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chronic yellowing of clones

B

BugJar

I have been cloning for a few years now with various degrees of success.

most recently I have been using rockwool and RO water ph 5.5 as suggested on the grodan box.

I have around 90% success but the clones always get yellow before rooting. they bounce back quick enough but the yellowing is an eyesore and the plants sure don't look happy.

dome/no dome, misting/no misting, keeping the cubes saturated/ letting them dry out slowly, I have tried them all. they always yellow around 10 days and roots typically pop at 14

temps and RH are great

Is my fault not using a small amount of bloom like some suggest?

I never suffered from yellowing in my aero cloner so I'm not sure what to think.

I would love to keep my ladies as healthy as possible in their super critical cutting phaze

any help appreciated
 

jackmayoffer

Member
Veteran
I have been cloning for a few years now with various degrees of success.

most recently I have been using rockwool and RO water ph 5.5 as suggested on the grodan box.

I have around 90% success but the clones always get yellow before rooting. they bounce back quick enough but the yellowing is an eyesore and the plants sure don't look happy.

dome/no dome, misting/no misting, keeping the cubes saturated/ letting them dry out slowly, I have tried them all. they always yellow around 10 days and roots typically pop at 14

temps and RH are great

Is my fault not using a small amount of bloom like some suggest?

I never suffered from yellowing in my aero cloner so I'm not sure what to think.

I would love to keep my ladies as healthy as possible in their super critical cutting phaze

any help appreciated
We always soak our rock wool sheets for cuttings with cal mag and base nutes at 350 to 400 ppm , Temp and Humidity domes make a huge difference..What is your temp and humidity?
 
B

BugJar

77-80f and 80% rh for the first week then I open the vent and it drops to about 50% rh
 
B

BugJar

I have heard that too much N can inhibit rooting...

The longer I grow the less I know
 
Foliar feed. Leave the dome on. 300ppm at 6.0ph. Never have yellow leaves again. I have almost 100% success. I actually put a trash bag (clear) tied up around the humidity dome for 2 weeks and never open the bag after I've sprayed them down thoroughly.
 

Oliver Pantsoff

Active member
Veteran
^^^Damn, are you serious bro....Ive never heard of that before...Is that some type of old school method or something. Very interesting....

OP
 
^^^Damn, are you serious bro....Ive never heard of that before...Is that some type of old school method or something. Very interesting....

OP
I never use any cloning gel either. People sell all these machines and potionsthat are totally unnecessary , never saw a strain that was hard to clone either. Oh and I use clones that have been taken from plants that are 2weeks into flower. Best clones for future veg branching. Clones naturally take on a bush affect with multiple colas
 
S

sallyforthDeleted member 75382

Yes. There are enough Auxins etc in the cut that will realize rooting. Too much humidity I find leache's out the stored nutrients in the leaves of the cut making them yellow. Some posters have suggested foiler feeding, which is new to me and sounds like a great idea and would stop leaching of nutrients from the leaves keeping em green.

You shouldn't need rooting gel/powder with cannabis as I never have and have 100% success.
 

MarbleOrchard

New member
I too have been having this problem, going to try the foliar feeding out. I am getting 90% success but its taking just over 2 weeks and the yellowing really does take away from where I wanna be starting.
Will report back!
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Ice-Tube cloner and 100% vermiculite... super cheap... super easy. Look up the threads on it. :) Most "first time" success stories out of newbies for any cloning method online for 10 years. Period. Works great for us old-timers as well.

No dome, even in 20%rh, no yellowing, just roots.

Smallest 27 cutting cloner out there. :) (I cut the bottom in to sections so I can use snacks sized ziplock bags for the reservoirs)

Should you wish to stick with your current setup... I highly recommend a foliar spray of bloom nutes around day 9 or 10... just before they usually start yellowing.

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 

hereigrow

Member
Until the clones have enough roots to feed the canabilize their own tissue for nutrients. Try a light foliar feed , but at the same time if you say they bounce back why do anything at all...everyone throws a couple clones away every once in a while .
 
B

BugJar

Until the clones have enough roots to feed the canabilize their own tissue for nutrients. Try a light foliar feed , but at the same time if you say they bounce back why do anything at all...everyone throws a couple clones away every once in a while .

Yes they bounce back but it takes a week after transplant. that should be a week of good growth and they are much worse off than I like my plants to be.

In some cases depending on where they yellow it can result in asymmetrical growth and dings up my favorite training techniques

I am still having good success but would sleep much easier if I could keep the ladies nice and green all the time

I think I will shoot for a foliar feed of super light kelp
 
B

BugJar

Grow nutes.. not a light feeding of kelp. 300ppm 6.0 Ph. No reason to adjust what is already a perfect recipe

The only thing I have poured out of a jug in the last 5 years is molasses and pH down... I am way out of the loop when it comes to liquid nutes.

can you recommend anything organic? it would be nice if it was a small container as I would only be using it with clones.

there also seems to be some disagreement between grow and bloom nutes

I have heard over the years that N can actually inhibit rooting in cuttings.

anyone want to weigh in on this subject?
 
Never heard too much n inhibits rooting.. for example, the clones are eating the nitrogen hence the yellow leaves. I use earthjuice nutrients myself, all organic. You can use grow or bloom nutes, I prefer grow. Both have similar properties, contain all essentials
 

hereigrow

Member
Cuttings do not need nutes while they r rooting. They have no way to absorb it that's why they yellow before they root the cutting uses nutes out of the leaves until thw roots are formed enough to absorb nutes.plain water is all thats needed...some people say start freshly rooted clones on lower ppm and raise the ppm as they get larger, same with seedlings. I give full strength from the start never had an issue. I like sensi grow a+b for veg.people hate on advanced nutes but I like it for a base nute, 8ml a 8ml b to one gallon of water they love it.
 
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