on at 78 or so degrees and try to get the room down to 71 (factory set dead band) and in my case the fan will never turn off, as it will never get the room 7 degrees cooler with a vent fan. you know when dealing with higher temps. sometimes its not goint to happen getting the room cool. then you just need to worry about humidity and stale air, etc. just having a fan run for a few minutes to exhaust the nasty atmosphere is what is needed. even though it wont drop temps significantly or anything its good to have the exchange
which is impossible in certain circumstances with a factory set dead band soo steep as 7 degrees or 7 % rh. having user variable setpoints eliminates this. like with the sentinel you can set the temp for 78 and dead band of 2 degrees so it will run the fan till it gets to 75, which is totally in the scope of vent fans only.
the sentinel chhc-4 i picked up when they finally came back out with the unit, renamming it from the chhc-1 to the chhc-4, it had a list price of 789, i got it for 550.
the green air products cdmc-6 i have in use now. i paid 700 for, and it requires at least a few repete cycle timers or additional green air products controllers to do just half of what the chhc-4 does. like thiss.. the cdmc-6 $700 (list of $1200 or more) requires a CT-DH-3 or CT-DH-2 temp/rh controller. which is a additinal $180-300 depending on how well you are "in" with the hydro store guys. in my set up my cdmc-6 is ran in conjunction with 2 seperate repeat cycle timers. one to let the fans come on at a set interval and one to disable the cdmc 6 while the fans run. so i have a "push/pull" set up with the cycle stats and the cdmc-6. also i have a seperate igs TEMP/Dne 1 temp controller hooked to a heater int he winter. and a seperate cycle stat (3 total) for the night time exhaste fan.
so the cdmc-6 $1200
ct-dh-3 or THC1 controller - $100-200 (thc-1) $180-300 (ct-dh-3)
sentinel cycle timers - $140 each (3 used here)
temp dne 1 controller $90
so like $2k in this set up, and the controll is pretty much manually set by you and automatically carried out by them gear.
the sentinel chhc-4 from $550- $750 does all this perfectly in harmony, and takes up less real estate and is fool proof, you dont need to sit down and "figure" out shit. it does it for you.
the cdmc-6 set up was bout in pieces. so when all said and done it is expensive. but when bout as needed it seems cheaper than all of a sudden just saying "fuck the grand i have in the other controllers, gimme that one for a additional 600 bucks"
but i have both and will put the sentinel in later.
just some fyi on contollers an such.
thats because i like to cure latex wall paint at 700 degrees Fahrenheit!! LOL
no what you guys are seeing is a progression of udgrades. started with a 250 and a 400 250 for rooted clones and early veg. and 400 for the rest. then i added a 600 to bypass the 400.
then i added newer ones to the outside, as i noticed even though the ballast themselves are cool to the touch, they have fans in them and i there is no way around them generating heat. just the fans made the ballast body cool and dump the heat were ever. so i noticed a good 10degree drop in temps with externally mounted ballasts.
i just kept them were they were for options. winter time needs the heat of the ballasts in the closet and could permit the running more proper but less effectively air cooled hood, such as the super sun 2 (sunlight supply) or the DayStar AC (hydrofarm). but the summer time calls for the cool tube, and external mounted ballast.
in a perfect world, i prefer the daystar ac in there. its perfect for the closet floor footprint. the hood matches it like a glove.
also i use the "heat shields" with the "normal" reflectors. they are the things made of cloth and mylar that go over the hoods to keep radiant heat in the air flow circuit of the hood. like it insulates it, and keeps it in the path of exhausting heat of the hood.
they work great, they permit me to use the "good hoods" during the spring and sometimes early summer. they provide a 2-5 degree drop in ambient temps when used.
also i use these things. they are called spreaders.
i find these super neccessary when in a close space with the lighting hood placed close to the canopy. which is good to go. as the hood gets cool basement air rammed over it by a 6" vortex fan and spent into the attic. so i never have the situation were it is it gets too hot from the hood being a foot or so from the tops. i can touch the glass if i wanted to. the other factor i have to deal with is the radiant or UV light heat. the spreader deals with that pretty well. its a hot spot eliminator.
also co2 gets set at a minimum of 600ppm early rooted clone to 1000-1200 ppm veg to 1400 ppm through the first 3 weeks of flower then gradually dropped to around 800ppm around week 6 and leveling off at around 600 ppm the last weeks.
i set the "deadband" or "hysteresis" at 50ppm. this setting is the resolution i guess. it keeps the co2 enrichment levels at + or - 50ppm of the set point. so if i set the set point at 600 ppm and the deadband at 50ppm it will never let the co2 go below 550 or above 650 ppm.
when using co2, the fluctuation of the target ppm value is the death of co2 enrichment. like it is hard for the plants to get used to a constant crazy flux in ambient co2 levels. its is a hard game to play without a co2 sequencer or online controller. the timed intervals of yesteryear were IMHO at best performing at 30-40% of what a real enriched co2 environment performs at.
i do have a sentinel chhc4 which i have not yet felt like hooking up, i will do it after this run. as it will be in the dead summer and more automated controll of temps will be helpfull.
this unit has humidity controll, temp controll, light timer. etc. co2 sequencer. and the best thing is this. it has a seperate day and ngiht set point for each parameter. for humidity it will have a seperate set point for the day time RH and night time RH. like you can set the day at 60% rh and night for 45% . same with the temps. seperate day and night set points. and also it has a user settable dead band. like you can keep it tight with a AC unit to never go out side of + or - 2 degrees of you temp setpoint or you can set it at 10 degree variable, what ever you want.
this is helpfull for a few reasons. for instance the THC1 total humidity controller from green air products i have. it is a RH controller. but it has a factory set dead band of 5 or 7%. or the other one they have is a temp controller and has a factory set dead band of 7 degrees. so you set the thing at say 78 degrees to keep the room under 78. and you are using vent fans only to controll temp, no ac. the thing will turn the fans on at 78 or so degrees and try to get the room down to 71 (factory set dead band) and in my case the fan will never turn off, as it will never get the room 7 degrees cooler with a vent fan. you know when dealing with higher temps. sometimes its not goint to happen getting the room cool. then you just need to worry about humidity and stale air, etc. just having a fan run for a few minutes to exhaust the nasty atmosphere is what is needed. even though it wont drop temps significantly or anything its good to have the exchange
which is impossible in certain circumstances with a factory set dead band soo steep as 7 degrees or 7 % rh. having user variable setpoints eliminates this. like with the sentinel you can set the temp for 78 and dead band of 2 degrees so it will run the fan till it gets to 75, which is totally in the scope of vent fans only.
the sentinel chhc-4 i picked up when they finally came back out with the unit, renamming it from the chhc-1 to the chhc-4, it had a list price of 789, i got it for 550.
the green air products cdmc-6 i have in use now. i paid 700 for, and it requires at least a few repete cycle timers or additional green air products controllers to do just half of what the chhc-4 does. like thiss.. the cdmc-6 $700 (list of $1200 or more) requires a CT-DH-3 or CT-DH-2 temp/rh controller. which is a additinal $180-300 depending on how well you are "in" with the hydro store guys. in my set up my cdmc-6 is ran in conjunction with 2 seperate repeat cycle timers. one to let the fans come on at a set interval and one to disable the cdmc 6 while the fans run. so i have a "push/pull" set up with the cycle stats and the cdmc-6. also i have a seperate igs TEMP/Dne 1 temp controller hooked to a heater int he winter. and a seperate cycle stat (3 total) for the night time exhaste fan.
so the cdmc-6 $1200
ct-dh-3 or THC1 controller - $100-200 (thc-1) $180-300 (ct-dh-3)
sentinel cycle timers - $140 each (3 used here)
temp dne 1 controller $90
so like $2k in this set up, and the controll is pretty much manually set by you and automatically carried out by them gear.
the sentinel chhc-4 from $550- $750 does all this perfectly in harmony, and takes up less real estate and is fool proof, you dont need to sit down and "figure" out shit. it does it for you.
the cdmc-6 set up was bout in pieces. so when all said and done it is expensive. but when bout as needed it seems cheaper than all of a sudden just saying "fuck the grand i have in the other controllers, gimme that one for a additional 600 bucks"
but i have both and will put the sentinel in later.
just some fyi on contollers an such.
couchlockd
Active member
edided
couchlockd
Active member
edided
couchlockd
Active member
sorry for the deleted photos i accidentally deleted the wrong few.
but anyway. here is an update.
i mixed up a little foliar spray for them. it was as per label directions for a product called B'cuzz "foliar nutrient" B'cuzz Growth Stimulator, and B'cuzz "foliar boost wetting agent"
they perked right up and are looking like they will go to the veg pots in less than a week.
they will go to 1 gallon pots then as i start flowering they will go in 2 gallon rose buckets.
or 3 gallon maxi pots.
ill post pics of the veggin clones tonight
heres the products used for the foliar spray. i should note the ones i have are like 7 years old and were still fine. bcuzz makes some good clean clear organics.
but anyway. here is an update.
i mixed up a little foliar spray for them. it was as per label directions for a product called B'cuzz "foliar nutrient" B'cuzz Growth Stimulator, and B'cuzz "foliar boost wetting agent"
they perked right up and are looking like they will go to the veg pots in less than a week.
they will go to 1 gallon pots then as i start flowering they will go in 2 gallon rose buckets.
or 3 gallon maxi pots.
ill post pics of the veggin clones tonight
heres the products used for the foliar spray. i should note the ones i have are like 7 years old and were still fine. bcuzz makes some good clean clear organics.
couchlockd
Active member
edidided
couchlockd
Active member
edidi
couchlockd
Active member
couchlockd
Active member
edidied
Nice closet 
I like the quality controls and the Co2. Have you dialed in the environment? Seems like u had it for a long time - 8y.o ballasts and all.
Plants look good!
Why the light spreader?
What strain(s) you running?
And have you flipped on week 3 of Flower to HPS before? I usually hear it done on the last 3 weeks. Have you used that dual arc bulb? I want to get one - but am unsure of the quality.
I like the quality controls and the Co2. Have you dialed in the environment? Seems like u had it for a long time - 8y.o ballasts and all.Plants look good!
Why the light spreader?
What strain(s) you running?
And have you flipped on week 3 of Flower to HPS before? I usually hear it done on the last 3 weeks. Have you used that dual arc bulb? I want to get one - but am unsure of the quality.
couchlockd
Active member
yes i have monkeys around with bulb changes all over the cycle.
i found the first three weeks on the MH full specttrum (5000k-6500k) keep the stretch down, then you can blast them with the HPS till finish, or give them a 10k the lat week or so. buti have not been impressed with the high kelvin bulbs to finish, i feel they rob of harvest wieght.
i like a good mh for the first three weeks and then hps or im planning on trying the dual spectrum 600 i posted above, just cant find much about it, and dont just slapp in garbage gear without merit.
but yes the 3 weeks mh and hps for the rest is like a rule of thumb for me. if not for anything other than controlling stretch as much as i can, pullin out all the stops.
i found the first three weeks on the MH full specttrum (5000k-6500k) keep the stretch down, then you can blast them with the HPS till finish, or give them a 10k the lat week or so. buti have not been impressed with the high kelvin bulbs to finish, i feel they rob of harvest wieght.
i like a good mh for the first three weeks and then hps or im planning on trying the dual spectrum 600 i posted above, just cant find much about it, and dont just slapp in garbage gear without merit.
but yes the 3 weeks mh and hps for the rest is like a rule of thumb for me. if not for anything other than controlling stretch as much as i can, pullin out all the stops.
couchlockd
Active member
the spreader.
cuzz my right arm is way mor tan than the left.
lol
just cuzz i keep the lights uber close, to spread out hotspots with the less than ideal cool tubes. when i run the super sun or the daystar they really dont need it but get it anyway. just evenws out the light better.
cuzz my right arm is way mor tan than the left.
lol
just cuzz i keep the lights uber close, to spread out hotspots with the less than ideal cool tubes. when i run the super sun or the daystar they really dont need it but get it anyway. just evenws out the light better.
couchlockd
Active member
wswsws
couchlockd
Active member
day 42
day 42
edit
day 42
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couchlockd
Active member
edit
couchlockd
Active member
well there is many variations to the spelling of this strain after searching.
the bag i got a few years ago was marked "senex" it came from colorado. it was a heavily seeded pound. this was 3 years ago. i saved many seeds.
from my research i believe it is C99 X SFV og Kush
the bag i got a few years ago was marked "senex" it came from colorado. it was a heavily seeded pound. this was 3 years ago. i saved many seeds.
from my research i believe it is C99 X SFV og Kush
