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How do you provide fresh air for plants in an air conditioned room?

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
http://www.planetnatural.com/product/exhale-co2-bags/?gclid=COWi9-TYpbcCFUQ6Qgoduy8AdQ

This has a lot lower initial outlay. By all reports I've seen, they do the job. I used to use CO2 Boost and it did a pretty good job of it.

But what makes you think you'd have to make multiple trips for CO2 with a 10#? What size room do you have? Properly dispensed, with 1 Kw, I think you could easily go 1 month.
http://www.hydrofarm.com/resources/co2calc.php
There are 8.7 cu ft in a pound of CO2. Good luck. -granger

With above calculator-8x8x8 room, 1000 ppm running for 30 min at lites on, at hour 4, hour 7, hour 10- 10 lb would last 60 days., and keep lites on levels between 400 and 1000 ppm during 12/12.
 
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Snook

Still Learning
Veteran
Well I'll add something here. You don't need to spend a fortune to have co2.

You do not need a fancy meter/monitor, I've done without for many a year just fine. All I use is a #20 tank(15 bucks a fill) and a regulator with a recycle timer($150?).

View Image

A lot of people think if you are going to get involved with co2 you need a meter to keep it at 1500 ppm which will of course go through tanks very fast.

But if you just want to insure "fresh air" then all you need is 400 ppm. Is it ideal? Maybe not but your ladies will not mind one bit.

I keep my 12x13 room at 500-1000 and have been on this tank since 4/20, so at least a month a tank.

Now I will be upgrading to a fancy meter/monitor after a crop or two but this setup has been with me for 13 years now keeping ladies happy, or at least not starving.
IF IT AINT BROKE...

And when I do upgade, this setup will go in my veg room which has no "fresh air" but has been growing plants just fine without.

but are your temps in the 80S/90s? i thought that what what allowed the higher temps was the presents of more (1000-1200ppms) CO2. sumpin about boosting the plants metabolism and i'm not implying that what youre doing isnt working, 3rdC. KISS is the best way to go.. if ya can.:tiphat: and more light.
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
but are your temps in the 80S/90s? i thought that what what allowed the higher temps was the presents of more (1000-1200ppms) CO2. sumpin about boosting the plants metabolism and i'm not implying that what youre doing isnt working, 3rdC. KISS is the best way to go.. if ya can.:tiphat: and more light.

As I said, my setup is not ideal. I will be getting a co2 LP burner and monitor to keep levels at 1200 lights on.

Just pointing out that co2 doesn't have to be all or nothing. Lots of middle ground to work.

As for the temps, idk, Adrift seems to prefer high 70's after trying both 80's and 70's and no one is questioning his grow skills or knowledge.:tiphat:
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Well I'll add something here. You don't need to spend a fortune to have co2.

You do not need a fancy meter/monitor, I've done without for many a year just fine. All I use is a #20 tank(15 bucks a fill) and a regulator with a recycle timer($150?).

A lot of people think if you are going to get involved with co2 you need a meter to keep it at 1500 ppm which will of course go through tanks very fast.

But if you just want to insure "fresh air" then all you need is 400 ppm. Is it ideal? Maybe not but your ladies will not mind one bit.

I keep my 12x13 room at 500-1000 and have been on this tank since 4/20, so at least a month a tank.

That's right, I actually didn't even think about that... I don't have to overdrive my plants... I can just provide them with the equivalent of atmospheric ppm of CO2. You are smart, my friend! :biggrin:

That's a 20 pounder,

So, I'm a big dumbass but it turns out that is actually the size of the tank I have! I thought it was a 10 lb tank, but I forgot I sold that along with a small aquarium a few years ago. So yeah, the one I have now is a 20 lb tank, and knowing how long it lasts you in your sized garden, makes me feel a whole lot better about running gas in my small room. Also, let me ask you this, I don't see any CO2 line running from the regulator and going towards a fan or anything for dispersal. Am I correct about this? So, do you just let the circulation in the room take care of this?

Also, about the permanest trays, I'm glad to have helped out there. :tiphat: I sure was glad to have found them. I now have a flood tray setup out of one of them, and the others are just being used as normal 1020 trays out on my front porch. They really are the shit!

I run a filter box that holds my carbon filter, ballasts, and the exhaust for my portable air conditioner. Using the room as a lung room, I have an intake coming in and feeding cool air. Air then runs through my tent, to the filter box, and out through the exhaust. No doubt I'm exhausting air that has been cooled by the portable, but I run it over my bulbs first, extracting heat from the tent, then through my filter box cooling the ballasts while getting scrubbed, then out through exhaust... Gotta figure it's been warmed to a point where it's worth exhausting by then...

Running a 800 watts vertical in a 4x4 plus 250+watts for veg and extras in a 10x10. Temps in the tent stay within 5-6 degrees ambient and I can run the lung room at 70-72 all day long with the portable running occasionally (90-92 outside)... 12000 btu portable. Intake comes from a cold basement though so that helps a lot. Veg area also isn't closed off so it's shooting out hot air into the lung room constantly...


So the airflow would go something like this, if it was me...
Intake (House) --> Lung room --> Tent -- > Filter Box --> Carbon Filter --> Exhaust

And the dual hose portable air conditioner goes something like this
Intake (Outside) --> Portable Air Conditioner --> Filter Box --> Carbon Filter --> Exhaust


That way all air exhausted is getting scrubbed, only requires a single exhaust, fresh air comes in cool from the house, and the air conditioned air is utilized to its fullest given the scenario...

Good luck!

Thanks man. That is very helpful info there. Let me make sure I understand what you are doing here, because it actually sounds very similar to something I was thinking of doing... essentially, your cold air coming from the A/C could be thought of (for lack of a better phrase) as a "drain to waste" A/C, lol, right? I thought of doing something like that. I feel like it would be wasteful, but at the same time, effective, and the ends would justify the means. Also, you have given me something to think about with using dual 400s in a 4x4 tent. I guess I should probably talk about the size room I'm working with and what I wish to do with it, right?

What size grow are we talking here?

Exactly. :biggrin: So, this is a roughly 5x8 room (useable floor space) that I wish to put either a 4x4 or 5x5 tent in. I honestly only have one goal, and that is to produce about 2-3 lbs a year. That's the amount that my wife and I consume per year, with a little surplus factored in. We currently do the cannabis equivalent of "living paycheck to paycheck" and it would be nice, now, to start having a little surplus and not be so worried about running out of medicine all the time.

But what makes you think you'd have to make multiple trips for CO2 with a 10#? What size room do you have? Properly dispensed, with 1 Kw, I think you could easily go 1 month.
http://www.hydrofarm.com/resources/co2calc.php
There are 8.7 cu ft in a pound of CO2. Good luck. -granger

With above calculator-8x8x8 room, 1000 ppm running for 30 min at lites on, at hour 4, hour 7, hour 10- 10 lb would last 60 days., and keep lites on levels between 400 and 1000 ppm during 12/12.

Thank you. That's a helpful calculator there! Yeah, I'm a dummy and way overestimated things. I honestly didnt realize a tank would last as long as it does, and especially since I'm only working in a 5x8 room that could go fairly far. Also, I was wrong, I have a 20 lb tank, so that should double things for my calculations!


So many great replies in here. I'm finally figuring out what to do here! So, in all honesty, I think I'm leaning toward sealing it and supplying CO2 now. I love all that helpful info Lou gave me up there, but I really don't know if that would work for me since I don't have a basement with cool air that I can always draw from. My A/C has to be the primary cooling device.

What I think I'm going to do now (and please, if anyone sees anything wrong with this plan, please, speak up!) is use a 5000 btu window banger in the window, and a 4x4 tent in the room, lit by a 1000w (or should I use a 600w?). The tent will have negative pressure and all air will be scrubbed on its way out of the tent, where it will be dumped right out into the room where the A/C is circulating. Am I correct in understanding that this room will actually now be a lung room for the tent? So I will inject CO2 into this room as well, knowing that all the air that exists in this room eventually gets cycled through the tent.

I will still have my small gardens inside the house, to keep genetics, and do my "just for fun" bonsai gardening, but this room would be my main grow. I would veg and bloom in this one tent.

How does that sound?
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
That's right, I actually didn't even think about that... I don't have to overdrive my plants... I can just provide them with the equivalent of atmospheric ppm of CO2. You are smart, my friend! :biggrin:

So, I'm a big dumbass but it turns out that is actually the size of the tank I have! I thought it was a 10 lb tank, but I forgot I sold that along with a small aquarium a few years ago. So yeah, the one I have now is a 20 lb tank, and knowing how long it lasts you in your sized garden, makes me feel a whole lot better about running gas in my small room. Also, let me ask you this, I don't see any CO2 line running from the regulator and going towards a fan or anything for dispersal. Am I correct about this? So, do you just let the circulation in the room take care of this?

Also, about the permanest trays, I'm glad to have helped out there. :tiphat: I sure was glad to have found them. I now have a flood tray setup out of one of them, and the others are just being used as normal 1020 trays out on my front porch. They really are the shit!


What I think I'm going to do now (and please, if anyone sees anything wrong with this plan, please, speak up!) is use a 5000 btu window banger in the window, and a 4x4 tent in the room, lit by a 1000w (or should I use a 600w?). The tent will have negative pressure and all air will be scrubbed on its way out of the tent, where it will be dumped right out into the room where the A/C is circulating. Am I correct in understanding that this room will actually now be a lung room for the tent? So I will inject CO2 into this room as well, knowing that all the air that exists in this room eventually gets cycled through the tent.

I will still have my small gardens inside the house, to keep genetics, and do my "just for fun" bonsai gardening, but this room would be my main grow. I would veg and bloom in this one tent.

How does that sound?

Sounds like you are well on your way toward self sufficiency.:)

As far as dispersal of my co2, yeah I just let the fans take care of that. Shit is sealed tight so the gas isn't going anywhere too quick.
I think about getting the micro drilled tubing for 20 bucks but I'm also thinking about getting a Sante Fe dehumidifier so I'm not in spending mode at the moment.

Yep, love love love the Permanest 1020's. I got them shortly after your thread about them. Actually found them for 8 a piece locally. Had to go with the seafoam green though.:biggrin:
 

LeeROI

Member
This would seem a good place for LED. Expensive investment but a pair of Lumigrow ES330 would be great in that tent. The ES series has been superceded by the "Pro" line (and I haven't seen any cannabis feedback on those yet).

Growershouse says a single Pro 325 is ideal for a DR120 (4x4) but that seems absurd to me, footprint wise.

PS: I have the original DR120 but haven't used it, partly because I'm worried about the load it can (or can't) support.
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Outside fresh air CO2 is only around 400 ppms . so if your just looking to add enough to maintain a fresh air scenario .... 3rds idea is ideal . although CO2 is slightly heavier than air ... so it should be dispersed above the plants & let fall on to them.
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Well, I've been monitoring the temperature and humidity in the room for over 48 hours now, and I can safely say that the temperature in there, with windows and door completely closed off from the outside world, never got above 89 degrees! That's not bad at all, considering the temperature outside easily registers in the upper 90s. It's all because of the concrete block, and the complete tree coverage overhead, I'm sure.

I should also state, here, for the record, that the water heater is located in this room, so I think that's promising! Now, my question is, knowing that it doesn't get all that hot in there, is it safe to go with a 5000 btu window banger? Along with a 1000w HPS?
 

Snook

Still Learning
Veteran
Well, I've been monitoring the temperature and humidity in the room for over 48 hours now, and I can safely say that the temperature in there, with windows and door completely closed off from the outside world, never got above 89 degrees! That's not bad at all, considering the temperature outside easily registers in the upper 90s. It's all because of the concrete block, and the complete tree coverage overhead, I'm sure.

I should also state, here, for the record, that the water heater is located in this room, so I think that's promising! Now, my question is, knowing that it doesn't get all that hot in there, is it safe to go with a 5000 btu window banger? Along with a 1000w HPS?

is there a light on in there now? if not, put a simple 100w bulb on in there and monitor.
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Well, I did have 72 watts of shop light fluorescents on the whole time, which I forgot to mention, but I didn't think that was the important part... I was just trying to see how insulated the room was and how hot it got during the hottest part of the day. At this point I'm ready to get the window banger installed!
 
L

LouDog420

I'd say that 5000 btu would have trouble keeping the room cooled (~75) without the 1K and just the 89 degree temps... But have also never used a 5000 window banger so hopefully someone else will chime in....

Add a 1K on top of an 89 deg room, and I can't imagine that small window unit keeping up... Hopefully I'm wrong though!
 

mowood3479

Active member
Veteran
just as food for thought... i once had a flower room that had no co2 but it was so cold out that if i used the exhaust fans it dropped the room from 70ish to 50 or below... so i shut off the exhaust fans... no co2... fairly sealed up room.. and the plants did fine..
ive also had to do this in veg rooms quite a bit (no air exchange)...
seems like scientifically it shouldnt work but for some reason it has always worked out fairly well..
if you cant afford co2 try it without for a bit.. u mayb suprised with how well it works out..

also.. u could set up an exhaust fan to dump all the air in the room 3x a day or something.. keep the ac from working to hard and provide some fresh c02 enriched air..
there are ideal ways to run a grow room and then there are things done out of neccesity..
adapt improvise and overcome..
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
I always read that you want about 5000 btu's per 1000w of light? Is that not correct? I guess I could go with a 9000 btu... But I've heard that when an A/C is bigger than is needed, it short cycles, which prevents the dehumidifying capabilities from working. Is that true?
 

Snook

Still Learning
Veteran
As I said, my setup is not ideal. I will be getting a co2 LP burner and monitor to keep levels at 1200 lights on.

Just pointing out that co2 doesn't have to be all or nothing. Lots of middle ground to work.

As for the temps, idk, Adrift seems to prefer high 70's after trying both 80's and 70's and no one is questioning his grow skills or knowledge.:tiphat:

I question no ones ability... maybe sometimes not understanding a different (than mine) process.. always room for my improvement..:)
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Yeah, I think I'd go with the 9000. Also, if your water heater is gas, you've got your CO2 source right there. Good luck. -granger
 
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