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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

DabSnob

Member
i thought i would share some photos i put up on my thread a few days ago... i recently started the battle myself.

Root aphid flier


root aphids ( not the closest photo sorry )


Fungus gnat flier
 

Multiverse72

New member
First: Thank You for your attention and time in putting all of this together.

I will write more another day as I am super tired right now.
I just have to note that beneficial nematode a have been great.
Below are some pics of these nasty things suffering and shriveling.
Unfortunately, I have an aphid problem again, hence my visit here. Again, I'll post more another day.
...and it looks like I can't post pics from my phone. I'll work this all out and post again w/pics somehow soon.
 
Happy to hear that the EU has banned the use of neonicotinoids. Hopefully one day no one here will be able to get their hands on the products created from neonicotinoids.
 

pulspc

New member
thanks for the post, my personal opinion after the battle and war with these is that they are a mutant rust mite out of the wine valley, not to blame california, but we are talking ecology and micro niche and opportunistic pests,
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
pulspc,
If your talking about Root Aphids, they have 6 legs. Insects have 6, and mites have 8. Good luck. -granger
 

OSUB

New member
i have had problems in the past with RAs, and TBH i have not had a single problem with these pests since i have incorporated karanja cake and neem cake (neem seed meal) into my soil during transplant.


if you are in the midst of an infestation, forget about it. the neem & karanja will do NOTHING.
 

Not wishing to restart any bickering.
I'm just stating what I have observed.

Bought a new bag of Black Gold pure coco.
Took a clean garbage can and lined it with a new plastic bag.
Set the coco in that, cut a slit, removed about 2 liters for up-potting.
Sealed the bag, sealed the garbage bag, and put the snugly fitting lid on the can.
Went on about me business.

Plants start losing bottom leaf at an alarming rate.
I do the "what's wrong" dance for a while while it gets critical.
Then, Crap! a flyer.

Put a slice of potato on the surface and wait a day.
Here's what I find.
View attachment 217576
View attachment 217577
View attachment 217578

See them eggs?

Had not opened the coco since the first opening.
When I pulled the lid and opened the garbage bag.
I thought I saw a flyer!
So I grabbed a cup of coco and ran it under the 'scope.

I'm here to say, that for whatever reason, RAs do seem to lay egg in coco.
Won't speculate on the actual vector, but the RA eggs in new coco is no myth.

I threw a few million nematodes at the flowering girls and used Imid on the veggers.
When the imid has broken down I'll hit them all with bacterial and fugal spores.

And I'll innoculate any future bags of coco with said spores because they kill the eggs too.

Anyroad, that's the plan.
Vill it Verk? V shell C.
The new growth looks promising.

Again, not looking for hubris, just stating observations.:huggg:

Aloha,
Weeze

How long do you wait for the Imid to break down before getting back to adding bacteria?
 

Weezard

Hawaiian Inebriatti
Veteran
Dunno.
Imid might not bother the fungal spores, but would probably wipe out the nematodes.
Check the bottle for half life but Imid is a systemic and works by making the roots and sap poisonous.
I quit using it for that reason.

Thank for bumping this.
It needs correction.
Those pictures are not root aphids!

Those are Broad mites.
Of course I also had RA's , but they were almost trivial compared to friggin' invisible mites!
The fungal treatment seems to be doing the trick.

Another two weeks will tell.

Aloha,
Weezard
 

ballplayer 2

Active member
I believe I also have broad mites. My plants were simply freaking out, and going hermie before flowering, during late veg. Not sure if I have root aphids or not, leaning towards hopefully not. I will still keep inoculating with Met 52.

Though I was sure I had some sort of mite hanging around both on foliage,and multiplying ridiculously on the medium. I had no idea broad mites would hang around on pots and in the medium.

You are sure those are broad mites weezard? Mine look identical to the pictures you posted, I can assure these could not possibly be beneficial given the damage on my plants. These things have been f'n me for quite some time. What kind of fungal treatments are you applying? I am likely to apply predators (swirskii mites).

Thank you,
BP2
 

Weezard

Hawaiian Inebriatti
Veteran
"You are sure those are broad mites weezard?"

Pretty sure.
Look at the egg in the first shot.
Those "bumps" say broad mites.
Cyclamen mites look similar but have smooth eggs .

I say, hit them with the Swirskii mites and make snuff videos.

Aloha,
Weeze
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
"You are sure those are broad mites weezard?"

Pretty sure.
Look at the egg in the first shot.
Those "bumps" say broad mites.
Cyclamen mites look similar but have smooth eggs .

I say, hit them with the Swirskii mites and make snuff videos.

Aloha,
Weeze

Yep, bumps on eggs indicate BM eggs(where is this pic, from your post?). BM eggs have around 29-37 distinct whitish bumps on them. And while cyclamen mite eggs are smooth, both are elliptical.

Broads will lay about 30-70 eggs on a leaf over 1-2 weeks and they hatch in 2-3 days. Cyclamen mites usually lay eggs in small groups (about 3 per day) and take 11 days to hatch. So, yes you would have to see something if those were eggs and they are viable since you would have to see a adult.
 
R

Ryan Seedquest

I had the RAs about this time last yr.
I got the Bayer CIK, But was uncomfortable with the idea of dunking.
I just wasn't comfortable with the idea of having to "dispose" of multiple gallons of mix after dunking.

So I just drenched each plant as they needed watered.
Which means I didn't didn't apply to to the whole garden at one drenching.
Which means the RAs just moved from plant to plant.

So after that didn't work. I just took cuts, put email in the fridge & took down the grow.

I cleaned up real good. But didn't do anything special.
The main thing I did was to remove all roots from the house...including houseplants.

After a couple of weeks, I began to wonder about my cuts. I decided to grow them out before they died. I figured if the RAw came back I'd just take more cuts...

That was a little more than a year ago.
Last month they came back.

I still wasn't comfortable with the Bayer CIK, so I researched and found the info about Riptide & Orthene.

I ordered some. But in the meantime, the RAs were chowing down.
So I decided to use the COM & then rotate to the other when it got here.

But this time, I dunked the plants. And all in the same day.

Killed all the RAs.

I figure there's no need to rotate to the other chems if there are no target pest.
So I will wait...
 
R

Ryan Seedquest

The potato test sounds like a great idea for getting an early warning.

As others have said, by the time you see damage the RAs are pretty well entrenched...
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Suggestion from someone that has been there and done that...and ain't there anymore!

What ever pesticide route you take...if you don't address CONTAMINATION then plan on being on that "hamster wheel" for a long time.

RAs are soil critters and will transfer from "here" to "there" to "over-there" within seconds. Smoke a fatty and examine your growing practices...then pretend you are a RA and imagine all the ways you can jump around.

How clean are your containers...use soap, bleach, ammonia and hot water?
Support stakes...clean em right? Oh, if they are bamboo then your fucked--cuz RAs will nest inside the bamboo.
Saucers...do you place "infected container #A" in a clean saucer and then later place "uninfected container #B" in the same saucer? Now both are infected.
Drain trays (don't use saucers)...runoff from one infected rootball will infect the other rootballs.
Top dressing/soil fluffing...do you "sterilize" the tools and your fingers--that came in contact with infected soil before working the uninfected soil?
Clothes...do you change clothes before gardening--you know, the clothes you wore while doing outside gardening or playing with your dog.
Hydro/garden supplies...if I have RAs on my clothes/arms (just came from my garden before shopping) and the RAs jump off and onto the store counter--which later find their way onto you (now you are RA carrier). Wouldn't make sense that as you unload and carry your purchases--those RAs you were carrying just found a new home in what once was your "clean garden area"...in the stuff you just bought from the store.

Jump off the "hamster wheel" and think "clean room" & "mushroom cloud" strategy. Clean up your growing practice and annihilate the motherfuckers! You can be responsible and prevail WITHOUT further pesticide treatments...if you do it right.

Cheers!
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I'm gonna try it for RA's and FG's. Potatoes are a root crop, and it wouldn't surprise me if it works for RA's too. Hope I never am able to confirm that. Good luck. -granger
 

joe mac

Member
ok hey guys. New here but been fighting the dreaded ra's for months now. At first like many I thought I had a few gnats and the phantom defficiency symptoms. Then i figured it out. Root aphids. After doing some reading on the net I found this thread.

So I ordered some met 52 and beneficial nematodes for flower. I have been hitting them with a combo of azaguard/evergreen/sns203 with mediocre results. I just started adding the sns and it seems to do well on it's own. They deffinitely don't like it and swarmed out of my buckets.

I soaked some of my vegging plants with a combo of imid/abamectin yesterday and it really seemed to knock them out. I could find not one living bug today in those that got treated. Gonna do the rest of veg. tomorrow with this.

gonna try orthene in veg. soon as a round two. To try and stave off any possible resistance. I was wondering if anyone is familiar with the dosage. The best I can determine it should be measured into a fluid oz. measuring cup at the rate of 3/4 oz per 5 gallon.

This sound right?

Stuff I've tried so far in total.

Garant25(imid)- seemed to work great the first application several months ago but now they are back in force and seemed to have developed somewhat of a resistance.

,gnatrol,- I was using this as a drench for the gnats but it seemed to keep the ra's in check. Decent for suppression I think but no good for eradication. If applied 1-2x weekly. Pretty expensive too.

evergreen- seemed to keep them in check for a while. Now I am applying at the rate of 10ml/gallon and the little buggers are crawling soon after. So obviously not working so well anymore.


azaguard- seemed to have little to know effect on them. Certainly has effected the terpines of the product tho. Not favorably either.

spinosad- only used it once after reading online somewhere it could be effective. Doesn't seem to be.

,sns203-,, seems to work really well to drive them out. Don't know how effective it is at actually killing them tho.

spectracide- little to no effect on them.

abamectin-just used this yesterday as a soak and it seemed to kill em dead.......for now anyway.

so anyways does anyone know about application rates of orthene?
 
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