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vonforne
I bet they have been reading Kyle Kushie and Georgie and figured if those 2 could sell their shit why can´t we sell our load of shit also. lol
Run, Forest, Run!!!!!
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I bet they have been reading Kyle Kushie and Georgie and figured if those 2 could sell their shit why can´t we sell our load of shit also. lol
Run, Forest, Run!!!!!
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unthing
hi, back with another questinonable question.
i'm in beginning of a new cycle and in the last cycle i ended up with many males that got chopped up after donating pollen. i'm planning to use them as top dress of sorts and i'm wondering is there worry about burning small plants or should i be more concerned about gnats and such? it's pretty finely ground.
i'm in beginning of a new cycle and in the last cycle i ended up with many males that got chopped up after donating pollen. i'm planning to use them as top dress of sorts and i'm wondering is there worry about burning small plants or should i be more concerned about gnats and such? it's pretty finely ground.
invocation
Member
I would think you'd be fine. I've solved my gnat issues with neem cake and ewc topdressings. Prob try a little crab shell too. Also BTI works on your mulch.
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unthing
thanks. but what is bti?
Dingofriar
Member
Bacillus thuringiensis serovar israelensis (Bti) is a group of bacteria used as biological control agents for larvae stages of certain Dipterans. Bti produces toxins which are effective in killing various species of mosquitoes, fungus gnats, and blackflies, while having almost no effect on other organisms. Indeed this is one of the major advantages of B. thuringiensis products in general is that they are thought to affect few non-target species.
***I believe this is what invo meant ***
***I believe this is what invo meant ***
Here is the tote I have been dumping all my soil in, all soil, root balls everything just dumped into the tote added a couple thousand worms to work it over and sprayed it with water/molasses added a cup of mixed amendments as it wasnt used for very long, about 5 weeks it was from the 2 runts and 2 males from my SSHx BB plants.so Just 1 cup am going to let the worms work it over till I need it, and add some coco to get the mix where I want it and it will be used again in 2 or 3 weeks.. some has been there 2 weeks and some a few days
invocation
Member
Thanks for looking out, yes Bacillus thuringiensis serovar israelensis (Bti) is what I meant. All these abbreviations these days.
Good luck on the next round with your recycle W89! I think your cheese will be cheesier than those socks in the pic.
Good luck on the next round with your recycle W89! I think your cheese will be cheesier than those socks in the pic.
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unthing
i still sometimes struggle with the most basic ones, like "why the hell i need electronic toilet for soil?" but i'm getting better.
Coot's 1984 'Blue Orca' x 1989 NL#5/Neville's Haze
True ROLS working with true pre-1990 genetics....these all behave similar to the NL#5 x Haze more than Blue Orca,yet it is quite evident that the Blue Orca added quite an upgrade on the frost~...all phenotypes have a lemon scent meshed with that old school import scent of the late 70's.....you can smell the NL#5/haze in it for sure.
True ROLS working with true pre-1990 genetics....these all behave similar to the NL#5 x Haze more than Blue Orca,yet it is quite evident that the Blue Orca added quite an upgrade on the frost~...all phenotypes have a lemon scent meshed with that old school import scent of the late 70's.....you can smell the NL#5/haze in it for sure.
D
dogfishheadie
afternoon fellas,
Wanted to see if I could get some help with my dried aloe conversions. my 200x just arrived yesterday and want to get the recipe below started, just can't seem to get my conversions straight to make the right amount. cc mentioned .006 grams per liter of water, will I even be able to make a cup or teaspoon of this stuff?
first time user here and would appreciate any input!
here's the brew: (per 5 gallons of water) also, is there any easy way to scale this if I only wanted to make 2-3 gallons at a time? not sure if I'll use up all 5 gallons, hate to see this expensive stuff go to waste.
(1) cup aloe vera
(1) tsp. kelp meal
(2) tsp. alfala meal
bubble 48 hours then add
(2) tsp. BioAg Fulvic Avid
(2) tsp. aloe vera
(2) tsp. AgSil 16
Wanted to see if I could get some help with my dried aloe conversions. my 200x just arrived yesterday and want to get the recipe below started, just can't seem to get my conversions straight to make the right amount. cc mentioned .006 grams per liter of water, will I even be able to make a cup or teaspoon of this stuff?
first time user here and would appreciate any input!
here's the brew: (per 5 gallons of water) also, is there any easy way to scale this if I only wanted to make 2-3 gallons at a time? not sure if I'll use up all 5 gallons, hate to see this expensive stuff go to waste.
(1) cup aloe vera
(1) tsp. kelp meal
(2) tsp. alfala meal
bubble 48 hours then add
(2) tsp. BioAg Fulvic Avid
(2) tsp. aloe vera
(2) tsp. AgSil 16
TwistedPistils
Member
W89 do you put any kind of topdress or mulch on that bin while the worms work on it? Sometimes they like to come to the surface to chew on leaves or cardboard, and then go back down. gets a little extra mixing going on. 
Cann
Member
dogfishheadie -
from what I remember from my conversation with cootz...I believe the proper mixing rate for the 200x is .25g/gallon of h2o ~ roughly that is. That will get you the rough equivalent of 2tbs-1/4cup per gallon..the same dilution we want to use.
If you mix 1 gram of powder with 199 grams of h2o (199ml ~ 1/5 of a liter) you will get aloe concentrate - the same stuff that some folks buy at the store (lily of the desert brand, etc.) the problem is that this concentrate doesn't store well at all - so it is much easier to just mix the powder into your water at the 2tbs/gal dilution.
I have a bunch of little 1 gram packets that I weighed out, and I just combine one packet per 4 gallons of h20...works perfectly for me, but then again I go through a lot of water compared to some folks.
w89 I agree with twisted pistils - you should throw some cardboard down on the top of that box, or something to keep the light out. worms hate light, but they also love feeding on the surface (eisenia foetida is a surface feeder after all..). I find that when I cover my bins, the worms all come to the surface and hang out, but if I leave my bin uncovered I have to go digging for them. also a clear box isn't very conducive for worms...maybe put a sheet around the bottom or something? or just keep it in a dark space...that way you can see if they come to the surface and then turn the lights on and watch them squirm back into the depths....just a thought.
from what I remember from my conversation with cootz...I believe the proper mixing rate for the 200x is .25g/gallon of h2o ~ roughly that is. That will get you the rough equivalent of 2tbs-1/4cup per gallon..the same dilution we want to use.
If you mix 1 gram of powder with 199 grams of h2o (199ml ~ 1/5 of a liter) you will get aloe concentrate - the same stuff that some folks buy at the store (lily of the desert brand, etc.) the problem is that this concentrate doesn't store well at all - so it is much easier to just mix the powder into your water at the 2tbs/gal dilution.
I have a bunch of little 1 gram packets that I weighed out, and I just combine one packet per 4 gallons of h20...works perfectly for me, but then again I go through a lot of water compared to some folks.
w89 I agree with twisted pistils - you should throw some cardboard down on the top of that box, or something to keep the light out. worms hate light, but they also love feeding on the surface (eisenia foetida is a surface feeder after all..). I find that when I cover my bins, the worms all come to the surface and hang out, but if I leave my bin uncovered I have to go digging for them. also a clear box isn't very conducive for worms...maybe put a sheet around the bottom or something? or just keep it in a dark space...that way you can see if they come to the surface and then turn the lights on and watch them squirm back into the depths....just a thought.
W89 do you put any kind of topdress or mulch on that bin while the worms work on it? Sometimes they like to come to the surface to chew on leaves or cardboard, and then go back down. gets a little extra mixing going on.
Nah mate they come to the top anyway they got roots in there, they are the only thing I want broken down tbh an then I will use it again.. It's full of cocoons already too so while the plants are growing in it again they should hatch out and continue their work through the cycle...I will have to add some coco tho as I think it will be too heavy on the castings as it would have been over a month wiith about 2000 massive euros in there and they really work hard in turning it into great castings
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BlueJayWay
The 200x Aloe - It comes out to roughly 1tsp = 1gram. I do 1tsp per 4gal water, or 1/4tsp per gal or 1/8tsp per half gallon etc etc....
here's another one with that NL/H in it, she's gonna be a beast! No till 18gal container, eazy peazy
Velvet Rush x NL/H
here's another one with that NL/H in it, she's gonna be a beast! No till 18gal container, eazy peazy
Velvet Rush x NL/H
I just got some 12 liter fabric pots and I can fit 6 in each level of my cab, they fit perfectly. I'm glad to find some bigger pots so will be flowering out in 12 liter pots instead of 6 next time round I'm hoping they will be better even if it's marginally
They hold 12 liters and then that leaves me about an inch to top dress wit
They hold 12 liters and then that leaves me about an inch to top dress wit
Alright!!! I don't see any MaxiBloom powder in there, stoked to see you over here.
I use 1 Teaspoon of Aloe Powder to 4 gallons of water or so.... and that's easy to calculate down as others have suggested.
Did you brew everything up yet?
Only thing I've yet to play with as my soil ages is those nutrient teas.... with kelp or alfalfa. But I'm going to grow some Stinging nettle this year and probably comfrey so I'm sure I'll be starting soon.
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dogfishheadie
you are all true gentlemen, really appreciate the info. this stuff is pretty overwhelming, especially for my first legit attempt to grow. last time was a few plants back from yesteryear in highschool. was a paycheck away from ordering $350 for ff soil + nutes from amazon until i stumbled across this site and found my way into the organic section.
it's been a deep, deep rabbit hole since then with all this information, formulas, measurements, big science words that i have to type into dictionary.com so i can understand how to pronounce it. for sure going to have a lot more questions coming up, so please bear with me.
not just yet, waiting for the seeds to come in. figured it start it a day or two before i transplant, after they pop, show roots and what not. maybe for a soil drench after they go in.
anywho, my agisil16 came and freeze dried aloe came in yesterday, Ful-Power is at the post office. germination will start within the next week or so when the seeds get here, anyone have a starting mix formula you use to soak your seeds? iirc, Gas mentioned he would put his seeds in a ziplock bag pinned to a board in some sort of starting mixture. maybe it was baby coconut water?
it's been a deep, deep rabbit hole since then with all this information, formulas, measurements, big science words that i have to type into dictionary.com so i can understand how to pronounce it. for sure going to have a lot more questions coming up, so please bear with me.
not just yet, waiting for the seeds to come in. figured it start it a day or two before i transplant, after they pop, show roots and what not. maybe for a soil drench after they go in.
anywho, my agisil16 came and freeze dried aloe came in yesterday, Ful-Power is at the post office. germination will start within the next week or so when the seeds get here, anyone have a starting mix formula you use to soak your seeds? iirc, Gas mentioned he would put his seeds in a ziplock bag pinned to a board in some sort of starting mixture. maybe it was baby coconut water?
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